View Full Version : What is a good tool worth?

Wood Butcher
01-22-2007, 04:29 PM
We all have different levels of experience. Some of us have the carpentry psychosis so bad :D we will gladly drop over $100.00 bucks or more for a 10 inch saw blade because we know that it will last longer, cut finer and with more repeatability. The same holds true with our power tools. A $29.00 special from the department store will put holes in wood the same as the $200.00 contractor model. When the department store model has melted down, stripped gears and the chuck is frozen the contractor grade is still chugging along.

I wonder how long it will be before we see hop up kits for the CW machine?
I guess the deciding factor would be what all of us users want.
I posted my list of modifications, now itís your turn.
What do you want and how important is it to have it on your machine?

01-22-2007, 06:31 PM
I would like to be able to punch in an X and Y position and then tell it to machine a controled depth and width to another point.


01-22-2007, 07:17 PM

Of course you can do that, but it's via the software, at least at this time. You can't direct any cutting carving strictly from the LCD control.

It would appear that you are looking for strictly a CNC machine which operates directly from YOUR computer or one that's far more powerful than what's build into the CarveWright.


01-22-2007, 07:27 PM
I don't believe you can "punch in an X and Y coordinate" into the software. That's one of my top complaints with it. If you can, please show me because it will make my plans alot more accurate.

01-22-2007, 07:37 PM
I don't mind doing it on the computer, just want definet size control.
By the way I run a 2 axes and 3 axes mill at work all the time. Just want to have things give me a better fit, like puzzel pieces.

01-22-2007, 07:44 PM

The CarveWright will cut exactly as you design it in Designer, and you can x, to y position, and Z depth and since the machine measures the wood exactly when you set it loose, that position from Designer is accurately translated into cutter action. You use the power of your own computer to put the Designer information onto your memory card. That's a good as having your computer at the post with the machine directly.


01-22-2007, 08:13 PM
HandTurnedMaple said -> I don't believe you can "punch in an X and Y coordinate" into the software. That's one of my top complaints with it. If you can, please show me because it will make my plans alot more accurate.

You can input desired coordinates into the machine, you just have to adjust your thinking (about how to tell the software how to do it). You stated earlier that you wanted to be able to input starting and ending coordinates and a desired cuttng width. Let's say you want a rectangle 10" long and two inches wide. Starting 1" from both the top and left sides of the board. Your proposed method would require calculating a starting coordinate of (1,1) and an ending coordinate of (11,3), maknig a rectangle 10" long and 2" wide. And then selecting Carve and then the depth.

Or try this: Open Designer, draw a rectangle (just eyball the size). Click on the X-dimension shown (blue number), type 10 into the box that pops up, click on the Y-dimension typing in 2 this time. Now, right click on the upper left vertex (corner point) of the rectangle and select 'Attach' and then move the cursor to the left, a yellow arrow and diminsion will appear. Left click and a box will pop up, type 1 in here and hit enter. Now to the same thing, Attach, but move the mouse up, this time creating an attachment to the top edge.

You have done the same thing in both cases, the sencond way required you to calculate nothing. The effort was about the same in both cases for this simple example. The real benifit comes when you need to move things around later. With the second method you can change an objects size or position without affecting the other. The more complicated you objects the better the second method becomes.

01-22-2007, 09:44 PM
Jeff, I know all about that. But its an unnecessary long way of doing it. When I want to drop a start point at 2.132, 4.094 that's where I want it. I don't want to use up my valuable time adjusting this and adjusting that just to do what I should be able to do as soon as I drop the point.

What we're asking for is a simple thing, and I hope to see in a near future update.

01-22-2007, 09:55 PM
I love this machine, but it's a bit loud. I built an enclosure that seems to work, but if there was a way to cut the noise down, that would be my mod. I understand the motor is turning 20,000RPM and it will be loud. Just a wish...

01-22-2007, 10:33 PM
Hardturned, it does not take longer one way as opposed to the other for the examples you have cited. But to each his own, I know there are several people who would agree with you. I was one until I got to using 3d modeling programs like AutoDesk Inventor. I hope they add that feature in for you, what ever method you find easier is cool. Whay don't you add it to the Designer widh list thread?

01-23-2007, 04:47 PM
Back to Wood Butchers original post in this thread... I would be willing to pay more for something that is better quality. However, I don't know if everyone across the board would. There is another line of thought in the following thread. It seems like people are spread across the board on how and what they want to spend their money on. (The other thread is a bit lengthy, but a variety of opinions are voiced there.)


I have a machine on pre-order from LHR right now. When it comes in, I am planning on buying several additional cutting bits (if in stock) and a few extra carving bits where I won't be down for a few days/weeks when one breaks.