...so I cut out some veneer 1/8 inch cherry ????

[bigcitybrom]

I cut out some veneer shapes resawing some cherry and then scoring them with the CW. My question is not CW related but rather: Does anyone see any problem in gluing 1/8 cherry veneers to 3/4 MDF? I know that you're supposed to use a backer veneer when using "sheet" veneers, but I am not sure about when using wood veneer that is this thick.

I imagine this wood is going to want to expand and contract and I'm not sure this is even possible to do what I am attempting. Any one have any experience with this?

Using a backer is not even possible because at least half of this MDF has another 3/4 MDF board glued and screwed to it, so even if I were to back the other half it is ONLY half of the top's total surface that would be backed. I have heard of people only veneering one side of MDF with mixed results of warping. Some people say they never use a backer and never warp, others say they've tried and the veneer caused the MDF to warp.

I'm wondering now if my glue will hold or cause this to be a waste of time with shrinkage and expansion breaking these veneered strips to break loose.

Any help is appreciated. I have included a pic of the centers, and the perimeter will be strips glued on the where you see the pencil markings.

Thanks, Rob55471

[keninar]

Rob, I've done a fair amount of work with veneers - much like you are doing here - with good success. May I ask, what type of glue are you using?

Thanks
Ken

[bigcitybrom]

Hey Ken,

I'm just using Tite Bond II. I didn't go with contact cement or Tite Bond Veneer glue because I don't really classify these the same as the sheet or rolled veneers, you know? I have heard people had good success with the yellow glues. I will then finish off with a solid wood edge banding as well and then sealing with Seal Coat and TransTint for color then top coating with 6-8 coats of lacquer. I just would hate for this wood to start pulling/pushing as it expands and contracts and warp the substrate (MDF) or the other problem; just plain popping off of the MDF.

[RogerB]

I have worked with this in the past and just used plain wood glue.You can also by MDF with it already on it.

[keninar]

Rob, I think you will be fine given the scenario you have described. Of course - the obligatory disclaimer applies here - I'm sure someone will chime in that it simply will not work, and it probably didn't for them.

But for me, I recently did a chess table in very much the same way you are describing, using birdseye maple and walnut burl for the squares. The trick, I found, was to make absolutely sure that I had good compression on the squares (the strips in your project). Fortunately, they are small enough that what ever dimensional instability you experience, due to heat, humidity, etc, will be quite small. While you may not be able to veneer the underside of the mdf - I would strongly suggest you at least seal it, prior to bonding it to the second sheet of mdf. (Would seal all of them, but especially the underside of the veneered piece. It is amazing how moisture can work it's way into the smallest crevices.

Good luck with the project and please let the group know how it works out - especially with pics along the way!

Ken

[bigcitybrom]

Thanks, Ken!

I did only show a pic of the center piece which is only 6.125 square, but it will be surrounded by strips of cherry as well. I hope this wood doesn't warp the top or pull off, I forgot to mention, I already sprayed the bottom of this with several coats of latex as it is going to be the top of a bookshelf/cabinet. Hopefully that will suffice, of course that was after I had laminated the 13" deep piece on the underside.

I appreciate your comment! I makes me feel better anyway. I definitely will post up some pics of these bookshelves when they're done because a lot of it was done using the CW.

Thanks, Rob