Carving Acoustic Musical Instruments

[JerryMcGuire]

Is there anyone out there using the Carvewright to carve mandolin backboards and soundboards? Are there patterns available? Has anyone successfully carved both sides of a backboard or soundboard from a single piece of wood? I want to build mandolins but I have found handcarving tedious and not reproducable from one instrument to another.

[jpaluck]

http://liquidguitars.com/

the guy on the forum name is LG..he uses the CW..beatiful work

[JerryMcGuire]

Thanks for the link. I've seen these instruments previously, however they appear to be "solid" body instruments and are electrical. Acoustic involves more precision carving in that the soundboard/backboard are thin (about 0.25 inches at the thickest point) and when assembled give an instrument with "arched" top and back.

[lynnfrwd]

He would probably be the best one to advice if what you need can be done.

[eelamb]

I do not believe LG's are solid, but Acoustic as you mentioned. But he can fill you in better in that area.

[liquidguitars]

My mandolins and electric violins " 1.6 to 1.8 lbs " are caved like an acoustic violin inside and out TYP. Solid violins would be way to heavy to hold for long.


Below image, early prototype.

http://www.liquidguitars.com/assets/images/violinblue.jpg

[JerryMcGuire]

Your instruments are certainly beautiful. I apologize for thinking they were solid body. I'm trying to carve a standard F-style mandolin. I ordered a precarved top and back and made patterns using the scanning probe. I can carve one side of the top/back but cannot seem to get the reverse side of the top/back to match up so I can flip the billet and carve it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[atauer]

There is actually another user that creates miniature violins. Goes by the moniker of FiddleMakerMills. I haven't seen him on here recently, but all the fiddles that he does are acoustic. If you send him a message, he may get back with you.

[mtylerfl]

Your instruments are certainly beautiful. I apologize for thinking they were solid body. I'm trying to carve a standard F-style mandolin. I ordered a precarved top and back and made patterns using the scanning probe. I can carve one side of the top/back but cannot seem to get the reverse side of the top/back to match up so I can flip the billet and carve it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Hi Jerry,

As long as the front and back patterns are accurate, it should be no problem getting them to line up from front to back. Are you aware of the Snap to Grid tool and the use of Attachments when laying out a project? Many of us use those features to achieve precise alignment of front/back carvings. Quite a few of the Projects of the Month are front/back projects and the alignment has never been a problem. Of course, without actually seeing your particular MPC and patterns, it is difficult to suggest what you need to do to get your layout to carve properly. Call or PM me if you need specific help with alignment of your project, but don't want to post your MPC's publicly.

[JerryMcGuire]

Being kind of a novice at using the pattern software, I'm not really up to speed on the Snap to Grid and Attachments features. I'll look into them and see if I can figure it out. Otherwise, I may be getting back in touch. Thanks a bunch!

[liquidguitars]

Jerry,

You do not need to use "snap to grid" just center the mandolin raster on your project board this will get you what you need. I also recommend that if you use a sled make your MPC to mirror the sled layout.

For the overall project size in x here's what I do for my stuff , lets say the mandolin top is 16" long add a extra 10" for the project board and sled layout "combined" then center the raster, x and y.

Adding the extra will give you room for the 4" tails and 1" for screwing down the stock to the sled. 1:1 WYSIWYG. you can use this system for all the parts including the neck and fingerboard.

Once finished my design makes a cut list for the sled at the same time , it will also enable the CW to drill it's own center marks directly on the sled to handle the flipping fun.

[geekviking]

Hi Jerry,

, but don't want to post your MPC's publicly.


Unless of course, you'd be willing to share the Ptns, I for one would be willing to learn it with you. I am fascinated by LG's skills. Can't wait to see yours when you get further along!

[liquidguitars]

but don't want to post your MPC's publicly.


ya i kinda missed that one, I recommend you not share them unless it's with me ... heh heh.

[liquidguitars]

The mandolins are fun to make.
4670546706

[JerryMcGuire]

Hi Geekviking, thanks for your inputs. I'm still experimenting. I'll let you know if I'm successful. Jerry

[JerryMcGuire]

Hello liguidguitars. I'm totally fascinated with how you carve your instruments. The blue mandolin looks as if is electric. Is it? Also, how does it sound when played acoustically. Was the neck carved on the carvewright as well? Fascinating. Anyway, I'm still experimenting and may be close to carving the outside and inside of a soundboard and/or backboard soon. My biggest problem as I said before is getting the front and reverse patterns to line up properly. As you probably already know, tonewoods are expensive and I made the mistake of doing a trial run on an expensive piece of european spruce. Won't do that again. I'll use a cheap piece of pine to test my pattern next time. Oh well, live and learn. Thanks for the help. Jerry

[bergerud]

What kind of line up problems are you having? Do a simple test. On a scrap board, use the drill function to drill a centered hole half way through from each side. How well the holes line up will tell whether you have a calibration problem. (In the calibration menu, check to see if there is a y offset. Twice now my y offset has spontaneously taken a value and misaligned my double sided carves.)

[mtylerfl]

...My biggest problem as I said before is getting the front and reverse patterns to line up properly. As you probably already know, tonewoods are expensive and I made the mistake of doing a trial run on an expensive piece of european spruce. Won't do that again. I'll use a cheap piece of pine to test my pattern next time. Oh well, live and learn. Thanks for the help. Jerry

Hi Jerry,

I'm sorry to hear about the waste of the expensive wood. I'm still puzzled why you cannot get the front/back alignment to work for you. It's usually a pretty straightforward procedure and you should be able to line them up without incident. Must be something else going on there that we don't know about. In any case, the offer is still open if you want to contact me personally for assistance.

[JerryMcGuire]

Hello mytylerf1, thanks for the offer of assistance. I think I may have solved my alignment headache but haven't had a chance to test it yet. I'll let you know how it turns out. Jerry

[JerryMcGuire]

Hello bergerud. Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a try. Jerry

[geekviking]

LG - LOL! :)

Jerry - Thank you, let me know if there is anything I can do to further the mission of Carvewrighters : "To boldly carve where no man has carved before" :)