Painting / Bleeding

[reads5179]

I have a project, Family Crest plaque. I have tested some pieces of wood and it seems to bleed. I want the back of the shield to be stained and the stars and helmet and such to be painted. Any ideas on how to keep the paint from bleeding ?

Thanks

[dbfletcher]

I normally stain and then coat with polycrylic (clear spray) and then paint. Then hit it with a few more coats of clear when all done.

[LittleRedWoodshop]

That is a great tip, Doug.

[mtylerfl]

I do something similar as Doug - I usually apply 2 or 3 coats of full-strength clear de-waxed Shellac (Bullseye SealCoat) with a brush, if I need to seal wood (stained or not) that will be painted or glazed.

NOTE: Bullseye SealCoat is the only clear de-waxed shellac I know of. Any can labeled just "Shellac" will not be un-waxed unless specifically stated on the label! If you use "regular" shellac (either clear or orange), paint and other finishes will not bond well.

[lawrence]

I do something similar as Doug - I usually apply 2 or 3 coats of full-strength clear de-waxed Shellac (Bullseye SealCoat) with a brush, if I need to seal wood (stained or not) that will be painted or glazed.

NOTE: Bullseye SealCoat is the only clear de-waxed shellac I know of. Any can labeled just "Shellac" will not be un-waxed unless specifically stated on the label! If you use "regular" shellac (either clear or orange), paint and other finishes will not bond well.

Same thing for me-- I use shellac, but I tend to mix my own from flakes. It is easy, cheaper, and you don't have to worry about your shellac being old and out of date.

Lawrence

[Kenm810]

Same here,
Most pre-mixed commercial shellac preparations come at a 3-lb. cut. I prefer to mix my own about half that at a 1.5-lb. Cut,
A few thin layers of shellac produce a better end result than a couple of thick coats.
Thick layers of shellac do not adhere as well to the project board or to each other well,
and may obscure some of the fine details in carved designs in wood.
I try to use just enough to do a good job of sealing the surface.

[dbfletcher]

Another advantage of sealing the surface BEFORE painting is that if you happen to make a "whoops" with a brush stroke, drip or spill. you can normally just wipe right off with a damp cloth as long as the paint is still wet. (not that I have ever done that mind you.... ok.. maybe a few hundred times)

[Digitalwoodshop]

And to add to all this... Can Spray is thin and really wicks up the wood.. I switched to latex paint and paint with a brush then when dry sand off the slop. No problems with the thicker latex paint.

AL

[jaroot]

I kind a go with Al. 'cept I'm lazier. Depending on what want for final finish. If the painted parts are below top surface I spray the whole thing with clear coat coating the carved areas well then paint sometimes with spray can sometimes with brush on acrylics, sometimes both. Then sand top surface back to bear wood and clear coat.

[Kenm810]

That's where a drum sander really comes in handy -- a couple passes and it's ready for a couple top coats.

[Digitalwoodshop]

I do use my drum sander sometimes but I find a orbital to be quicker and the paper is cheaper as the drum can plug up due to the heat and paint and make a mess.... I have tried a thickness planer but took too much off.... I keep a box of worn hook and loop paper for my 5 inch orbital and use a worn paper for the first paint removal. "FrugAL"

So in the Clock with the Tracking Error picture, you can see I sanded too much and the rabbit got a clipping....

With the brown signs with painted white letters, I have found that a high pressure oil can with paint in it. The ones on eBay with the bump behind the trigger and are sealed work great. I add paint to one letter at a time and adjust it around with a small paint brush with the bristles cut off. I just use the metal part of the brush to push the paint up on the sides. This is for V Carverd... For Flat Bottom I like a very short bristle brush. But nothing except check and recheck and recheck... Keeps you from miss spelling the Oval sign in the Picture.... Even sent art proof to the Customer and she signed off on it... Had to make her another.... Forgot the "I" in VacatIon....

AL

[reads5179]

Shellac seems to be the most popular. So I assume I would stain the project, shellac or clear coat it, paint the stars and helmet then polyurethane coat to finish.

[200k]

I have a project, Family Crest plaque. I have tested some pieces of wood and it seems to bleed. I want the back of the shield to be stained and the stars and helmet and such to be painted. Any ideas on how to keep the paint from bleeding ?

Thanks

This is a problem that is most common with soft woods or hardwoods with an open grain like oak and ash. The solution is before applying any paint, you must seal the grain with a dewaxed shellac. I personally prefer to buy high grade dewaxed light blonde shellac chips and mix them with denatured alcohol in an appropriate amount when I need it. That way I know the cut and that it is fresh and will provide the best qualities. If you don't want to cut your own solution you can use Zinsser Bullseye Sealcoat Sanding Sealer which is pretty much the same thing in a ready made form. Just remember that once you open the can, its shelf life is limited. Putting on old shellac on a fine project that you've put a lot of work on can be a disaster. It just gets gummy and turns amber. The only way to take it off is to flood your work with denatured alcohol and hope for the best.
Anyway, once you seal the woodgrain, your problems with color bleeding, be it paint or stain, will be over.

Good luck!

[lawrence]

Welcome to the forum 200K

Lawrence

[b.sumner47]

I've used scrappers alot, even a 1 sideed razorblade, real good in tight spaces. Capt Barry

[lynnfrwd]

Did you get it painted yet? Would love to see a photo!