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View Full Version : How Can I Make a Color Light Box Sign



Alan Malmstrom
11-08-2011, 02:16 PM
My sister is going to rent out a small sandwitch shop and she would like to make a sign for the front. It is a light box sign and she is wondering if it would be possible for me to take the blank acrylic sign that is there and use some acytate sheets or something that would allow light to pass through it and make a cheep sign that way. I would want to do three different colors for the design. I have not seen any videos on youtube that show how this type of thing might be done so I don't think it is possible.

I know I could try color film and cut out the different elements but I don't think it would last in the sun. And what ever type of adhesive probably wouldn't last in the elements or may bubble up from the heat.

Does anybody know if there is a way to do this sort of sign cheaply.

48786

Alan

fwharris
11-08-2011, 03:54 PM
How about using a transparency film and print your design on it from your computer!

Kenm810
11-08-2011, 03:55 PM
Alan,

Have you thought about "Heat resistant translucent acrylic paints" We hand brush or air brush it onto glass or clear plexi panels for displays,
you can pick up small bottles of different colors at art supply stores or hobby/craft outlets. It's fast drying and light easily passes right through it,
plus you can mix it as thick or thin as you need or like. It will take a little experimenting, -- but mistakes are normally easy to repair or touch up.

DaveN
11-08-2011, 05:27 PM
You could try Gels, there used for stage lighting, you mite be able to find them at a music store that sells band equiptment or shop around on line.

Sallen1215
11-08-2011, 05:30 PM
If you know a sign guy you can see if they have translucent vinyl. that s how bit signs are done. You can probably find a company with a plotter you can use to cut the vinyl and then just apply it to the top of the acrylic

Stephen

jaroot
11-08-2011, 05:54 PM
Or if you can get a hold of the translucent vinyl you can cut it out with your CW! I cut stencils for my wife out of thin plastic sheets all the time with mine. I just double stick tape it to a carrier board and set the carve depth to about 1/32" and use vectors with the carving bit.

Although it would probably be easier to just have the sign guy cut it out.

Alan Malmstrom
11-08-2011, 10:24 PM
Thanks for all the info everyone.

I like the Acrylic paint idea. I could do air brush translucent acrylic paint. That sounds about the easiest if I just do some matt airbrush masking and painting. I will do some experimenting to see if the flat areas come out streak free on plexiglass.

The translucent vinyl would be easiest but after looking for it online I found it only in like 30 yard rolls for lots of money. I wish I could find it in 8.5 x 11 sheets because I need it mostly for lettering. But the cost for big rolls is too much. Also the idea of using the carving machine to cut the vinyl is a good idea that I would try if I had some Translucent vinyl.

The Carvewright could replace those little Cricket cutters. It is the same concept but just a bigger cutting bit. The Cricket cutter doesn't have translucent vinyl: http://main.cricut.com/shopping/products-Vinyl-265.aspx

There are gel acrylic paints too but I would rather try the airbrush.

I wish I had a printer big enough to print a big sign on like the transparency paper. But I would also have to think of weather and wind and stuff.

I did find a product called acrylic sheets: http://www.inventables.com/technologies/opaque-red-acrylic-sheet which comes in 1/8 and 1/4 but it would be like making a bunch of pieces and fitting them together like a puzzle which could present a new host of problems. I wonder if this would work as a good caving medium without damaging the cutting blade and all.

Alan

James RS
11-09-2011, 03:29 AM
Thanks for all the info everyone.

I like the Acrylic paint idea. I could do air brush translucent acrylic paint. That sounds about the easiest if I just do some matt airbrush masking and painting. I will do some experimenting to see if the flat areas come out streak free on plexiglass.

The translucent vinyl would be easiest but after looking for it online I found it only in like 30 yard rolls for lots of money. I wish I could find it in 8.5 x 11 sheets because I need it mostly for lettering. But the cost for big rolls is too much. Also the idea of using the carving machine to cut the vinyl is a good idea that I would try if I had some Translucent vinyl.

The Carvewright could replace those little Cricket cutters. It is the same concept but just a bigger cutting bit. The Cricket cutter doesn't have translucent vinyl: http://main.cricut.com/shopping/products-Vinyl-265.aspx

There are gel acrylic paints too but I would rather try the airbrush.

I wish I had a printer big enough to print a big sign on like the transparency paper. But I would also have to think of weather and wind and stuff.

I did find a product called acrylic sheets: http://www.inventables.com/technologies/opaque-red-acrylic-sheet which comes in 1/8 and 1/4 but it would be like making a bunch of pieces and fitting them together like a puzzle which could present a new host of problems. I wonder if this would work as a good caving medium without damaging the cutting blade and all.

Alan
I n regards to the bottom line I did find a product called acrylic sheets: http://www.inventables.com/technolog...-acrylic-sheet (http://www.inventables.com/technologies/opaque-red-acrylic-sheet) which comes in 1/8 and 1/4 but it would be like making a bunch of pieces and fitting them together like a puzzle which could present a new host of problems. I wonder if this would work as a good caving medium without damaging the cutting blade and all. Design the patterns in Designer or something and cut with the CW puzzle solved (Pun Intended )Do you have the DXF software for the CW?

