Carve restart

[Frank]

I have resently started a carve when 1 hour into it I got a z axis failure error. In taking the machine apart I found the damper for the x axis board sensor had come out and that the o-ring was in bad shape. I was hoping that there is a way to restart the carve I was doing at the point that it quit at the time of the error, instead of starting all over again. Has anyone done this?

Thanks Frank

[fwharris]

Frank,

You have a couple of options on finishing your carve. First option is to modify your mpc with a "0" depth carve region over the area that has all ready been carved. Re save the mpc, up load to the card. When you restart the carve you might have to run some tape strips across the carved areas to fool the board sensor so it will measure correctly. The start of the carve might act strange but it will in time start carving at the end of your "0" carve region.

Other option is just restart the carve but right before it starts carving, pause and remove the bit.. Let it air carve until it gets close to the un carved area, pause and install the bit.

First option will save time.

[Digitalwoodshop]

EDIT: FW, "RingNeckBlues" a ACTIVE and Contributing Member of the Forum types FASTER than ME.... 2 Minutes Faster.... LOL... Also the maker of a GREAT Metal Dust Collector.

Also brings up a question? I have never done the Zero Carve Option.... Always thought it took just as long? Looks like I learned something.... Thanks FW for the tip and a Great All Metal Collector.

Back to a regular Scheduled Post...


Over a Dozen looks at this.... Sorry but a restart is the simplest thing to do... Some go back into Designer and Draw a Rectangle on the RIGHT side of Designer and make it a Carve Region with a ZERO Depth over the already carved area... The machine justs keeps the head up but takes the SAME TIME.... The BUMMER is if the Rectangle is not in the Correct Position OR the board not indexed properly and the new cut is in the WRONG PLACE.... And it took you an HOUR to find out....

That is why I always let is CUT OVER the same area.... This way if it FAILS to be in the correct area you know an HOUR Sooner....

Good Luck..

AL

[DickB]

If you set the dept to 0, you will get a harmless message warning of this when you upload the project. I always set mine to .001. I get no warning, and the area still gets skipped just as if it were 0. Rounding off I suppose.

[fwharris]

Al,

I think you were doing another post maybe ;)! And again thanks for the great support!

So far on the ones that I have had to restart the re indexing has almost been dead nuts on from the first one. Hardly noticeable and very easy to sand out any difference. The actual time is way shorter, the machine does do some strange things before it starts carving though.

Dick, Have not had to do any for a long time (knocking on wood) so the upload message must be something they have added to the firm ware but thanks for the tip.


EDIT? JINKED MYSELF ON THIS ONE... 20% IN Y STALL ERROR. Doing some litho carves in acrylic for a local carver whos machine is down (his jigs and materials with his projects on his card). This is the second of five to do. First one got a "clean Y rails" about 30-40% in. His firn ware is an older version 1.80 I think, re flashed the card with current version and will try a restart. When he contacted me about doing this he stated he was having issues with stall errors and was in contact with LHR about sending it in.

[fwharris]

Well the carve restart made it to around 65% and stalled out again. Ran the Y test several times with out any stalls. One thought that did occur to me was maybe a dull bit. I think I have read/seen this posted before as a cause for Y stall problems. Reading through the trouble shooting docs it does state that the stall is do to A Y-axis stall is caused when the difference between the commanded distance becomes much more than the actual distance over the allotted time interval.

[liquidguitars]

The machine justs keeps the head up but takes the SAME TIME....


Al, This was changed a few ago... it now moves directly to the end spot of the 0 and starts the carving so it way faster!!

[Digitalwoodshop]

FW, bottom of the board have any defects at the brass roller edge at the fault?

LG, Very Cool... That will save time.... Thanks !!!

AL

[badbert]

I have Had this happen a few times. And even with a sled. There is always a very small line. sometimes it can't be sanded in fine details. Instead, I drop the heights and lower everything and recarve. It usually comes out better than the first!

[fwharris]

FW, bottom of the board have any defects at the brass roller edge at the fault?

LG, Very Cool... That will save time.... Thanks !!!

AL

No the board has no defects, nice clean edge + got that tape on it. So, shhhh, after putting in a new bit all is going great. One 1.5hr carve done and into the second.

I ran the Y data test about a dozen time with no issues and very repeatable reading that were in the range given in the doc for the new z y z tests. The only other thing I've done is reformatted the card and re loaded the mpcs. I'll bet the issue was a dull bit and nothing to do with the machine.

[fwharris]

I have Had this happen a few times. And even with a sled. There is always a very small line. sometimes it can't be sanded in fine details. Instead, I drop the heights and lower everything and recarve. It usually comes out better than the first!

Bert,
I've done the same thing and agree the details did seem to be even better..

[CarverJerry]

Too bad we can't see the program on our read out and see what line of the program we stopped on, that way we could just pick up exactly where we stopped. Yeah I know, I've been using machine shop CNC's too long and used to the editing features of the G&M codes too.

[bluecobra]

Too bad we can't see the program on our read out and see what line of the program we stopped on, that way we could just pick up exactly where we stopped. Yeah I know, I've been using machine shop CNC's too long and used to the editing features of the G&M codes too.

I hear that! Dunno how many times I wanted to scream "Just G0 there already!" :)

[Frank]

Just got time to sit down and look at the responses to my problem. I just got my machine back together and hope to restart the carve. I agree it would be a lot easier if we could just go to the line where it stopped and pick it up from there. But, since we can't do that I think I like the idea of taking the bit out and run it until it's close to where it quit and put the bit back in. Thank You all for your help.

Frank

[liquidguitars]

I think I like the idea of taking the bit out and run it until it's close to where it quit and put the bit back in.

I just measure the in point of the carve and place a box set to zero depth over the carved space, the carvwright will go to the end of the box/mask made in designer and then start the carving at the end of the box you made wasting no time at all. Simple.

[lynnfrwd]

We also recommend LG's way. Hope he saw the post in time.


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