PDA

View Full Version : Help



insiders05
05-09-2012, 02:07 PM
Please help anybody,
I just got the centerline, and I have been trying the 60-v bits. Sometimes it just touches the material, and the next time it goes all the way through without me even doing anything to the project. Also is there a easy way to see how deep it will cut?

Alvin

lawrence
05-09-2012, 02:22 PM
I draw a rectangle around the centerline and then do a carve region- start the carve region very deep and then keep shallowing it up until you see the centerline start to show. This is how deep it will go...

Lawrence

AskBud
05-09-2012, 03:11 PM
Please help anybody,
I just got the centerline, and I have been trying the 60-v bits. Sometimes it just touches the material, and the next time it goes all the way through without me even doing anything to the project. Also is there a easy way to see how deep it will cut?

AlvinSeveral things affect the depth of Centerline text.
Lawrence is correct, but I'll add some other thoughts as well.

First is the Font you select as well as the bit applied.
The wider & darker the font, in the selection screen, the deeper it will carve. The 60 degree bit selection will carve deeper than the 90 degree application on the same font. The larger the text, the deeper it carves.

On the design board, just place your mouse on the groove (which is the center line of that letter) at the widest part and look at the right-most number in the bottom left of your screen. This number shows the carve depth at that point. As you move the mouse, the number will change as the depth changes.53071

Many time we wish to apply Centerline or other vectors to a pattern or carve Region. This may be accomplished with the $50.00 add-on titled "Conforming Vectors" (CV). This add-on is well worth the cost!

Drill and mill areas, not done with the Raster carve will not accept the CV application at this time.

My "Download" link, below, has two lesson which you should review. The first is titled "Conforming Vectors", and the 2nd is "Pockets and Conforming Vectors".

Feel free to attach your MPC (design) if you need advice on a specific problem.
AskBud

bergerud
05-09-2012, 03:47 PM
I may be wrong but it sounds like the bit is not or barely not making it to the board. Insider05 may have more of a hardware problem as opposed to a centerline problem. Is the bit touching the bit plate? Have you tried extending the length of the bit in the chuck?

insiders05
05-09-2012, 05:58 PM
Thanks to all that have tried to help. I have made sure that the bit hits the bit plate. My question now is why does it change if I don't change the pattern? One time it does not touch the material, and then if I just run it again it will go all the way thought it.

AskBud
05-09-2012, 06:04 PM
Thanks to all that have tried to help. I have made sure that the bit hits the bit plate. My question now is why does it change if I don't change the pattern? One time it does not touch the material, and then if I just run it again it will go all the way thought it.It sound like your bit is loose in the chuck. What chuck do you have? What bit are you using? Please attach the MPC as well.
AskBud

insiders05
05-09-2012, 06:10 PM
I have the Carvetight, and am useing the 60-v. I have made sure that it is tight and that it is all the way in. What is the MPC and how do I attach?

AskBud
05-09-2012, 06:24 PM
I have the Carvetight, and am useing the 60-v. I have made sure that it is tight and that it is all the way in. What is the MPC and how do I attach?Is this a new machine from LHR or was it purchased elsewhere (New or Used)? I presume that you are using a bit from LHR (CW) along with a split collar.
My "Download" link, below, has a lesson titled "Attachments-Revised 7-9-2012" that shows the attachment process. A MPC is your Designer file.

insiders05
05-09-2012, 06:43 PM
it was used, but only had an hour on it. It was ruturned to the store where I got it for 1/2 price. I got it when they frist came out, so it is old. I have not had any problems with it until a few weeks ago when the quick change went out on it. I got the new z truck and the carvetight, along with new traction belts, and new bits. I took it all apart and cleaned it all out when I changed all the parts. I have ran many things in it since then, but still cant get the centerline to work. I will go watch yout download. thanks for your help.

chief2007
05-09-2012, 07:16 PM
What version of firmware are you running? Are you using the stop collars with the v groove bit?

Digitalwoodshop
05-09-2012, 07:27 PM
Can you confirm that you have the 14 pin FSC Cable system. The FSC Cable is the flat thin cable connected to the Z Head. See the picture and the easy way to tell is where your cover switch plugs in... IF it plugs in on top of the board in the picture than you have the 14 pin. If it is in the middle of the board then I am thinking you have the 18 pin thinner wires. If you have the 18 pin, I recommend the upgrade to the 14 pin with a new cable and 2 circuit boards.

