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sendler
01-11-2007, 11:58 AM
Can the design software make the cutout, flush mount, and drill the mounting holes for this speaker?
http://www.tymphany.com/datasheet/printview.php?id=12

BobHill
01-11-2007, 12:01 PM
Doing a little advertising, are we?

Edited: Apprarently you didn't intend this for advertising purposes and thus I have to apologize for the mistake on my part. I guess it seemed so simple a task and threads and examples of what the machine would establish that if it's just to mount the speaker that it appeared not to be a legit question. Once again I apologize for being mistaken and the comment.

Bob Hill

David M.
01-11-2007, 01:55 PM
sendler, the machine can do this with ease, and adjust for to the assorted sizes of speakers that you might use.

bassnaholic
01-11-2007, 02:11 PM
Like This?

sendler
01-11-2007, 02:42 PM
I was able to get that far with the trial software but some of the drivers that I would want to use have flats on two or four sides and the mounting holes aren't evenly spaced around the circumference. The cut out would be circular though unless I was dealing with a ribbon tweeter which is rectangular with rounded corners ect. I appreciate your feedback as I am trying to get an idea of the capabilities of the Carvewright before purchasing one, only to find out that it's software can't do the cad layouts that I need. Follow the link and scroll down to see the technical drawing for an example of what I am trying to do.
http://www.tymphany.com/datasheet/printview.php?id=12

bassnaholic
01-11-2007, 03:19 PM
Try this file and see if its what you are looking for.
I played around with the make spline tool and the change form tool to get the outside rad. I started with a square to get the shape.
Looks like you will need more info on the screw hole placement.

RobertP
01-11-2007, 03:39 PM
Sendler, its good to see another Audio guy here! I plan on using my Carvewright in the future for a DIY speaker project, I plan on making the Wilson Watt Puppy clones. I thought this machine would be perfect for speaker building. You ever hang out over at the HTguide?

pkunk
01-11-2007, 03:41 PM
Try this file and see if its what you are looking for.
I played around with the make spline tool and the change form tool to get the outside rad. I started with a square to get the shape.
Looks like you will need more info on the screw hole placement.
If you want to post a Carvewright file it is not a JPG but the mpc file(the one you get when you 'save as'. Then anyone of us can open it, & work with it or evaluate it.

bassnaholic
01-11-2007, 04:11 PM
[/quote]If you want to post a Carvewright file it is not a JPG but the mpc file(the one you get when you 'save as'. Then anyone of us can open it, & work with it or evaluate it

actually there are both files there Jpeg and MPC

pkunk
01-11-2007, 04:20 PM
Sorry, I guess I didn't scroll down far enough. :oops:

sendler
01-11-2007, 05:00 PM
That would be perfect. You make that look easy. Is there a tutorial in the designware that would help a newbie learn it? All that is lacking in your drawing would be to measure the circumference of the bolt circle (missing from that drawing for some reason) and describe the angles onto the design. If I can bug you again for your expertise, which tool would I use to draw the imaginary lines for the angle and why is the smallest hole tool set at 1/8 when I am using a 1/16 bit? I suppose that I can cut a 1/16 circle for the screw pilots.

sendler
01-11-2007, 05:10 PM
I post on Madisound, which used to be alot better until 2 months ago when the site went down while the servers were changed. Many people abandened it for Parts Express which is unfortunately ruled by a band of pro audio guys who think that all amps, cables, ect. sound the same, Audio Asylum, Yahoogroups DCX2496, and DIY audio. I'll have to start checking the HT forum.

bassnaholic
01-11-2007, 05:22 PM
I wish I could be of more help to you but I too am new at this. I just happen to run across another post on making circles/ovals. Im trying the software to see if the machine would be as useful as I hope it to be.


Best of luck

Brett

wongo7p
01-06-2010, 04:20 PM
Try this file and see if its what you are looking for.
I played around with the make spline tool and the change form tool to get the outside rad. I started with a square to get the shape.
Looks like you will need more info on the screw hole placement.
I know this is an old thread, but could you explain how you created this? I cannot figure out how to create the cutout and the shoulder together. Either one I can do alone, but how do you get them together?

