1/8" Carving Bit

[Aaron B]

Mine broke :( Has anyone found a good substitute bit that would work in place of this bit. I have tried some 1/8 router bits but they don't have the cutting length to do cut-outs in 3/4" thick material. I also tried 1/4" router bit but its to wide and it cuts through the tabs that the 1/8" bit would leave.

Just looking for options since I tried to get one from CW and they don't have any and need to get a project done.

Thanks for any suggestions.

[Ron Smith]

Mine broke :( Just looking for options since I tried to get one from CW and they don't have any and need to get a project done.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Aaron ... I'm in the same boat. Mine broke when I was doing a cut out also. I ordered two 1/16" carving and two 1'8" straight cutting bits this past week. I was told the 1/16" were out of stock, but the 1/8" would be shipping right away. I've also looked around for replacements elsewhere and haven't found any. I'll keep looking and let you know if I find any.

Ron

[Aaron B]

I called this morning and ordered one but they were out of stock and got the ol "be here any day now" routine. I know its not there fault but it stinks when you are on a deadline and don't have any other options. From your picture it looks about like mine, maybe they all break in that same spot.

[HandTurnedMaple]

Which render quality were you using Ron?

[Aaron B]

For doing cut outs render quality doesn't matter if I am understanding what you mean. Cut Out is hard coded in, once you tell the software to do cut-out it automatically selects the 1/8" cutting bit and the depth of each cut is automatically programmed.

I wish I could make it do lighter cuts and I know that would take longer but better than breaking bits all the time.

[HandTurnedMaple]

Just looking at that bit, its going to break for all us alot. That's why the 1/16" carving bit is tappered to eliminate (reduce) that pivot point. But if you taper the Cutting bit then you can't get a straight side. Hopefully CW will come up with a solution.

[Aaron B]

Just looking at that bit, its going to break for all us alot. That's why the 1/16" carving bit is tappered to eliminate (reduce) that pivot point. But if you taper the Cutting bit then you can't get a straight side. Hopefully CW will come up with a solution.

I think lighter cuts would be a way for them to help us in not breaking as many, or if they know they are going to break, keep them in STOCK! :D Okay I am done ranting now.

[Dan-Woodman]

Aaron
Your welcome to come down to my house if theres something I can help you finish.
I've been trying to tell everyone not to use that 1/8" bit for cutting 3/4" material, that thin of carbide just won't cut it.
Most of the woodworking catalogs I have , the 1/8' bits only cut 1/2".
You can see the bit flex as you watch it trying to cut.
Maybe in soft material it would be ok.

[Ron Smith]

I think at $29.95 each ... it must be some of that "planned obsolesence" you see every now and then. Just kidding, but I'd like to see a bit that could stand up to the task.

[Aaron B]

I would think it would be easy for them to change the depth of cut in the software. I would much rather the bit take shallow cuts even if it takes longer.

CW peeps, would that be possible.


Aaron
Your welcome to come down to my house if theres something I can help you finish.
I've been trying to tell everyone not to use that 1/8" bit for cutting 3/4" material, that thin of carbide just won't cut it.
Most of the woodworking catalogs I have , the 1/8' bits only cut 1/2".
You can see the bit flex as you watch it trying to cut.
Maybe in soft material it would be ok.

I really appreciate the offer but I did get done before the bit broke will be good enough for now.

[Wood Butcher]

Ron,

You hit the nail on the head. This is what I was looking for in my “What’s a good tool worth?” thread. Would you and the other users pay $40 to $50 bucks for a stronger bit that would last longer?
The guys at CW have done an excellent job of bring to market a machine that will open a whole new realm of creative woodworking possibilities. They have cost limitations to keep the machine affordable for most users. There will be “Power Users” of this machine that will want the “Big Bad Boy” of bits and realize that they will cost more.
Demand will drive the market. The more of us that want them and are willing to pay a premium price for them will determine the availability.
You won’t get what you don’t ask for.

[Hank]

Has anyone checked out:

http://www.carbide.com/catalog/RBits-SS-SC-spiral.cfm

from Amana Tools

Their prices are reasonable. They're solid carbide. The 7/32" dia has a 1" cut depth.

[Aaron B]

Has anyone checked out:

http://www.carbide.com/catalog/RBits-SS-SC-spiral.cfm

from Amana Tools

Their prices are reasonable. They're solid carbide. The 7/32" dia has a 1" cut depth.

I believe it still to big. I might not be for some operations but for cut outs the tabs that it leaves are designed around a 1/8" bit. Even if you put something in larger than a 1/8" bit the program does not know that. So it still runs the same routine as if it had a 1/8" bit in it, so what that causes is the larger bits to not leave any tabs at all because the larger diameter bit cuts into the tab on both sides which in effect leaves no tab at all.

7/32 is only 1/32 smaller than 1/4" and I tried a 1/4" bit and 1/32 smaller wasn't going to help.

[HandTurnedMaple]

Here's an idea I will throw out and you can tell me if it will work (since my machine is "on order"). Can you set up the bit to make progressively deeper router cuts, then instruct it to make a cut-out pass in the end?

[Aaron B]

Here's an idea I will throw out and you can tell me if it will work (since my machine is "on order"). Can you set up the bit to make progressively deeper router cuts, then instruct it to make a cut-out pass in the end?

