Compucarve return to sears repair center

[jerrbitt]

Will someon please provide me informtion concerning how to contact the Sears Repair center to return the machine for repair. I've called a Diane Coker
214-553-6702 that someone had suggesged in a post but thus far she has not returned my calls.

[AskBud]

Will someon please provide me informtion concerning how to contact the Sears Repair center to return the machine for repair. I've called a Diane Coker
214-553-6702 that someone had suggesged in a post but thus far she has not returned my calls.


Sear's repair is a simple process!
Put it in the original box and take it to your local Sear's store. The larger stores have a Customer Pick-up, which is where you will go. have a written explanation of your specific problem, in the box and in hand to attach to the shipping document. The last time I had a repair situation, Diane was there. You do not need to call, just ship!

Tell the person handling your paper work that the unit needs to be sent to Garland Texas, location # 8047. No other location is equiped to do the work as far as I know. If they want to ship it somewhere else, have them call that location to verify the they are now the correct people to work on the CompuCarve.
AskBud

[lynnfrwd]

There are now several Sears locations trained to work on the CompuCarve. We are requesting an official list from Sears. I will post when I have that.

Diane is no longer at the Garland location.

[chebytrk]

Correct.. Diane Coker is no longer working at that repair location. Frank Sanchez is now in charge of the place that works on the Compucarve (in Garland,Tx). However, I suggest waiting on Lynn to see if there's a location closer to you to see if it can be repaired there. I just dropped mine off at the Garland location yesterday and should be getting it back next week. It's been quite a while since I turned it in for repair so I hope it doesn't take long and I get it back soon.

[lynnfrwd]

There are several now. It is my understanding that they were all trained at the Garland Repair Center:

Sears 8024
2301 MOUNTAIN INDUSTRIAL BLVD # D
TUCKER GA 30084 3808
770-496-8050


Sears 9277
781 CROSSROADS DR # 100
ODENTON MD 21113 1110
888-391-8867


Sears 8231
2063 GEORGE ST
MELROSE PARK IL 60160 1521
708-216-3033



Sears 8084
200 BLUMENFELD DR # B
SACRAMENTO CA 95815 3904
916-648-2442


Sear 8047
3845 GRADER ST
GARLAND TX 75042
214-553-6777‎

[jerrbitt]

Thanks, look forward to the post. The Sears gal told me that they normally send it to the closest location to the store. In my case, Jacksonville, NC that would be wither Baltimore or Atlanta. But I've heard stories about some Sears repair sites tht don't know diddly about the machine.

[lynnfrwd]

Thanks, look forward to the post. The Sears gal told me that they normally send it to the closest location to the store. In my case, Jacksonville, NC that would be wither Baltimore or Atlanta. But I've heard stories about some Sears repair sites tht don't know diddly about the machine.

Hmmm. Don't have any of those on the list.

[AskBud]

Use the Sear's list that Lynn posted and insist that Sear's specify the shop number of that facility. I'm sure that Sear's gave Lynn the latest list of authorized/trained locations. All others will just turn the unit back as "Not able to repair", and you will have wasted about 2 weeks.
AskBud

[lynnfrwd]

I'm sure that Sear's gave Lynn the latest list of authorized/trained locations.
AskBud

Fresh from Sears this morning!

[jerrbitt]

Surprised at the good service when I dropped off my Compucarve at
Sears Friday. First of all, they have all my purchases on the computer history so I did not have to produce the maintenance agreement. Secondly, the Sears gal in response to my request to have it shipped to Garland TX said that she would have to check on that. Don't know who she called but they told her to have it shipped to Garland.

Now with fingers crossed, we'll see if the repair work is effetive. I'm hoping they don't raise a fuss when they see I have the Ron Justice spindel installed. But perhaps I worry too much.

Thanks to all for your suggestions.

[chebytrk]

Surprised at the good service when I dropped off my Compucarve at
Sears Friday. First of all, they have all my purchases on the computer history so I did not have to produce the maintenance agreement. Secondly, the Sears gal in response to my request to have it shipped to Garland TX said that she would have to check on that. Don't know who she called but they told her to have it shipped to Garland.

Now with fingers crossed, we'll see if the repair work is effetive. I'm hoping they don't raise a fuss when they see I have the Ron Justice spindel installed. But perhaps I worry too much.