Digitalwoodshop
01-06-2010, 04:39 PM
Use the circle or oval tool and make the size you need and in the place you need. Then select each circle and the Cut Path function. It assigns the 1/8 inch bit. I would select something like .27 for depth of cut for a few passes. The machine can cut it in one pass but has been known to snap bits doing it.... Fiber Board with it's GLUE is hard to cut.... The machine feed rate is setup to cut soft pine in my opinion....

Remember you can only cut a 14.5 inch wide board without gluing them together.

Since this is your 4th post, I would study the Tips and Tricks about using a sled or carrier board. Also learn about the 7 inch rule of wood with the machine. If one end of the board comes out from under the roller and is being held by only one roller.... It is like riding a bike with one hand... Most of the time it is no problem but the machine is known to snap that $40.00 plus $15.00 Shipping Cut Path bit when the board is only held by one roller as the board can pop up.... That will kill your proffit.... And Pi$$ you off...

Yes it can be done... Use Masking tape too on the bottom where the brass roller touches the board... a Slipping Brass Roller will also break the bit...

We ALL want you to succeed but just be warned you need to know what can trip you up.

Good Luck,

AL

Metalhead781
01-06-2010, 08:05 PM
I still wish they'd program and offer a .25" spiral cutting bit that would automatically run as a little slower speed specifically for man made materials. I've been doing some projects in mdf even though i know what it's doing to my bit. I'm also happy lowes will be carrying carvewright bits in a few days.

thanks
MH

will george
01-07-2010, 10:38 AM
Maybe off the subject a bit, but over the holidays, I made four speaker mounting plates for 10 inch subwoofers. A free job for my neighbor. He wanted them mounted to 1 inch thick Baltic Birch Plywood.

I do not remember the brand name of the speakers but they came with a full sized paper mounting template. I scanned the pattern into photoshop (not the expensive version) and then imported the transparent background file into CW designer to use as a background image for the drill holes. I made my first carve (on scrap wood) for the mounting holes only. Somewhere along the line, the scaling became a bit off. Sure glad I tried on scrap wood first!

Anyway, after I found out how much the scale was off, and in what direction, all went well after that. I used the designer Layout/Snap options to get the mounting holes correct. For the speaker cutout I used a different 'Snap grid'. I did not try to (Can I?) carve everything throught 1 inch thick material.

I have to admit that I have a shop made Overarm Pin router made from a very old Popular Mechanics Mag. Made of wood for the router mounting and it WORKS!

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/workshop/1274466.html

I used my CarveWright carvings as the template for my Pin router and drill press (Once I knew everything was OK!).

Metalhead781
01-07-2010, 11:01 AM
I had an odd hole position that didn't line up with snap. i just made a rectangle with the dimensions for the four holes then snapped to object. Works great! then just center it with snap to the oval or circle.

MH

will george
01-07-2010, 05:34 PM
I used several different grids to line up things...

James RS
01-07-2010, 06:03 PM
I built some horns for my speaker cabs with the CW http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p115/cryche/0908091618.jpg http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p115/cryche/hornsides.jpg

Scott Amsler
12-26-2011, 10:27 PM
I do a lot of these too. Something I'm having a bit of a problem with, is that it carves the region for the entire outside circle. So I have to wait for it to carve down the entire center part, just for it to cut it out.

What am I doing wrong?

AskBud
12-26-2011, 10:54 PM
I do a lot of these too. Something I'm having a bit of a problem with, is that it carves the region for the entire outside circle. So I have to wait for it to carve down the entire center part, just for it to cut it out.

What am I doing wrong?You opted to make the recess, using a carve region, which could better be accomplished with a vector cut using straight bit.

It will depend upon what size bits you have, as to how to set up your design. Do you have a 3/8 or 1/2 inch straight bit?
AskBud

Scott Amsler
12-26-2011, 11:24 PM
I just have the standard 1/8 cutting bit and the 1/16th carve bit.

But if there is an easier way to do this, I will get the straight bits.

AskBud
12-26-2011, 11:29 PM
I just have the standard 1/8 cutting bit and the 1/16th carve bit.

But if there is an easier way to do this, I will get the straight bits.You can improve your time and save the 1/8 bit for the fine cuts, by getting the other sizes.

AskBud

AskBud
12-27-2011, 07:01 AM
In my test I assigned a 1/2 inch straight bit, to the outer circle, with an inset. The 1/8 bit is still used for the cut-out. The machine process will only take about ten minutes on my new design.
AskBud