Cut Motor

[mikedhill1]

I received my machine on Wed of last week, and it has worked well since I got it until last night. While cutting a pattern last night, the cut motor rpms started to fluctuate. Before I was able to get to the machine, the motor stopped but the machine kept going like nothing had happened. I stopped the operation, shut the machine off, and removed the flexshaft from the truck head. I removed the flexshaft core lubricated it, removed the rpm sensor and checked the magnet, replaced everything, started a new pattern, at load bit prompt, the motor won't turn, but it starts moving like it is.. Can anyone help me here...

[Digitalwoodshop]

There is the right side cover switch that is the return power circuit for the cut motor. A loose switch can cause this...

A Loose wire going to the Cut Motor can cause this

A Broken off C1 Capacitor on the X Termination Board under the machine can cause this.

A Loose wire on the X Termination Board can cause this....

A bad solder connection on the X Termination Board can cause this.

A Bad L2 Coil on the Power Supply can cause this

A Sticking Cut Motor Brush can cause this

A Wire Chewed up by the moving parts inside the Cut Motor can cause this

Short Cut Motor Brushes can cause this... Over 250 cut motor hours.... You don't mention how old the machine is...

I would advise removing the cut motor and opening it up and inspecting it....

AL

[cestout]

I guess this is why you would want to get the one year maintainance agreement. These machines are very reliable now, but I feel that if something is going to break because of a defect it would be right away, well soon anyway. If the lid switch is not faulty, the motor probably is. There are two lid switches I believe. One senses the lid open/closed, the other cuts the motor power when you open the lid. That is the reason for the heavy wire to the top in the motor corner. The smaller wiring harness in the other back corner is the open/closed sensor and the probe wires. First thing, try blowing out the lid switch - right side - with compressed air ( under 80psi )
Clint

[mikedhill1]

Thanks for the replies , I'm heading out to the shop to check these now, I'll let o\you in a bit..

[mikedhill1]

Ok, I checked both of the lid switches, they are fine, I removed the motor, and opened it up. I bought the machine brand new, it only has 25 hours on it. The motor has lots of wood dust inside, but other than that it looks fine. My next step will be to look at the power supply and other circuit board. I also have the extended warrenty with the machine.

[SteveJ]

I just fixed a cut motor problem yesterday. My lid switch seemed to work ok out of the machine, but when I hooked a continuity tester to it and closed the lid, no circuit. My hinge has worn some and allowed enough slop so it did not make the switch. A little duct tape and I was good to go.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Q1 the Transistor on the X Termination Board is the on off switch for the cut motor.. If one of the legs has a bad solder joint this can happen..... But a guy sent me a picture of a burnt X Termination Board... Not shure what would cause this..... Moisture? A damp shop?

OR..... Static Electricity.... from a dust collector....

AL

[mikedhill1]

Ok, I put the motor back in, checked the C1 capacitor, looked fine, checked the power supply, also looked fine, put everything back together, tried the pattern again, I put the bit in, the motor did the initial turn over, and then started to carve. It ran for about 10 seconds and the the motor stopped again, the machine kept going like everything was fine. Back to square one help...

[brdad]

If you are adept with electricity, you can hook the cut motor up to 120 volt power and see it it maintains speed then. With the motor in place you could even feed power through the cover switch to the motor. This will at least determine which end of the system the problem is.

Do this with caution, however! Don't do it if you're not sure what you're doing.

[mikedhill1]

Thanks brdad, I think I'm going to wait until tomorrow and call CW, see if they want me to send it in for repair or if they can walk me through a few things. Thanks everyone for your help, I really appreciate it.

[mikedhill1]

Well I got this figured out finally. It was the micro switch that cuts the motor. The cover would close and activate the switch, ( but just barely) but as soon as the truck started moving, the motion was enough to pop the swich. I now have it running.. Thanks to everyone for their help and ideas.. I really do appreciate it..

[Digitalwoodshop]

Good JOB !!!!!

At least it was not EXPENSIVE......

Soap box Mode : Everyone needs to know that when the top cover is removed from the machine and carried to a table top that if you don't support the clear cover you can damage the switches.

There is NO Mechanical Stop built into the Clear Plastic cover.... HEY... The First improvement for the "D" Series CW.... We should start a Thread and give US input this time....

Mold a mechanical Stop into the clear plastic cover so it cannot OVER EXTEND and PUSH the Switches back on the mounting screws.....

Watch... The Clear cover can PUSH the switches back and that will give you THIS Problem..... It sometimes Crack the Screw Holes....

AL END Soap Box Mode....:rolleyes:


What is HE doing up past 2 AM..... Doesn't he have a life?.:confused:

I packed up 22 packages of requested samples to kick the bushes for more orders... With this weekend work, I have sold more in the first Quarter this year that all of last year.... I have 55 open work folders... 22 were requesting samples..... So I can close them for now...
Two big Checks showed up finally so I can order more supplies.... :rolleyes:

[brdad]

I have occasional issues with the smaller cover switch. I took it apart and cleaned it out once already. I've thought a few times about replacing the two cover switches with one magnetic reed switch (no dust problems!) and having that switch control a relay under the CW which will control both the cut motor and the cover sensor circuit. I think the switches currently used in the CW are not adequate for the dust and vibration. And added bonus would be the elimination of the wires which can get in the way of the truck when it slides to the right.

[Digitalwoodshop]

I think you are on to something.... Sealed Magnetic Reed Switches.... I remember seeing some heavy duty Reed Switches that can handle the power and current of the cut motor... That would eliminate the 2 relays... But the standard alarm contact or component REED Switch would not handle the current or voltage of the cut motor and would melt.... That is why you mentioned running RELAYS as you understand this stuff... I just post this so someone not knowing about Voltage and Current in the Cut Motor would not just wire in a Radio Shack Door Alarm Reed Switch into the circuit.

[brdad]

Agreed, the smaller reed switches will not handle the power. And my thought was to have one 2 pole relay which could control both the high and low voltage circuits. That would eliminate the possibility of one cover switch failing and not the other. It would be quite possible to use two switches of proper rating as you say, however, and eliminate the relay.

[henry1]

Man that be nice to be able to do this keep it up guys your sure on to something

Henry