So lets look at this from the machine side..... Since the V60 bit is pretty Short, this could be the key to the troubles... Since projects with the Carving Bit work and the difference is that the bit is longer... It could be some dirty rails on the Z or dirt in the Z Belt Cogs. The V60 SHORT bit moves the Z Head into Un Charted Territory sometimes, and this could be where dirty rails or belt cogs come in..... Something you posted... Sometimes it does not touch the board and other times it dives all the way into the board... Being that you upgraded to the Carve Tite.... I am thinking that the Rails and Belt Cogs are just fine.... AND you Don't have a frozen roller bearing.

You ALSO said that you just upgraded to the Carve Tite... I had 2 Refurbished Z Trucks in 2008 that the 2 screws holding the Z Cog Belt were loose, letting the Z Head to strange things.... You can test this by using your finger to hold the lower return pulley on the Z Belt and try to force the belt to slip on the Z Truck by moving it up and down. Others have posted that they have found loose belt screws too...

The Driving the Bit INTO the Board is a symptom of the 2007 problems with the 18 pin Flat FSC Cable.... The Cable that provides the POWER to the Z Motor AND sends back the PULSES to the Computer telling it where it is.... IF the pulses quit getting to the computer due to a broken wire in the FSC Cable then the computer KEEPS MOVING the Z Head until the Correct Number of Pulses are seen by the Computer... This is like the board loosing contact with the Brass Roller and the board keeps moving until the correct numbers of pulses are recieved....

So to me it is looking like 2 problems..... One is either the Bit not actually touching the Bit Plate but coming CLOSE..... Giving you what we call a Air Carve.... OR the Missing Pulses on the DOWN STROKE of the Z Cutting a LETTER and driving INTO the BOARD... I have some samples in my shop from the days of the old 18 pin FSC Cable.... Bits drilled into the board....

You can also have a bad 14 pin FSC Cable TOO... They are really a Consumable and will fail eventually.....

So if you have a "A" Serial Number Machine purchased in 2007 then you might have the old 18 pin FSC Cable...

Good Luck... Get Stumped you can always call me.. My number in on my web pages below.

SAWDUST inside the Encoder like MY Picture can causes this TOO.... AND a Encoder Wheel or Clear DISK spinning on the Shaft... Can Also Cause this... That picture is of my Y Motor.

Also Inspect the FSC Cable.... Picture of one I replaced before it failed... It was UGLY....


AL

insiders05
05-09-2012, 11:54 PM
Thanks Al,
I didn't know that I could upgrade it. I know that it is an a Model because I got it right when you could frist by them from sears a few years ago. I have not done much with it due to lots of things, but now I am taking time to learn as much as I can so I can have fun with it. I have not done anything to it other than change to the carvetight. I know that it has the old 18 pin fcs cable so maybe I will get a new one. What all do I need to change it over to the 14 pin? If all goes well I plan on getting a new machine in a few months and would like to keep this one running to but don't want to put lots of money into it if it is not worth it. It works so good with everything except centerline so I still wonder if it is me putting it in to the softwear wrong, or if it is the machine. I have upgraded my softwear often and keep it up to date, but I am a builder and not a computer guy. So maybe it is something I am doing wrong. Thanks for all the help this is a good idea to learn from those who have learned so much more than I have.
Alvin

Deolman
05-10-2012, 03:16 AM
What size is the shank on your 60 degree bit? By any chance are you using a 1/2" inch adapter on a 1/4" bit? Is there a possibility there is a slippage?

insiders05
05-10-2012, 09:12 AM
No I have a 1/2 shank bit. I do know that I didn't get it from Carvewright, but I thought that it would still work.

AskBud
05-10-2012, 09:22 AM
No I have a 1/2 shank bit. I do know that I didn't get it from Carvewright, but I thought that it would still work.Can you now attach your MPC?
Is the 1/2" shank carbide or regular steel? How do you assure that the bit is mounted at the same depth each time inserted into the chuck?
AskBud

Digitalwoodshop
05-10-2012, 09:53 AM
Excellent you have a old 18 pin FSC system. Driving into the board and Air Carves were the classic symptom of a failure of the thinner 18 pin cable.

The Replacement is pretty easy.... A new 14 pin cable and the circuit boards that go on each end.....

Something to do in the beginning that will save you some frustration later....

1. UN PLUG the machine before you start. Playing with the wires with the power ON of just Plugged in can cause you problems... Just Safer....

