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chkorte
02-24-2011, 06:30 PM
I have been having an irritating problem with my CW carving. The CW carves the pattern just fine but when it’s all done the entire carved pattern is off center about 3/8” to the left. Everything is in the correct position and proportion just offset to the left. It never effects the top or bottom position. This happens on every pattern I carve. Most of my patterns are square or rectangular with a carve region 1 to 1 ½ inches from the edges and ¼” deep and a ¼” feather. My pattern carvings are done at best quality and not kept under the rollers. My boards are cut slightly larger than the patterns and patterns are kept at the original size and centered on the board. This has happened on 10 or 12 different patterns and board sizes and 4 or 5 software versions. Anyone have any ideas what is causing it? Trying to set the pattern up to carve taking the offset into consideration is difficult because of the number of objects in the carve and the fact that most or all of them are centered to the size of the board.

henry1
02-24-2011, 06:42 PM
I have been having an irritating problem with my CW carving. The CW carves the pattern just fine but when it’s all done the entire carved pattern is off center about 3/8” to the left. Everything is in the correct position and proportion just offset to the left. It never effects the top or bottom position. This happens on every pattern I carve. Most of my patterns are square or rectangular with a carve region 1 to 1 ½ inches from the edges and ¼” deep and a ¼” feather. My pattern carvings are done at best quality and not kept under the rollers. My boards are cut slightly larger than the patterns and patterns are kept at the original size and centered on the board. This has happened on 10 or 12 different patterns and board sizes and 4 or 5 software versions. Anyone have any ideas what is causing it? Trying to set the pattern up to carve taking the offset into consideration is difficult because of the number of objects in the carve and the fact that most or all of them are centered to the size of the board.
Well glade to see your having the problem because I have the same problem since the new software 1.178 when i do 2 sided carving I thought it was me I center both side and when it carves the top its offset from the bottom it does not match ,, why is LHR is doing this to us , don't they try it themselfs to see if works ok,, go figure

Ike
02-24-2011, 06:44 PM
I have been having an irritating problem with my CW carving. The CW carves the pattern just fine but when it’s all done the entire carved pattern is off center about 3/8” to the left. Everything is in the correct position and proportion just offset to the left. It never effects the top or bottom position. This happens on every pattern I carve. Most of my patterns are square or rectangular with a carve region 1 to 1 ½ inches from the edges and ¼” deep and a ¼” feather. My pattern carvings are done at best quality and not kept under the rollers. My boards are cut slightly larger than the patterns and patterns are kept at the original size and centered on the board. This has happened on 10 or 12 different patterns and board sizes and 4 or 5 software versions. Anyone have any ideas what is causing it? Trying to set the pattern up to carve taking the offset into consideration is difficult because of the number of objects in the carve and the fact that most or all of them are centered to the size of the board.

Have you recently changed sandpaper belts or to the rubber belts? Or have you messed with the calibration setting and set it back to factory? Either way sounds like you need to calibrate your X or length measurement. It would take a small book to explain how to do this! So I am going to refer you the CW manual! It will show exactly how to do this!

Ike

chkorte
02-24-2011, 07:04 PM
Have you recently changed sandpaper belts or to the rubber belts? Or have you messed with the calibration setting and set it back to factory? Either way sounds like you need to calibrate your X or length measurement. It would take a small book to explain how to do this! So I am going to refer you the CW manual! It will show exactly how to do this!

Ike

I have recently had my sandpaper belts off but it was doing this before I did that. My next attempt to solve this is to read the manual and do a calibration.

Ike
02-24-2011, 07:42 PM
Ah Ha! I too did this and threw off my calibration! Then I reset it to factory setting and really threw it off! If you need some help PM me and I will give you my phone number! I have a MDF board that is 12" wide and 36" long and it is my calibration board!

I went through the same issues trying to put an inside border on a 5.5" by 58" board. I would run a test and it was close and then the real deal and it would be off! Now that it is calibrated to 36.012" I have been okay! I have not been able to get exactly 36", then again I may be off by .012"?! I did think of something exact, my 4' level! I think I will try it next, I am sure it was made with a computerized machine and should be exact! Why didn't I think of that before?!

