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lynnfrwd
03-14-2012, 03:18 PM
INSPIRATION FOR THIS THREAD:
Had a customer totally embarrassed that he (or someone) had cranked the head too high and he couldn't figure out how to get the head back down. Told him, "every newbie does this at least once".

So, here is what I would like to see in this thread. Please, post a newbie issue and the fix.


Title: Short Description

NEWBIE ISSUE: short description of issue

FIX: short description of fix, pages # on manual and / or links are great when necessary

How to Avoid: tips on avoiding this issue

lynnfrwd
03-14-2012, 03:28 PM
Issue: I (or someone) cranked the head of my machine up too high and now I can't figure out how to get it down.

Fix: When facing the front of your machine with the keypad on your left, look inside the machine. You will see a two main threaded lead screws, one on each end of the gap (or trough) between the Heavy Duty or Sandpaper Belts. Look at the one on your right. There is a hole through the middle of the right lead screw about 1" above the belts. You may need a light or to just feel for the hole to find it. Insert an allen wrench (or other similar device) through that hole and crank it clock-wise. This will allow you to manually crank it down.

How to avoid: The head is guided up and down on four vertical posts, one at each corner of the machine. Notice the notch on each post about 1" from the top of each. When cranking the head up, do not raise it above these notches.

lynnfrwd
03-14-2012, 04:02 PM
Issue: I carved a project and it came out very small

Fix: Can't fix it on that project, but you can avoid it next time by following the 7" Rule when selecting STAY UNDER ROLLERS.

How to Avoid: Follow the 7" Rule when staying under rollers. This means, if you design a project that is 10" x 14" x 3/4", then the actual board you put in the machine should be 10" x 21" x 3/4". This gives you 3 1/2" on each end (7" total) to allow the board to STAY UNDER ROLLER. Selecting STAY UNDER ROLLERS assumes you have added the necessary 7" and will take 3 1/2" from each side, therefore "squishing" your project down really small.

See TIPS & TRICKS ISSUE 3 - Handy Tips for Everyone! - December 2007 (http://www.carvewright.com/downloads/tips/CarveWright_Tips_and_Tricks_Dec07.pdf)

NOTE: Other Effects of not following the 7" Rule.
The rollers are applying about 70 to 80 pounds of pressure on the board. When one end pops out from under a roller, it can cause other problems such as:
1. snap the bit - particularly the 1/8" cutting bit
2. snipe - a physical line about 3 1/2" from the edge of the project board where it moved ever so slightly when it came out from under the rollers and changed the carving depth.
3. an error message like edge detection failure or check tracking roller

gregsolano
03-14-2012, 11:10 PM
Bit plate does not come completely out when machine is checking bit length.

This was my first problem. If you look at the machine when it is checking the bit size you will see that the truck basically just bumps into the bit plate which causes it to swing out. When dust or dirt gets into the spring and the hinge on this plate it becomes too hard to open and does not do so when the truck hits it. Blow it out from time to time ( I do it when cleaning the machine after every carve. I then manually ( with my hand) pop the plate in and out to make sure it works and to help work loose any other sawdust, then I use spray lube (not too much, and note, WD40 is not a lube, the WD stands for Water Displacement, it is a rust inhibitor) . Since I do this after every carve I no longer ever have that problem when carving. Sometimes there are wires in the corner on the top of the same side of the machine which can fall down and keep the truck from going far enough to engage the bit plate. Just push the wires back into the corner and you will be back carving.

AskBud
03-15-2012, 05:31 AM
Bit plate does not come completely out when machine is checking bit length.

This was my first problem. If you look at the machine when it is checking the bit size you will see that the truck basically just bumps into the bit plate which causes it to swing out. When dust or dirt gets into the spring and the hinge on this plate it becomes too hard to open and does not do so when the truck hits it. Blow it out from time to time ( I do it when cleaning the machine after every carve. I then manually ( with my hand) pop the plate in and out to make sure it works and to help work loose any other sawdust, then I use spray lube (not too much, and note, WD40 is not a lube, the WD stands for Water Displacement, it is a rust inhibitor) . Since I do this after every carve I no longer ever have that problem when carving. Sometimes there are wires in the corner on the top of the same side of the machine which can fall down and keep the truck from going far enough to engage the bit plate. Just push the wires back into the corner and you will be back carving.I'll offer my Bit Plate check list here.
AskBud
Turn the machine off and move the Truck by hand and see if you can accomplish the task with no extreme pressure. There could be several reasons for the contact not to be made, or the plate to move stiffly.

1) The Truck travel may be impeded by dirt on the rail, or in the track. Lube on the track or blowing out the inside of the track may help.
2) The Truck belt may not be tight enough (The adjustment is made by changing the tension on the Right end of the track).
3) The Bit Plate may need a spot of lube.
4) Check for a set of wires to be blocking the Bit Plate movement (They are just beyond the Plate, and should not touch). Move them toward the main cut motor. They actually impede the truck from contacting the Bit (touch) Plate with enough force to move it in place.
5) As a last item, you may have a frozen Y-truck bearing.