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AskBud
01-04-2012, 11:42 PM
I'm starting to try my hand at making Rotary Patterns.
I've had the jig since it was introduced, but have not used it until today. I wanted to scan my own model from the start. I have some ideas for chess pieces as beginning projects. I'll scan the models, apply to a MPC and prove they work well before I offer any patterns or MPCs. I'm finding little secrets that cause problems. I'll resolve them as I go along.

So far, I've scanned the knight shown below and laid out the MPC. My first carve blew up half way through (saw dust jamb, I think). There is no forgiveness! I've got to build Ed's dust box (it fits in the rear, as the dowel turns that way rather than toward the front).

I've scanned the King, Queen, and Bishop, but did not like the bulges from the hot glue over run. So. I'll trim the glue and re scan (It's about a 6 hour scan).

Hopefully, in a few days, I'll have a good product!
AskBud
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Just for kicks, before you ask! The tape on the scanning probe is my way to extend the life of the probe. The wire breaks down where it leaves the probe (from all the movement). Rolling it back to the chuck, and securing it there negates that particular problem. The other weak spot, for the probe, is the mini connector at the end of the probe and extension wire. It needs a touch of WD-40 before the start of each day. Perhaps, some day, LHR will resolve these two issues (they have a ticket on the need to change to a single cord, and address the exit point problem at the probe. In the mean time, be advised that you may get a second life from your probe, with a little tape (How is your stock Al?).
AskBud

LittleRedWoodshop
01-05-2012, 12:11 AM
Now that is an awesome idea ....

Kenm810
01-05-2012, 07:59 AM
I like It, -- I have a couple of Chess Sets made of plastic, plus a Lewis Set like the photo below,
that are made of some kind of man made marble resin, that I would like to to scan and carve.
Thanks for sharing you idea and info, please post more photos as you progress.

SteveEJ
01-05-2012, 08:18 AM
Bud,
In the first picture the eyes are inset, in the second they are raised. Is this an illusion or is that correct? It has been a long night here so it could be my eyes!

Looks good! I am working on some different stuff for the rotary jig as well. As soon as I get it finished I will post it.

AskBud
01-05-2012, 10:06 AM
Bud,
In the first picture the eyes are inset, in the second they are raised. Is this an illusion or is that correct? It has been a long night here so it could be my eyes!

Looks good! I am working on some different stuff for the rotary jig as well. As soon as I get it finished I will post it.Yes, it is an illusion. The snap of the MPC can fool you, unless you move you angle of view left or right. It's like the picture of the old/young lady that you came across from time to time.
AskBud

AskBud
01-05-2012, 10:11 AM
I like It, -- I have a couple of Chess Sets made of plastic, plus a Lewis Set like the photo below,
that are made of some kind of man made marble resin, that I would like to to scan and carve.
Thanks for sharing you idea and info, please post more photos as you progress.I think I'll design my own Knight and Pawns, rather than trying to use the Lewis pieces (the knight is too wide, perhaps just a horse head).
AskBud

SteveEJ
01-05-2012, 10:13 AM
OK.. You have me looking for a Old/Young lady now! I hate it when that happens!! :mrgreen:

edzbaker
01-05-2012, 12:03 PM
Here she is... look from the top then the bottom.

AskBud
01-05-2012, 12:05 PM
OK!
I've finished the Rotary Knight scan and carve (1/5/2012).
First I'll point out things I've learned.
1) When you bring the scan in to Pattern editor, remove the bright green border as it will cause an unwanted plunge to the bottom depth of the carve.
2) Before you bring the pattern on to the board, be sure to un check the Scaling box at the bottom of the library list.
3) I left the depth alone.
4) I made my design board slightly less than my pattern width. In my case the pattern was 7.14 and I set the board to 6.898 (I used 6.9, but it went the the lower number).
5) I feel that the use of the Optimal carve is a must for the rotary carve. It takes more time but avoids taking too big of a bite out of the stock, which could make it rotate out of place (OOPs, that is why my first test happened).
6) If you feel that your dowel has too much play, on the Y-axis, use a flat washer the remove that play. We want it free to roll, but not loose enough to move left & right.
7) Since I have not made Ed's vacuum box, and I do have a top mounted vacuum head, I redirected the muffler in to the rear of the jig. I pointed the flow at the non-keyboard side. That kept me from having a sawdust build-up at the worst spot. I never stopped the unit, but I did use another air source every once in a while to blow the area.

