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View Full Version : FIX for: Z-Axis error err E06-0313 during setup



Digitalwoodshop
05-23-2011, 10:56 PM
There is another thread on this but I wanted to bring it to a place where it might be looked at.... It is also posted in RED as I thought it was VERY IMPORTANT.

The Problem.... If you use a After Market Chuck and you get this error during Bit Checks with the 1/8 inch Cutting Bit.... YOUR CUTTING BIT IS TOO LONG...... That's IT.....

George "Mannwranglers" called me tonight and had posted in the other thread and His Bit length was 1.51 inches from the back of the Locking Ring where it would bump up against the ROCK Chuck and to the end of the cutting tip.

MY bit was 1.41 inches from back of lock ring to Cutting Tip....

He changed it while we were on the Phone and guess WHAT... It WORKED.....

The machine has been OPTIMIZED for the Bit Length of the CARVTITE......

I am doing LHR a BIG PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT HERE AND SAVING THEM A FEW PHONE CALLS A DAY POSTING THIS.....

They tightened up the window of Bit Length.... I bet they never expected it to cause the Phone to Ring off the Hook.... Your Welcome...

AL Who.

skeeterman
06-10-2011, 11:38 AM
I agree with your solution Al, had same error for a couple of projects that i have carved before checked the ffc cable and nothing came from it
changed the bit length and wala it worked
thanks for all uou do Al
steve

Digitalwoodshop
06-10-2011, 11:57 AM
Your Welcome !!!!

Glad someone could use it...

AL

lostinthefrost
06-14-2011, 09:22 AM
Thanks AL!
Its been 1 month since I used my machine, but I did update the software on both of my cards. This is the first project I have done and its gave me that error on 6 attempts. It was getting old. I am also having it cut deeper of and on when it's not suppose to

mtylerfl
06-14-2011, 12:29 PM
The Problem.... If you use a After Market Chuck and you get this error during Bit Checks with the 1/8 inch Cutting Bit.... YOUR CUTTING BIT IS TOO LONG...... That's IT.....George "Mannwranglers" called me tonight and had posted in the other thread and His Bit length was 1.51 inches from the back of the Locking Ring where it would bump up against the ROCK Chuck and to the end of the cutting tip. MY bit was 1.41 inches from back of lock ring to Cutting Tip....He changed it while we were on the Phone and guess WHAT... It WORKED

Hi AL,

It's good to reiterate the mounting of a bit in the Rock Chuck. LG had discovered that a bit mounted with over 1.50" sticking out of the chuck could cause Z problems (he posted about it in December 2009). He also said that would cause a problem for ANY chuck, not just the Rock.



The machine has been OPTIMIZED for the Bit Length of the CARVTITE......
They tightened up the window of Bit Length.... I bet they never expected it to cause the Phone to Ring off the Hook.... Your Welcome...

The folks at LHR (techs and engineers) are aware that Rock users can possibly be prone to have a higher incidence of Z-axis errors, depending on how the user mounts the bit.

When I wrote the Tips & Tricks article regarding the CarveTight introduction, there were some blow-by-blow product comparisons in the original draft of the article, along with cautions, etc. using third-party chucks. But, we decided instead to make a more "generic" statement...here's the excerpt from the article:

"The CarveTight is directly supported by CarveWright themselves, so if you ever have a question or problem, it can easily be addressed “in-house”. It can be very challenging for a support tech to help troubleshoot issues if a customer is using a third-party chuck on the machine. This “variable” can and does hinder the process in some cases because the tech (and the customer) cannot always be certain whether an issue is related to, or caused by, a third-party product or not. It is better to use factory-authorized parts on your machine, especially critical components such as the spindle, chuck and bits."




I am doing LHR a BIG PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT HERE AND SAVING THEM A FEW PHONE CALLS A DAY POSTING THIS

Yes, you certainly are! I recall I had a sudden slew of calls from folks experiencing Z-axis errors a couple years or so ago. Took me awhile, but finally put two-and-two together...they were all using the Rock Chuck. At the time, we (I) blamed bit-slip for the problem and the recommendation was to re-mount the bit in the Rock more securely. That seemed to work for everyone - at least I don't remember anyone it did not work for. However, I suspect now that most of the problem was actually due to the longer length of the Rock causing the bit to stick down too far and the "more secure remounting" of the bit probably resulted in the user choking up the bit higher in the chuck which was the real solution to the problem (note that some actually WERE bit slippage issues).

Digitalwoodshop
06-14-2011, 07:58 PM
Some days it's the Paint Fumes talking..... I did not remember this same tip was posted in 2009.... Call it "When a Senior Moment and Ego Collide" The results can be messy.... Remember that Egg and Frying Pan Comercial.... This is your Ego (Brain)... This is your Ego (Brain) on Drugs.... LOL....

