Best wood to use

[jspringertx]

I am a newbie (just received my machine yesterday) and are anxious to get started. Can anyone suggest what type of wood I should buy for best results (pine, poplar, red oak, white oak, etc)? I would probably buy the 10 or 12 inch width and cut to size.

I called CarveWright yesterday for the first time, received my activation code immediately and did one sign on some scrap wood I have.

By the way, I saw that Sears was including this item on the Craftsman Club later this month. Since I paid $1,899 plus shipping I called them and asked them "what gives?" They told me to contact them next week and they would credit my account for the difference. It restored my faith in Sears customer service. :D

[Malfunction]

MDF works decent for a carving.

[HandTurnedMaple]

The FAQ does state that materials containing glue (MDF, plywood, particle board, et al) will dull bits at a higher rate (probably because of heat issues and the elastic resistance of the glue versus the shearing of the wood it was designed for).

When mine comes in today (fingers crossed and anger mode on standby), I will be using trying the 4 pieces of basswood I have on hand after a couple of test runs with clear pine. I asked around at the WoodCraft store in Boise, and they recommended basswood for handcarving so I figured it was worth a try. I will publish the results.

[jspringertx]

Basswood sounds like an excellent choice. I found the FAQ and it does mention that glued wood will cause the bits to lose their sharpness.

I noticed that CarveWright prefers a tight grain.

[HandTurnedMaple]

I am told handcarvers prefer a softer tight-grain wood (you never know where your cut will stop on open-grained wood). But I am wondering if the CW will like the wood harder or softer. I have a couple of hard maple scraps from the lathe I will be trying too with the same pattern as the basswood (for a real comparison).

[HandTurnedMaple]

Basswood was not a great choice. It came out very fuzzy. I thought about just sanding the background and leaving the elk fuzzy like I did it on purpose.

Haven't cut the maple yet.

[newcarver]

I've tried cherry, red oak, and pine. Cherry and red oak were the best. Cherry came out awesome, with very little fuzz and almost no sanding required. the red oak came out slightly fuzzy, but not bad at all. Pine is a bad choice for detail,but for signs with just letters that can be sanded easily it works.
Here are some examples.
I also made a dust collector that mounts under my workbench and uses my 12 gallon shopvac, works quite well, not any noisier than the machine.
The cherry sign never needed vacuming during the carvetime of 2hrs.
Happy Carving

[jspringertx]

The photos of the item using cherry are awesome. The red oak is very good and comparable to the poplar I tried yesterday. Of course I used the wrong setting for the cutting tool so it wasn't the best test.

I will have to try the cherry wood. Thanks!

[menewfy]

this is going to sound like a silly question but I will take the chance and ask it anyway.

has anyone tried hardwood floor and I dont mean the old stuff but the new that you can get a home deopot the tongue and groove stuff? i just wonder what it would turn out like.

tim

[HandTurnedMaple]

this is going to sound like a silly question but I will take the chance and ask it anyway.

has anyone tried hardwood floor and I dont mean the old stuff but the new that you can get a home deopot the tongue and groove stuff? i just wonder what it would turn out like.

tim

There are 2 basic types of hardwood floors there. There is the laminate (cheap stuff) which is basically like plywood. And there is the real hardwood flooring, which is either Red Oak, Maple, Beech, White Ash, or Yellow Birch (there may also some exotics, but probably not in stock at a Home Improvement store).

Personally I would suggest just getting the actual hardwood lumber, unless you don't live near a hardwood store or lack the tools to clean up S2S.

[FINGERS]

I use basswood it carves nice soft wood bits will last for ever, a lot of saw dust you need a good shop vac i had a 2 gal. vac. after two carving it was full so went to wally-world and got the big boy 16 gal. 5.5 hp it really suck's.
have fun

[rjp736]

I've tried many different woods and find Cherry to carve the best.

[HandTurnedMaple]

I definately agree with Cherry. I will also use Hard Maple to add a lighter color to my gallery.