I've, also, talked with Ed about limiting the depth of his pre-drilled holes to 1 inch. For the type of carve lay-out, I do not want a hole in the end of my carved item.
AskBud
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bergerud
01-05-2012, 12:12 PM
Looks pretty good but it looks like the depth was not right. The carved bishop looks smaller than the scanned one. Any idea why?

AskBud
01-05-2012, 12:43 PM
Looks pretty good but it looks like the depth was not right. The carved bishop looks smaller than the scanned one. Any idea why?You're correct! I probably should have reduced the depth rather than accepting it "as is". However, on the other hand perhaps I should raise the height from 100 to 990 or some of both.
It was just my choice for this test.
AskBud

AskBud
01-07-2012, 01:04 AM
The Old English - Davis chess pieces are posing some problems. I re scanned just the King and Queen Friday morning and have carved it twice at two different depths. The first was at .600. The original detail, on the actual pieces, was/is not the best contrast. My first run, at .600 netted a narrow carve, about half the bulk of the original. The 2nd, at .300 gave me back the bulk but washed out the detail. I'm using 990 on all the heights during my tests. Saturday, I'll run at 500 and see how that test works out.

From what I've seen so far, I'm wondering if it might be best to scan larger models to compensate for the loss in size in transition. My Saturday test may verify my thinking. I know how the manage larger dowel in the existing jig, and may try that aspect after I run this next test.
AskBud

bergerud
01-07-2012, 01:18 PM
I do not know what the rotary jig procedure actually is. I assume the procedure touches the bit on the bottom board and not the dowel.

If it touches on the board and then you install the jig and re clamp, the depth of the dowel below the head may be different than the depth the board was. The rubber compression rollers may compress more on the jig as they did on the board, the dowel may not be exactly flush with the top of the jig, and so on.

There should be no reason why the Carvewright should not be able to scan and duplicate those chess pieces. You may need to find a way to reproduce the same clamping depth. As a test and possible procedure, push the bit by hand down to the board before you insert the jig. Now as you clamp down the jig, does the bit touch the dowel? I'll bet that the bit touches the dowel and then gets pushed up by the difference you have experienced.

AskBud
01-07-2012, 01:32 PM
I do not know what the rotary jig procedure actually is. I assume the procedure touches the bit on the bottom board and not the dowel.

If it touches on the board and then you install the jig and re clamp, the depth of the dowel below the head may be different than the depth the board was. The rubber compression rollers may compress more on the jig as they did on the board, the dowel may not be exactly flush with the top of the jig, and so on.

There should be no reason why the Carvewright should not be able to scan and duplicate those chess pieces. You may need to find a way to reproduce the same clamping depth. As a test and possible procedure, push the bit by hand down to the board before you insert the jig. Now as you clamp down the jig, does the bit touch the dowel? I'll bet that the bit touches the dowel and then gets pushed up by the difference you have experienced.Once you obtain the Rotary jig, you will understand the the process.
The bit touch-down is consistant with the edge of the dowel. My post #12 was simply a record of using the various test depths to give myself, and others, some insight on how the how to determing the actual depth you may wish to use when carving the dowel.
I'll repeat an old Tool Makers adage for a lathe type cut: "The depth you use, twice you'll lose!"

AskBud
01-12-2012, 11:31 AM
I'm finding that I can scan larger rotary items by making 3 inch discs and mounting my model to them. Once scanned, I can apply the pattern to 2 inch or larger dowel. Modification of the rotary jig can be done without changing the integrity of the product.

Here is a photo of my Roman Senator testing.
AskBud50347

easybuilt
01-12-2012, 11:34 AM
That came out great!
Thanks

AskBud
01-23-2012, 07:22 PM
Here are two more Rotary patterns (Knight and Queen) that will be in the Pattern Depot soon.
AskBud
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James RS
01-24-2012, 05:42 PM
Nice work Bud

AskBud
01-24-2012, 06:49 PM
This rotary scan may end up being a Bishop or just a tower, in the Pattern Depot, when I finish my current test carve.
AskBud
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b.sumner47
01-24-2012, 08:31 PM
Outstanding Bud ! Love the pateena.