2. When you remove the Flex Shaft from the Z Truck, wrap some Masking Tape around the end to keep the Cored and Spring from falling out.... I have Stomped to DEATH 2 inner Flex Springs since 2007..... Tape has helped....

Just be sure you don't plug the new 14 pin cable into the OLD 18 pin sockets... The Wider pins of the 14 pin cable will short out the narrower pins in the socket and short out the Computer...

The trick I use to replace the cable is to remove the cable bracket and take a picture of how it is laid out. Even I had to refer to the picture when I got confused the first time. I lay the new cable on top of the old cable while it is still in the bracket and being sure that the cable is facing the correct way. The Contacts are only on one side and more than one person installed it facing the wrong way and the contacts were facing away from the socket pins. I fold the new cable at the 90 degree bends to get the placement correct. One of the machines I bought from a frustrated user having given up on the machine had a new FSC Cable installed. It was installed so the end going into the Z Truck was TOO SHORT. When the head went over to the Bit Plate it pulled the FSC Cable TOO TIGHT and ripped the copper wires at the last bend. I replaced the cable and the machine runs GREAT. That black plastic cap on the Z Truck end supports the FSC Cable, be sure to re install it... I place a short piece of Masking Tape over the cap and cable that prevents the cable from being pulled out of the Z Truck end. It can droop and snag on something.

Next is the 2 circuit boards and a few screws and your done.... The top cover left side cover switch cable now plugs into a jack on top and the WHITE wire of the wire bundle faces the center of the machine when plugging it in.

When you first turn the machine on AFTER the change of the cable and circuit board the machine will start up with the LCD telling you SCAN AREA.... You will need to follow the instructions that simply tell you to go into the machine setup and change where the computer gets the Probe Data from. It is now set to the Z Truck and you need to change it to Side Cover. That little jack on the inside of the cover, keypad side. The Cable from the Left Cover Switch is part of that wire bundle. The right side cover switch is the Cut Motor Safety Switch. When you remove the cover you can un plug the wires to set the cover aside. Caution... When moving the top cover when it is off the machine, there is no mechanical stop on the clear cover. If you don't support the clear cover it will rest on the 2 safety switches and has been known to push the switches so hard that the screws in plastic for the switches crack and the switches become loose. Just hold the clear cover while moving the cover. AND when you put the cover back on remember to Tuck the Right Side Cover Switch wires into the back right corner. IF YOU DON'T.... The longer Cooling Fins of the Z Motor will bump in to the Wires when your Z Head goes over to the Bit Plate and the bit flag won't come out far enough. So tuck the wires into the back corner. Early on the 14 pin conversion kit included a new Z Motor with SHORTER cooling fins to make the bumping into the Wires less of a problem... Now I believe they just send the cable and 2 circuit boards.

Your "A" Machine is really a GREAT MACHINE and will serve you WELL.... No need to think you need a new machine unless you want one for a backup....

Here is the Skinny on your "A" Version, So when you order the Kit you can order a few other things....

1. Know that the Power Supply on your machine can get the L2 Coil Failure. The L2 Coil is just a solid copper wire wrapped around a metal ferrite core. Like a Lolly Pop it is heavy and only supported by the copper wire. The wire is solid copper like House Wiring. And if you took a strand of copper house wire and bent it over and over again it would change color and snap. That is what happens with the L2 coil... The Machine vibration makes the wire bend and snap.... Engineers know this... And when building the power supply they have the manufacture use a shoe glue like stuff to glue the coil to hold it in place.... Even Non CarveWright Power Supplies have Glued Coils... Some 2007 Power Supplies did not get enough glue and I can count close to 50 that I know of on the Forum since 2007.... So whenever someone is starting to work with a 2007 machine I like to point out this info as "B" and "C" versions are very Trouble FREE... So when LHR sold something like 50 thousand +- Machines to Sears we saw a bunch of bad Power Supplies... But until they were all found and fixed we still see postings about it.... "LCD Display Blank".... "Power Fluctuation Warning" on LCD.. All symptoms of the Power Supply Problem. I post pictures and MANY have taken the power supply to a TV Repair Shop for a QUICK FIX.... No need to buy a new power supply. The Coil is in the Output leg of the 5 Volts DC line like a Fuse, the power passes through the L2 to get out of the power supply and that is why the machine goes dead. The windings of the coil act as a filter and remove the AC noise on the DC Power with the windings. The Expanding and Collapsing Magnetic Fields of the AC Noise get canceled out in the coil of wire and ferrite. Every Power Supply has this Coil. SO... Preventive Maintenance.... YOU can apply some GLUE to the Coil like LHR does when they refurbish the power supply. Remember Un Plug the unit....

