Carves deeper & deeper.

[edbisme]

Well, just bought a used machine. Wasn't working but fixed it after new belts, etc. So I started a project and let it go to work. After a while, I looked and was shocked. The bit carved perfect for about 30 min then started carving deeper and deeper. Still carving the pattern, just deeper. The bit went down farther than im sure it's supposed to, all the way through the board. I looked at the bit and it is burnt at the top. Guess the previous owner had the same problem. I got no clue, anyone know how I can fix this?
Eddie

[unitedcases]

I would start by blowing out the back of the encoder.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk 2.

[edbisme]

Where is the encoder?

[edbisme]

Looks like cmj2 had the same problem. His posts are labled Depth Problem. Not sure, looks like he gave up and wants to sell his machine. Not sure if he finally fixed it or if he sold his machine like he said in his last post.

[AskBud]

Well, just bought a used machine. Wasn't working but fixed it after new belts, etc. So I started a project and let it go to work. After a while, I looked and was shocked. The bit carved perfect for about 30 min then started carving deeper and deeper. Still carving the pattern, just deeper. The bit went down farther than im sure it's supposed to, all the way through the board. I looked at the bit and it is burnt at the top. Guess the previous owner had the same problem. I got no clue, anyone know how I can fix this?
EddieWhat chuck do you have?
What wood are you carving?
If you call LHR, they may be able to tell you what problems the previous owner had (if he called LHR).
A discolored bit could indicate that the bit is dull, or loose in the chuck (or adapter). It's probably a good idea to get another carving bit as well.
AskBud
The encoder is on the back of the truck, but I suggest that you talk with LHR before you

[edbisme]

The burnt part i'm referring to is above the cutting part of the bit. The cutting part of the bit looks normal. The bit goes so far down, on a 1/2 inch piece, the bit gradyally drops down 1 1/4" , measuring from the tip of the bit past the top of the board, passing the cutting portion of the bit. In doing this the bit, the part that has no teeth, rubs on the wood causing it to burn or change color. I'll call LHR tomorrow about it. In the past unless I was a paid member, it was very hard to get a straight answer regarding a diagnosis. Was hoping someone else might have come across this problem before. Judging from what i've read in someone else's forum, doesn't look good. Will look at the manual again. What controls the up and down signal? Is it a sensor or componet?
Thanks,
Eddie

[Digitalwoodshop]

This is a or WAS a very common problem in the past but not much anymore...

First question is how old is the machine? Is it a "A" Series as in the Serial Number? The reason I ask is that the older "A" series units first came with a 18 pin FSC Cable or the big flat cable that brings the power to the Z Motor and returns the Encoder Pulses so the computer knows the position of the Z head. Also the Board Detector Power and return data. IF you have a old 18 pin then the best thing to do is call LHR and order the KIT. It has the new 14 pin Thicker Wire Version AND the 2 circuit boards for each end. Please DON'T plug a new 14 pin cable into the OLD 18 pin Circuit Boards... The Wider Pins will Short Out the Computer in the Narrower old 18 pin...

IF you DO have a newer 14 pin version then THIS is a the MOST likely cause... A BAD FSC Cable..... The FSC Cable is a Consumable in MY opinion.... Everyone should have a few spares.... The Flat Copper Wire is coated on all sized by plastic but as the copper flexes over and over it will eventually snap... Especially easy to damage if you have any SHARP BENDS...


Another possibility is a Dirty Z Encoder as in Dust inside it... OR the Clear Plastic disk with the little lines that make the pulses can be loose on the end of the shaft.... A drop of glue will fix it... The lines make pulses by blocking the LED Light and Sensor.


Thoubleshooting.... Power OFF.... Move Z Head to the TOP Mechanical Stop and hold. Card in the machine turn power on. Using Keypad Option, Sensor Data and Z Data. The LCD will show 0000 as in the start up position of the Z Data... Remember this is Pulses not position. Where ever the Z head is when you turn on the Z Data will be the 0000 position.... As you move the Z Head it will count from 0000. Placing the head at the TOP mechanical Stop just gives you a easy to remember number.... 0000.... SO the test is to now move the head up and down many times and then back to the top mechanical stop. IF the reading at the top is 0000 then the Encoder is good... The 2nd test is to move the head up and down AND slightly move the FSC Cable... IF is in Intermittent than you will LOOSE Pulses and the number will not be 0000.