Alan Malmstrom
11-09-2011, 09:39 AM
Design the patterns in Designer or something and cut with the CW puzzle solved (Pun Intended )Do you have the DXF software for the CW?

I don't have the DXF software but I could always use the "Outline Pattern" and then "Cut Path" to get vector lines and cut them out with the 1/8 cutting bit. I'm not sure if tabs would work on a peice of material that is only 1/8 thick though.

I wonder if this Acrylic Sheet would be a good material for cutting.

Alan

Ike
11-09-2011, 11:31 AM
I learned this trick years ago as a teen. The finish I used for signs was Evirotex brand epoxy that dried in 1 hour. It was a 5-1 mixture that you can't find anymore! You still can find 1-1 mix. Anyway with recessed letters they need to be carve deeper and I would use paint pigment mix it with the epoxy and then pour or use a paint syringe and fill the bottom of the letters. Of course the sign needed to be flat and level.

In solid form the epoxy dries fast and hardens. Now this way will only work changing the letter colors, unless you used a thick piece of material then used a carve region and mix the color you want and pour a thin layer. Epoxy is not cheap but will go a long way.

Ike

Okay Ken found what you were talking about! My turn, right post wrong topic!

Pratyeka
11-09-2011, 02:06 PM
this place has fake stained glass paint: http://www.plaidonline.com/gallery-glass/brand/home.htm

Alan Malmstrom
11-09-2011, 02:58 PM
I learned this trick years ago as a teen. The finish I used for signs was Evirotex brand epoxy that dried in 1 hour. It was a 5-1 mixture that you can't find anymore! You still can find 1-1 mix. Anyway with recessed letters they need to be carve deeper and I would use paint pigment mix it with the epoxy and then pour or use a paint syringe and fill the bottom of the letters. Of course the sign needed to be flat and level.

In solid form the epoxy dries fast and hardens. Now this way will only work changing the letter colors, unless you used a thick piece of material then used a carve region and mix the color you want and pour a thin layer. Epoxy is not cheap but will go a long way.

Ike

That would be the way to go, but what material would you use to carve that the epoxy resin could stick good too, and have maybe about the same shrinkage and expansion rate in the hot temperatures.

Of coarse you could only go as big as the carvewright width of about 14 inch.

Also, my daughter makes stained glass projects that they have for kids now and she loves to do it but it kind of leaves a little bit of the brush marks and is not flat all the way across. I could have sworn I saw the stained glass paint at hobby lobby.

I also say at hobby lobby a translucent acrylic paint or maybe they called it a stain. but they advertised it as being usefull in many different aplicaation techniques like airbrush and spunge etc. I forgot what it was called but it was by the oil paints and it was made in England.

Alan

James RS
11-09-2011, 04:31 PM
I don't have the DXF software but I could always use the "Outline Pattern" and then "Cut Path" to get vector lines and cut them out with the 1/8 cutting bit. I'm not sure if tabs would work on a peice of material that is only 1/8 thick though.

I wonder if this Acrylic Sheet would be a good material for cutting.

Alan
They use Acrylic on the site here I've seen

James RS
11-09-2011, 04:32 PM
this place has fake stained glass paint: http://www.plaidonline.com/gallery-glass/brand/home.htm
I used that stuff, works well but it does fade after awhile . looks like colored elmers glue that drys clear.

Ike
11-10-2011, 11:23 PM
[QUOTE=Alan Malmstrom;165653]That would be the way to go, but what material would you use to carve that the epoxy resin could stick good too, and have maybe about the same shrinkage and expansion rate in the hot temperatures.

Alan, I used it with my redwood signs. I would carve the lettering and paint the letter and pour a different color for a two tone look. The epoxy remains the same size and shape and I have never experienced shrinkage or expansion.... well not enough to notice! The epoxy resin is like glue, but is thick. Epoxy is used for clocks or decoupage I would think the material is porous and epoxy will adhere to the surface.

Ike

Alan Malmstrom
11-11-2011, 10:02 AM
OK, I have decided to use the Translucent Cast Acryilic and cut out each individual letter and element for the sign, and screw them into the existing surface of the translucent light box. I will cut them out on the carvewright and paint them black for a boarder around the outside of each letter. Then in the black boarder I will drill screw holes.

Now my question is: how can I add tabs to a closed path that has a "Select Bit" assigned to it. I would like to cut through the 1/8 inch Acrylic and have tabs to hold it in place. Of coarse I would secure the acrylic to another board for cutting but I don't want the acrylic to damage the machine when it cuts through. Is it possible to put some kind of tabs in an assigned "Select Bit" cut? I don't have the conforming vectors program and there is no way I am drawing all the lines by hand. Besides you cannot do an offset (cut around the outside) cut without having a closed path.

