New Machine and Flex Cable

[gapdev]

Received Machine #2 today. I love the look, smell, and sound of brand new machines. Nice and lubed. Squeaky clean, everything moves smoothly, no sawdust.

However, it seems the Flex Cables are doomed from the start. Perhaps because of the way they are packed?

Look at the picture of the one that came with my machine. Notice the crease? This is where the cable was pressed against the hood while packed in the box.

I did a quick carve of the Wilderness clock back which consists of somewhere around a 30 minute cutout (no carving) in Oak. The shaft barely got warm, although the known wear areas got a bit warmer (right around the middle of the shaft).

I'll be doing the front tomorrow. This is about a 5 to 6 hour carve and this will be the 4th time I've attempted this. 1st: I opened the cover to vacuum and then got one of the dreaded 302/303 errors when it started up again ( I think that's the error code), 2nd: Power went out 1/2 way through. 3rd: Flex Shaft meltdown.

One of the first things I noticed about the new machine is that when I turn it on, it doesn't briefly dim the overhead light. My first machine does this and it is perplexing since I'm using a 20amp circuit and there is nothing else on it.

Anyway, is the creased Flexshaft something to worry about or is this normal for all new machines?

Kenny
47600

[fwharris]

Kenny,

Congrats on the new machine!
I am sure one of the fine folks at LHR :) will add their thoughts about the crease in the outer cover but keep a temp check on it during your carving. Just insure the inner casing is not kinked or crimped. Both of my machines have the same crease. Al has made several recommendations that the flex shaft should be removed for shipping probably because of this.


Great idea to pick up a cheap IR thermometer if you don't have one. Harbor Freight has a small on for less than $20. I monitor the full shaft length and the z truck/cutting head. Most times the bend is low 80s to low 90s.

Did you try recovering your aborted carvings by either restarting the carve from the beginning or placing a 0 carve region over the already carved areas? I have had my share of restarts and was amazed at how well they came out.

[gapdev]

Most times the bend is low 80s to low 90s.

Man, I'd sure like to know how you accomplish that!

I have an Infrared Thermometer and measured the temperature of the Flex Shaft every 15 to 30 minutes during the 5 hour carve of the Wilderness Eagle Clock front. The temperature ranged from 140 to 150 and at one time it went as high as 161. The hottest spot was at the bend, right around the tip of the wire support. Although the machine runs smoother than my other machine and seems to carve better, I don't think the shaft should be getting this hot. I'm going to try the "dime sized glob" of Moly in the center trick and see if that helps but I thought we didn't need to do anything to a brand new Flex Shaft.

I had moved the Wilderness Clock top pieces off to their own MPC and board, and while carving/cutting those (1 1/2 hours) the temperature never went above 120. Still a long ways away from your 90 degrees.

Well, the good news is, 2 weeks and $2000.00 later, I was finally able to carve my clock :mrgreen: !

Kenny

[jgowrie]

I had an issue with the Flex shaft heating up after about a year of use. Not sure what the temp was but, based on a cup of coffee, I'd say I had a temp of around 125 degrees or slightly higher. I pulled the core out of the sheath and lubricated it with a spray on chain lube ( containing MOLY ). The shaft runs noticeably cooler now and if I had to guess, I would say I'm down around the 90-100 degree mark.

Best thing you can do is lube the entire shaft. I laid my flex shaft out on a piece of plastic and sprayed the entire shaft so that it was soaked and then let it sit there for a bit. Picking it up and lightly wiping off the excess lube before placing it back into it's sheath.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Because the outer flex shaft sits in the cut motor housing then turn to lock, it is possible that the marks are just from pushing the flex in while the top cover is still on.... Makes it hard to get to the screw on the cut motor that locks the flex in the motor. But I bet that a study was done and the time it takes to remove the cover and put it back for a LHR Tech, it is just easier to reach in with small hands and tighten the screw... Hence the mark on the outer flex.

Good Job getting the Clock done.

You might want to search about using a Vacuum to clean the machine out while stopped.... Many posts on... I killed my machine with my Wet Dry Vac.... It's the Static.... First chance you get, buy the Ringneck Dust Collector.... and a small 1 HP 4 inch dust collector.

I understand not everyone has the money for stuff like that but... Kill the machine and you will buy a new $300.00 computer, Power Supply $?? and LCD Display $??... So it is like my advice at buying Cut Motor brushes.... Change them at 250 cut hours of wait for 280 and stall and snap a $40.00 bit... Pay me now or pay me more later....


Good Luck,

AL

[dcalvin4]

you said you lifteded the lid to stop the machine for whatever reason ,,,,i think that your spose to push the stop button then lift the lid , might not get the error msg
just sayen
denny

[lynnfrwd]

Denny

I think it is more personal preference. I got overly excited once and accidentally hit stop twice ... ending my project. Thereafter, I always lift the lid instead.


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[gapdev]

I think it is more personal preference. I got overly excited once and accidentally hit stop twice ... ending my project. Thereafter, I always lift the lid instead.

Yea, me too! It's too easy to hit Stop twice than to simply lift the lid.


I killed my machine with my Wet Dry Vac.... It's the Static

The very first thing I did with the new machine was to hook up a ground wire to the outlet screw. Also, my home made vacuum wand that I use inside the machine is grounded to the ground wire so basically, the only thing that goes inside the machine is a 15 inch grounded aluminum tube.

I had to build a sound proof room to house the CarveWright due to complaining neighbors. I had to make a choice between also putting my Air Compressor or my Rockler Dust Collector in the room (the DC also used a 30 gal can as a Vortex to turn the DC into a 2 stage contraption) and I went with the Air Compressor and got rid of the DC. The room will now house 2 CarveWrights and a CNC Shark so there just isn't any room for a DC.

The room does tend to get a bit warm because it is closed off (very little sound gets out) so I'll probably put a fan in there but that then has a tendency to blow dust in my eyes :eek: !

What I did with the Flex Shaft was to apply a very thin layer of Crane Cams lube around the center foot of the cable. I may have put it on too thinly but we'll see how it does with the next carve.

[dbfletcher]

Denny

I think it is more personal preference. I got overly excited once and accidentally hit stop twice ... ending my project. Thereafter, I always lift the lid instead.


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I learn something every day here! I didnt realize Connie was also a carver!!!!! When do we get to see some of your projects???

[lynnfrwd]

No not really. I've done hundreds and hundreds of demonstrations. Carve long enough to attract attention with the noise, let them have a peek at it in motion, then lift the lid to talk to them about it and hope you still have your voice at the end of the day.


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[gapdev]

With the new machine the sliding plate is no longer ridged, it sort of wobbles. The two screws holding it down are tight, but it rocks on the sliding rod.

Is this by design or is mine flakey? It seems like it was done like this to prevent the wood from binding?

Kenny

[dbfletcher]

FWIW I have always had that with my "A" machine... it probably have about 1/8-3/16" side to side at extreme ends of the plate.