Removal of Y-gears

[SharonB]

Had trouble with a frozen bearing on the Y-track. So, while machine was apart I looked at the Y-gears and the large one is cracked. I have a new assembly but after removing the 3-screws I don't seem to be able to remove the gears (I have an A-machine).

I thought of using a crowbar but it was a little big and maybe a little overboard. And I don't seem to find a file on how to remove the gears....is there one out there?

[fwharris]

Sharon,

On the back side of the gear box is a "C" clip on the shaft of the gear. A small flat tip screw driver is good to pop it off.

[SharonB]

OK.... I need to RENAME THIS POST - IT SHOULD READ X-GEARS BEING REPLACED.

I finally removed the two seperate gears (x) (works when you finally discover the screw that is accesible through the larger gear. Next question: I'm replacing the two seperate gears with the one assembly. Does the piece that the small gear rode on get removed? And do you have to remove one of the sandpaper belts in order to insert the new gears? What other steps do I have to go through? This is turning out to be a bigger job that I thought....or maybe it just looks this way because I haven't been into this part of the machine before.

[fwharris]

Sharon,

Have not done the X gear replacement before but here is the pdf file ... http://www.carvewright.com/service/Service_instructions/CarveWright_service_replace_x-drive_gear.pdf

[SharonB]

Thanks.... that is the pdf file I was looking for. It should go together now.

[Digitalwoodshop]

There is a lip edge of plastic from the machine frame that prevents the gear from pulling off. The first time I did it, I removed the X Motor and then the gear. When putting it back you must install the motor and the gear at the same time to get it all to mesh. A real pain and with the motor hanging from the cable or un plugged... I real pain....

Someone else posted that just by cutting the plastic frame away it makes it possible to change the gear without removing the motor. The first one I did with my Roto zip tool and a cutting bit... That let lots of plastic chips go everywhere and I spent time blowing the gear box out. The next 3 I did with a old wood chisel and used it to cut away the plastic. Worked better....

So save yourself some stress... cut the plastic....

And closely inspect all the gears for broken teeth stuck inside that will damage the gears later.

AL

[DickB]

Al and others, I'm curious - how many gears have you gone through? I stripped my second one. Seems a weak spot.

[ibewiggin]

Al and others, I'm curious - how many gears have you gone through? I stripped my second one. Seems a weak spot.

I believe that they are supposed to be the weak spot. Keeps expensive parts from breaking. I seem to replace them everytime something goes wrong. Four sets of gears. But my new machine has had no problems to date.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Al and others, I'm curious - how many gears have you gone through? I stripped my second one. Seems a weak spot.

This broken gear makes 5 in about 3000 hours of carving between the machines.

Yes, this gear is designed to strip in the event of a jam..... There is X Overload Error Codes but sometimes it happens so quick that the X Overload misses it.... I have done some heavy PVC Board and got a few X Overload due to the Plastic Chips building up in front of the rubber rollers... The Dust Collection that I made had a weakness with the slot the way I made it and didn't do so well with the Brillo pad of plastic.... I have the New one from Ringneck Blues and it really sucks..... But I think I had cracked some teeth with the PVC before the new hood.

The Motor is about $100.00 and Computer $300.00... So a $8.00 gear is a great safety valve.....

Now as to why it happens... In my case I was using some clear pine from my local mill and I think the Kiln Dried 6 foot board was twisted or C Shaped slightly and that is why the gear snapped... I am loosing my faith in the local stuff.... 1/2 the price of the Good Stuff... The Good Stuff is Clear Hard Pine.... Long Leaf Pine from New Zealand.... YA.... New Zealand..... I am moving all signs back to that.... It cuts like Oak, nice and chrisp.... The Local Pine... Thick Growth Rings.... Not worth the price....

SO most times a broken gear is PILOT Error.... The Right Side Sliding Guide is to NEVER touch the wood.... I keep it the thickness of a Quarter away.... But if the board walks toward the Sliding Guide and hits it.... You have bigger problems... I had a rolled up belt do that one time.... I had moved the sliding guide away before carving and the board walked away from the brass roller.... And faulted.....

So cut the plastic frame to make the gear easy to replace....

Good Question..... It is HOW WE Learn..... There was a post a few years ago about making the gear from metal..... Then I posted my Theory.... and it was understood and dropped...

The Computer has 3 Driver Transistors that are screwed to the metal case to dissipate heat that control each Axis. They will burn out if the gear is made of metal... At this time I don't know of anyone replacing the actual Transistor but it is something that I did on a regular basis at Sony, the Picture Tube Plant... The Servo would drive a arm that would reach out and place a sticker on a picture tube. When the Servo went bad it would drive the arm all the way out or in depending and sit there and hum until the fuse blew.... The Servo is a balanced System where is pushes and pulls from both directions all the time.... Just harder in one direction when moving...

So at this time it is a $300.00 plus repair.... Unless the Motor burns up.... $100.00 .....

So for me.... I will stock up when I get paid for the product I have Shipped... and the 20 some signs I am painting.... Got 2 more today....

I spent too much time watching the LOGS move to Storage on our property... I will post some pictures tomorrow on the Log Thread... Here is a tease.... 11 PM.... Got a quick order for six metal 911 signs.... delivery in the morning...

And CORRECT Call "ibewiggin" You got it FIRST !!! Good Job !!!

AL

[SharonB]

Grears are back together, y-frame back on rails, now to get the blankity-blank z frame back on. I've had the z frame off before and had one heck of a time getting the bearings back on. Now I've run into the same problem. I uttered a few nice words today when it didn't go back on right.... glad there was no one around to hear. Oh well, tomorrow is another day. At least I'll have a very clean machine when all is said and done.

[TerryT]

Al and others, I'm curious - how many gears have you gone through? I stripped my second one. Seems a weak spot.

On my #1 machine, since 2007 and about 1000 hrs of carving, I have never replaced the x gears. On my B machine (Tony's) I replaced the set for Tony at about 100 hrs. He wasn't sure what happened but I think he got the board installed a little crooked causing it to jam. It can look pretty intimidating at first but it was a fairly simple repair and only took about 20 minutes to complete.

[SharonB]

Terry...once I looked at the pdf file the x-gears went back together ok. The large gear was cracked in the middle but still working. Since I had it apart I replaced the gears. Now it's just putting the z-track back on and I should be in business.