Will the Cw machine have trouble moving a 8' board back and forth

[myshop1044]

I have a request to do a 18" carving in the middle of a 4" thick x 8" wide x 8' long board.
With support rollers on each side will the CW be able to handle the weight of the board?
It will be Cypress. What is the weight limit, if any, for the machine.

any help would be great

Perry
Myshop1044

[lynnfrwd]

20lbs.


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[gashawk]

I've built a scan sled 8' long, but haven't got to try it. I was going to support the sled with two supports on the ends and let the CarveWright ride the sled. Any thoughts?

[liquidguitars]

18" carving in the middle of a 4" thick x 8" wide x 8' long board.


I also have two Guys or Girls to hold the board up a little " like a table saw backer" as it measured just to make sure it does not tip.


Any thoughts?

One thing is to point the crown down so the AUX roller makes a tad more contact but as long as it measures it should work... like the large sled...

[gashawk]

I've got a control panel and hand crank ordered now! HAHA!

[cnsranch]

I've done 3/4"x6"x96" before.

Machine can handle the weight up to 20 #, problem is that a long board will sag dramatically as the board's being measured. I got nothing but errors during the measuring process until I supported each end with auxiliary rollers.

Place them about 3' from each end of the machine, make sure they're set level to the outfeed rollers, but watch closely as the board comes into contact with the roller - the board will likely have sagged and may not feed onto the aux. roller properly. Just give it a little help to get on the roller, and you'll be fine.

One thing to make sure you're good to go - set it all up, and simply ask the machine to measure the board - if it hangs, you know you've got some more work to do.

[Digitalwoodshop]

I would do the math and place on end... Moving that weight TWICE to place on center is asking for trouble..... And I would end the board length 4 inches past the LEFT side of the Artwork so when using place on END or CORNER that the machine drives the board to the area just past the Art then starts it's cut approach from 4 inches away...

Makes repeatability better when you get a X Stall.

IF.... I were doing this un seen project.... I would do the Carving in a Contrasting Wood Board and do a FANCY Joint Inlay into the center of the beam.... Even with an Arched Top that extends past the edge of the Beam and below it.... Some Dove Tail in the ends of the board and hand cut into the beam... I would only fasten it in the centerline of the inlay board to allow for expansion and contraction.

And I would order the extra sand paper belts if you are using them... And 3 sets of X Gears.. TODAY....

Took All day off yesterday... First in a while...

Good Luck,

AL

[bergerud]

Here may be a use for the "board switch" technique of the rotary jig. Go through the procedure of setting up the carve on a short board. After the measuring is all done and it is about to carve, switch out the short board for the long one. The advantage to this is that you do not have to support the long board and subject the machine to the stresses of the long distance of measurement. The long board only moves the length of the carving. You still need aux. roller supports, but again, only to support for the length of the carve.

[northey87]

This is why I setup a CW room! Its 18ft long with the CW in the middle, with 3 roller supports on both sides of the CW 18" apart. Its great for running long pieces like the one the OP needs to run. The other great thing about the room is cuts the noise down in the rest of the shop. I will try to post a pic or two later.

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[liquidguitars]

I would do the math and place on end... Moving that weight TWICE to place on center is asking for trouble.....

dito...



What about placing wheels on the CW and just clamp the board down on a table..... just kidding...

[dbfletcher]

What about placing wheels on the CW and just clamp the board down on a table..... just kidding...

Now you KNOW someone here is gonna try that! I'm envisioning a ball bearing rail system with very little friction. Almost seems plausible as long as you could insure the rails and the board stayed parallel and equidistant.

[myshop1044]

Thanks fellows, I too am worried about measuring that whole length. I did suggest a 18" carving and do a inlay
on to the board. The inlay could be done with a router very easy.
Thanks for all the input.

Perry

[bergerud]

With my suggestion, you would not have to measure the board at all. First give the switch procedure a try with some smaller boards just to get the hang of it. You know, measure a short board, and just before the carve starts, stop the machine and replace with the short board with the long one.

Edit: hey look, we both just became members!! Congratulations Perry. Now the next thing you know we will be seniors!

[gwhiz]

I did a 6'x2"x14" sign from Cypress. Probably similar in weight. I supported both ends with roller stands and had no problems with a centered carve the entire length of the sign.

[liquidguitars]

With my suggestion, you would not have to measure the board at all. First give the switch procedure a try with some smaller boards just to get the hang of it. You know, measure a short board, and just before the carve starts, stop the machine and replace with the short board with the long one.




sounds like a good idea...

[cnsranch]

One big problem I had with an 8' board was making sure the sides were straight and parallel to one another, and that the bottom edge had no flaws on the roller side.

That long, and you can bind the board in the machine (x gears) or lose contact with the brass roller.

I really like the suggestion of swapping boards right as the project begins to spin up....