Next on the "A" units.... The Board Sensor had a bad habit of snapping off the LED's... There are 2 LED's or Lights and 1 Photo Detector to see the reflected light from the board. Newer Photo Detectors have the green circuit board glued to the black plastic holder. This 1. Prevents the LED's from vibrating and snapping off and 2. Helps prevent dust from getting INSIDE the plastic Lens. To test the Sensor, place a sheet of white copy paper on a board and crank down. Options, Sensor Data and Board Detector... a 156 is perfect... a 90 is a dirty lens. White paper makes a standard... Every board can be a different color reflecting different light. To clean the inside of the lens, I use a knife and cut down the back of the holder after removing the back flap. The lens will then slide out to be cleaned. I use masking tape to seal it back up catching the edge of the lens with the tape.

Of my 4 machines, 3 ended up with a broken C1 Capacitor on the X Termination Board under the machine due to vibration of my old QC's. I failed to change them when worn and tried to get just one more project out of the QC... That resulted in Vibration and like the L2 coil snapped off.... You now have a Carve Tite so your in good shape. IF you ever notice that the Cut Motor Starts by it's self without the Computer telling it to start... YOU HAVE A BROKEN C1.... That is why it is important to NEVER bypass the right side cover safety switch. The Cut Motor can come ON while changing a BIT.... The Open Cover PROTECTS YOU.... with the safety switch.... And since you will be removing the top cover to change the FSC Cable.... To remove the Confusion of the Cut Motor Wires.... A Black and White Wire come from under the machine and the X Termination board. The Black Wire from under the machine goes to the black Wire of the Cut Motor. This leaves you with a White Wire from under the machine and a white wire from the motor.... Since they added a safety switch with a black and white wire.... The White Wire from the bottom of the machine takes a Detour through the safety switch... Just in and out.... So it does not matter what wire you use... It is just in and out..... So I usually hook the White Wire from the bottom to the Black Wire of the Switch and then the White Wire of the switch to the White Wire of the Motor. When Open, the cover prevents the Cut Motor from starting up.


That's IT.... Know this and if you want, buy a 14 pin FSC cable upgrade and a extra board sensor and you will be in good shape...


Other things to have....


Cut Motor Brushes, changed every 250 Cut Motor Hours.... I talked a Carve Buddy the other day and he had just had a Cut Motor Stall at 503 hours.... First set of brushes.... I have had a stall at around 395 hours.... I suggest 250 hours to prevent a stall from snapping a $40.00 Cutting Bit....


The Y Gear Box has 2 little 5mm x 11mm x 5mm bearings that take allot of abuse due to the Y going back and fourth so hard... When they fail the shaft of the big plastic gear starts to wear thin. This lets the big gear lean toward the center of the machine and loosen the belt. You will hear 3 click of the Y when the head is at the Bit flag where the Motor is slipping teeth on the leaning gear.... SO Preventive Maintenance will save you time later... I suggest replacing the bearings at 250 cut hours when you change the cut motor brushes. Buy Local or on line... They are standard bearings. http://www.avidrc.com/product/1/bearings/170/5x11x5-Metal-685ZZ-bearings.html One of many places to get them.... I buy a 10 pack...

X Gears... At sometime you will get a board jam and snap the X Gears..... I would by a set to have on hand..... To make changing the X Gears easier, we cut the plastic lip of the frame to make the first gear just pull off rather than remove all the screws and X Motor... Too easy to damage the motor...

Rail Roller Bearings and Screws are good to have on hand too....

The FSC Cable will eventually fail.... It is good to have them on hand... Shipping later will not be fun....

OK... any problems that have questions on, you can always call me... My number is on my web page below... I am in the shop until 11 PM most nights.

Good Luck with your "A" machine....

And a spare Flex Shaft is good to have too.... And Tips and Tricks on the LHR site has lots of good stuff that we all learned.

AL... Toooo much Coffee this morning.... A real Chatty Cathy this morning ..... Back to WORK...

chief2007
05-10-2012, 10:02 AM
No I have a 1/2 shank bit. I do know that I didn't get it from Carvewright, but I thought that it would still work.