Thanks to all for your suggestions.

Shouldn't worry. Mine is in Garland repair center now with RJustice chuck & modified top cover for DC system. I've turned in before like that & never had an issue. Hope to have it back by Friday.

[liquidguitars]

I'm hoping they don't raise a fuss when they see I have the Ron Justice spindel installed.


Not sure if that was a good call.

[AskBud]

There are several now. It is my understanding that they were all trained at the Garland Repair Center:

Sears 8024
2301 MOUNTAIN INDUSTRIAL BLVD # D
TUCKER GA 30084 3808
770-496-8050


Sears 9277
781 CROSSROADS DR # 100
ODENTON MD 21113 1110
888-391-8867


Sears 8231
2063 GEORGE ST
MELROSE PARK IL 60160 1521
708-216-3033



Sears 8084
200 BLUMENFELD DR # B
SACRAMENTO CA 95815 3904
916-648-2442


Sear 8047
3845 GRADER ST
GARLAND TX 75042
214-553-6777‎
MY #7 machine just returned from garland Texas (Unit 8047) with a slip stating that it was sent to the wrong unit.
After about 1 and 1/2 hours, Sear's determined that it needed to be sent to Chattanooga Tenn (unit 8037). It's on the way there as I type.

I called Tennessee when I got home to verify that the do indeed service the CC. Pat, with whom I spoke assured me that they do repair the CC.

It also appears that Sear's is now being District/Region sensitive as to what locations may send them repair requests! Therefore, have your service center verify the the location to do the repair is still on their list as valid for their use (have them call, if necessary).
AskBud

[chebytrk]

The Garland Unit is still working on CompuCarve. Person in charge is Frank Sanchez 214 553 6777. Their physical location was a 2d repair center in Garland that does that actual work and had a store selling "repaired" items. That store portion of it closed. However, the repair center portion is still in operation. I had my machine there a couple of weeks ago and picked it up from there. I was told that next time I would have to deliver it to the other location (off of Miller Rd) for repair submission. That is basically a "drop off" point for items needing repair. They also have a store in that place. Hopefully that won't happen for a LONG time!

[AskBud]

The Garland Unit is still working on CompuCarve. Person in charge is Frank Sanchez 214 553 6777. Their physical location was a 2d repair center in Garland that does that actual work and had a store selling "repaired" items. That store portion of it closed. However, the repair center portion is still in operation. I had my machine there a couple of weeks ago and picked it up from there. I was told that next time I would have to deliver it to the other location (off of Miller Rd) for repair submission. That is basically a "drop off" point for items needing repair. They also have a store in that place. Hopefully that won't happen for a LONG time!Thanks for your input.
It does appear that Sear's is now being District/Region sensitive as to what locations may send them repair requests!
AskBud

[Skyhawk]

Unfortunately i have the extended warranty so I'm kind of stuck...I have checked in, and the Garland Tx repair center no longer exists. (that's where they sent it the first time) It's now located in Maryland. It's been returned four times in the three months, each time with new issues, so back it goes. I received a call from them two weeks ago that they were waiting on parts and that I should hear from them within a week...still waiting patiently...Hopefully they test it this time!

[mtylerfl]

Unfortunately i have the extended warranty so I'm kind of stuck...I have checked in, and the Garland Tx repair center no longer exists. (that's where they sent it the first time) It's now located in Maryland. It's been returned four times in the three months, each time with new issues, so back it goes. I received a call from them two weeks ago that they were waiting on parts and that I should hear from them within a week...still waiting patiently...Hopefully they test it this time!

Hi Jim,

Uh-oh.I'm very sorry to hear that. I'll bet they don't have anyone specifically trained in repair of the machine at the Maryland location, but I do not know that for sure, of course. This is exactly the kind of thing that I mentioned makes me "nervous" for you. Other than their legal obligation to make good on the warranty they sold you, I imagine Sears no longer has any tangible vested interest in obtaining proper training or keeping parts on hand for repair work. It's a shame, and you are the one being incovenienced it seems. I'd tend to recommend if it doesn't come back in perfect working order this time, you may want to consider biting the bullet (easy for me to say I guess, since it's not my $ though!) and send it directly to CarveWright - that is, only if it's some kind of repair you cannot do yourself with the advice/help from CW Tech Support and this forum.

