Flex Shaft Lube Schedule

[fspearman1]

Probably here somewhere but can't find it.

How often should the flex shaft be lubricated and also what was the consensus on using the new formula chain lube?

[Sallen1215]

I only lube my flex shaft when the outer shield is warmer than normal which for me is about 2 times a year but it really depends on usage. Be sure to remember to take the shaft core out and spray it with chain and cable lube "WITH MOLY" let it dry completely and when re inserting it into the sheath be sure that you reverse the core end that was into the motor to the truck end. This assures even wearing on the square ends of the core.


Stephen

[lynnfrwd]

It is hard to say a time period. It does depend on usage. The correct answer is...when ever it needs it. If it is too hot to hold your hand on then it is time to lubricate.

We (LHR) do NOT believe the new formula with the Organic Moly is satisfactory to keep your flexshaft from melting. It must be the Molybdenum Disulfide

The old formula GUNK Industrial Chain Lube is hard to find anymore.

We are trying to identify one that can easily be found in most areas, but it looks like they may need to be ordered online.

[unitedcases]

Another thread was started not too long ago discussing a maintenance schedule, I do not know where that is but basically while changing out the brushes and other items during the "250" hr maintenance cycle we discussed that being a good time to do it. Just because of it already being out of the machine for the "250" cycle mainly.

[chief2007]

As needed or during every 250 hour maintenance cycle. Always monitor it and if it is running hot lube it, otherwise just on the 250 hour cycle.

The Old Liquid Wrench is very hard to find, hopefully LHR will recommend a replacement soon. Several users use Cranes Cam Lube and have fantastic results.

Here is a link http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-99002-1

A little goes a long way and stay about 6 inches away from each end to ensure that it does not run into the A/C Motor or Spindle

[fspearman1]

I found the "old" formula at a store called Big Lots. Not sure that it is a national chain but if there is a store in your area that sells close out items it may be available there. Also picked up some of the "dry" lube. It appears that Liquid Wrench has changed their packaging. Different shaped container.

[Bigtyme]

I found this on an atv site and it is called Yamalube Molybdenum Disulfide Grease which I believe is what LHR is recommending for the flex shaft. It is $6.99 for a 10 oz. tube plus $7.00 for shipping and handling. I guess I will know more about its performance in a week or so when the tube arrives.....
53113

[chebytrk]

Great. Please keep up posted on how it works out.


I found this on an atv site and it is called Yamalube Molybdenum Disulfide Grease which I believe is what LHR is recommending for the flex shaft. It is $6.99 for a 10 oz. tube plus $7.00 for shipping and handling. I guess I will know more about its performance in a week or so when the tube arrives.....
53113

[lynnfrwd]

I found this on an atv site and it is called Yamalube Molybdenum Disulfide Grease which I believe is what LHR is recommending for the flex shaft. It is $6.99 for a 10 oz. tube plus $7.00 for shipping and handling. I guess I will know more about its performance in a week or so when the tube arrives.....
53113

Talked to the engineers and they said, "anything that says GREASE on it should be avoided. It needs to be a penetrating lubricant."

[CNC Carver]

When you use this remember a little goes a long ways. I'm using a similar industrial product with no problems. Simply spread it on the flex shaft and reinsert. Get back to carving no wait time.


I found this on an atv site and it is called Yamalube Molybdenum Disulfide Grease which I believe is what LHR is recommending for the flex shaft. It is $6.99 for a 10 oz. tube plus $7.00 for shipping and handling. I guess I will know more about its performance in a week or so when the tube arrives.....
53113

[Bigtyme]

Hi Lynn,
I appreciate the heads up on the "grease" advice. Is there a particular reason to avoid grease?? The write up says it is design for high heat situations...and the label clearly identifies it as Molybdenum Sulfide...just curious. I play alot on atvs, so I guess it won't be a total loss if it definately isn't right for the flex shaft...

[cnsranch]

The CraneCams lube (advertised as a "paste", Connie :) ) is the way to go.