If you have a 4 foot level I would use that and follow the instructions!

Ike

chkorte
02-24-2011, 09:49 PM
I downloaded and have been reading the CW calibration instructions. It will be my project for tomorrow.

Ike
02-24-2011, 10:13 PM
I downloaded and have been reading the CW calibration instructions. It will be my project for tomorrow.

Like I said if you need help PM me and I will give you my phone number.

Digitalwoodshop
02-24-2011, 11:32 PM
Ok... Lets think like the machine.... Hold off on the Calibration.....

First thing I would do is after you get all your art in place.... Try placing a Drilled Hole in key places from the top or bottom and see if it really does match up.... Then delete the holes....

NOW... Click on Every .ptn and box and line and if you see any "Restraints" You know, the YELLOW Numbers..... The same color as PEE.... As is PEE you OFF.....

Right Click on Every single one and select "Remove Restraints" Trust me... Once you have everything in position you don't need the Locked to the Edge of the Board or Centerline.... This is JUST MY OPINION.... By doing this I believe you will get perfect front to back projects.

When you have projects Art or .ptn items LOCKED or RESTRAINED... When you install a board that is BIGGER and Flip the Board I believe the machine gets confused and gives you what you want.... A Locked in Element... Even if it is now in the WRONG Place.....

The Cribbage Board .mpc's drove us nuts with Restraints and "My Holes Don't Line UP..." Well, it usually came down to Restraints.... Remove EM....

This is just another W A G..... Wild AL Guess and Midnight Thirty.... I just Epoxied my last tag for the Big order.... Well... Almost... I pulled some Orange Tags from the Heat Press Too Soon and the Color is lighter on about 12 tags.... I need to start them from scratch now.... I want to be DONE with this project before I leave this morning... Except for installing 535 one inch Rings and Clips.... A real Thumb Buster.... Tomorrow... Listening to "Back in BLACK" on the SiriusXM 80's..... :)

That will be my Checking Account Soon....

AL

Ike
02-24-2011, 11:42 PM
Well Al I am going to disagree with you on this one! You know one time I am going to be correct! This just happened to me from replacing my belts and chkorte just remove the belts. It doesn't hurt to test it by measuring a board. Mine was off by almost an inch and as chkortesaid this happens on every project. So it is not just the one pattern.

I suggested to measure first if it is okay then I would guess the head pressure to the brass roller! Since this just happened to me I bet you a Coke it is the calibration!

Ike

chkorte
02-26-2011, 06:26 PM
Well, the machine is winning! I’ve spent the last 2 days reading the CW user calibration procedure and following the guide page by page to recalibrate my CW and the end result is that it is carving worse than what I started with. The board thickness and edge sensor calibrations went just fine. When I got to manually calibrating the X-axis (length) I did a board measure check and it was off by to much so I followed the guide and got the measurement to within .013” over a 36” board. I went on to manually calibrate the Y-axis (width) and determined it wasn’t needed. I went on to the Y-axis offset and found it to was good as it was. I then did a test carve on a piece of scrap wood and it came out worse than before. It carved the objects in the pattern fine but when it came to the carve region square it offset it even more to the left. The user calibration guide has a procedure to calibrate the Y-axis offset but not the X-axis offset. Tomorrow I am going to reset the CW to factory settings and try again. I will try AL’s suggestion and try removing all the restraints and see if that helps. I'm determined to fix this problem!

Ike
02-26-2011, 09:51 PM
Well, the machine is winning! I’ve spent the last 2 days reading the CW user calibration procedure and following the guide page by page to recalibrate my CW and the end result is that it is carving worse than what I started with. The board thickness and edge sensor calibrations went just fine. When I got to manually calibrating the X-axis (length) I did a board measure check and it was off by to much so I followed the guide and got the measurement to within .013” over a 36” board. I went on to manually calibrate the Y-axis (width) and determined it wasn’t needed. I went on to the Y-axis offset and found it to was good as it was. I then did a test carve on a piece of scrap wood and it came out worse than before. It carved the objects in the pattern fine but when it came to the carve region square it offset it even more to the left. The user calibration guide has a procedure to calibrate the Y-axis offset but not the X-axis offset. Tomorrow I am going to reset the CW to factory settings and try again. I will try AL’s suggestion and try removing all the restraints and see if that helps. I'm determined to fix this problem!

