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View Full Version : Industria Synchroon - Project of the Month MARCH 2012



mtylerfl
02-29-2012, 03:38 PM
Hello,

Here is a preview of the next Project of the Month (for MARCH 2012), the Industria Synchroon.

Here is a unique mantle/table clock reminiscent of the late eighteenth century industrial age. The Industria Synchroon clock makes a fun and bold design statement in your home or business!

The project uses the 1/16" Carving Bit and the 1/8" Cutting Bit. The overall dimensions of the finished project are about 14" x 8½" x 3" deep.


Main items you will need:

1) The Project Files (included):
• Board_1.mpc
• Board_2.mpc

2) Boards with the following dimensions:
Board 1: .75" x 11" x 27"
Board 2: .75" x 11" x 28"

(NOTE: Do not use boards that are smaller than specified above, or if you are using a sled, you can subtract 7" from the length of the board and have the sled provide the extra 7" required)


3) A 3¼" clock insert (we used model #15559 from http://www.klockit.com)

4) Sandpaper, wood glue, epoxy, ¼" dia. wooden dowels and dowel buttons, stain or paint and clear finish

5) A Dremel-type rotary tool with assorted sanding wheels and bits to sand small details and speed up preparation for finishing.

Apply stain/paint and clearcoat of your choice.

I plan to finish my own Industria Synchroon (made from Select Pine) using a variety of Sculpt Nouveau metallic paints. I decided this too late to include the final finished photos at the moment...but watch this CarveWright Forum thread for the final pics and finishing details!

rickyz
02-29-2012, 04:09 PM
looks like a fun project. can't wait to try it.... also like the fact that it uses the same clock insert as the 1930s radio clock... awesome job!!!!! as usual.......

rickyz
02-29-2012, 04:15 PM
will it be available tomorrow? or in a couple days?

b.sumner47
02-29-2012, 04:16 PM
WOW ! Looks like fun.
Thanks, Micheal T


Capt Barry

mtylerfl
02-29-2012, 04:27 PM
Thanks, everyone!


will it be available tomorrow? or in a couple days?

I know LHR always strives to release the POM's by the end of day on the 1st of each month (unless it's a holiday or weekend or something), but can actually be anytime during the first week of any given month. I was much later than usual getting the files to them...since I decided just several days ago to apply the Sculpt Nouveau metallics, my order had not arrived in time to make the deadline for on-time release, so wrapped the instructions up and sent the files.


Keep an eye out for photos of the "finished" Synchroon! (paint...must dry faster...faster...)

Smoken D
02-29-2012, 06:22 PM
Ahh, good grief, are you telling me another month has gone by already????? Looks like a really great project Michael, THANKS!

lynnfrwd
02-29-2012, 07:39 PM
Ahh, good grief, are you telling me another month has gone by already????? Looks like a really great project Michael, THANKS!

It is a little shorter month. Will try to get this out to you all tomorrow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

mtylerfl
02-29-2012, 08:21 PM
Ahh, good grief, are you telling me another month has gone by already????? Looks like a really great project Michael, THANKS!

Thank you, Smoken! Yes...the months seem to fly by don't they!

rickyz
02-29-2012, 08:31 PM
I figured it might be a little late this month with the short month....awesome job....:)

rickyz
02-29-2012, 08:37 PM
can't wait to see the painted pics.....

bayea
02-29-2012, 11:54 PM
i want !!!!

jpaluck
03-01-2012, 02:47 AM
Good looking project Michael

Skyhawk
03-01-2012, 07:39 AM
Great project! Now if I can ever get my machine back from Sears...3 months and waiting :(

AskBud
03-01-2012, 08:00 AM
Great project! Now if I can ever get my machine back from Sears...3 months and waiting :(Three months is way too long. When have you last asked for the status?
AskBud

mtylerfl
03-01-2012, 10:34 AM
Great project! Now if I can ever get my machine back from Sears...3 months and waiting :(

Thanks, Jim (and everyone else!).

Jim, I hope your machine returns in good order soon. Always worries me when folks let Sears work on a machine. Last I knew, only 2 people were trained on it, and at just one location... the Garland, TX Sears Service Center. Might want to follow-up on it and make sure it went to the right place. I agree with Bud...way too long to be gone...3 weeks would be pushing it...3 months sounds really excessive to me.

Ok, back on track...I've been having FUN the past couple days with applying the metallic Sculpt Nouveau coatings. Humid here, so having to wait a bit longer between coats/procedures.

rickyz
03-01-2012, 02:49 PM
paint scheme looks pretty cool.... can't wait to see it finished...

mtylerfl
03-01-2012, 03:43 PM
paint scheme looks pretty cool.... can't wait to see it finished...

