Low head pressure

[63falcon757]

a washer in my crank clutch broke reciently. CW sent me a replacement part in the mail and i installed it and during testing I broke 2 strait cutting bits. I ordered 2 more bits and looked in the hardware manual for help. I found the section on head pressure and after following the manual could not get the head pressure above 50lbs. I also bought a new digital scale. I called CW and they sent me links to 2 pdf's, one which was a copy of the hardware manual, and the second was a head leveling pdf. I followed the pdf's and still cant get the head pressure above 50 after applying white lithem grease and oil to the screws and poles. I did notice that the lead screw on the crank side has a nut top and a jam nut on the bottom, that is tight, but moves as one. or lets say its not as tight as the 2 on the other side. other than that I am out of ideas on how to get the pressure up 25 more lbs.

[Digitalwoodshop]

It is my experience with low head pressure and the handle clicking before it should is a sign that the drive train is bogging down and loosing pressure at the head because it had to over come binding in the drive train.

So Here is what I recommend.... Remove the far side of the machine metal panel. Get something like Liquid Wrench and after laying down plastic bags and rags carefully wipe the smooth rails to remove stuck on lube and spray some on top of the smooth rails so it runs down into the inner bearing surface. Your goal is to remove old lube inside the bearing sleeves. Crank the head up and down while doing this... Since Liquid Wrench is a solvent, use carefully to not get it in the lower part of the machine and make a FIRE HAZARD.... In fact, I would lay the machine on it's back, or Muffler and using Compressed Air Blow out as much sawdust as you can before you start.

Also spray the Liquid Wrench into the area on top of the head that passes through the threaded part that raises and lowers the head... Old sticky lubrication inside that nut coupled with Sawdust makes for a Drive train that will DRAG...

When done, wipe up as much of the Liquid Wrench as possible... Then use the Lubrication of Choice to lubricate the rails and jacking screws..... Some love Dry Lube.... ME.. I am a Molly Man.... I use Chain Lube with Molly.... Same as the Flex Shaft... Since I have Dust Collection I don't have much of a problem with sawdust sticking to the lube.

Before you start this project install a wide board in your machine and using your Z Data at Options.... and a bit.. touch the board on the left and right and look at the numbers.... A Un Level Head will also give you the same problem as the whole head is binding on 4 posts and 2 jacking screws...

Then as part of your cleaning the sawdust from the machine when it is laying on it's back, muffler side... Take the bottom off..... POWER UNLUGGED... And check the 4 Screws going into the bottom of the Smooth rails for Tightness.... And blow the dust out of the Power Supply.

GOOD LUCK...

AL

[mtylerfl]

a washer in my crank clutch broke reciently. CW sent me a replacement part in the mail and i installed it and during testing I broke 2 strait cutting bits. I ordered 2 more bits and looked in the hardware manual for help. I found the section on head pressure and after following the manual could not get the head pressure above 50lbs. I also bought a new digital scale. I called CW and they sent me links to 2 pdf's, one which was a copy of the hardware manual, and the second was a head leveling pdf. I followed the pdf's and still cant get the head pressure above 50 after applying white lithem grease and oil to the screws and poles. I did notice that the lead screw on the crank side has a nut top and a jam nut on the bottom, that is tight, but moves as one. or lets say its not as tight as the 2 on the other side. other than that I am out of ideas on how to get the pressure up 25 more lbs.

Hi Capt. Jesse,

AL is pointing you in the right direction - a good cleaning will certainly help. Just want to add that a cold shop will give you fits as far as the head pressure is concerned, too...especially if you use the white lithium grease on the four posts...gets real stiff and 'gummy' when the environment is very cool. I don't use the lithium on the posts anymore - wiped it all off (after spraying with WD-40, which I use as a good cleanser moreso than a lubricant). After the posts were cleaned, I use only Dry Lube - brandname is called TDL - the acronym stands for The Dry Lube) purchased at my local Lowes and Home Depot - but I imagine just about any Dry Lube will do fine) on the posts as well as the hinge for the bit plate swing-out arm. I give them a squirt before every project.

[63falcon757]

thankx guys that was extreamly helpful. I got the pressure in the rite range now. I started 3 new projects and now it seams like one of my belt drives is jerking a little. any idea what I can do to resolve this? and when i do long projects like the 66in piece the board seems to travle away from the metal guide rails a bout 1/16-1/8. is this normal?

[63falcon757]

yep im definatly hearing some clicking sound when the left belt drive moves. and its jerkn. any ideas?

[CarverJerry]

check and see if the belt didn't get rolled under on the edge.

CJ

[Digitalwoodshop]

Clicking and a Jerking.... Broken teeth on the gear.... Designed to snap a $5.00 gear rather than burn out a $100.00 motor or $300.00 computer....

AL

[cnsranch]

yep im definatly hearing some clicking sound when the left belt drive moves. and its jerkn. any ideas?

My bet is that you're missing some teeth on the X-Drive gear assembly. Download the PDF for replacing the gears, and follow it to take the machine down to where you can see the gears. If some are gone, you'll have to replace the assembly. Good news - I can replace them, so you can, too, and they're not expensive - $14 plus shipping.

[63falcon757]

yes i think your correct on the missing teeth. I found http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?18077-Low-head-pressure&p=152563&posted=1#post152563. which shows the gear and missing tooth. I think that this was caused by a heavy sled and workpiece. anyone know that the max weight limit should be so I can avoid this in the future?

[63falcon757]

ok, great responces guys. you really make a fustrating job easier. so i found out that the gears are rated to stay under 25lbs. my sled alone was 23lbs. so I think this is my initial problem. I will definatly be redesigning my sled to weigh less. now to take it down and get to the gear so I can order it. Thankx again

[cnsranch]

Dude - what kind of sled did you build that weighs 23 lbs.?

[63falcon757]

i found some plans for a sled on the fourm and replicated it. it worked well on smaller projects, but i didnt take in account the weight factor when upscaling the sled. im building longboards skateboards. i just got off the phone with CW and got a new one comming it was the second white gear that was stripped. one more notch to learning the hardway. I fixed the drifting problem I was having by tighting the adjustable guide plate. damn sure appreciate you guys responces.

[Digitalwoodshop]

That guide plate should never touch the board... Be about a Quarter Coin thickness away..... Just needed for thickness checks...

IT can cause a broken X Gear it the board binds.... Plus a rolled under belt it hard to see... At the keypad side left belt...

AL

[lynnfrwd]

yes i think your correct on the missing teeth. I found http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?18077-Low-head-pressure&p=152563&posted=1#post152563. which shows the gear and missing tooth. I think that this was caused by a heavy sled and workpiece. anyone know that the max weight limit should be so I can avoid this in the future?

Maximum suggested for machine is 20 lbs, Jessie.