[chebytrk]

I would advise you to contact Sears hotline and "raise cane" with them. Tell them that they'll need to extend your warranty out further because of this stuff going on now. As for the repair center closing..... I'm not sure that's quite right. The 2d repair center location in Garland will no longer take machines their directlly. They now have to be taken to the Sears Repair center off Miller Road and they handle and schedule the repairs to the other repair center. I guess the 2d repair center was getting overwhelmed with customers and they decided to redirect them back to the original center. However, all that being said it looks like you don't live in Texas so maybe your case is different and that's where your machine might have to ship to (Maryland). Regardless, 3 months is extremely long. If they need parts all they do is order them from LHR. Sears tried giving me a "run around" once and they soon realized how irate I could get. I've had a couple of replacement CWs from them (I have extended warranty too) and I think they kinda know me by name. ha ha My biggest "peave" is dealing with monkey's in customer service companies that don't know anything other than what it written in front of them. I get names, dates, times and head straight to the top and get action that way. I guess it's because I've been in the Telecom customer support business for 30+ years and I believe in treating my 200k customer just as good as my 200M customer. They both deserve nothing less than great service for the amount that they've each paid. So....... raise some hell and make some calls. I'm sure it'll work. I've even had them send me money gift cards for the "inconvinience" they've caused. You need to become part of the few, the proud and the Loud. LOL


Unfortunately i have the extended warranty so I'm kind of stuck...I have checked in, and the Garland Tx repair center no longer exists. (that's where they sent it the first time) It's now located in Maryland. It's been returned four times in the three months, each time with new issues, so back it goes. I received a call from them two weeks ago that they were waiting on parts and that I should hear from them within a week...still waiting patiently...Hopefully they test it this time!

[mtylerfl]

Would it be agreeable with everyone to ask to have the 'Sears repair discussion' moved to a new location? I seem to have hijacked my own thread!

[chebytrk]

LOL I just spit up all over my keyboard. Thanks Michael! :grin:

[mtylerfl]

LOL I just spit up all over my keyboard. Thanks Michael! :grin:

LOL! Sorry 'bout that! Do I owe you for a new one?

[cindifromsd]

Hi, we are in the same boat with a CompuCarve, with a Sears warranty until 2013. Sears is running down the clock on our warranty, and no one at corporate will help. Anyone get anywhere with this? I can't even find out what they did to *TRY* and fix it the numerous times it had been sent in before. It has come back missing parts, with the same problem, and with new problems... Just wondering who to contact, to get some results. Thanks.

[AskBud]

Hi, we are in the same boat with a CompuCarve, with a Sears warranty until 2013. Sears is running down the clock on our warranty, and no one at corporate will help. Anyone get anywhere with this? I can't even find out what they did to *TRY* and fix it the numerous times it had been sent in before. It has come back missing parts, with the same problem, and with new problems... Just wondering who to contact, to get some results. Thanks.If the unit is returned, and has a same or different problem hold their feet to the fire! Run acid tests as soon as you get it back! Each time you return the unit for repair, include a dated listing of every repair request. The warranty is to repair or replace after 4 attempts.

I'll send you one of my sample "Trouble sheets" via a PM.
AskBud

[Digitalwoodshop]

Cindi From SD,

When you are ready, work with us here on the forum and we will work you through the mechanical or electrical issues you are having. The days of Sears just giving you a replacement machine are pretty much over. Many early users wore it as a badge of honor the number of machines they managed to return and get replacements. The Return Policy and the Abuse of it pretty much Shot LHR in the Foot with Sears... A Excellent and Productive partnership destroyed due to the return policy. And part of it is the Salesman that you bought the machine from... He looking at you wanting to return the machine knowing the Commission would be deducted from his next pay check would be willing to swap out a dozen machines to keep the commission for the first machine.... Followed by a "Would you like Fry's with that?"

The early units have known problems... When you build a block of just guessing.... 50 Thousand Machines and sell them to SEARS... Then through users like US... Identify problems that LHR comes up with the Fixes... You still have a Supply Chain with 49 Thousand machines that will develop the same problem that we now have a fix for....

When your done with the Blame Game with Sears, WE are here to HELP... It is your 1st POST... WELCOME.... Homework.... GO read Tips and Tricks on the LHR Website... IT was written by USERS like US.... It could be the problems you are having are just what we call "Pilot Error".... Trying to Fly a Plane without knowing all the things you need to know... and CRASH....