Thanks, Ricky. So far, I've applied Sculpt Nouveau Brass B, Silver B and Copper B metallic paints. They have "B" and "C" formulas...the C formula has 600% more metal than the B formula and can be buffed, polished and handled just like real metal. I really like the C formula, but chose B because it's a little more economical and doesn't require the extra buffing/polishing to bring out the metallic sheen. Thinking using the "B" would be easier for "first time" users, if anyone wants to have as much fun with this stuff as I am! The "B" formula works great, and I like it very much, too. (see photos below of a project I did under contract with another company recently using the Silver B and a black wax)

I am very tempted to apply the Silver C formula over the gear - so I might do that - haven't decided for sure. (It is recommended to apply 2 coats of "B" then 2 coats of "C" to build up a good solid layer of metal before buffing, etc. - cheaper to get the first 2 coats laid down using B than to do all coats with C.) The gear does have nice flat areas that would not be too difficult to buff and polish.

After all the coatings have been applied, then I will "grunge" the heck out of it (using stains/patinas/or waxes) to make it look more like older metal for the most part. I had considered using some Bondo to apply a rough/wipe-down/coarse texture over pretty much all of it before applying the metal paint. However, the paint has enough "body" to it, that you can achieve a nice muted texture by "stippling" (pouncing) the end of your brush over the painted surfaces.

rickyz
03-01-2012, 04:42 PM
how far does the paint go? I see it's about twelve bucks for 8 ounces. looks very cool though...this is one awesome project... this was my final pom before my subscription expires.. nice way to go out although i'm definitely going to renew....

mtylerfl
03-01-2012, 04:53 PM
how far does the paint go? I see it's about twelve bucks for 8 ounces. looks very cool though...this is one awesome project... this was my final pom before my subscription expires.. nice way to go out although i'm definitely going to renew....

The 8oz. size will cover about 20 sq. ft., I'm told. I put 3 coats of Silver B on the coin bank on both sides and the edges (the 3rd coat was very light - could have stopped at just 2 no problem, and that's what I did on a second bank). I made two of those banks...one to give to a friend of mine who owns a "buffalo" ranch (actually, they are Bison...NOT buffalo), and another one for me to keep and take to conferences, shows, etc. I had enough left over from that one 8oz. jar to do at least three more, I estimate.

On the Industria Synchroon, I have PLENTY of the paint left over. Not a lot of surface area on this project, so the jars will last me awhile (well, until I get the bug to do another "metallic" project or two, or three, or...)

rickyz
03-01-2012, 05:28 PM
good to know... thank you...

chebytrk
03-01-2012, 09:20 PM
these are the kind of demo classes that we need at our upcoming conference.



Thanks, Ricky. So far, I've applied Sculpt Nouveau Brass B, Silver B and Copper B metallic paints. They have "B" and "C" formulas...the C formula has 600% more metal than the B formula and can be buffed, polished and handled just like real metal. I really like the C formula, but chose B because it's a little more economical and doesn't require the extra buffing/polishing to bring out the metallic sheen. Thinking using the "B" would be easier for "first time" users, if anyone wants to have as much fun with this stuff as I am! The "B" formula works great, and I like it very much, too. (see photos below of a project I did under contract with another company recently using the Silver B and a black wax)

I am very tempted to apply the Silver C formula over the gear - so I might do that - haven't decided for sure. (It is recommended to apply 2 coats of "B" then 2 coats of "C" to build up a good solid layer of metal before buffing, etc. - cheaper to get the first 2 coats laid down using B than to do all coats with C.) The gear does have nice flat areas that would not be too difficult to buff and polish.

After all the coatings have been applied, then I will "grunge" the heck out of it (using stains/patinas/or waxes) to make it look more like older metal for the most part. I had considered using some Bondo to apply a rough/wipe-down/coarse texture over pretty much all of it before applying the metal paint. However, the paint has enough "body" to it, that you can achieve a nice muted texture by "stippling" (pouncing) the end of your brush over the painted surfaces.

jaroot
03-01-2012, 11:10 PM
Really nice project Michael. Might even give it a go when it is available to the general public. Great work!

bayea
03-01-2012, 11:47 PM
cool, its available now ! :-)

lynnfrwd
03-02-2012, 07:32 AM
cool, its available now ! :-)

Yes, it is. We decided last month not to make non-subscribers wait a month. POM Subscribers saved $30 on this months project.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

mtylerfl
03-02-2012, 10:16 AM
these are the kind of demo classes that we need at our upcoming conference.

I have my fingers and toes crossed that Doug Haffner will cover that kind of stuff at the Conference...he is the resident expert on cool finishes!! Those of you who attended last year's CW Conference know how helpful, knowledgable and entertaining Doug is!!

mtylerfl
03-02-2012, 01:17 PM
I "grunged" the big gear today. After applying a couple coats of clear Smart Coat (over the Silver B) and allowing to dry, I applied some Black Smart Stain, then wiped off.

