PDA

View Full Version : Y no, I can't bear it.



mobident
09-08-2012, 11:32 PM
I noticed the Y truck was getting a little bit stiff to move. released tension on the plate and Y moves fine. Good catch I'm thinking => caught a y axis bearing failure early before it could get bad.

Unfortunately not!!! the gear side bearing was completely disintegrated. The retainer spring for the inside of the bearing was loose in there on the shaft. One seal was missing, the other also loose on the shaft. Collecting all the debris, I was able to find 4 of the actual bearing beads, all worn in half. all the others ground up completely. The inner cylinder of the bearing was stuck on the shaft (got that off). The outer is stuck in the gear box housing.
Now my problems -
1) the little clip that holds the shaft in place dropped and haven't been able to find. Any source for these other than LHR?
2) can't get the outer cylinder of the bearing out of the gear box housing,so am looking for suggestions.
I have tried soaking it in penetrating oil over night, heating up the housing w a torch, and tried to drill a purchase point to pry with - couldn't get an angle to engage the bit tip into the cylinder.

Any suggestions on the stuck cylinder or advice on the clip would help.
thanks, Bruce


.5583055831

stanv77
09-09-2012, 12:21 AM
I have had the same problem a couple of times. If you fine a punch a little smaller than OD of the bearing you should be be able to punch it with a hammer. Be careful not to brake the housing that it is stuck in. The snap ring you should be able to get at a auto parts store. The bearings you might be able to get at a local bearing house. If not check with Tom Watson on where he gets the bearings. He gets them I think 10 to a package.

Good Luck

ktjwilliams
09-09-2012, 07:44 AM
OK !! What I did ... Those bearings are a common size in the world of RC cars ... The only difference is that the RC bearings R 1mm thinner, I believe they were 4mm,, the originals R 5mm ... I used a washer to take up the slack ... The 4mm r ball bearings, where the originals must B be pin bearings cause 5mm balls would be to big to fit the race... This set up has worked flawlessly.. The truck runs nice and smooth, no hiccups going across on the rails...

ktjwilliams
09-09-2012, 07:55 AM
Oh to get that piece off,, try a dremel with a grinding stone... When ur grinding it will most likely spin itself free before U get all the way through... but if u have to go all the way through, then so be it ... Just grind in one spot, don't go around the race... Before U get all the way through, U can switch over to a thin carbide ball bit...

Digitalwoodshop
09-09-2012, 03:24 PM
Just in case... Remember that a Shoulder is on the inside middle of the hole that the bearings sit in... SO each outside bearing race must exit from each face.... You might me trying to push them through the shoulder.... ?????

Good Luck... 5 mm x 11 mm x 5 mm and the clip is a standard 1/4 inch C Clip from any hardware store... It may be Metric but a 1/4 inch will work.. if not bend it tighter...

While the Gear Box is out mark the roller bearings with a marker and move the Y looking for a frozen rail bearing sliding on the rail.

Good Luck,

AL

mobident
09-14-2012, 08:06 PM
Thanks AL, Stanv, KTJ,
Just got home (work out of town) had drilled out the bearing, got the e clip, got the y motor back together. All moving smooth, so got the project I was in the middle of up and running.

And then unpacked my new c machine!!!

cestout
09-16-2012, 06:56 PM
Too late now for this time, but there was a post a while back for a source for 10 bearing s for $5 and I got a replacement snap ring at my local home town auto parts store (Ken's Nuevo Auto Parts).
Clint