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Jeff_Birt
01-10-2007, 10:43 PM
I've been searching through past posts trying to gain some insight into two sided carving. I found the biplane files that the CW guys posted, which has carvings on both sides of the planes body but I cannot find an explanation of how the workpiece is registerd when changing sides.

Do you flip the stock about the X-axis and the machine then finds the end and calculates where to start carving?

BobHill
01-11-2007, 09:03 AM
Jeff,

Since the machine will measure your wood and the first side is cut so the complete wood is still there after it's finished and the reverse side is on the same wood (but on the other side) if you put the wood in properly when it's measured again it'll do the registration for you accurately. It's that accurate a machine. As I've mentioned before, I've stopped the machine in the middle of a project, removed the wood, then put it back and started the project over (too bad you can't jog it to a position and have it pick up again) and the machine did the remeasuring and started carving all over again, except since it was already carved, it went through the steps, yet the bit never did any further cutting; it just moved the sawdust from the previous carve until it got to where I had stopped it, then it continued without a hickup or false move. That's pretty accurate, I'd say.

Bob

Jeff_Birt
01-11-2007, 09:24 AM
Thanks Bob, so when you flip the stock over you do so front to back, i.e. the left-right side of the stock are in teh same orientation?

BobHill
01-11-2007, 09:43 AM
Jeff,

In the software you have an "F" and "B" icon which indicates Front and Back side of your wood project. In either of your sides you also have a center horizontal and vertical guide ... for centering work. Thus on the F side you can Control C (copy) any selection, click on B and then Control V to copy it to the back side, then reverse the image and it'll match the front in reverse. Do your revers design to the requried accuracy and when you save the design you'll also be saving both sides and the machine will automatically register to the wood.

Bob

Jeff_Birt
01-11-2007, 09:46 AM
Bob, what I'm asking about is how to flip the wood on the machine.

BobHill
01-11-2007, 10:08 AM
Jeff, horizontally. Right to left or left to right will do it.

(edited) And since I failed to mention how that is established (for me) it's left to right as looking directly at the cover and across the way the wood moves.

Thanks, Pkunk.

Bob

pkunk
01-11-2007, 10:26 AM
Jeff, flip it L-R not end for end.

Aaron B
01-11-2007, 12:39 PM
The easiest way I remember is the part/side that is touching the gold guide roller will be flipped so that it is now on top and and farthest away from the guide roller.

Jeff_Birt
01-17-2007, 11:29 PM
In an effort to thoroughly flog a dead horse…I created a design (and after struggling for an hour trying to figure out how to scale it to a different board size), all the objects in the board design are located under one main group (needed to scale them all as group). I ‘Select all in group’ and then Ctrl-C, flip to the back side, Ctrl-V and I have a copy of everything on the front side on the back, but it is all upside down w.r.t. the front. I cannot, for-the-life-of-me, figure out how to rotate this whole group 180 to line it up with the front. Any suggestions welcome.

:? :?

HighTechOkie
01-18-2007, 11:08 AM
I would think the Mirror command would work. Mirror Vertical, then Mirror Horizontal. Delete the images that are no longer needed.

Rob

Jeff_Birt
01-18-2007, 03:54 PM
Mirroring would indeed work except when you delete the master the mirrored copy is also deleted. I guess I'll just run it through on a fixture, flipping the board L-R and telling the machine to center on length.

buxtor
03-19-2019, 09:38 AM
Aaron, yours is the only answer that makes any sense to me (a total noobie with the CW). I have a simple carve I'm doing with a piece of custom floor trim between my kitchen and living room with uneven horizontal mating surfaces to the trim. The top of the trim has a "shee-shee, foo-foo" type of pretty top that is a graduated domed effect. HOWEVER COMMA! I'm not as trusting as most and am going to try a super short sample first, as to ascertain just how the opposing side cut is situated on the board. Sure I could just "center both" the damned thing and come out fine, but for future carving, I'd like to know where an off center, two sided carve will place the second side.

Digitalwoodshop
03-21-2019, 07:10 PM
Jeff Brit that is a name I have not seen in Years....

The Board Width in Designer is critical in my opinion when you flip the board over. Since the measurement is based on the Brass Roller Edge of the belt.

So what I am saying is the Physical and the Designer Board Width must be the same. Because you are going to Roll or flip the board starting on the back.

I would put your board in the machine and let it measure the width. Even to get it to measure start a project with a bogus width and it will measure it and tell you what it found...

Use that width in Designer.

A test you could do is center a 1/8 inch drill hole on each side of the board offset slightly in X or length.

That would tell you QUICKLY if the machine is going to cut in the center of the board BOTH Sides.

AL

mtylerfl
03-24-2019, 08:48 PM
The easiest way to assure alignment for 2-sided carves is to select “Center” during the initial board measuring routine. This will center your project in both x and y axis for both sides, regardless whether the actual board placed in the machine is wider than your design layout.

Every project layout I create is slightly less wide than the actual board placed in the machine. This also has a side benefit of eliminating any potential scaling prompts as far as width is concerned. For example, a standard 1x12 Select Pine Board actually measures 11.24” wide. So, I layout the project on a 11”-wide board and choose to place on “Center” at the machine. No fuss, no muss!

Another important benefit/tip to achieve great two-sided alignment as well as single sided jobs...always choose “Center” unless you have some sort of special reason not too. This forces the machine to measure the length TWICE. So, why would you want to do that? Easy. This gives you a chance to head-off any board tracking issues before you run the job.

Observe the left left side of the board carefully during length measurement. If you notice any “gap” forming between the stationary plate or any binding during board feed-through, STOP! Re-adjust the moveable sliding plate, restart the project and observe again during Feed-through. A one-time measurement of board length will not always reveal any x axis issue, but the “twice Measure” always will. I can’t tell you how many times this has saved me from possible disaster. I have never broken the x gears and my two-sided carves are either spot-on or just a tiny (unnoticeable) fraction away.

GuyT
03-25-2019, 11:00 AM
I find that using your method works very well with sleds too!

Digitalwoodshop
03-25-2019, 09:52 PM
Well Done MT..... :) I learned a few things too...

AL

mtylerfl
03-26-2019, 08:01 AM
Thank you, Al. I, and “zillions” of others, have learned SO MUCH from YOU! You are a treasure-trove of knowledge! We will never be able to thank you enough!