I tried to "think like a worn gear", wiping/rubbing off the stain to highlight some areas I imagined would have "silver" showing through the "grunge" from wear and tear if it were a real gear. Photos don't really show the effect as well as in person. The dang thing actually DOES look very much like an old metal gear! I think I need to apply a final light coat of the clear Smart Coat over the now stained piece, but need to go check the directions again to be sure...

ladjr
03-02-2012, 03:12 PM
Great job Mike. I have to wait until tomorrow to get started. It sure looks like a metal gear.

Leo

mtylerfl
03-03-2012, 01:42 PM
Continuing on with the finish application...

I applied Sculpt Nouveau Black Smart Stain to the Panel assembly and Handle/Arms, then wiped/dabbed/rubbed the stain off to highlight the metal and textures. On the Gear that was done earlier, I used the Smart Stain undiluted, but on the Panel and Handles, I diluted the stain with equal amounts of Smart Stain AND Smart Coat 1K clear. I just mixed them in a foam cup and brushed the stain on with a disposable chip brush...then wiped, dabbed, etc. to highlight. I diluted it because I wanted a slightly more translucent stain and wouldn't need to wipe so much off like I did the Gear.

mtylerfl
03-03-2012, 02:04 PM
Final Assembly...

I glued the dowels in all the holes. The 1" dowels are glued into the gear holes...the shorter 3/4" dowels are glued into the panel holes. I did need to "ream" out the holes so the dowels would fit nicely again because of some paint that got inside the holes during finishing. I just took a 1/4" drill bit and twisted it in & out of the holes by hand...took about a minute or two.

I elevated the panel from the flat worksurface using 4 popsicle sticks and five index cards at each corner. Then I elevated the gear by just using two 3/4" thick wood scraps under it. This gave me the right height positioning for the "floating gear" to account for the recesses where the handles are glued on the front. (That may make more sense when you actually assemble your own Synchroon.)

I then epoxy-glued the handles to the panel & gear, then glued the dowel button plugs to cover the holes. After the glue set, I cut a couple strips of self-stick felt to place on the underside, then pushed in the clock insert to finish the assembly.

Smoken D
03-03-2012, 02:13 PM
Really came out GREAT Michael!

mtylerfl
03-03-2012, 02:19 PM
...and here are the final photos!

easybuilt
03-03-2012, 03:17 PM
Beautiful Job Michael!! Can't wait to carve mine next week!

mtylerfl
03-03-2012, 05:30 PM
Beautiful Job Michael!! Can't wait to carve mine next week!

Thank you. I can't wait to see how everyone finishes THEIR Synchroons!

eelamb
03-03-2012, 06:22 PM
Nicely done MT, like the finish and the project.

rickyz
03-03-2012, 10:23 PM
simply awesome!!!!! love the aging process you did and the colors are great!!!!! can't wait to get mine all cut out...

Capt Bruce
03-04-2012, 06:39 PM
Great project and really like your finishing colors that bring out the design elements.
I do have to ask . . . where did the project name Industria Synchroon come from Michael? Dutch perhaps?

Looking forward to carving it soon.

lawrence
03-04-2012, 08:02 PM
that looks EXCELLENT - great job

Lawrence

SharonB
03-04-2012, 11:56 PM
Do you know if we can we buy the paints local or do we have to order online from the company?

mtylerfl
03-05-2012, 07:52 AM
Do you know if we can we buy the paints local or do we have to order online from the company?

Hi Sharon,

They do have some distributors that have their products on the shelf. Here is the link to their distributor page:

http://www.sculptnouveau.com/distributors.cfm

However, I prefer calling them directly and placing an order over the phone (besides, there are no distributors near me anyway). The staff is friendly and helpful. Because I was unsure of what I actually needed, they were able to answer my questions and make recommendations so I was sure to get the products that best suited what I was trying to do. Of course, in this case, if you are just replicating what I did, you already know which products to buy. But you may want to ask them about their other products (such as their iridescent powders, etc.) for further creative possibilities!

mtylerfl
03-05-2012, 07:57 AM
Great project and really like your finishing colors that bring out the design elements.
I do have to ask . . . where did the project name Industria Synchroon come from Michael? Dutch perhaps?

Looking forward to carving it soon.

Hi Capt. Bruce,

Yes, I believe "synchroon" is a Dutch word. I stumbled on it accidentally during a search for antique stuff a few months ago. I liked the word and wrote it down with plans to use it on a future clock project title. I am making up my own rules as I go along. I'm not sure if synchroon is a proper word for a clock or not - but it sounded cool to me!

rcdages
03-05-2012, 10:24 AM
Michael,

Outstanding finish, really really looks good.