Ok next question have you recently replaced the rubber O ring on the brass roller? Or have you checked it lately? If you replaced it did you use the correct size? If not check to see if it needs replaced with a 5/16" ID X 7/16" OD for the old sensor and 1/4" ID x 3/8" OD for the new Rev C sensor. Matter of fact I put the wrong O ring on my new Rev C and need to change it!

The next thing would be the brass roller sensor may need replacing? I am not sure why locking a pattern with restraints would throw it off? Maybe you could share the MPC to take a look?

Ike

chkorte
02-26-2011, 10:20 PM
Ok next question have you recently replaced the rubber O ring on the brass roller? Or have you checked it lately? If you replaced it did you use the correct size? If not check to see if it needs replaced with a 5/16" ID X 7/16" OD for the old sensor and 1/4" ID x 3/8" OD for the new Rev C sensor. Matter of fact I put the wrong O ring on my new Rev C and need to change it!

The next thing would be the brass roller sensor may need replacing? I am not sure why locking a pattern with restraints would throw it off? Maybe you could share the MPC to take a look?

Ike
I have recently replaced the o-ring and it is 5/16 ID X 7/16 OD but I was having the problem with the original o-ring. If the brass roller sensor was going bad I would think that I would be having a problem with other aspects of the carve not just the square carve areas. I've attached the latest MPC but it's not the only one I have had the problem with.

Ike
02-26-2011, 10:27 PM
I have recently replaced the o-ring and it is 5/16 ID X 7/16 OD but I was having the problem with the original o-ring. If the brass roller sensor was going bad I would think that I would be having a problem with other aspects of the carve not just the square carve areas. I've attached the latest MPC but it's not the only one I have had the problem with.
I will look at the MPC, but the brass roller has everything to do with the X movement, so even though the Y is or height is correct the brass roller may slip and cause the length to be off. That is why Al endorses masking tape!

Ike

mtylerfl
02-26-2011, 10:36 PM
I have been having an irritating problem with my CW carving. The CW carves the pattern just fine but when it’s all done the entire carved pattern is off center about 3/8” to the left. Everything is in the correct position and proportion just offset to the left. It never effects the top or bottom position. This happens on every pattern I carve. Most of my patterns are square or rectangular with a carve region 1 to 1 ½ inches from the edges and ¼” deep and a ¼” feather. My pattern carvings are done at best quality and not kept under the rollers. My boards are cut slightly larger than the patterns and patterns are kept at the original size and centered on the board. This has happened on 10 or 12 different patterns and board sizes and 4 or 5 software versions. Anyone have any ideas what is causing it? Trying to set the pattern up to carve taking the offset into consideration is difficult because of the number of objects in the carve and the fact that most or all of them are centered to the size of the board.

Hello,

I just spotted your post and am thinking a solution may be more basic than what has already been suggested. Of course, I could be wrong.

Are you allowing any Auto-Jigging when uploading to your card? Are you allowing any Scaling at the machine during setup? Can we see the MPC to peek at your layout? Are you using a board at least 7" longer than your MPC layout? There are several possible "pilot-error" causes - not saying that this is the case with your situation necessarily, but it will be very helpful if we could look at your MPC and get some more detailed info in order to help you find the actual cause of the problem as well as a welcome solution!

Ike
02-26-2011, 10:44 PM
The MPC looks fine, okay another question have you been getting any stuck roller errors during set up and instead of starting over you push enter? If so then it will carve off, if not I would try masking tape or replacing the roller. Of course before that try carving without restraints. Are you using rollers or not? I never use them and have been fine

Do I ask what machine you have a B or C? If it is a C then you too have the wrong O ring like I do! Another thing I would do is take the brass roller out and clean it out with compressed air. When you remove it check the screws first to make sure they were not loose.

Like I said I was trying to do a simple project and until I calibrated the X and now the new O ring it was off!

Here is what was throwing me off.