The older I get the BETTER I WAS.......

Had Lunch with ChrisAlb today as He was in town for a few days. He is doing well... He brought his Harley and sure enough.... It rained for 2 hours while we shot the breeze at lunch..... I am thinking He got home dry but not sure....

AL

mtylerfl
06-15-2011, 09:11 AM
Hi AL,

There are so many things that bear repeating from time-to-time and new people coming along would likely never encounter (or know about) those older posts. I've even seriously considered writing Tips & Tricks that review the common techniques that most of us "ol' timers" take for granted. THANK YOU for every one of your helpful posts...you are a treasure-trove of information and much appreciated! I personally have referred back to multiple posts of yours for info and photo documentation on countless occasions - very handy indeed!

So glad to hear you could spend some time with Chris. Wish I could have been there too - that would have been fun to catch up with him!

WCallister
08-09-2011, 01:23 AM
My machine is driving me up a wall. It's a reconditioned, and it already broke the switch for the motor cut-off (less than 12 hours). Not a big deal, I did a temporary work-around until I get the replacement wires and switch they are sending me.

Now, I did a couple more small projects, nothing major, and they did fine, although the bit seemed to develop some wobble, and it was chipping out the fine details on the carving. I assumed pilot error on this, and ensured the bit is tight, and properly installed in the quick change adapter.

Now, I am at 25 hours of use, but I have not gotten any completed products for the past 5-8 of those hours. They all seem to cut out part way through. There is no consistent times, it is sometimes in the board measuring, other times in the initial spin-up of the bit, and sometimes after it starts carving (sometimes almost immediately, others half way through the carve). I get all three of the axis errors, again at no consistent point. Also, the machine seems to shut down within a few seconds of displaying the error screen. I do not have it set to auto-shutoff. I followed the online troubleshooting guide for "intermittent power" and found that everything underneath appeared to be well connected, but after it would start running a board through (again, at various stages) it would display an axis error for a couple seconds and shut down. I could not get it to re-start, except if I were to jostle the machine a bit. This has led me to assume a faulty connection somewhere, which is specifically affecting the motor, but ultimately the whole machine.

Any help or recommendations on this would be extremely helpful. Thanks.

chebytrk
09-01-2011, 03:35 PM
OK............ here we go again............ the infamous....... Error Code E06-313. It's on the initial setup of a project (using a board .5x5x24). Measuring of the board go fine with the CW. Asks for the 1/8 cutting bit. Does fine on the pad side then goes to the kick plate and all is fine. Returns to the pad side, goes up & down by the brass roller and all is fine. Goes to the other side of the board and goes down... all fine. Raises up and moves over to touch the metal.. touches it and LOCKS in the down position (and it snickers I know) and spits out the Error Code. I've cleaned and recleaned everything. I've changed cutting bits even though I've been using the one forever. I pushed the bit up in to the chuck (have a Rock Chuck) adapter till it's flush with the top part of the adapter that goes in to the Rock Chuck. I've pulled the bit out making it longer (just to see if it MIGHT make a difference) and still get the same error code. I've changed boards (using masking tape on all) and checked to make sure they're flat, straight and all is good. Is there anything else I can try? I tried cussing, but that just made me bang my finger so I apologized to the man upstairs for doing that. So........ I ask help from all the Obie Wahn Kanobies out in CW Forum land......... please. JerryB

Digitalwoodshop
09-02-2011, 12:42 PM
This would look like a too long bit where the "Current Sensitivity" is not yet turned on as the bit touches the right hand sliding guide plate.....

I would format the card and load the latest Designer. Could be your program on the card is bad.... Measure the distance from the bit tip to the bottom of the Rock and post the results... Also look and be sure your ROCK is screwed on Tight... IF if backed off.... It would make the 1/8th inch bit longer.....

Another in a long line of WAG's.... Wild AL Guesses.....

As a Side Note....

I almost rolled my 96 Explorer yesterday... Christine came to visit.... As in the Car from the "Dark Side".... For a second time.... The Gas Peddle Stuck to the FLOOR and would not return.... Fought it for a mile with no where to turn off... Hit all the Cruise Control buttons thinking it was the problem... as suspected last time in April... No Luck.... Stood on the brakes... Smoked..... It actually shifted down into 2nd to help push to 55 MPH... Into Neural and the engine stuck at 5000 RPM's..... Rolled thought a Stop Sign at a T intersection with Crossing Traffic.... and into the deserted parking lot of a closed grocery store 3 miles from home. Into neural and park.... Chirping the tires through Reverse.... Shut it off.... Thanking my Luck and not Pannicing... Heart going 55 MPH..... There was some Grass Lawns I could have bailed out in.... But I thought with the grass, I would loose control, spin and Roll.... The Paved Lot was a better choice except for crossing live traffic...