Once your machine has all the "Fixes" and you understand the machine, you will be like MOST of us here..... HAPPY CARVERS...

Things to tell us when are ready you start asking questions about help. None of us here can really answer Warranty Law Questions.

1. Is your machine a "A", "B", or "C" version.... Check the Serial Number...

2. DO you have the old 18 pin FSC Cable System or the newer 14 pin Version? FSC Cable is the thick flat cable that hooks to the Z or UP and DOWN head that moves Left and Right or the Y Axis.... X Axis is the Sand Paper Belts.... XYZ... The FSC Cable can damage easy and causes all kinds of problems...

3. What Chuck do you have... A QC or Quick Connect, a ROCK or a Carve Tite?

Spend some time reading the forum and to use the search function you need to use a " " like "Z Stall".

When your ready... WE as users are here to help.... Because I am willing to bet that any problem you tell us about has been posted many times since 2007.... I spend most of my 6000 Plus posts answering the same questions over and over "With Pictures".... So ASK AWAY...

Many first posts are.... I cranked the head up real high and now it just clicks when I go to crank it down... I need to take it back to SEARS.... In the Operation Manual is the FIX for this problem.... So obviously this person did not read the Operation Manual... A 1/8 inch hole in the Jacking Shaft is provided to "Prime" the threads.... Turning it one turn... Just an example of some of the returns...

AL Just a Happy User with 4 machines....

[Digitalwoodshop]

Ruffled a few feathers with that post... Sorry..... Got a few PM's and emails...

Issues with the older machines that have known fixes.....

1. Shipping Damage... Many machines get DROPPED and TUMBLED in Shipping.... INSPECT the FRAME for DAMAGE especially the bottom side areas. Many Machines were shipped from Service not fully in the lower position and one side can be forced down making a un level head. This can result in a failure to be able to move the head up or down easily... From the hand crank on the side of the machine the left head jacking screw moves the head up and down in conjunction with the jacking screw on the right. A Cross Connect shaft can be seen from the top of the machine between the sand paper belts. This with two 45 degree gears under the machine move the head up and down. If you ever raise the head too far up past the jacking screw, then it will just click when you try to lower it. A hole in the right side jacking screw to insert a 1/8 inch drill bit to turn the jacking screw primes the threads and lets you lower the head. The dust cover for the X Gear Box has a ARROW on it showing the correct way to turn the jacking screw by hand.


Difficulty raising and lowering the head can be a UN LEVEL head... See the 4 Vertical Smooth Rods that the head raises and lowers on.... Well if the Cross Connect Gears under the machine slip a tooth, then the head will be un level... Many times a dry or dust covered smooth rail will make it difficult to raise or lower and when cranking on the hand crank the far side jacking screw may not be turned as the 45 degree gears can slip... They are only held against each other with a screw in plastic and have been known to loosen. This lets the head get out of level. This TWISTING of one side of the head being lower causes the head bushings to jam on the 4 smooth rails.... And sometimes SHIPPING damage can cause a indentation or a GROOVE in the smooth rails that the head catches on... Rotating the 4 smooth rails to move the Groove after re adjustment of the head fixes this problem. My choice for the Vertical Shaft and Jacking Screws Lubrication is CHAIN LUBE... I find it drys out over time and little sawdust collects to it as I have the Ringneck Dust Collector.... Many here have found Dry Lube to be Superior to Chain Lube. I have even used 3 in 1 oil too.... WD-40 is a Silicon Based water displacement fluid. It works good for cleaning out dusty bearings and jacking screws but will evaporate. It has little lubrication properties. IT will also cause you serious Wood Finishing problems as the Silicone causes "Fish Eyes" or places where the finish won't stick or penetrate...


Last on the Head Level... I find the best way to check the head level is to install a wide board in the machine and crank it down. Then with the power off and with a bit in the machine, move the head down on the left side of the board. Turn the machine on and select Options, Sensor Data and Z Data. It will be 0000. Now move the head to the right side of the board and touch the wood with the bit. This will tell you if the head is level. If it is NOT level, you remove the bottom of the machine with the power un plugged and remove the screw or loosen the screw on the Cross Connect for the right side jacking gear. Turn the hand crank only adjusting one jacking screw to level the head. Replace the screw in the 45 degree gears under the machine. Re check the head level.