Ike

Ike
02-26-2011, 10:46 PM
Hello,

I just spotted your post and am thinking a solution may be more basic than what has already been suggested. Of course, I could be wrong.

Are you allowing any Auto-Jigging when uploading to your card? Are you allowing any Scaling at the machine during setup? Can we see the MPC to peek at your layout? Are you using a board at least 7" longer than your MPC layout? There are several possible "pilot-error" causes - not saying that this is the case with your situation necessarily, but it will be very helpful if we could look at your MPC and get some more detailed info in order to help you find the actual cause of the problem as well as a welcome solution!
He did post the MPC and I thought it looked fine and ALL my signs I do not use the rollers and have not had an issue like this. Of course I am sure I will be wrong!

mtylerfl
02-26-2011, 10:51 PM
I have recently replaced the o-ring and it is 5/16 ID X 7/16 OD but I was having the problem with the original o-ring. If the brass roller sensor was going bad I would think that I would be having a problem with other aspects of the carve not just the square carve areas. I've attached the latest MPC but it's not the only one I have had the problem with.

Thanks for posting the MPC. I don't see a thing wrong with it. Nice layout!

Try the following to see if the problem goes away...

1) During upload, you may or may not get the jigging prompt...click on "IGNORE" (do not allow any jigging) (you will NOT receive the jig prompt, because of no cutouts on this particular MPC - you might see it on your others, though)
2) Based on your MPC layout, the board you put into the machine should be at least 20 3/4" inches long
3) Use two business cards as a "spacer" between the board and the sliding guide (the guide is a "guide" not a clamp)
4) Stay Under Rollers...answer either YES or NO..doesn't matter in this case since your board will be plenty long enough
5) If you get any Scaling Prompt...Select KEEP ORIGINAL SIZE ...do NOT allow any scaling under any circumstances
6) When asked How to Place, select CENTER
7) If prompted to Cut Board to Size ...select NO

Please run the project using all the steps outlined above and report back to let us know how things went.

Ike
02-26-2011, 11:02 PM
I am confused why would the auto jig prompt come up? There is nothing being cut out and if he isn't using the rollers why waste the material and carve it as it is sized? Plus my CW is auto set so when you say ask for center?

From memory I select the project and no to rollers and then it measures and ask if keep original size...enter, oh I am probably off the correct order, but prompts if I want cut board. Then select the bits and then it goes.

Anyway I not the expert so I will shut up!!

Ike

mtylerfl
02-26-2011, 11:09 PM
I am confused why would the auto jig prompt come up? There is nothing being cut out and if he isn't using the rollers why waste the material and carve it as it is sized? Plus my CW is auto set so when you say ask for center?

From memory I select the project and no to rollers and then it measures and ask if keep original size...enter, oh I am probably off the correct order, but prompts if I want cut board. Then select the bits and then it goes.

Anyway I not the expert so I will shut up!!

Ike

Hi Ike,

It may be helpful for him to run the project again using the steps outlined above, just to make sure we have eliminated as many basic setup procedures/errors as possible. (You're right - no jigging prompt due to no cutouts.) If it still doesn't work, then we'll be forced to re-visit possible mechanical issues, of course. It is EXTREMELY important to keep the project under the rollers at all times!

Here's the info about O-ring sizes...

Look at the photos posted below to determine whether you have the "original" or the "new" brass sensor, then...

Original sensor O-ring size is: 5/16" ID X 7/16" OD (got mine at Home Depot plumbing Dept.)

New sensor O-ring size is: 1/4" ID x 3/8" OD (got mine from www.McMaster.com (http://www.mcmaster.com/) Part Number: 9557K462 $4.39 for 100 of 'em!)
(Actual Inside Diameter is 0.239"...Actual Outside Diameter is 0.379")

Ike
02-26-2011, 11:20 PM
Sorry to waste anybody's time, I was having the same issues so I shared what I did to fix the issues. I also share the sizes of the O ring for both sensors and was asking what sensor he had. I did not say where to buy them, I bought mine from my local ACE hardware store. For the last 4 years I have been using my CW and I hardly ever if ever use the rollers and my signs have came out fine. I hear it all the time it is extremely or EXTREMELY important to use the rollers....okay why?

mtylerfl
02-26-2011, 11:35 PM
Sorry to waste anybody's time, I was having the same issues so I shared what I did to fix the issues. I also share the sizes of the O ring for both sensors and was asking what sensor he had. I did not say where to buy them, I bought mine from my local ACE hardware store. For the last 4 years I have been using my CW and I hardly ever if ever use the rollers and my signs have came out fine. I hear it all the time it is extremely or EXTREMELY important to use the rollers....okay why?