Capt Barry

CarverJerry
01-25-2012, 06:00 PM
Way to go Bud, you seem to be catching on to this rotary carving thing. Thanks for sharing them with us.

James RS
01-26-2012, 04:50 PM
This rotary scan may end up being a Bishop or just a tower, in the Pattern Depot, when I finish my current test carve.
AskBud
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Great job, Bud. Question when you scan those how long is it taking and is there different levels of scanning?
I want to get the Rotary Jig and a scanner, but alas the budget won't let me yet.

AskBud
01-26-2012, 05:23 PM
Great job, Bud. Question when you scan those how long is it taking and is there different levels of scanning?
I want to get the Rotary Jig and a scanner, but alas the budget won't let me yet.When you buy the probe, you get Pattern Editor as well. That combination will give you so much added ability as you work with new items you scan or import (not the patterns made by others).

Scanning with the probe will take longer than the carve you will make from the scan. The length of time will depend upon the size being scanned. I always use the "BEST" setting as I scan. You will get an estimated time as you select that option. I'm currently doing a scan 4 by 8, which will take about 4 hours and 20 minutes. I've done some scans which took over 20 hours.

The rotary jig is super, if and when you decide to work with that type of carve. It's not rocket science, but you have to understand the special concepts. You will also be advised to make a dust box like the one Ed Baker has spoken of. The chips and dust will pile up under the dowel, if there is no collector.

Scanning on the jig requires some forethought, so the piece stay stable in the jig.
AskBud

AskBud
03-06-2012, 10:57 PM
Here is the rotary scan I'm working on. I'll do one more proof on Wednesday 3/7/2012, before I submit it to the Pattern depot.
AskBud
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fwharris
03-07-2012, 10:25 AM
Looks like a good one Bud!!!

eelamb
03-07-2012, 10:53 AM
Bud, that will be a nice rotary pattern.

AskBud
03-10-2012, 09:57 PM
Here is the Rotary pattern I tested 3/10/2012. My model is in the center. The pattern will be in the store 3/12/2012.
The standary pattern of the same piece is in the store titled as "Jesus Suffered for Us".
AskBud
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easybuilt
03-10-2012, 10:36 PM
Nice carve Bud!! I really like your detail.

fwharris
03-10-2012, 11:16 PM
Bud,

Good looking pattern! Does any of the pattern wrap around to the back of the round?

AskBud
03-10-2012, 11:23 PM
Bud,

Good looking pattern! Does any of the pattern wrap around to the back of the round?My patterns begin as solid models, which I mount in the rotary jig and scan.
Yes, they cover 360 degrees of the stock, and I test each one prior to offering them in the store.
AskBud

fwharris
03-11-2012, 12:17 PM
Thanks Bud for the info. I figured you did but could not tell for sure from the pictures. Next one give a 360 view if you can and keep up the great work!!

AskBud
05-30-2012, 10:59 PM
For those that have purchased Ed's Rotary Jig, I've engineered a 3rd Rail.

This rail moves to allow various shorter lengths of dowel stock to be carved without having to glue up pieces to the standard 14 inch length. It also allows for better control of items you might scan (without doing massive glue-ups).

The 971 MB video presentation I've made shows how this is accomplished by the user. I offer this lesson as my gift to you. I would rather not produce these 3rd Rails. I feel they are easy to make and the parts cost is minimal for this DIY project.

I used two T-nuts and two Knobs. The knobs were a bear to locate (for me). I ended up finding them at Grainger's. They are called: Three Prong Knob, 1-1/8,1/4-20x1-1/2 PS. The part number is: 6AXG6.
AskBud
http://www2.wcoil.com/~nharbison/CW-3rd Rail for Eds Rotary Jig.zip

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ladjr
05-31-2012, 02:13 AM
Bud

Since I can't work on my machine tonight, I down loaded to lesson on the 3rd rail. That is very interesting. Question why not simply put a slot in the two end boards that Ed has and then we can slide it back and forth.
I hope you take this as a question, because I appreciate everything you do for the forum.