Are you using a stop collar with it?
That is needed to make sure that it seats properly in the chuck to get the proper measurement

Digitalwoodshop
05-10-2012, 10:33 AM
Here are more pictures and another "A" version problem... The early Cut Motors had the Magnet on the end of the shaft held by heat shrink. It will eventually let go.... You will get a Check Cut Motor error a CCM.... To test... Options, Sensor Data, Cut Motor and rotate the Bit Chuck and turn the cut motor by hand. As the magnet passes the sensor it will count 0000 0001 0002 0003..... They have a Plastic Retainer that at one time would sell separate, I think they want the Cut Motor sent in now... Others have used supper glue to hold the magnet. I used yellow heat shrink and it gave up at about 50 hours...

You can run the machine with the Magnet Off but it will run at FULL SPEED.... Sometimes it runs at a slower RPM depending on the Computer.

Good Luck,

AL

See the dates on the pictures... 2007..... Picture 8... Disreguard the update to 1.121.... It's much higher now...

Digitalwoodshop
05-10-2012, 10:51 AM
And pictures of the X Termination board... It gets a computer input and passes the X Drive Signal though to the X Motor... The Q1 Transistor and the C1 Cap I was talking about in a earlier post, the Q1 is the Electronic On OFF Switch for the Cut Motor. The C1 Cap is part of that circuit and is why the Cut Motor starts when the C1 Cap touches after snapping off...

AL:roll::mrgreen::roll: Too much Coffee...

chief2007
05-10-2012, 11:15 AM
And pictures of the X Termination board... It gets a computer input and passes the X Drive Signal though to the X Motor... The Q1 Transistor and the C1 Cap I was talking about in a earlier post, the Q1 is the Electronic On OFF Switch for the Cut Motor. The C1 Cap is part of that circuit and is why the Cut Motor starts when the C1 Cap touches after snapping off...

AL:roll::mrgreen::roll: Too much Coffee...

All in Favor of AL writing the "CarveWright/CompuCarve for Dummies" book say I. :-D

lynnfrwd
05-10-2012, 11:40 AM
all in favor of al writing the "carvewright/compucarve for dummies" book say i. :-d


IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII!!!!!

(vbulletin is being really weird - keeps changing caps to lowercase)

Digitalwoodshop
05-10-2012, 12:18 PM
I should sit down someday and make up PDF files with pictures... It would be re inventing the wheel as LHR has an excellent Troubleshooting Guide... I could write the "Paul Harvey Version".... "The Rest of the Story" like the Firmware Lord posted the other day... "The rest is MAGIC"... stuff explained...

Back to work,

AL

unknowncarver
05-10-2012, 07:26 PM
I think LHR should pay Al to write the book and then provide it on their website as a free repair and maintenance guide. Al should get compensated if he is going to do this and it would be to LHR's benefit to provide this. Happy customers pass on their experiences to others who will purchase machines, bits, patterns, etc.

ladjr
05-10-2012, 08:09 PM
Al do you feel like you have been drafted.
With that said I vote for Al.

Leo

Digitalwoodshop
05-10-2012, 08:20 PM
Great Idea..... NAVY.... Never Again Volunteer Yourself.... LOL....

Actually it would be fun....

Time to do it at the moment is the roadblock... I am swamped.... I have about 12 weeks of work.... And I played Hooky after diner tonight.... Took the Puppy for a walk and the fish were jumping at the brook as a Hatch was on.... I got out my Fly Rod stored at the brook for such an occasion and proceeded to catch a bunch of sun fish... Had one trout but he jumped and was gone. Fished until dark... So it's 9:15 PM and the Heat Press is warming up behind me... I have a few tags to do....

Great Idea.... I think a PDF format would be the way to go...

AL

insiders05
05-11-2012, 10:43 PM
Thanks for all your help, I guess I will order the parts I need and get back to carveing.

chief2007
05-12-2012, 04:41 AM
Thanks for all your help, I guess I will order the parts I need and get back to carveing.

What did you come up with as your problem?

insiders05
05-26-2012, 12:03 AM
still have not fixed it. I have tried to not use the centerline and just use a text. Now it goes really deep and in the same letter it will pull up so high that it just touches the material. I have tried to calibraite it again, but it will not. Maybe it is time to get a new one.

AskBud
05-26-2012, 05:46 AM
still have not fixed it. I have tried to not use the centerline and just use a text. Now it goes really deep and in the same letter it will pull up so high that it just touches the material. I have tried to calibraite it again, but it will not. Maybe it is time to get a new one.I think it's time you attach your MPC so we may see the design you are using. The machine may be doing exactly what you tell it to do!
AskBud