A little trick to look at the calibration between machines if you have more than one.... Is to place the Z on the board and getting a 0000 like mentioned above. Then place a 1/4 inch Router Bit Brass adjustment block under the bit. This will tell you how many Z Encoder pulses make up a 1/4 inch. Some have posted problems when they started doing a Calibration of the machine and have problems... Between machines the Z pulses should be pretty consistant... I need to do that sometime...


Next known problem is the many things that can result because of a broken wire in the FSC Cable... That wide thin multi conductor cable shown in the picture above. Since the Z Motor Power, Z Encoder Data, and the Board Sensor data now go through the cable, and since it flexes over and over... Eventually the thin 18 conductor FSC cables were replaced with the thicker 14 pin cable in the same space as the 18 wire. Back in the old days the 18 pin cable also contained THREE more functions... The now removed RPM Sensor inside the Z Truck, the Scanning Probe Data, and a Homing Sensor... All part of that Green Circuit Board inside the Z Truck.... The RPM Sensor was deleted and the machine just relies on the Cut Motor Speed Sensor. The Probe Data was moved to the side Cover Jack and the Homing Sensor was removed and the machine now Homes by smashing into the Upper Limit Pin. The Homing Sensor was the most Photographed Part of the Machine... The Little Black Homing sensor contained a LED Light and a Sensor. It had a Slot and a METAL arm passes through the beam of light telling the machine that HOME is HERE... The Sensor would fall off due to vibration... and 50 posts showed up over the years as a... "What's THIS??".... With a blurry picture... So with the THICKER wires of the 14 pin FSC Cable Z Stalls were gone.... The 18 pin cable had the ability to pass current or voltage to the Z Motor equivalent to a AA Battery... The Thicker wires of the 14 pin FSC Cable were like powering the Z head with a "D" Battery.... MORE Current Capability..... And since the 14 wire FLAT Copper wires were THICKER they last LONGER when flexed over and over as the head moves left and right.

I still call the FSC Cable a "Consumable" as it can only bend so many times before it will develops CRACKS in the flat copper. THIS will result in STRANGE intermittent problems with the machine.... So have some on hand is a good idea.... I replaced one the other day... It was UGLY... Had a bear copper wire and some UGLY bends.... A sharp bend of the FSC Cable can be the DEATH of IT.... A Gentle Sweep is best.... A Sharp bend will bend the same spot until it snaps...

When you go from a 18 wire cable to the 14 pin cable you must change the Circuit board on either end to match the new 14 pin. The 18 wire cable are not sold anymore only the 14 pin. IF you plug the Wider PIN 14 pin Cable into a 18 min Thinner Pin Jack and turn the power on, this will SHORT out the Machine.... The Computer and Power Supply will cost you over $500.00 for that mistake. That is why it is important to know what version you have... Looking at the picture above... The WINGS or CLIPS on the side of the one circuit board is the easiest way to tell... OR Count the Wires... The Black Plastic Cover of the Z Truck that the FSC Cable passes through is also designed to HOLD the Cable HIGH and out of the way as the head moves back and forth in Y.... I forgot to put it back on one time and the cable snagged the Y Motor Cooling Fins and ripped the FSC Cable out under power at a down angle. The result was a Shorted out Z Motor. I was able to swap the motor with a spare and it was a easy fix... The advantage of having spare parts since I use the machines for a business.