Thanks Great job.

Leo

AskBud
05-31-2012, 04:53 AM
Bud

Since I can't work on my machine tonight, I down loaded to lesson on the 3rd rail. That is very interesting. Question why not simply put a slot in the two end boards that Ed has and then we can slide it back and forth.
I hope you take this as a question, because I appreciate everything you do for the forum.

Thanks Great job.

LeoLeo,
For the benefit of those that do not have this Rotary Jig, allow me to state the following. The ends of the Rotary jig are open. Look again at the photo on the LHR ad. This is where the two pieces of 3/4 stock is placed for the Knob to travel between (and compress against). The 3rd Rail spans the length of the jig, and moves from the keyboard to the non-keyboard rails. This 3rd Rail is removed when using the standard 14" dowel, and only in place as you carve or scan shorter pieces. If, and when, you purchase a jig from Ed, will you fully understand the concept.

I understand your question. I did consider the idea of securing the 3rd Rail from the top of the jig, but needed something that eliminated a need for another loose tool to get mis-placed. This concept also further limited the diameter of stock I could handle as well. I wanted the knobs as my compression tools. I also wanted to make the DIY project easier for the end user, avoiding compromising Ed's original jig.

With this 3rd rail offering, like many ideas and patents, my final 3rd Rail product comes after engineering something that meets our need to avoid waste and improve quality. It's my way of better being able to use all those cut-off pieces of dowel or to scan short models.
AskBud

papawbummie
08-30-2012, 08:36 AM
Ed are your rotary patterns located as rotary patterns in a special file or are they in the regular depot Thanks Bert

edzbaker
08-31-2012, 07:21 AM
Bert, "I" don't offer patterns for the Rotary Jig. In my home business, (Cane Making) I use the regular patterns and the Rotary Jig wraps them around the wood that I am carving. I do believe that "Ask Bud" has some Rotary Jig patterns, including chess pieces, in the pattern depot. And, possibly some others may have patterns made especially for the Rotary jig.

Smoken D
08-31-2012, 08:16 AM
Here is some of the patterns I located

http://store.carvewright.com/search.php?mode=search&page=1

papawbummie
09-01-2012, 09:04 PM
Bud ,Do you have a duck call pattern for the rotary jig?. Thanks Bert

AskBud
09-01-2012, 09:10 PM
Bud ,Do you have a duck call pattern for the rotary jig?. Thanks BertSorry Bert,
I have none, nor have i seen one offered.
AskBud

eelamb
09-01-2012, 09:52 PM
Bert how about this one. First image is what it will look like after carving. Second is what it looks like in designer.
Took me about 5 minutes to make this one. Longer to remember how to make the rotary pattern from the file.

easybuilt
09-01-2012, 10:32 PM
Very nice job Eddie!

ladjr
09-01-2012, 11:22 PM
Thanks for the duck call Eddie, But not being a hunter I have to ask. Don't you blow a duck call. where does the air go in and come out.

eelamb
09-02-2012, 06:25 AM
Leo that part is your problem to drill and insert the reed. Bert asked for a duck call and I posted one. You will have a hard time blowing on this one.
Make this one and give it as a gag gift to a hunter.

Smoken D
09-02-2012, 08:27 AM
I was kinda expecting a carving of a Duck talking on a cell phone with the caption, "Quack, Quack, Quack"! On the bottom of the call carved, "Duck Call". At least something like that:roll:

edzbaker
09-02-2012, 09:06 AM
A Very Good Pattern Eddie,
One could take Eddies pattern and add some other patterns to personalize it, Even like Smoken was saying..
see my example..

eelamb
09-02-2012, 11:02 AM
Thanks Ed, tom, smoken D and Leo. I keep forgetting to tell them something like this is the base. Add your own patterns to it to enhance it the way you like.