Started the Troubleshooting.....

Removed the Throttle Cable from the Speed Control Motor.... Thought I had hit "Resume" last April when I pulled to the side of the road to let another car pass on a 1.5 car wide back road.... The shoulder was still soft from the winter... As soon as I got back on the road I felt the acceleration to 55 MPH in a 25 Zone and fought it... Same thing.... But this time going from Neural to Drive and burning rubber it all stopped..... SO my first thing was to remove the Speed control Cable at the Motor and start it back up... Full Throttle.... Shut down...

The Gas Peddle Cable and Throttle Body is hidden under a plastic shield. Had a hard time poking and looking.... Had a Dowel and saw it was stuck at fill throdle... Pushed it back...

Started it and was low idle pressed on the Gas and again stuck 3/4..... Shut down....

Ended up working it about 50 times. loosening it up..... It "Appeared" to be back to normal.... Drove the 3 miles home at almost an idle.... Ready to shut off the ignition at the next time.... NO more Run Away "Christine" Roller Coaster.....

Made it home... Let it cool down.... Was Still Shakking... Had lunch to let the Adrenalin work it's way back down....

Removed the cover.... As now seen in the Picture... The White Road Salt Corrosion on the working parts of the Throttle Body, Return Spring, Parts.....

Popped off the Cruise Control Linkage and bent it down and to the left as seen in the picture.... I have a Door Ajar Light due to a bad switch in my Hatch so Cruise Control Should be Disabled anyway... But still suspected it as a reason for the full throddle... Removing it forever removes that possibility again.

Pulled the Rubber intake off and found a build up of Carbon in the Throat and Butter Fly Plate.... Cleaned it with some CF-50 Lubricant without Silicone. Was BLACK and Dirty.... Then I see a sticker.... DO NOT Clean inside of the Throat...... Later on line searching this problem a Mechanic tells someone concerned about seeing the sticker.... Well it's a 96.... It's TIME to Clean IT..... 90% of the answers to this problem were Carbon inside and the Throttle Plate Sticking Full OPEN as in my problem.... Lubricated all the other stuff with the linkage and cable.

Test Drive today delivering the 911 sign from yesterday was GOOD..... I was ready this time to just shut it OFF this time.... Not more FOOLISHLY Riding it out trying to fix it.... This is how Pilots get killed..... EGO... I can save it....

So that is my Story.... Glad to still be Breathing.... I won't be so foolish next time....

Talked to the Local Ford Service Manager and She was helpful having seen this before.... She said for a 96, She would be hesitant bringing it in for Service as in the process of the repair they would usually find more things and it gets expensive and the will Customer give them a bad review.... I saw that last spring when I had the Brakes Serviced and the Bleeder Snapped Off and had to replace more parts... Had them replace both sides....

Should have searched this problem on line last April.... So as a Public Service Announcement for my Carving Friends with Fuel Injection and a 1990's Vehicle to have there mechanic look for Carbon and Corrosion in the Throttle Body..... It is recommended to inspect every 6 months..... And don't be a Hero.... Just shut it OFF and don't pump your brakes.... Just coast to a stop....

If you put it in Neural and let it rev to 5000 RPM's it could Blow UP......

AL

WCallister
09-02-2011, 01:11 PM
Wow, Al, glad you're OK. Sounds like you need to add "WAS" to your "WAG." As in, "Wild Al Stories." You need to be more careful. There are a whole lot of us newbie CarveWright users who would be completely lost without you. LOL. Anyways, thanks again for all your help with my CW issues, and glad you're OK.

mtylerfl
09-02-2011, 02:23 PM
Wow, again! Glad you made it and found the source of the problem - thankfully, you will never have a repeat performance of that hair-raising ride! All the Best to You, AL.

Digitalwoodshop
09-02-2011, 10:12 PM
Wild AL.... That's Funny..... Tim, a Retired Navy Master Chief and Former Co worker at Sony San Diego in our "Making Picture Tubes" Days 1995-99 called me after I sent him the Story about my Wild Ride... He had some Great Fixes for the problem. He ran the area before me making Picture Tubes and I would call him for HELP from time to time fixing MY equipment... IF My Line Stopped at some point we would be packing off over 250 Picture Tubes an Hour as His area had a 4 hour Oven... SO we had in excess of 1000 CRT's on the way before we could stop loading.... So We worked well with each other.... The Stories we could tell.... He is as good or Better than me fixing stuff...

We were in the middle of a 12 hour production line running 24/7 weeks on end..... I was at hour 6 and 7.....

