Roller compression

[Darthmaul1964]

Ok. I just put in a new board sensor to fix one problems (getting a 20 on sensor check) and now I am getting message that back roller is compressed even though its not. I can push up on both rollers and make the message change for the front one but not the back. But I can feel the back on moving like the front one but does not change the reading. Also noticed that the two traction belts are not in line with each other. See attached image. Is this a problem? I am getting an error on board measurement saying back roller stuck but when you remove board the roller turns freely but according to sensor check, its still compressed.

[Digitalwoodshop]

First... The Sand Paper Belt... It is very common that the belt under the muffler will drift over toward the keypad and ROLL UNDER at the Brass roller... This is hard to SEE.... As you really must tear the belt and remove a strip of belt all the way around to actually see it... I do this all the time... I see silver metal at the brass roller... Just my preferance... IF a belt is rolled under it will raise the board up and you can get problems where the brass roller looses contact with the board... A Bit can Snap if you are doing a cut when it slips... As the X or Length will keep moving until the brass roller encoder reads the correct pulses...

Stuck Roller.... When the rollers are compressed and you have dust blowing around it gets on the Roller Resting Plate when it is Un compressed.. This lets the dust pack like small layers of FILO Dough and when it is thick enough it will prevent the roller from relaxing far enough to let the switch drop into the UN Compressed Slot.

You carefully remove the Keypad side of the machine and loosen the 2 screws holding the plate and blow the sawdust off the plate... You can do this too without loosening the screws too... Just be careful of the Keypad Wires....

And the standard test for the board Sensor is cranked down on a board with white copy paper..... 156 Excelent....

The Roller is important when measuring the board as when the roller becomes un compressed the board sensor starts looking for the edge... Also the board does a rocking motion under the roller to look at X Gear Slop or Lost Motion... At least I believe that is what it is doing .... Checking the X Drive and Board Detector....

I run about 90% 6 inch wide boards... This causes the 6 inches of the belt to stretch and become more broke IN... It make a Taper where the Bit Plate Side of the Belt is Stiffer and not as loose... This causes the Belt to WALK toward the keypad..... Some belts I keep cutting the drifting belt until it gets to 6 inches wide...

Good Luck,

Ever a question and you need a quick answer call..... Number is on the bottom of my website.

AL

EDIT: Just took a closer look at your pictures.... Looks like the belt is moving in the OTHER Direction.... This can be caused by inserting a board in the machine at a slight angle.... Once you crank the head down with a angled board and it does the measurement it will WALK one or 2 belts.... Usually the Belts SNAP..... I would order some belts..... And it can roll over on the far side too.... You might need to follow the belt replacement instructions and just remove the belt looking for a rolled under and put it back on...

This can SNAP the X Gear too... Order them too.... And Cut Motor Brushes for the 250 change out too... Saves on shipping now..

[Darthmaul1964]

Al,
Thanks for the input. I will check the dust issue under the control pad. Thanks for explaining how the machine finds end of the board with the rollers, it makes sense why it would create an error. As for the belts... the one under the muffler has not drifted to the keypad side as you noted. It has gone the other way but has not started to tatter the edge of the belt yet. I will watch it closely to make sure it does not roll under and cause a problem. It does not show well in the photos I attached before but the belts are still in good shape so don't want to have to replace them yet if not needed. Might just try to align them first.
I like this machine. I have had it for several years and don't use it too hard. But as much as I like it, am amazed at how suseptable it is to errors. I find it to be a very picky machine and not the most durable design given that by very nature, it must function in a dirty environment.

[bergerud]

There is a fairly easy way to re center your belts. Search "traction belt trick" and you will find a way which does not require taking the machine apart.

You may get lucky with the stuck roller switch and be able to blow out the dust with compressed air. When you lift the keypad side of the rear roller, you should hear the micro switch click if it is working properly. If not, lift it up and release it while blowing compressed air at the roller axle where the switch is. Do this until you get the clicking back.

I my experience, the dust gets in there from blowing compressed air around while the roller is compressed. Ever since I stopped using compressed air while the board was compressing the roller, I have not had the problem.

[Darthmaul1964]

Hey, that is a great tip for the roller compression issue. I will try to clean that out and make sure I don't use compressed air while the rollers are compressed.

[Darthmaul1964]

[QUOTE=bergerud;171530]There is a fairly easy way to re center your belts. Search "traction belt trick" and you will find a way which does not require taking the machine apart.

When I search "traction belt trick" it tells me that the phrase is too common or blah blah blah. Can't find the trick you are talking about.