If the FS feels warm to the touch, that's a symptom of friction, pure and simple.

Friction is bad - causes wear.

Wear's bad, causes melt downs when it's extreme.

Like the flex shaft on my Dremel tool, so long as I keep it straight, it doesn't bind, get hot, and melt.

Bent it sharply so you can get that hard to reach screw head, and it'll go south real quick.

Trust me, I found that out the hard way - that's why I'm on my second Dremel FS.

It's the bend in the CW's FS that we need to worry about. It is what it is - there's nothing that can be done about that bend.

So. you have to lubricate the metal innards. I'm no engineer, and I'm certainly not a chemist, but runny chain lube never did make sense to me. Being runny, how the heck can you expect it to stay in those places where there's bending in the shaft?

Also, that runny stuff drips into the top hat, and then you're really done (oh, wait, apparently it DOESN'T stay where you want it to).

Use what you want, but my original FS is just fine, cool to the touch, and lubed a couple months ago just because it hadn't been in over 18 months, and I thought, what the heck.

EDIT

Re the comment about it needing to be a "penetrating lubricant" - I'll make a bet.

The bet is that the heat's generated at the surface of the metal shaft - where it collides with the spring - perhaps even binds with the spring. Excessive heat, and so goes the rubber outer shaft.

It's not the inside of the metal shaft, it's the outside.

Penetration of the shaft doesn't help if the outer part is dry.

[fwharris]

The CraneCams lube (advertised as a "paste", Connie :) ) is the way to go.

If the FS feels warm to the touch, that's a symptom of friction, pure and simple.

Friction is bad - causes wear.

Wear's bad, causes melt downs when it's extreme.

Like the flex shaft on my Dremel tool, so long as I keep it straight, it doesn't bind, get hot, and melt.

Bent it sharply so you can get that hard to reach screw head, and it'll go south real quick.

Trust me, I found that out the hard way - that's why I'm on my second Dremel FS.

It's the bend in the CW's FS that we need to worry about. It is what it is - there's nothing that can be done about that bend.

So. you have to lubricate the metal innards. I'm no engineer, and I'm certainly not a chemist, but runny chain lube never did make sense to me. Being runny, how the heck can you expect it to stay in those places where there's bending in the shaft?

Also, that runny stuff drips into the top hat, and then you're really done (oh, wait, apparently it DOESN'T stay where you want it to).

Use what you want, but my original FS is just fine, cool to the touch, and lubed a couple months ago just because it hadn't been in over 18 months, and I thought, what the heck.

EDIT

Re the comment about it needing to be a "penetrating lubricant" - I'll make a bet.

The bet is that the heat's generated at the surface of the metal shaft - where it collides with the spring - perhaps even binds with the spring. Excessive heat, and so goes the rubber outer shaft.

It's not the inside of the metal shaft, it's the outside.

Penetration of the shaft doesn't help if the outer part is dry.

Jerry,

I've been using the CraneCam Lube since I believe it was ChrisALB posted it on the forum 2009 maybe. I bought the 4 oz packets and do not think I have even used one half of one of them yet. I basically lube the middle third of the shaft.

[bergerud]

Jerry: It is well known that the heat generated by a bent flex cable is due to the internal friction of the strands rubbing on each other. The lube has to penetrate the flex cable and wet all of the strands. I think this is why it is recommended to use a moly lube which has a penetrating carrier. It may be that the Crane cams assembly lube later penetrates the flex as it is used, and so, is fine. According to Al, a small dab on the middle of the flex is all he needs. The stuff must work itself into the flex and spread around on its own. I submerse and rotate mine in the liquid Gunk lube while inside a coiled copper pipe every 50 hours or so. My flex is nearing 600 hours and has never been even warm. Probability overkill. Whatever works is good! The Yamalube Molybdenum Disulfide Grease might, like the cam lube, work just fine.

I think the engineers at LHR, knowing the need for the penetration, are just playing it safe to say avoid grease.

