Mystery Clock

[DickB]

The Mystery Clock is available from the PatternDepot: https://store.carvewright.com/product.php?productid=23467&cat=0&page=151418 (https://store.carvewright.com/product.php?productid=23467&cat=0&page=1)It's an advanced level project, as a drill press is required and there are quite a few parts to machine and assemble. At the same time, I believe it can be a good project for the first-time wood gear clock builder. The instructions include many detailed construction photos which hopefully facilitate the build. A hardware kit is available, making it easier to obtain non-wooden parts such as rare earth magnet, bearings, brass threaded rod, and electronics, all from a single source.I believe this is the most complex project in the store, and while effort has gone into making the instructions complete and accurate, the chance for omissions or mistakes on a project of this complexity are certainly there. If anyone encounters issues or problems, please bring them forward, and I will address them as quickly as I am able.

[Skyhawk]

What an incredible project! Do you have any information on the hardware kit, and approximate cost of it?

[DickB]

Thanks. Info on the hardware kit is at www.carveshop.com (http://www.carveshop.com).

[liquidguitars]

Very nice....

[DickB]

In addition to offering the clock as a project, I also build them myself. Always looking to make improvements, I have made a few. One of them addresses a characteristic of the clock that does not appeal to everyone - the clock does make a rather pronounced tick-tock sound. My own clock is in my office, but the door is usually open, and my wife complained about the sound in the next room. I had quieted it some by adding some cork pads to the pawls, which satisfied her. But I figured I could do better. I decided to replace the entire tip of the driving and locking pawls with cork, and that really quieted the clock. Of course it's still not silent, but if the sound is a bit much, this is worth a try.

60425

I was initially concerned about wear on the cork, but many months of operation has cause no noticeable wear on the cork pads that I had been using, so I think this will hold up fine.

Having built several clocks, I've learned that the most critical part of the build is to drill the holes in the large wheels (gears) absolutely in the center, and get the brass tube shafts absolutely perpendicular. I've been working on methods to make this easier to do, and hope to provide updated .mpcs soon.

[ladjr]

It is a great project. I was honored to be a test subject. If you take your time and triple check everything, you will have a great time and a great clock.

[bergerud]

How about felt like on piano linkages?

[DickB]

Might be worth a try. The pawls must slide on the teeth of the ratchet wheel, then engage, unlike a piano where the hammer and felt is struck but not slid. The concerns I have are wear and friction. There is not a lot of energy in this battery-operated clock, so too much friction can prevent the works from operating properly. Also, the rigid pawls themselves act as sounding boards even with the cork padding. But using cork for the whole tip plus part of the pawl allows a lot of energy to be absorbed or dissipated before getting to the solid material.

[bergerud]

Actually, I was not thinking of the piano hammer felt. There are sliding felt interfaces in the linkages between the keys and the hammers. I think to stop any clicking noises. Just an idea.

[guido5286]

First off I'd like to say this is amazing and I hope one day I can afford to buy this project and the hardware kit. It would cool to just to say I made that and display it in my house. But I do have one question. Why do you have to use a drill press can the machine not drill the holes that you need?

[DickB]

Thanks! In addition to a great conversation piece, it also does keep accurate time, unlike many wood gear clocks. The electronics is truly unique. I've had one running for over a year now on a 5v power supply and I haven't had to adjust the time at all.

The drilling method is explained in the .pdf manual that you can download as Try for no charge. I've found that my machine does not drill very precise diameter holes. The holes must be very precise so that the brass tubing will press fit into the holes. I recently tried drilling a 1/8" hole using the 1/8" cutting bit, and comparing that to a 1/8" hole using my drill bit, both bits in my drill press. The brass tube slips in and out of the cutting bit hole - literally falls out - but is a press fit into the drill bit hole. So that is the reason.

[guido5286]

Oh makes sense. I've seen it on other projects and always wondered why. thanks.

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