Next is the Power Supply.... MANY.... Z Stall, Y Stall, X Stall, Power Fluctuation, and overall just DEAD machines were caused by a L2 Coil in the Power Supply.... It is a Lolly Pop looking Copper Wire wrapped around a Ferrite Metal Core. It is HEAVY with it's core... Copper wire if you bend it and bend it and bend it.... It will change color and SNAP.... THIS is what happens with the L2 Power Supply COIL.... It is in the Output Circuit designed to Clean the AC Noise off of the DC Power by making the Expanding and Collapsing Magnetic Fields of AC Noise Cancel each other out as the power passes through the many turns of the Coil.... This coil is GLUED to prevent this moving and snapping.... MANY L2 Coils did not get enough GLUE in that first 50 THOUSAND Machine Batch that SEARS Bought.... HENCE... WE Saw many machines turned in for this problem.... Many came back with a NEW Circuit Board Power Supply BUT the SHIPPING DAMAGE caused MORE Problems.... Like the head not Cranking Down.... OR CRACKED top COVERS and SAFETY SWITCHES... All because the SEARS TECH might not have Cranked the Head ALL the WAY DOWN..... And the FLEX Shaft should be disconnected from the Cut Motor before Shipping... MANY Flex Shafts were CRUSHED due to the Head not being cranked down all the way and the Flex Laying OVER the HEAD taking the ABUSE of Shipping and CRIMPING and PINCHING the Internal Damper Spring in the Flex Shaft. So when the person turned the machine on, the METAL to METAL contact of the crushed Spring and Core causes enough HEAT to set the Flex Shaft outer Rubber on FIRE..... I was fixing my machine out on my deck in the summer and the hot sun had softened the flex shaft rubber and when I was in a hurry whipped the shaft around to install it, KINKED the SPRING.... I was running a project in my wood shop and working on the deck. I hear my Smoke Detector in the Wood Shop... I look and the Flex Shaft Rubber is smoking and on FIRE..... SO be Gentle to the Flex Shaft....

NEXT... Board DETECTOR.... The Early Units had 2 faults... Sawdust got down inside the detector and INSIDE the LENS causing a FAILURE to detect the board edge properly... Vibration also caused the Green Circuit Board to move and eventually the copper leads of the two LED's and one Photo Coupler to SNAP OFF.... See picture showing some board detectors with 1 or 2 MISSING LEDS... The Third problem with the Board Detector is more "PILOT ERROR".... I am GUILTY of this with TWO of my machines... PULLING the Wire DOWN that plugs into the Board Detector to make it easier to plug in.... WELL.... This causes the 4 wires to slide down the SIDE of the wire cover and the sharp edge of the Y Truck cuts into the Board Detector Wires.... The Symptoms are everything from a ZERO Reading on the Board Detector to a CLOSE COVER all the time.... The Shorted wires of the Board Detector SHORT out the Data Buss and I found I got a Close cover ERROR and a Z Data of 0000 always... My first machine made the trip back to Texas as it was under warranty and I did not know what was wrong. A note from LHR (BARD) explained what had happened. The second time it happened with a used machine I dug into this snapping a Red Locktite Roller Bearing Screw as seen in the Picture. I removed the wire cover and used masking tape to cover the wire slot after getting a new cable from LHR. LHR fixed the problem with the Board Sensor by spreading a very thin bead of glue around the circuit board attaching it to the black plastic board detector holder. You can still cut down the back of the board detector to expose the back and then with tweezers remove the plastic window and clean the inside. I just did it the other day to a glued board detector that I saw had dust inside. TO TEST the board detector.... Place a sheet of White Copy Paper on the board and crank down... A 156 in Sensor Data for the Board Detector is PERFECT... a 90 is usually a dirty lens. And remember that the 2 LED's are like you TV Remote Control IR LED's. They shine light on the board and the center photo detector looks at the reflected light. IF you have a dark board in the machine, the reflection may not be enough and I have taped a sheet of white paper to the top of dark boards or even used masking tape...

Last is the X Termination Board.... C1 Capacitor..... Of my 4 machines, 3 have had the broken C1 Capacitor Problem WAY WAY WAY back when I was still using the QC. I had failed to change a worn QC that VIBRATED TOO MUCH and this vibration cause the C1 to Snap Off like the L2... IT caused the Cut Motor to START without the Computer telling it to start..... So think TWICE about ever bypassing the Right side Cover Safety Switch... The Cut Motor starting as you are changing a bit would not be good....

OK... That is the Big List.... As ALL the problems are addressed you will find you have a very trouble FREE machine....

More another time...


AL

[Digitalwoodshop]

And more pictures to go with the post... Power Supply... Dust INSIDE the encoder...

The Y Gearbox is a item that takes allot of abuse going back and forth... The bearings can go bad in less than 500 hours... I now replace them every 250 cut hours.



AL

[tierman]

Al,
You can ruffle as many feathers as you would like! I for one would like to thank you and the many others on this forum that have helped me several times to become more knowledgeable about this terrific piece of equipment.Whether it be maintenance or repair, you guys are always there to help.
THANK YOU!

[liquidguitars]

You can ruffle as many feathers as you would like!

Al, your da man... thanks