Way to go Sir.

mathman
03-05-2012, 06:18 PM
I'm not sure if synchroon is a proper word for a clock or not - but it sounded cool to me!

Yahoo's Dutch to English translator translates "synchroon" as "synchronous".

mtylerfl
03-06-2012, 08:05 AM
Yahoo's Dutch to English translator translates "synchroon" as "synchronous".Thanks for checking that out - good deal - that fits a clock alright!

easybuilt
03-10-2012, 06:02 PM
This is what I came up with for the Industria Synchroon. I tried to make it look a little antiquish with some green's and gold tones.
I used a gold, green and blue color wash stain with some oak stain.

Great project Michael! Thanks for creating it.

b.sumner47
03-10-2012, 07:18 PM
Tom, Neat looking, good job on the paint.


Capt Barry

mtylerfl
03-10-2012, 09:23 PM
I love it, Tom! That's a great look -Thank you for showing it to us!

easybuilt
03-11-2012, 10:35 AM
Thank you Michael Capt Berry! There are so many combinations of paint colors to use with this.
I put the picture on Facebook and have received 21 likes and 15 comments.
So rewarding.

Smoken D
04-24-2012, 06:48 PM
Been really tough to get time for woodworking lately. Really wanted to do this POM and took 3 weekends, yesterday, today to finish it. Cannot wait till July when this job will be done and back to retirement:-D
Anyway, decided to make this one out of Walnut for the Walnut table we have in the 2nd bedroom. No clocks in that room. The pins out of oak for some contrast. Yes, that is a stain glass in the top of the table. Silly idea I came up with when I made it. But, the walnut clock goes nice with the table, and you know the boss just loved it. Said the clock may show up in other places. Told her maybe I'll make the next out of oak with walnut pins.
Great Job on this one Michael!

b.sumner47
04-24-2012, 08:32 PM
Nice workmanship, they each look great. Isn't retirement great, until every one and his sister fine's out your retired !!!!!


Capt Barry

Mark Dubya
05-08-2012, 12:20 PM
The Industria Synchroon is a fun project. Here is a couple pics of my rendition. I went for the old machinery look and made it look dirty and rusty and banged up. I made hex nuts on my Carvewright and installed them on the levers. First, I painted everything a flat brown using a canned spray-on, then dry brushed the red and yellow in acrylic paint for the rust. The steel color on the edges is "Rub-n-Buff" silver leaf.


5304753048

CNC Carver
05-08-2012, 12:25 PM
Very nice work Mark. I would have never guessed it was wood from looking at photo's.

easybuilt
05-08-2012, 12:31 PM
That is a awesome look and I love the hex nuts! Thanks for telling us how you painted it, great ideas!!

ladjr
05-08-2012, 01:06 PM
Great job, I looked at the pictures before reading the caption and almost thought it was metal. Real great finish.

Thanks for sharing.

Leo

mtylerfl
05-08-2012, 01:15 PM
Excellent job, Mark! Thank you for showing it to us and explaining your finish technique!

Mark Dubya
05-08-2012, 04:59 PM
Thanks for the kind words everyone. I have a few more details on how I finished the clock and got the "old machine" look. It does take a while to get it right.
1. It should look worn and well used- so sand off all of the sharp edges left by the Carvewright. I used a flap sander to really wear the corners down.
2. Apply the base coat in an enamel paint such as Rustoleum. Then apply the brush-on acrylic paint. The acrylic paint just sticks hard to raw wood, but when you apply it over the enamel you can get just the right effect using a wiping rag.
3.Think about where rust and dirt would accumulate and make it rusty in those places.
4. Also think about where handling and friction would keep the rust away and make those parts silver.
5. The nuts are not just hexes with holes- the edges need to be rounded and the hole should be counter-sunk slightly in order to look like real nuts.
6. The new Klockit clocks I bought looked too new to be in an old machine so I removed the bezel and buffed away some of the shiny brass with steel wool. I also buffed the paper face and the hands to make them look old.
7. Most old machines have seen some hard use so I took the edge of my pliers and whacked the parts of the machine where it seemed an old machine would be whacked. Then I applied some silver paint to the dents.

I hope this makes sense! Here are a couple pics of the stuff I used. Don't worry about the brand- just use a good brown spray-on and some red and yellow acrylics. I also used some special metal bearing acrylic paint that you make rusty- nice effect but hard to use.



5305553056

TerryT
05-08-2012, 05:55 PM
Wow, impressive finish. Great job!

b.sumner47
05-08-2012, 10:25 PM
Excellent work. I just dug mine up today, hope it comes out like your's.


Capt Barry