[Digitalwoodshop]

I agree, stay away from the Grease as it has a higher surface friction and without the solvent that helps keep the Molly suspension letting it get into the nooks and crannies of the Flex Core like butter on a English Muffin.

And my trick is to just a dime size dab in the middle of the flex core between my fingers and push it back in... Like others I go many months between lubrication... I make it part of my bit change routine to "Pet" the Flex Shaft checking for heat... First sign of it getting warm I wait until the project is finished and then lube it while it is still warm. Never had a top hat problem. Did have a Flex snap in the center, but I think it was more the project and the 3/8 end mill was dull and the wood was hard pine. And I went too deep... It was my use of the OUTLINE Mode and Modern Text Font. At 2.25 inches and a 3/8 bottom cutting end mill, it makes perfect looking flat bottom letters.

With the Flex and a expensive replacement, I recommend going with the "Official" LHR advice.... I would hate to have someone say a flex burned up with just a dab.... And the Spring has allot to do with heat too.... Some may remember my story about my Smoke Detector going off above my machine. I had kinked the spring whipping the Outer Core around when it was soft from sitting in the sun during a repair. Black Smoke.... Almost fire.... So be Gentle.... I learned my lesson.

[Bigtyme]

This is a very interesting topic to me and I appreciate all the thoughts very much. I typically always follow manufacturer's recommendations, but I may try the yamalube once it comes in just to see what the results are. I always stay close to my CW when in use and check the shaft a number of times during a carve, so at the first sign of too much warmth, I can shut r down. I also agree with the thoughts about using a small amount over the length of the shaft within about 6 inches of the ends since the ends are rarely warm at all, but certainly the arched section can be.
I expect to see the yamalube at my door sometime next week, but I am off to my place in the west end of Michigan's Upper Peninsula today to get ready for walleye opener Tuesday, so it will be the following week before I can fire up my CW again. I will certainly post results either good or bad upon my 550 mile trek back to Troll Land (below the bridge :) )...
This forum amd all the good folks who never hesitate to help continue to make me sure my CW purchase was one of the best I ever added to my shop....very much appreciated!!!

[Bigtyme]

Well, when I got back from a week in God's Country last evening (I can still taste the walleye :) ), the Yamalube was waiting for me. Tonight I took the time to use a very small amount starting at the center of the flex shaft and working outward within about 3" of each end. I then reinstalled the spring and shaft and began a 3 hour carve. I monitored it pretty closely and while it got warm near the apex of the arch, it never got too hot to touch. Near the ends of the shaft it was actually cool. I followed up the 3 hour carve with a 2 hour carve which was just completed. All in all, my CW carved for about 5 hours in about 6 1/2 hours of time and all went well. It certainly is too soon to draw any concrete conclusions, but for now I plan to continue to watch closely and see how long this lasts. I have a number of carves on the agenda and expect to give my CW a good workout over the next couple of weeks and one will be at least 6 hours. Stay tuned, I guess, but if this works well, this material is readily available (most any Yamaha Dealer) and reasonable in cost at $6.99 for 10 ozs. It may last me for a long time given how little I used, but we will see....

[Dwayne]

I can't find this anywhere else, at least in a "quoted" sort of way....Question: Does my new replacement Flexshaft arrive to me already lubricated, which I did get also when I ordered the FS or do I have to give it a dose.. ? Sorry if this isn't in the right place but it seemed quite relevant :confused:

[lynnfrwd]

New flexshafts and flexshafts in new machines are lubricated by us before sending out.

When a machine is in for upgrade or repair, we do NOT lubricate it. We do test to see if it is good (twist test), but it is not lubricated. If it is not good, then we replace it with a new one that has been lubricated.

[Dwayne]

Thanks Lynn, much appreciated :D

[fwharris]

Just make sure you monitor the flex shaft temperature during your carves. A quick touch of the hand as it is carving will give you a good indication. If you have an infrared thermometer use it to keep track of the actual temperature. If it gets above 100* keep a closer watch on it. Also make sure you do have some flex shaft lube on hand for when you do need to lube it..