Cupping issues.

[lostinthefrost]

With the moisture constantly at 97% here in Illinois, I have had a ton of carvings cupping before I am able to get any sort of finish on them. I mainly use pine and let each one sit on a vented shelf. Is there any recommendations for 1 preventing it, 2 bringing it back straight once it's set in?

[Ike]

With the moisture constantly at 97% here in Illinois, I have had a ton of carvings cupping before I am able to get any sort of finish on them. I mainly use pine and let each one sit on a vented shelf. Is there any recommendations for 1 preventing it, 2 bringing it back straight once it's set in?

First is the material you buy kiln dried or rough cut? When buying your lumber invest in a moisture meter and choose the driest board. Once you get then home seal the end grains with end grain sealer or the easiest way buy some exterior glue not Gorilla unless it is their new wood glue and with a little water seal the ends. The regular gorilla glue will expand and crack the lumber.

If the lumber is wet stand it vertically and gravity draws the moisture and sounds like you sticker each layer between the boards. The main thing is to seal the end grains, now to reduce cupping put back straps on the boards.

To take the cupping out of a carved project sandwich it between two boards of the same size and using clamps each day apply slight pressure until flat. What is the thickness of the boards you are using? The thinner the board the easier it cups, so you might want to go with thicker boards.

The first thing I would do is get a moister meter Harbor Freight sells pretty good ones. Even if the board is kiln dried check the moisture anyway and choose the least wet board. But beware of too dry boards also they will crack.

Hope this helps?

Ike

[www.carvenow.com]

You can steam it before clamping it like Ike said.

[Ike]

You can steam it before clamping it like Ike said.
Hahn that is a great ideal!

Ike

[Dan-Woodman]

Joshua
If you are useing #2 pine , step up to select pine , the better grade is more stable. Available at the big box stores or look for a hardwood store in your area.
later Daniel

[rcdages]

Good Avice Ike on the cupping and how to handle it.

You get a 1,000.00 points for this one.

[lawrence]

also to point out-- if you plane one side of a board it will dry unevenly. Try to even out how much you take from each side.

Also of note, the big box lumber yards' lumber is usually VERY VERY wet. I get my pine from my local ACE and they have a very old (dry) stack that they let me pick through. It has been under a heavy load and stickered properly while it dried so it is VERY flat. Just remember the donuts for the Ace guy (or gal) and you should be fine :)

Lawrence

[lostinthefrost]

Excellent thanks all for replying. I go back and forth between select and choice or whatever. These are from a big box store, that's all we really have around here. I never noticed it for the last few years, but lately if I do a basic sign carve that is about .250 deep I am noticing within 24 hours a sanding I can see the box shaping up. I will change up somethings and stay with select if I can, but can get pricey and I also need to get one of those meters.
Thanks again all!!

[Dan-Woodman]

You could also try not carving quite so deep. The more material you remove from one side the more it will warp and cup.
later Daniel

[cestout]

Don't try to carve a wide piece as you get it from the store. Rip it in strips, flip alternate pieces over to reverse the curve of the grain, and glue it back together. If you look at the end grain where the tree rings show, the curved rings want to flatten out over time. If you break the rings up and alternate their direction you minimize cupping. Norm taught me that.
Clint

[gregsolano]

Man I miss Norm on saturdays!

[mtylerfl]

Hello,

If I am carving on only one side, that's the side that will tend to cup (upwards). One thing I try to do is pay attention to the direction of the tree rings by looking at the board ends. I'll plan to face the rings so they are curving downwards when placing the board into the machine. That helps compensate for the upward cupping tendency.

Another thing I've noticed for box tops is they are less prone to cupping if kept under about 7"x10" in size. Don't know why, but that's what I have observed on Select Pine as well as Maple (if I use Pine, the Select grade is all I use - none of the "wet"-pitchy stuff, in other words). Red Oak seems the most stable for me, but I don't like to carve it much - the grain is too open and is prone to chip out on very detailed carvings.

I think one "for sure" way to prevent cupping (when carving on just one side) is to cut the board in 3 or more strips and re-glue them together while alternating the grain up/down.

[liquidguitars]

With the moisture constantly at 97% here in Illinois, I have had a ton of carvings cupping before I am able to get any sort of finish on them. I mainly use pine and let each one sit on a vented shelf. Is there any recommendations for 1 preventing it, 2 bringing it back straight once it's set in?

One nice thing about using thick sleds is that you can screw down the board on the ends to remove the twists and cups.. once carved the board will relax a little.

also a good idea if you sand or plane the board make sure to surface each side, this will allow even heat and moisture transfer keeping the board flat.

[RogerB]

you can take the cupping out by using a heater that will dry the board .Heat the wood and after it cools finish all sides and ends.Works most times .Don't burn it bake it. I glue pine at 3 inch strips less stress on the piece.

RogerB

[Ike]

With the moisture constantly at 97% here in Illinois, I have had a ton of carvings cupping before I am able to get any sort of finish on them. I mainly use pine and let each one sit on a vented shelf. Is there any recommendations for 1 preventing it, 2 bringing it back straight once it's set in?
Sorry my PM was a repeat! Using different material helps too! I use redwood and it tends not to warp, the same applies to cedar. Plus the way the board was cut makes a difference vertical and flat cut. Most lumber is flat cut how you know is by the end grain if the lines are curves and vertical run up and down,

Problem with today's lumber is it is cut too soon and the grain is not tight as old growth. Funny guess it just another I have been lucky, but the last 30 years I have been gluing redwood and I glue so the grain matches! I have have little problem with warping!

However I have had warping with second growth con common wet redwood. So I try to get dry heart redwood and better grades of other lumber and try to get vertical grained. Even with the rough cut material I mostly buy I check the moisture content and the grain. Really wet boards the first couple days I set them on end to allow gravity to release the water. Then sticker properly and let it dry for a year. If I can't wait I try to find the driest best lumber for the current project.

But the biggest problem is being harvest too soon and it has little heart wood! So whenever I can I buy old growth redwood, pine, mytlewood or whatever I buy it if I can! These days I have been gluing up strips rather then wasting my OG redwood! With Gorilla glue I just glue the boards without dowels or biscuits. Plus remember with dowels and biscuits if you drill too deep and the carving goes across the area. It will expose the dowel and the void!

Ike

[mtylerfl]

Thanks Ike, for the additional info and the illustration. All the Select Pine I get at Lowes has the "flat grain" as shown in your photo. The Maple I get from a local cabinet shop is also the flat grain (I've still got a couple 7ft 1x12 Maple boards like that to use up). I'm going to see if I can get the cabinet shop to special order some hardwood for me with the vertical grain so I can try some out!