A Frozen Z Bearing will do this TOO... AND a frozen Bearing is REALLY Hard to detect.... I mark the Bearing with a black marker and look.


The BELT on the back of the Z Truck is held by 2 screws and they have been know to BE LOOSE. A Test is to hold the belt at the bottom and try to slide the head along the belt.

One last cause... IF your unit has a old QC and IF you see BB Marks in the Bit Holders then the Bit Spinning at High RPM makes vibrations that destroy the machine. You need to replace the QC and ALL Bit Holders in this case... Changing a QC and using a bad Bit Holder will destroy the QC in as little as one project... MUST change all at the same time... At least in MY opinion.... I had in the past used a BAD QC for much longer than I should have... THAT is what caused many problems.... One is the Solder Joints on the back side of the ENCODER where the plug connects. See Pictures...


That pretty much covers it.... Here are some pictures to help.


AL

[AskBud]

The burnt part i'm referring to is above the cutting part of the bit. The cutting part of the bit looks normal. The bit goes so far down, on a 1/2 inch piece, the bit gradyally drops down 1 1/4" , measuring from the tip of the bit past the top of the board, passing the cutting portion of the bit. In doing this the bit, the part that has no teeth, rubs on the wood causing it to burn or change color. I'll call LHR tomorrow about it. In the past unless I was a paid member, it was very hard to get a straight answer regarding a diagnosis. Was hoping someone else might have come across this problem before. Judging from what i've read in someone else's forum, doesn't look good. Will look at the manual again. What controls the up and down signal? Is it a sensor or componet?
Thanks,
EddieOnce you have registered the unit in your name, you have a good start.
If you have no warranty, you'll need to pay a $25.00 incident fee (this covers the calls), but that covers the problem until it is resolved. The resolution may take several calls, so be sure to write down the number. As you describe the problem, they should be able to guide you through the testing and solution so it's best to be at the machine. They will probably ask what chuck you have and verify how that bit fits into the chuck (it's not always the same).
AskBud
AskBud

[edbisme]

Oh. Didn't know about the $25.00 incident fee. Thanks Bud, on the phone tomorrow!!

[Digitalwoodshop]

And one last thing..... Attitude is a big part of being happy as a user..... YES, the machine can be a Challenge at times.... WE are here to HELP... You are making GOOD Progress.... Read over my post above and if you get stumped you can call ME for FREE.... I can even call you back with my Magic Jack for free... My number in on the bottom of my Web Pages using the link below.

My last machine was bought for less than $500.00 from a frustrated user... He gave up.... Someone had installed the new 14 pin FSC cable TOO SHORT on the top and when the Head went to the Bit Plate it was pulled tight.... Eventually the wires in the FSC Cable Snaped... He said the FSC Cable was NEW and refused to change it again..... Just gave up... I got it and saw the problem and replaced the cable and was good to go... I had never thought to ask if the cable was tight at the bit plate....

AL

[edbisme]

So if when I move the Z head up and down, when I go back to top, it reads 001 or 002. Is it bad or is that within tolerances?

[edbisme]

Thanks for the words of encouragement Al. But fear not, I am and all ways will be a carvewright lover. I know that it's nothing personal with the machine. The more I use it, the more I love it. This is my second machine. I just have a hard time when I don't know what piece to change, or what to do when a problem happens. My first Carvewright now has 650 hours on it. Bought this one used so I have to work out the previous owners issues. It only has 34 hours on this one so whatever the promlem is, can't be that big of a deal. My fear, I will pay way more trying to find the problem, than to fix it. Im thankful there are guys like you on this forum to help us guys that don't know to much. And thanks for your offer to call you. Might do just that. Doing another test cut right now and so far, so good.

[edbisme]

So, now, it gradually cuts deeper and deeper. Will check the encoder before I do anything else.