[AskBud]

[QUOTE=bergerud;171530]There is a fairly easy way to re center your belts. Search "traction belt trick" and you will find a way which does not require taking the machine apart.

When I search "traction belt trick" it tells me that the phrase is too common or blah blah blah. Can't find the trick you are talking about.This is one thread that will help.
Remember that the hand you use depends upon the direction you wish to move the belt.
AskBud
http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?12560-Sandpaper-Traction-Belt-Adjustment&p=103671#post103671

[bergerud]

Funny, when I searched using the quotation "traction belt trick" I found it yet now that I try again I get the same message as you. Here is is again:

(http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?t=10651&highlight=belt+trick)TIP: The sand paper rollers (X drive conveyor assemblies) need not be removed and put in a vise to re-center the belts. Cut two 3/8" diameter approximately 0.8" long pieces of metal (from old bolts). These two pieces can be wedged between the spring shafts and the edges of the outfeed table (see pictures below). The cam action of lifting the outfeed table pushes on the spring shafts and releases the tension on the sand paper belt. The belt can easily be slid back to center. (Make sure you unroll the edge of the belt if if has rolled up.) The same procedure works on the front and rear belts. (While the belts are loose, you can shake them around and blow out any saw dust.)

(http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?t=10651&highlight=belt+trick)

[Digitalwoodshop]

To add another tip on the roller not compressing.... The other side of the problem... The Screws in the bottom of the machine need to be checked from time to time that go into the end of the smooth rails. I had them vibrate loose and got a Roller Un compressed and a Possible board removal error...

Sounds like you have a PLAN...

Good Job,

AL

[Darthmaul1964]

Stuck Roller.... When the rollers are compressed and you have dust blowing around it gets on the Roller Resting Plate when it is Un compressed.. This lets the dust pack like small layers of FILO Dough and when it is thick enough it will prevent the roller from relaxing far enough to let the switch drop into the UN Compressed Slot.

You carefully remove the Keypad side of the machine and loosen the 2 screws holding the plate and blow the sawdust off the plate... You can do this too without loosening the screws too... Just be careful of the Keypad Wires....

..
Ok. I have been trying to figure out how to remove the keyboard end without a major disassembly. Am I missing something or do I have to remove the bolts on top the vert. bars the head rides on, take off the bottom part of the frame (black base) and plastic top piece (with name on it) just to remove keyboard end to get at Roller Resting plate to remove this layer of saw dust?
I have been trying to just blow air into any hole or slot I can find or feel to try to clear the roller. I have managed to get it decompress but when running sensor check and pushing roller up by hand, it does not seem to react as quickly as the front roller so I think its still a little sticky. Would like to get to it better for a good cleaning but really don't want to have to take that much apart to do it. Any suggestions?

[fwharris]

See if this helps you out with the removal to get to the compression switches..

http://www.carvewright.com/2010CWweb/service/Service_instructions/CarveWright_service_replace_LCD_cable.pdf

[Darthmaul1964]

See if this helps you out with the removal to get to the compression switches..

http://www.carvewright.com/2010CWweb/service/Service_instructions/CarveWright_service_replace_LCD_cable.pdf
Very helpful. When putting the hex bolts back in the rails, will there need to be any calibrations or will the the rails stay aligned during this process?

[bergerud]

If I recall, I just used a stubby Philips screw driver to remove the two screws holding the "pillow block" at the switch end of the roller and then dropped the end of the roller down. This allowed me to get at the switch. It was a long time ago, but is this not all there is to it?

[Darthmaul1964]

Funny, when I searched using the quotation "traction belt trick" I found it yet now that I try again I get the same message as you. Here is is again:

(http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?t=10651&highlight=belt+trick)TIP: The sand paper rollers (X drive conveyor assemblies) need not be removed and put in a vise to re-center the belts. Cut two 3/8" diameter approximately 0.8" long pieces of metal (from old bolts). These two pieces can be wedged between the spring shafts and the edges of the outfeed table (see pictures below). The cam action of lifting the outfeed table pushes on the spring shafts and releases the tension on the sand paper belt. The belt can easily be slid back to center. (Make sure you unroll the edge of the belt if if has rolled up.) The same procedure works on the front and rear belts. (While the belts are loose, you can shake them around and blow out any saw dust.)

(http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?t=10651&highlight=belt+trick)
This was a great tip. Very easy way to center a traction belt. I used a couple pieces of dowl rod instead of bolts. Just easier to cut. Still did the trick. Thanks for the tip.