Bits??

[KeystoneChuck]

Do I have to buy the bits from CW or can I buy locally. I am getting mixed responses to this. A currently operator says you can buy regular "off the shelf" bits another says I must buy the bits through CW or a dealer because they are special. I just bought a Model C with the carvetight and wanted to possible buy the 60 or 90 degree V carve bits to go along with the Centerline text software. If the answer is "off the shelf bits" are there certin features/lengths you guys recommend or don't recommend. I see CW had bit collets/adapters with a spacer ring, I think it was a set of 5 or 10. Is that for regular bit application? Any help would be appreciated.

[jaroot]

Well here I go getting myself in trouble again. As far as the carving & cutting bits are concerned I'd go with the LHR bits, though sometimes they are available through Amazon but I'm pretty sure they still come from LHR. As for the other bits I've not had any problems with the of the shelf bits but make sure that you understand the geometry of the bit that you are using and/or substituting.

That being said if you can support the manufacture of the machine and there by allowing them to continue to support and improve our machine so much the better.

[AskBud]

Do I have to buy the bits from CW or can I buy locally. I am getting mixed responses to this. A currently operator says you can buy regular "off the shelf" bits another says I must buy the bits through CW or a dealer because they are special. I just bought a Model C with the CarveTight and wanted to possible buy the 60 or 90 degree V carve bits to go along with the Centerline text software. If the answer is "off the shelf bits" are there certain features/lengths you guys recommend or don't recommend. I see CW had bit collets/adapters with a spacer ring, I think it was a set of 5 or 10. Is that for regular bit application? Any help would be appreciated.
It is best to purchase the Carving and cutting bit, for the "C" carve Tight chuck from LHR, as they come with a pressed on sleeve (which LHR engineers deem necessary for these carbide shank bits).

All bits you buy should have a carbide cutting surface. Your manual has a section that shows each bit (albeit mounted in a quick change adapter). You can get a good idea of the overall length of the bit from those pictures. It would be best to avoid using bits with longer shanks, as they may not allow the cutting clearance needed (this may be where some folks get bit errors).

The 1/4 inch shank bit require a split collet, sold by LHR (I have several). You slip them on each bit as needed. the spacer ring is simply a very short piece of 1/4 ID plastic tube, which goes on the shank prior the placing the collet (in this case) and usually pushed very near the bit head. This accomplishes two functions. First, it assures that the bit head is not too close to the chuck. Second, it assures that the bit is mounted the same prior and during the carve. I bought my first packets of spacers from LHR, but now know the size to cut my own tubing.

Since the 1/2 inch shank bits fit directly in the chuck, the spacers are almost a "must".
AskBud

[DocWheeler]

Primary concern is the high-speed of the CW as I recall; so carbide is required, 23,000 RPM, and good balance and close tollerances.
Damn, I'm a slow typer!

[liquidguitars]

Since the 1/2 inch shank bits fit directly in the chuck, the spacers are almost a "must".


Quick note, the depth spacers are not relay needed for the bits once you learn how to run the unit. For that mater advanced users should know that only one bit is needed during the index setup as long as you use continue the z depths need not match.


they come with a pressed on sleeve

I love them, I can even swap bits from uint to unit when i need a sharp bit and still keep my corect locations during a carve.