[Old Salt]

your best woods are closed grain type . red oak is a open grain while white oak is closed. Cut a very thin piece off the end of a block of red oak hold it up to a light . try it with white oak and you will see the difference. take a piece of red oak 1/4 x1/4 x6 put the end in a glass of water ,you can blow through it like a stray. the open grain woods have voild that will tear when cut and give you a ruff finish.. I have had good luck with cherry,purplehart, maple hickory. and even some walnut . fine grain and clossed grain is what to look for . many things will make a wood carve better , less than 10% moisture 1/4 sawn ect. carve the same pattern in each type you like save for future to see the change in types . have fun

[jdrof]

Has anyone tried to carve ebony? I have some 3/4" stock and would like to carve some rosettes for a mirror frame I am making, but I am afraid it will eat my bit.

Also, I was going to try and carve a clock face that I downloaded but the numbers were done in centerline text and my software does not support that. Will it carve?

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

[pkunk]

Has anyone tried to carve ebony? I have some 3/4" stock and would like to carve some rosettes for a mirror frame I am making, but I am afraid it will eat my bit.

Also, I was going to try and carve a clock face that I downloaded but the numbers were done in centerline text and my software does not support that. Will it carve?

Thanks in advance for your assistance.
I've never tried ebony but it would carve nicely. Don't worry about the bit. They are endmills designed for cutting metal. My clock face will carve on your machine with total disregard to the fact you don't have centerline. You can add extra carving in the center area if you wish.

[jdrof]

pkunk---

Thank you very much. I"ll give them both a try.

You now have got me thinking (sometimes dangerous) when you said the bit was designed to cut steel. Is it possible to carve shallow images on sheet aluminum if it is placed on a solid surface or a sled?

[pkunk]

pkunk---

Thank you very much. I"ll give them both a try.

You now have got me thinking (sometimes dangerous) when you said the bit was designed to cut steel. Is it possible to carve shallow images on sheet aluminum if it is placed on a solid surface or a sled?
There's been a number of posts on this subject. Use 'search'. In a word-no.:)

[Gman_Ind]

I thought I read before that a dark wood can fool a sensor into malfunctioning? the first real project I want to do is some carved pulls in highly figured black (purple) walnut.
Of course I will do a complete test on scrap wood, I wonder if a walnut stain also might fool the sensor?

[pkunk]

I thought I read before that a dark wood can fool a sensor into malfunctioning? the first real project I want to do is some carved pulls in highly figured black (purple) walnut.
Of course I will do a complete test on scrap wood, I wonder if a walnut stain also might fool the sensor?
If the sensor doesn't read it correctly, try a piece of masking tape flush on each end. Walnut carves sooo nicely!:)

[HerbO]

Stopped in the local Home Center today and they had a truck load of Cabinet doors for $3.99. Picked out a half dozen oak raised panel.
One was 18" x 24" thought this was a good deal.

HerbO

[pkunk]

You couldn't buy the wood for that.:)

[HerbO]

When I get a little more time I will grab some more.
Almost to nice to cut up to carve.

Pkunk .... I clicked on your website last night and seen you do some beautiful work.

My Grandfather told me the difference between a woodworker and Craftsman is the time you take on a project. That is my problem I am always in hurry to finish to see what it will look like.

HerbO

[jdrof]

I have been using walnut without any problems. And yes, it does carve very clean.

[HandTurnedMaple]

Here I am using curly maple. The graining is beautiful and adds a lot of movement to the piece. The tearing is very minimal (the other end of the board is still being carved as I post this so no cleanup possible). Deer = left face, tail, right edge, front legs; Bass = lower jaw, top of head, and right edge.

(Shown patterns are VA3D, so no I can't post them.)

[hdultra]

I'm a newbie also and have been using poplar with some success. Of course, I'm carving letters, so there isn't too much sanding that has to be done. I have tried red oak, but find I get a lot of "chip out". Could my lettering be too small??

[Mike]

I am not a big fan of red oak. it is a bit fuzzy. Tried poplar, maple and pine and they came out very good. I broke a bit on a piece of cedar when it hit a very hard knot. had to wait 3 weeks to get a new bit. I am kind of shy on the cedar now.

[Cliff]

I thought I would give Aspen a shot, clean, white, and carves suprisingly well. I did not like this wood for general woodworking but I fine for the cost and carving quality it works for plaques. I picked up a 16" x 36" x "1 (0.75) at Menards wrapped and clean $14.00. I'm about 60% completed with a project as I type and so far no chipouts. I was using it for a draft but may end up as a final, I'll get some water based colored stains made up and see. But first I'll use Pkunk idea of sanding primer to help lift and remove fuzzies.