I think you could do that but it would do a lot of repeating. What i mean is say the first cut is 1/8 then the next cut is 3/8, the bit isn't going to go 3/8" deep so its going to retrace what you did in the first step then step down. The thicker into the wood you go its going to start over like it didn't cut anything so that would mean a bunch of passes. That's the way I take it as working.

I did find a solution but wanted to talk to CW about it first. I tested it only briefly last night and it worked. Tonight I am going to do 5 cut outs on the project it broke for in the first place and if it works and I haven't talked to CW yet I will just go ahead and post it.

[ChrisAlb]

Aaron
Your welcome to come down to my house if theres something I can help you finish.
I've been trying to tell everyone not to use that 1/8" bit for cutting 3/4" material, that thin of carbide just won't cut it.
Most of the woodworking catalogs I have , the 1/8' bits only cut 1/2".
You can see the bit flex as you watch it trying to cut.
Maybe in soft material it would be ok.

I would have to disagree with that. I use the 1/8" bit for cutting 3/4" and 1" thick hardwood all the time. I don't know, maybe it's gets weaker over time? But I've had no problems at all. Never broke a bit yet (knocking on wood). Regardless of the thickness or hardness of the wood, it still only cuts an 1/8" deep per pass. I just finished a cut out in Teak at 1" thick with no trouble. I may be wrong but you'd be hard pressed to find a harder wood than that.

If so many folks are breaking bits, I'd have to assume (and yes I HATE saying it) perhaps it's "some" sort of user error? Just guessing here.

[HighTechOkie]

I would have to disagree with that. I use the 1/8" bit for cutting 3/4" and 1" thick hardwood all the time. I don't know, maybe it's gets weaker over time? But I've had no problems at all. Never broke a bit yet (knocking on wood). Regardless of the thickness or hardness of the wood, it still only cuts an 1/8" deep per pass. I just finished a cut out in Teak at 1" thick with no trouble. I may be wrong but you'd be hard pressed to find a harder wood than that.

If so many folks are breaking bits, I'd have to assume (and yes I HATE saying it) perhaps it's "some" sort of user error? Just guessing here.

I'm not sure what your point was in resurrecting a post that is almost a year old. You trying to improve your post count or just start an argument?

Either way, an 1/8" carbide tool can only make a 1/2" depth of cut max in one pass. Since the CW/CC makes multiple passes, each approximately 1/4" deep, after 4 passes, you get your 1" cut. That lil' 1/8" bit would snap like a toothpick if you buried 1" deep in your precious teak all at once.

Rob

[ChrisAlb]

I'm not sure what your point was in resurrecting a post that is almost a year old. You trying to improve your post count or just start an argument?

Either way, an 1/8" carbide tool can only make a 1/2" depth of cut max in one pass. Since the CW/CC makes multiple passes, each approximately 1/4" deep, after 4 passes, you get your 1" cut. That lil' 1/8" bit would snap like a toothpick if you buried 1" deep in your precious teak all at once.

Rob

Rob for one thing I'm sorry I didn't notice how old the post was. I was doing some some searching and came across it. Secondly I am in NO way trying to start an argument and thirdly, why on earth would you want to BURY the bit all at once? In the future however, I'd appreciate it if when YOU want to flame me and my "precious" teak, you PM me instead. Relax a little huh? Simply a misunderstanding on my part.

[Dirtydan]

I think I've read everyone's post on this subject, so if you have already read this sorry...

You can get both the 1/16 Carving and 1/8 Cutting bits at Sears and Woodcrafters... Some stores have them in stock, but you can also order online...at least from Sears... I think both come with the adapter all ready installed.. A little $$$$$, but if you have a project you have to get out, that's an option.

[Dan-Woodman]

Just another good reason not to use the 1/8" bit for cutting something is $40.00 verses
.75 cents for a very high quality scrollsaw blade that also cuts much smoother than that spiral endmill. Just my 2 cents.
later Daniel

[Router-Jim]

I am curious if the software in Jan 2007 allowed the bit to attempt to cut through in one pass? Perhaps in later updates this was changed to 1/8" per pass as that's what my machine does and I've never broken a bit. (knocks on wood)

[Dirtydan]

Dan,

That's OK for those of you who are good with a scrollsaw... I for one, am not... Don't have the touch...for sure...

I use cut-path on about 75% of my carvings.... Never had a bit break, knock on wood... LOL...


Just another good reason not to use the 1/8" bit for cutting something is $40.00 verses
.75 cents for a very high quality scrollsaw blade that also cuts much smoother than that spiral endmill. Just my 2 cents.
later Daniel

[highway]

I just opened my CW so no experience, but forth try on a vector route, the machine plunged the 1/8 bit a good 3/8 and broke it off. First three tries were successfull. Don't know what went wrong.
Fred

[hotpop]

I'm on my fourth 1/8" cutting bit. I lost two of them before I discovered a loose z-truck roller allowing the tip to oscillate. I busted one yesterday because I was using a cut path to cut 3" circles in 3/4" oak. Two of the three tabs on the final pass gave way and pinched the cutter.

The 1/8" cutter only has about a 1/16" web by 1" long. Thats not a very good length to width ratio. A thicker cutter probably would not have broken.

If CW could give us an option for a longer tab that would be great and/or have a 3/16" or 1/4" cutting tool option for cut paths I think it would be really great.