We talked about Laser Engravers for a project He had in Mind and I suggested the CW was a better FIT..... So He is looking for a Machine for here this weekend.. I hope he joins the Forum...

AL

lynnfrwd
09-02-2011, 10:42 PM
Let me know if you know what his username might be and I'll advance him through to a registered user.

lynnfrwd
09-02-2011, 10:48 PM
I hope he's midevilone. Kind of scary if it's not!!! Taken a chance here.

Darthmaul1964
11-01-2011, 10:44 AM
Ok. I am getting this same error but still have to origianal QC chuck and bits that I have used since I got the machine over two years ago. I did reformat my memory card and am using designer 1.179 build 9174 (have not upgraded designer since my last carve). It fails when z moved down on the brass roller side.

Darthmaul1964
11-01-2011, 11:03 AM
Ok. After reading some other posts about this error I did a y & z sensor check. They were fine. I took the tool back out (tapered carving bit) and made sure the socket was cleaned out (shoved my finger up in it and cleared out any junk) and remouted the tool. I then tried to run the program again and no error. Either its very touchy about having a bit of gunk in the QC (didn't have much but did get my finger a little dirty) or my machine has gremlins. I tried 4 times before cleaning out QC and running sensor test. Then one time after and its a go. Man, this machine is touchy.

Digitalwoodshop
11-01-2011, 08:30 PM
IS there a Hole in the Plastic holder for the Brass Rolller.... AS in the bit was still spinning when it made it to the plastic plate???

Epoxy will fix it...

AL

Allen Cloud
11-24-2011, 12:12 PM
Hi, I just replaced the QC truck with the carve tight truck and fired it up only to get a error code z-truck stall error code E06-313. Help! Also there was a small flat ribbon on the old QC which the factory rep said i could discard (hope that wasn't a mistake)

AskBud
11-24-2011, 12:21 PM
Hi, I just replaced the QC truck with the carve tight truck and fired it up only to get a error code z-truck stall error code E06-313. Help! Also there was a small flat ribbon on the old QC which the factory rep said i could discard (hope that wasn't a mistake)When you get the stall, what bit is in the chuck?
AskBud

Digitalwoodshop
11-24-2011, 12:49 PM
This is what the cable that is to be discarded in the Truck looks like. The Bad Bearing Picture...

So it comes down to Mechanical or Electrical.... Mechanical be sure the Truck can move up and down easily... Could be a Z Motor not mounted correctly. Or Electrical.... Did you plug the servo motor plug in 180 degrees out?

Is the FFC Cable seated correctly...

I have concerns... Can you look over your FFC or the big flat Cable that brings power to the Z and brings back encoder data.

Make sure you don't have a mix of 18 and 14 pin parts...

AL


In the Old Z Picture, it is a 18 pin not a 16 pin...

Allen Cloud
11-24-2011, 01:11 PM
This may be the problem. I only replaced the truck, no circuit boards. The rep from cw said I needed new cables and sold them to me so they are on the way. I was just checking to see if there's anything else I need to be aware of.

Allen Cloud
11-24-2011, 03:11 PM
As I fire up the machine there is no movement of the Z-truck at all. Is this because I didn't replace any cables, just removed the inner flat ribbon and tried to adjust the rollers on the Z-track up and Down. I loaded a board picked a previous project and then get the error code. So as new owner of used machine I'm not familiar with all the adjustments or maintenance. I hope I'm not ruining my machine by replacing these Items myself.

Digitalwoodshop
11-24-2011, 07:46 PM
No Turkey Day Here.... 4 hours into cooking the Turkey the Gas Valve in the Oven went bad.... LOL... So it was Roasted Chicken from the other day and Grumble soup.... LOL...

OK... Just changing the Truck should not cause this problem as the OLD Circuit Board in the OLD Truck is no longer used and new trucks come without the circuit board and even the new castings have some of the holes filled in.

SO as for the Z Truck not working, the first question is???? Does the truck with the power OFF move from limit to limit up and down?

Yes, OK next check and see if the Z Encoder data is working.... Machine on, options, sensor data, and call up the Z Data... It will be 0000 until you move the truck....

SO let us know what this gives us.

To ANYONE getting new FFC Cables form LHR, they should have asked you question to be sure you don't have a Early "A" Version with the OLD 18 Pin FFC Cable setup.... See Pictures ABOVE..... The Latest 14 pin cable plugged into the old 18 pin Circuit boards will cause a very expensive Short Circuit.... To the Tune of over $500.00... New Power Supply and New Computer.... SO KNOW what version you have...

The next step could be to buy a new Z Motor......

AL


Just had another thought.... It is Possible that the new Truck was shipped with a Frozen Rail Bearing.... Parts is parts..... Check... My hand you can move it... Under Power no go....