Cliff

[Cliff]

Scratch last Aspen did not handle 1/2" raised letter to well, it chipped. Well there is a 2 hour draft. Live and learn.

Cliff

[right_wright@msn.com]

We have been very happy with MDF (20 bucks for a 49"X97" 3/4" sheet) Its cheap and carves well. We use a nylon brush and a dremel with brass wire brushes to clean up the fuss. It is a cheap alternative to try the pattern before loading that $25 board.

I typically run projects in segments, one board for each line of text or pattern, and glue up after carving. That way if something goes wrong we do not loss the whole project. This also allows us to work in larger then 15" width projects, of course it helps to have a 25" planer.

We use air brushes with flourecence, pearlized or transparent paints to color the carved areas and then plane off the overspray then roll or sometimes spray paint the rest of the field.

The next experiment is to cut out the text or patten then fill with stained glass. The possibilties are endless!

[jspringertx]

If you are interested in trying various wood types you might check your local trophy supplier (JDS Industries is one). You can purchase solid walnut and cherry plaques in various sizes. 6 X 8, 8 X 10, 9 X 12 by the piece. They come routed and with keyhole hanging slots on the back.

They also have plaques with laminated wood, but the background will be composite. They probably won't carve as well.

You can buy the pieces individually or combine various types for case prices. This is an option to purchasing an 8 ft piece of cherry at 5.25 per ft.

[MJ carver]

I have carved the same 5" x6" dragon design in pine, ash and cherry. The design has very small detail encircled by an oval of open carving and the cherry definitely comes out the best. Ash is comparable in carve quality, but the strong grain lines distract from the design. Pine loses detail and comes out hairy, requiring too much cleanup. Bigger designs, such as 1" lettering, do not make all that much difference. Hope this helps!

[rgant05]

I'm glad to hear cherry comes out good. I went back to my wood pile where I have my cedar and found some cherry that I didn't realize I had. Really planed out nicely, so I'm looking forward to trying some. I have had good luck with cedar but it has been pretty clear, or with very small knots (1/4"-3/8") but have heard of one guy's experience that had broken a bit on the knots. Makes me want to make sure I will be carving in clear wood.

[insp_gadget]

I just finished my first real project(simple as it is). Face board on top of a shelving unit. In my opinion red oak looks considerably better than white pine, plywood or mdf which is all I have been playing with. In fact it looks great but a little fuzzy which was mentioned earlier.I'm not going to use mdf again as it is too powdery. One question I have (because of working with metal working machines my whole working life) is wouldn't it be better if you left everything .100 short and roughed out carving with say a 1/8" or 1/4" round end bit first and then go to depth with 1/16" carving bit.(just finishing). Going through pine was one thing but going through hard as a rock oak is another. I really don't want to snap this bit off. Speaking of bits, can we get bits and bit holders from Carvewright or from Sears yet. I need some more holders as I want all my bits in separate holders. I have bought the thread lock stuff because we don't need bits coming off at 20,000 RPM do we? Very happy with this machine so far. I might have to put new lube on flex shaft if I can find it. Gets pretty warm cutting oak. 5 AM comes awful early, bedtime.

[rgant05]

insp_gadget

I think most of the different hardnesses of wood are factored into the operation of the machine. I don't know if it has a way of sensing the motor load and adjusting the cutting pass speed or not, but would guess there might be something. The only real problems that I have hear of regarding wood was with cedar running into hard knots. I have a lot of cedar and have been trying to use mostly clear wood or softer knots.... not wanting to take a chance of breaking THE bit. I have ordered 3 more bits and hope to be braver in my choice of woods in the future.

Regarding "hogging out" as I call it..... I don't think you would accomplish much and in fact it might actually create some problems. One thought I have is the the machine is expecting a certain amount of resistance. If it doesn't get it it may actually cut at a different level and cause a distortion in the accuracy of the carving depth. I don't know that for sure but that is just some thoughts. Also realizing how it carves, it is only carves a small amount of wood with each pass, so I am guessing that it can handle most hardnesses. I wonder if the guy that had the cedar knot problems might have had a knot come loose (which I have seen on the planer and router) which is what caused his bit breakage.

