Newbie questions about jigs

[mikemotherway]

When uploading a file, sometimes a message comes up recommending caution be used.... use manual or automatic jig. I've seen in a couple tutorials that it's ok to ignore this because the real board is larger than the virtual board.

Can someone help me understand when it's ok to ignore the warning? how that works?
hoping to avoid problems.

many thanks
Mike

[AskBud]

When uploading a file, sometimes a message comes up recommending caution be used.... use manual or automatic jig. I've seen in a couple tutorials that it's ok to ignore this because the real board is larger than the virtual board.

Can someone help me understand when it's ok to ignore the warning? how that works?
hoping to avoid problems.

many thanks
Mike
Always read the entire message. It will usually tell you why it is concerned.
Most times, your design will have something too close to an edge. The designer does not know if you are going to be using larger stock than your design. Therefore, LHR wants you to think about leaving enough rail, top and bottom, and that you have no problem with the carves near either end due to the stock leaving the compression rollers. Most times you will just select Ignore, as you have engineered (thought out) the process to avoid problems!

You will also get warnings should you design a project thinner than 1/2", and have cut-outs and other deep carves. Your option screen give you the ability to override this warning. When you place this project stock in the machine, use a sled (carrier board). The unit will see that the loaded sled and stock is much thicker than designed and will ask if you wish to carve the "Project" or the "Board". In this case, you wish only to carve the Project as you don't want to sacrifice your sled.
AskBud

[want2learn]

ya, as long as the actual board to be carved is gonna be bigger than the actual carving it should be ok, ya need enough board to stay in contact with the rollers. When it asks if you want it to scale to size, that's when your going to have problems. It usually can be avoided by loading a larger board.

[mikemotherway]

ok... so I'm making a box lid and want to edge route the piece..... if I'm using 3/4 inch stock and have 7" extra in length. can I through cut (adding tabs) and edge route as long as I leave 1/2 or 3/4 inches to compensate for where the brass roller is? I'm trying to understand the "danger zones". I'm using 5 1/2" pine and wondering how effectively I can use this width board to make a lid. Is there concern coming to the side of the board opposite the brass roller?

I've been reading through tips and tricks, forum, tutorials. lots to digest. thanks

[jaroot]

Well if you don't edge route it with the CW then you can pretty much use the entire 5 1/2" wide for your lid. I personally do not use the CW for edge profiling as I can do it faster/cheaper with a router/router table. When it comes to edge routing I can do it with the router table in about 30 sec vs several minutes with the CW. This saves alot of wear and tear on the CW also. With the CW its all about Cut Hours. The more Cut Hours the sooner you will be replacing parts.


ok... so I'm making a box lid and want to edge route the piece..... if I'm using 3/4 inch stock and have 7" extra in length. can I through cut (adding tabs) and edge route as long as I leave 1/2 or 3/4 inches to compensate for where the brass roller is? I'm trying to understand the "danger zones". I'm using 5 1/2" pine and wondering how effectively I can use this width board to make a lid. Is there concern coming to the side of the board opposite the brass roller?

I've been reading through tips and tricks, forum, tutorials. lots to digest. thanks