If it is not possible to cut through and have tabs, then I would secure the acrylic with double sided tape, but I don't know what kind to use. I could use carpet tape which is maybe 8 mils thick but I don't know if this would get in the way of carving or clog something up. Does anybody have any experience doing this type of thing?

Alan

Ike
11-11-2011, 12:56 PM
Glad you figured out what you want to do! With the epoxy and paint pigment it would be applied after carving out the letters and the carve region. I wanted to clarify that I didn't mean pouring first then carving. Good luck with your adventure and show us the end result!

Ike

Alan Malmstrom
11-11-2011, 03:12 PM
Glad you figured out what you want to do! With the epoxy and paint pigment it would be applied after carving out the letters and the carve region. I wanted to clarify that I didn't mean pouring first then carving. Good luck with your adventure and show us the end result!

Ike

I would do that Ike but the sign is 41 inch wide and 35 inches tall. I have some epoxy resin in the basement and just might use it one day.

I just need some help on trying to do a cut out of the 1/8 inch material. Maybe some spray adhesive would work good. I know I heard of somebody sticking things and cutting them out before but I cant find it.

Alan

Kenm810
11-11-2011, 03:30 PM
I know 3M make several types of Spray Adhesives that might work,
you could look into some of those --
I've used some I bought at Lowes around the Shop.
http://www.clubxb.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21009

Ike
11-11-2011, 11:09 PM
I would do that Ike but the sign is 41 inch wide and 35 inches tall. I have some epoxy resin in the basement and just might use it one day.

I just need some help on trying to do a cut out of the 1/8 inch material. Maybe some spray adhesive would work good. I know I heard of somebody sticking things and cutting them out before but I cant find it.

Alan


Alan I hope you are not thinking epoxy glue? I am talking about the epoxy finish used for clocks bar tops etc. http://eti-usa.com/envirotex-lite/ You threw me off on the size! FYI sign measurements is the same as board measurement the length is 41" and width 35", like a board being 12" wide and 8' long. Width is vertical and length horizontal. Just saying, you can call it the way you want!

Ike

PS they also sell the color dye http://eti-usa.com/transparent-dyes/ http://eti-usa.com/opaque-pigments/

Alan Malmstrom
11-12-2011, 06:53 PM
Alan I hope you are not thinking epoxy glue? I am talking about the epoxy finish used for clocks bar tops etc. http://eti-usa.com/envirotex-lite/ You threw me off on the size! FYI sign measurements is the same as board measurement the length is 41" and width 35", like a board being 12" wide and 8' long. Width is vertical and length horizontal. Just saying, you can call it the way you want!

Ike

Yes the Clear Casting Epoxy is what I am thinking of. The same stuff they have on that site link you supplied. That link is a good source for the color pigments. I will ad that to my favorites for future refernce. Thanks!

I didn't know that signs are refered to as horizontal length and Verticle width but now I do. Thanks! I can use that information now that I am almost a sign maker.

Alan

Denise
04-10-2012, 11:09 AM
I know this thread is several months old. But I was searching for a way to do color lithopanes. Painting is too much work...I guess I am lazy... I did find another solution for smaller corian projects.

Reference: http://www.vectric.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=18356

1. converted the color image into a CMYK image then deleted the "K" channel which is the black or shades of gray that the lithophane already represents.
Then glue the transparency to the back of the lithophane being sure to line it up just right.

NOTE: They look the same as a regular Lithophane from the front without back lighting (and if you give them a light spray of mat-white lacquer you can't see the transparency from the back side also).

2. I used 3M Super77 spray adhesive, it has no affect on the ink and gives you a little bit of time to line up the print before setting up.
This adhesive can also be used to attach a lithophane to glass...

I think I want to try this and see how it works out

Alan Malmstrom
04-10-2012, 04:22 PM
I know this thread is several months old. But I was searching for a way to do color lithopanes. Painting is too much work...I guess I am lazy... I did find another solution for smaller corian projects.

Reference: http://www.vectric.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=18356

1. converted the color image into a CMYK image then deleted the "K" channel which is the black or shades of gray that the lithophane already represents.
Then glue the transparency to the back of the lithophane being sure to line it up just right.

NOTE: They look the same as a regular Lithophane from the front without back lighting (and if you give them a light spray of mat-white lacquer you can't see the transparency from the back side also).

2. I used 3M Super77 spray adhesive, it has no affect on the ink and gives you a little bit of time to line up the print before setting up.
This adhesive can also be used to attach a lithophane to glass...

I think I want to try this and see how it works out

Hi Denise

I had done that before where you print three seperate trasparencies -Cyan Magenta Yellow and black and it works for a color overlay visual aid but it was kind of blurry. I don't know what it would be like all glued together though. For outdoor use it would probably not work but in a light box it might.

Alan

Denise
04-10-2012, 08:45 PM
Alan,

It is a little fuzzy...the pictures I took was because my hands were a little shaky...but I think it turned out nice.

http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?20488-My-first-color-lithopane

mrtaz
10-23-2012, 08:21 AM
i can switch the picture to cmyk in corel, not how do i delete the k??????

thanks, Bill