I've heard that the bit holders are standard products for Sears and CW people told me earlier this week that most all of the carving bits that are coming in right now are going to Sears for their store stock. However, I was in my local Sears yesterday and they didn't have any bit holders nor did they know anything about the carving bits, but I suspect that it is just because my Sears is in a podunk town (Jackson TN) as most that I have ever had to do with them they didn't know their a-- from a hole in the ground. I'm better off taking my chance with their online ordering or maybe check sometime when I am in Memphis. So it appeared to me that getting a bit anytime soon was not likely.... I could either wait several weeks for Sears to get their act together with a new part number or I could order from CW and wait till they get Sears' need satisfied and get the next ones coming in..... not sure which would be the longest, but really would feel better to have a couple of spares.

Also a comment on the flex shaft lube. I found both brands of the acceptable lube on the shelf at Home Depot. Lowes may or may not have it, I haven't looked yet. I have also seen on other post that Rileys Auto parts stores have it also, so I suspect that its not that hard to find.... just got to look in the most likely places first (Ace Hardware is another suggested one that I didn't check yet either..... actually only look in the one place and it was there)

[RC Woodworks]

rg, I hand rout redwood and it has been ok in the CC. I use reclaimed old growth of course I am sure your local lumber store might not carry old growth! You might want to try second growth vertical grain

[kywodman]

I have used knotty cedar works fine for me, I have used hickory,red oak,walnut, pine, fur,and plywood for clocks it all seems to work great for me. The plywood clocks have a twist with the different colored layers to it kind of neat really customers like it.

[Kenm810]

kywodman,
Please post some photos of your work,
I'd like to see how the pylwood looks on the clocks

[insp_gadget]

RGANT05,

Thanks for the info. I totally agree with you speaking of Sears. I have always liked their products but sometimes their help either don't know or don't care. I feel like a traitor as my mother worked there for 40 years. My very large Sears still doesn't have any extras for machine. You are probably right with the machine being able to cut up to 1 inch deep with no problem. It does definitely sound different though cutting oak than pine. I will be checking Home Depot this weekend for lube.

[Router-Jim]

I think someone mentioned beech, but it's good enough to get repeated.

Another wood that works quite well is butternut. It is a little fuzzy but it sands very very well.

[Kenm810]

Well here’s another fine mess I got myself and my CC into, This morning I began carving a 3 hour practice run on a piece of pine, as it started I left the shop (Something I've learned is not very wise thing to do.) When I returned and immediately caught a whiff of a familiar sent, that any long time wood worker would probably recognize. It’s an aroma like unto the smell of urine, on a hot steam radiator or a 150 degree black top road. (The dreaded so called Pi** Pine) A piece of wood that some people say comes from a tree used as a pit stop by every critter imaginable that has ever lived in the woods. The stench is normally activated by some poor soul operating a cutting, sawing, or in this case carving device. Now I have no proof where this piece of wood came from, but I know where it’s going, and it has a lid on it. So please be forewarned, If you run across a piece of wood like this, don’t – I repeat don’t set it up for a 3 hour carve and leave the shop. Or you to may have an unpleasant surprise waiting when you return, - and will wanting to finish your days work in the hall, or driveway, anywhere out side the shop. My CC now has a very festive strawberry ornament hanging from its bit holder, -- that I swiped from the review mirror in my wife’s car.

[HandTurnedMaple]

While that is sound advice, I think I will have trouble tracking the urinary habits of all of the forest and mountain creatures in my area. Are there any physical indicators of whether my lumber is standard pine or "American Standard" pine?

[Kenm810]

Other then a slight ammonia or wet dipper smell,
there’s no way to identify it,- that I know of.
I’ve been told there’s no real sense looking for it,
it eventually will find you.

[rjustice]

Carved quite a bit over the weekend using scraps that i picked up at a local hardwood supplier. Loved the following for different reasons

Cherry - very clean, very consistant grain... very little prep before finishing
Ash - WOW.. came off looking like a mirror... but have to watch for splits
Hickory - inconsistant color, but much like Ash
Oak - looks great on bigger detail... grain is open, therefore chips on tiny stuff
Maple - Nice, very clear.. doesnt show much grain... but nice finsh
Poplar - a little furry... needs fair amount of work before finishing
Pine - very furry, tears easily, plus deep detail tends to chip due to softness

This is my list in order of preference of tests this weekend... Hope it is helpful

Ron

[rjp736]

Try Birch. You'll be happy with the results and it's an affordable wood. Finish it up with some Tung oil and it looks sweet.