Machine Capabilities for fretwork

[Jim Sparks]

I make a lot of small clocks using a scroll saw. There is a lot of intricate fretwork in the designs. Can this be complished with the carvewright?

[BobHill]

Jim,

As long as the design is large enough that the cutting bit can do it's work without hitting other parts of the design (1/8" diameter) or the same if being carved (1/16" tip to 1/8", depending upon depth of carve) there should be no problem at all. The CW will do some great intricate cuts and carves without a problem and with great accuracy.

Bob

[Jim Sparks]

Bob,

I appreciate your help. What I neglected to point out was that 99.99% of the time I will be making cutouts as opposed to carving. I've attached an example to illustrate what I mean.
If I understand you correctly, I'll be able to do cutouts if
the area to be cutout contains no areas smaller then 1/8".
Can the 1/16" bit be used for cutouts?

[BobHill]

Jim,

The CW should cut that type of design out quite nicely. If you don't mind beveled edges of the cuts, then, sure the Carving bit would do the work as long as the wood isn't deep and heavy enough to cause damage from the torque. The machine asks for a bit to cut, but if you put something different in it's place, it really doesn't know the difference.

Bob

[Dan-Woodman]

You will get a lot smoother and more intricute cut with your scrollsaw. We're dealing with spiral upcut endmills here which tend to tear thin plywood grain .
Besides that if your wanting to cut lots of the baltic birch plywood pieces , stack five or six together and use that scrollsaw.

[Jim Sparks]

While I do use some Baltic Birch Plywood in my projects a great majority are made from 1/4 poplar. How would the CW work in solid woods for this type of fretwork.

[BobHill]

Jim,

When all is said and done, remember that the CarveWright is still "just" a router, so any wood that works well with a standard router will work as well in the CarveWright, except the cutting will be more exact than you can do by hand, and, of course, with a lot less work on your part.

Bob

[Digitalwoodshop]

I have thought of doing the same thing. The Carve Wright could do 90% of the work then you could go back and turn the rounded areas into crisp V cut areas with the Scroll Saw. Basically just notch the areas to provide for a more hand cut look. Saw a bunch of hand cut stuff last weekend at a Eagle Fest in my area. Talked to the guy and He hand cuts everything. I mentioned using a Laser Engraver and he said he had checked it out and the side of the cuts were brown from the burning with a laser. I agree. But to answer your question, I believe the Carve Wright would do a great job roughing them out and cutting your man hours of production time per piece.

Just my 2 cents. Still waiting for my unit. AL