X-Drive Gears

[IamDave]

Reading this forum it appears this is a common problem. My machine has been down for over 30 days now. First a traction belt separated at the seams. I ordered new traction belts (plus $12.00 shipping) and received them in 4 days which is a reasonable time. Replaced the belts and discovered broken teeth on one of the X-gears. Ordered these 13 days ago and the order is STILL waiting for warranty approval and it might ship today if approved. Anyway I ordered a new X-Drive Gear Train, at my expense, for $32.00 to get the machine running again, this option does not require approval even though the machine is under warranty.
I still like the CarveWright machine and what it is capable of but it’s aggravating for it to be down 30 days at a time no matter how much care and maintenance is done. I’m either going to have to purchase a second machine or buy all of the predictable replacement parts to stay running.
Hope to be carving again soon!

53068

[DocWheeler]

Dave,

Did you find out what caused the X gears to get that way? Was the carving-board wedged between the guides?
It looks like a serious feed problem, no wonder your belt came apart.

Or, was there another reason for the belt and gears?

[IamDave]

As soon as I get the CarveWright running again I hope to find out what happened. I received new traction belts in 4 days but unfortunately there seems to be a problem getting new X-gears shipped. I’ve been waiting for over 2 weeks now and they still have not arrived.

[chief2007]

If you haven't done so, do a follow up call and get a status. I have done that and the folks at LHR are good about it.

[IamDave]

The new X drive gears arrived yesterday but before installing them I thoroughly checked out the machine and found several problems that were likely caused when the machine was sent back to me from repair. I originally thought that it was just some cosmetic issues but any way I repaired what I could then installed the X gears.
Just finished a 3 hour project and all is good. I reloaded the same project board that was in the machine when the sandpaper belt broke and gears stripped and it ran through the machine with no problem.
Happy to be carving again!

[Digitalwoodshop]

I caught myself installing my fire tag sled today at a slight angle and cranked down the head. It would have jammed had I started the machine. But I have a Habit that before I turn on the machine after installing the board. I stand at the keypad and take my fingers and feel that gap between the left edge guide and the board both sides. More than once I found that the board caught on the brass roller and did not seat against the left guide. I recheck this after the machine finishes measuring the board again. I call it peace of mind just as I always watch the bit plate touch.

So it could have simply been a board placed in at an angle....

Good Job !!!!

AL

[Dave Boland]

Your problems are both due to " too much head pressure " Use a scale (cheap one) and watch as you tighten down on the board. When it reaches 70# stop and remember that feeling (regardless of no. of clutch releases) It may not click at all. or it may click 1,2, 3. Too much head pressure is the culprit that is usually the problem in destroying x gears and belts.

[IamDave]

Actually the head pressure is only 62 lbs. on either roller. It has been that way since it was sent back from the factory. There is only 1 clutch force adjustment spacer on the crank handle. All the vertical guide rods and lead screws have been thoroughly cleaned and lubricated.

Dave

[chief2007]

Had this happen to me once, but caught it in time before it damaged anything.

If by chance your wood is not square, and you seat the sliding plate tightly against the wood, it can wedge itself and jam the belts and damage the X gears.

Also if the board is warped, the wood can jam and tear the belts and damage the X gears - This is the more common cause...

[Digitalwoodshop]

That sliding plate in the middle is to never touch the board... The thickness of a Quarter away at minimum.

I can cause jams.

AL

[lynnfrwd]

Actually the head pressure is only 62 lbs. on either roller. It has been that way since it was sent back from the factory. There is only 1 clutch force adjustment spacer on the crank handle. All the vertical guide rods and lead screws have been thoroughly cleaned and lubricated.

Dave

Head pressure should be checked any time the machine is moved, whether in your trunk or by UPS (especially UPS). It should be in the 75 to 85 lb range. You need to raise your head pressure.

Go to www.carvewright.com > SUPPORT > MAINTENANCE where you will find documents to assist you with maintenance, repair and replacement.

See http://www.carvewright.com/2010CWweb/service/Service_instructions/CarveWright_service_adjust_head_pressure.pdf

[bergerud]

Actually the head pressure is only 62 lbs. on either roller. It has been that way since it was sent back from the factory. There is only 1 clutch force adjustment spacer on the crank handle. All the vertical guide rods and lead screws have been thoroughly cleaned and lubricated.

Dave

What do you mean "on either roller". I think the head pressure needs to be measured as total force from both rollers. If you measure one roller at a time, the head may twist and bind giving a lower reading.

[lynnfrwd]

What do you mean "on either roller". I think the head pressure needs to be measured as total force from both rollers. If you measure one roller at a time, the head may twist and bind giving a lower reading.

Good catch, Bergerud!

[IamDave]

My thought on checking the front and back compression rollers independently “on either roller” was to see if perhaps the front or the back was binding. They both checked the same so I assumed it was not just one of them causing low head pressure.
I followed the procedure for low head pressure and now I get 85 lbs.
Thanks,
Dave