Edit: added site info:
On my site under patterns is a category called in the round, where I have a few patterns there. Now I need to make a category for the shared in the round.

ladjr
09-02-2012, 12:14 PM
Thanks Eddie. Now I understand. I never realize they had a reed.

papawbummie
09-02-2012, 08:29 PM
Thanks a bunch. That is what i was looking for Thanks again ,Bert

eelamb
09-02-2012, 09:19 PM
Leo, I am not a hunter either, but knew about the reed, because my wife once worked for outland sports, where they made all sorts of calls.

Bert you are welcome.

sjwilson57
11-20-2012, 09:12 PM
Please forgive my newness, but where can I purchase the Rotary Jig?


Steve
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chief2007
11-20-2012, 09:24 PM
Here's the link where you can buy it

http://store.carvewright.com/product.php?productid=22676&cat=304&page=1

sjwilson57
11-20-2012, 10:05 PM
Thanks Chief. I'm thinking you are in the Airforce? I served from 1976 to 1980.

Thanks for the Service to our Country.

Steve

chief2007
11-21-2012, 03:21 AM
Steve

Thank you as well for your Service. Actually I served in the Army and Air Force. Army from 1978 -1984, Air Force from 1984 - 2011. Retired CMSgt.

Steve aka "Chief"

bjbethke
11-21-2012, 08:45 AM
Thanks for the duck call Eddie, But not being a hunter I have to ask. Don't you blow a duck call. where does the air go in and come out.

You can buy the Reeds for Duck Calls, or you can make them. I have a PDF I like to use.

eelamb
12-13-2012, 06:47 AM
Making a rotary jig pattern has just gotten easier. Well it has been easier for some time. Go over and watch the video here http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?22047-3d-suite-software, post #7. The rail sweep, now using that concept make yourself a rotary jig pattern by creating a line 6.75" in length. Click on sweep rounded, create your profile, click ok. You now have a pattern for your rotary jig. Save the pattern then follow ED's instruction for the jig and carve the pattern on the rotary jig. Add other patterns, text to your new pattern and you will be on a roll. Here is a quick lighthouse profile you can make in minutes.

eelamb
12-13-2012, 03:02 PM
As another example here is the duck call I made a few post back, but this one was done using the rail sweep (sweep rounded, with line segment)
First image is done in designer, second image was one I created some time back, and third image is what it would look like carved.

fwharris
12-13-2012, 09:33 PM
Thanks Eddie! Had not put much thought into "on the round" and the new tools. Sounds like an easy route for many possibilities maybe..

Fireman Phil
12-19-2012, 11:12 AM
Here's the link where you can buy it

http://store.carvewright.com/product.php?productid=22676&cat=304&page=1

I am interested in purchasing Ed's jig but I can't find it. The link above says it is an unavailable product.

fwharris
12-19-2012, 11:16 AM
I saw Ed did not have it listed on the store any more.. You might have to private message him as I am sure he is still making it and selling..

Fireman Phil
12-19-2012, 11:29 AM
Will do, thank you!

eelamb
12-19-2012, 11:32 AM
Floyd is right Ed did not renew his contract with LHR. You will need to contact him through PM.

papawbummie
03-03-2013, 09:17 PM
Ed how do you get the display the way the rotary pattern looks like after it is carved (like the third image). Also does the two rail sweep carve in the round I am thinking about the software and the two rail sweep looks easier for me Thanks Bert

eelamb
03-03-2013, 09:24 PM
Bert you can not using the 3d suite. That came from the Moi3d, after importing into designer.
Designer will only give you the first two images. It all comes down to knowing what the profile will look like from doing many lathe profile, and 3d modeling.

papawbummie
03-06-2013, 09:06 AM
Thanks for the info Eddie. I am trying out the software before i buy it. Was wondering on the sweep window what does the red line and green line represent. Also can the bottom window grid be sized or does it default to its own.Other than the great video ,can"t find any written doc.
Does any thing change when using full version after Demo Version? Thanks again Bert

eelamb
03-06-2013, 10:27 AM
Michael has some videos with this information in it. As for docs, none that I know of, and to demo to full version, I do not own the software, but believe it is the same. Full will allow you to save the files.
Look for carvewright 3d suite on youtube for other videos.

For sizing, the windows can not be sized, but you can zoom in using the wheel on the mouse.