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Corvus Instruments
12-12-2011, 08:54 PM
Hi there,
Leo Pedersen here with my brand new CarveWright machine trying to learn how to cut guitar fretboards with it.

I've searched extensively through the forum trying to learn how to cut fret slots.

I understand the importance of sleds, and I see that LiquidGuitars just scores his fretslots on the CarveWright but I'm dying to know: with what kind of bit?

Can the scoring be done with the regular carving bits? Or does it require special 0.02" bits? I've found such bits online but can't find how to adapt their 1/8" shank to my CarveTight system.


Any help would be sincerely appreciated!

cheers :)

bergerud
12-12-2011, 10:42 PM
I believe the 1/16" cutting bit has a 1/8" shank and comes with a pressed on sleeve to make it 1/4". You could press off this sleeve and use it on any other 1/8" carbide shank. Just an idea. Also check out whether the Rock has adapters that can be used with the CT.

lynnfrwd
12-12-2011, 11:07 PM
It's a 1/4" when we get it. Just takes 1/4" split collet.


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bergerud
12-12-2011, 11:22 PM
My point was that the 1/16" cutting bit is really solid carbide bit with a 1/8" shank. It has a 1/4" steel sleeve pressed on it. This steel sleeve can be pressed off and used on any 1/8" shank carbide bit. Anyone interested can see the bit and sleeve at the store:

http://store.carvewright.com/product.php?productid=18825&cat=291&page=1

lynnfrwd
12-13-2011, 06:59 AM
I don't think you can press it off, but i guess it's worth a try.

Robert D bought one last week and we both discovered they don't look like that anymore. They now look more like they were "dipped" in steel. I'll try to get a photo later today.


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liquidguitars
12-13-2011, 09:47 AM
I understand the importance of sleds, and I see that LiquidGuitars just scores his fret slots on the CarveWright but I'm dying to know: with what kind of bit?



I use a 1/8 carbide scribe bit sold at Sears works well... you can also use the 1/16" ball nose carving bit, I follow up with the StewMac .022 Japanese saw (http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_supplies/Saws_and_slots/Japanese_Fret_Saw_System.html)....

On a side note now the conform vector is a reality you will be able to make curved slots Thanks to LHR it's a win win !!! Hope this helps a bit....
49738

fun with slots:

49740

rcdages
12-13-2011, 11:33 AM
The CarveWright 1/16” Cutting Bit, which allows more intricate cut outs through thinner stock – even 1/4” material. 0.0625in Tip 3 Flute Straight Carbide end mill, 0.313in EFL.

The 1/16" cutting Bit comes with a pressed adapter that allows it to be used in the 1/4" Split Collect for the CarveTight Spindle System, or a Quick Change bit adaptor

http://store.carvewright.com/product...cat=291&page=1 (http://store.carvewright.com/product.php?productid=18825&cat=291&page=1)

The above is from the store page.

If you were to have a pressed on adapter there would be no need to use a split collect. If the pressed adapter was not on the bit then you would need to us the split collect.

I believe the wording along with a new photo of the bit would help.

Am I collect in this statement Connie?

Corvus Instruments
12-13-2011, 11:55 AM
Thanks so much for your reply LG :)

So am I understanding correctly that in order to use 1/8" bits you must have a CarveWright without the CarveTight on it?

And since I have the CarveTight on my machine I'll have to use the 1/16" ball nose bit as you suggested?

I have the right StewMac saw to follow up with, my main issue is that I want to experiment with some non-standard fret placements (fanned-frets & other stuff) that require high accuracy and for which the standard fretting templates won't work.


Beautiful work by the way! I particularly love your electric violin and mandolin builds - super nice!

cheers,
Leo


I use a 1/8 carbide scribe bit sold at Sears works well... you can also use the 1/16" ball nose carving bit, I follow up with the StewMac .022 Japanese saw (http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_supplies/Saws_and_slots/Japanese_Fret_Saw_System.html)....

On a side note now the conform vector is a reality you will be able to make curved slots Thanks to LHR it's a win win !!! Hope this helps a bit....
49738

fun with slots:

49740

liquidguitars
12-13-2011, 12:18 PM
Thank you...

Frist you will need the Rock or the Carvetight to make guitars without it would be like going to hell wihtout a round trip ticket.

No issue for me using a 1/8" to 1/2" sleave to run the bits so you can test all of them if your tricky try the 1/16" carving at very low cut this will make a back space like a file would. Ching ching ching what that noise... Hmmm MONEY!


BTW I did the fan fret layout and it looks like it would be a winner...

lynnfrwd
12-13-2011, 12:31 PM
I have been corrected. The old style 1/16" cutting bit came to us with a hard pressed adapter that made them 1/4" shank with the outer part being steel. These used just the 1/4" split collet.

The new style 1/16" cutting comes with a full 1/4" shank of all carbide. They also use the 1/4" split collet. I asked why you could use the 1/4" split collet on these new carbide bits, but not the larger carving & cutting carbide bits. The reason is because the bit is so much smaller, it doesn't have the same amount of torque on it as the larger carbide bits do, therefore it is not as susceptible to slippage.

Here is a photo of the new 1/16" cutting bits:
49741

liquidguitars
12-13-2011, 12:39 PM
Just so we are clear- I do not use the 1/16" cutting bit "mill" for my guitars, but the 1/16" carving bit " ballnose" gives me a nice undercut in the slot for my guitars and violin frets respectfully.

Not to say that one could not try the 1/16" mill and smaller V bits will work but i would recommend getting the Conform vector (http://www.carvewright.com/2010CWweb/products/software/cwconform.php)plug in from LHR.

LG

Corvus Instruments
12-13-2011, 12:45 PM
Yes that makes sense that only the 1/16" carving bit would work and not the flat-ended cutting bit. Would you recommend something like a 0.02" depth of cut?


Off topic: I've been playing a fanned-fret electric guitar for the last 9 years and the ergonomic advantage is fantastic. I'd highly recommend them to anyone :)
I'm now getting the tools and training together to build my own.

liquidguitars
12-13-2011, 01:00 PM
Would you recommend something like a 0.02" depth of cut?



You will notice a relationship of the compound radius needs to be addressed, do you have Conform V software?

Corvus Instruments
12-13-2011, 01:23 PM
Oh I should have mentioned that I'm just working on a completely flat classical guitar style of fretboard right now.

I don't have Conform V and don't even know what it is. I'm guessing you're using it to deal with cutting fret slots on a radius fretboard?

liquidguitars
12-13-2011, 01:47 PM
yes i am radius but use flat also...



Conform vector (http://www.carvewright.com/2010CWweb/products/software/cwconform.php)plug in from LHR 50.00 bucks.

Corvus Instruments
12-13-2011, 02:00 PM
Ah ok it's plug-in for Designer. I should use it when I'm doing a radius fretboard right?

Again beautiful work LG - nice design & execution. It's really exciting to see your work and what this little machine can be used for.

I'm just experimenting in Designer now with adjusting the depth of cut with the 1/16th" ballnose. If the graphic representation in Designer is accurate it looks like I need a smaller depth of cut than I thought, like 0.01" or less. Does that sound reasonable to you LG?


Thanks for all your help and inspiration :)

Leo

bee crazy
12-13-2011, 07:32 PM
LQ, would you have a youtube of your set up carving a neck? I make dulcimers and am having ideas just reading these threads.
Thanks
Steve

liquidguitars
12-14-2011, 01:59 AM
Here is a old video I made a few years ago that shows the fender neck jig...


http://youtu.be/DezYs_eZ9_4