Ha! You honestly don't know?? My goodness you've been very, very fortunate that you haven't had any number of problems if you are not keeping your projects under the rollers! To avoid wasting material, then sleds are the answer OR by using a creative technique like AL does (masking tape a four-inch scrap, place on end, etc.)

Gotta keep the project under the rollers to avoid...tracking problems, broken bits, spoiled carvings, Z-axis errors. These are the MAIN calls I get every week...new folks haven't had a chance to read the Tips & Tricks and don't know about the "7-inch Rule" yet, so they waste more wood and experience more unnecessary frustration than they should in the beginning. To avoid all kinds of headaches and wasted $$ on broken bits (one of the most common cause of not keeping under the rollers...board tipping=broken bits), it is a "must" to keep the project boards captive under the rollers. If everyone would do that, my "help, I'm in trouble" call volume would go down significantly!!

Oh, I really need to add...you are NOT wasting anyones time by offering helpful suggestions! It is appreciated!

Ike
02-26-2011, 11:41 PM
Ha! You honestly don't know?? My goodness you've been very, very fortunate that you haven't had any number of problems if you are not keeping your projects under the rollers! To avoid wasting material, then sleds are the answer OR by using a creative technique like AL does (masking tape a four-inch scrap, place on end, etc.)

Gotta keep the project under the rollers to avoid...tracking problems, broken bits, spoiled carvings, Z-axis errors. These are the MAIN calls I get every week...new folks haven't had a chance to read the Tips & Tricks and don't know about the "7-inch Rule" yet, so they waste more wood and experience more unnecessary frustration than they should in the beginning. To avoid all kinds of headaches and wasted $$ on broken bits (one of the most common cause of not keeping under the rollers...board tipping=broken bits), it is a "must" to keep the project boards captive under the rollers. If everyone would do that, my "help, I'm in trouble" call volume would go down significantly!!

I don't have any issues with broken bits or tracking problems at least caused by rollers or not and Z axis errors? How does it effect the Z axis?

I obviously don't have a clue so I will shut up

mtylerfl
02-26-2011, 11:44 PM
I don't have any issues with broken bits or tracking problems at least caused by rollers or not and Z axis errors? How does it effect the Z axis?

I obviously don't have a clue so I will shut up

Board tip causes bit lift=Z-axis error...very common if not keeping under rollers at all times.

liquidguitars
02-26-2011, 11:57 PM
Hi, can you take a photo of the finished board showing the offset for us?

Ike
02-26-2011, 11:58 PM
chkorte, I sent you a PM if I can help you just ask. I don't claim to be an expert, but I have had the same problems you are having and I know what I did to solve them. My issues just started happening and WAS not something I did in the start or upload process.

I know you were having head pressure problems and like I did messed you with your belts and the calibration was off. So based on the similar issues I shared what I did to resolve the problem.

By no means what I say is fact!

Ike

mtylerfl
02-27-2011, 12:00 AM
Hi, can you take a photo of the finished board showing the offset for us?

How come everyone's up so late? <grin>

Excellent suggestion, LG. That will give us a good idea where the problem is "coming from". Good call. Offset in "X" will strongly indicate a tracking problem.

liquidguitars
02-27-2011, 12:05 AM
Only 10:04 on the left coast..

mtylerfl
02-27-2011, 12:07 AM
Only 10:04 on the left coast..

after 1:00AM here...goin' to bed now...

chkorte
02-27-2011, 01:11 PM
Hi, can you take a photo of the finished board showing the offset for us?

Here is a picture of one of the patterns carved in maple. The board is 13.5” X 6” X .75”. I have included the MPC and a picture with the dimensions labeled. You can see the pattern is offset to the left with 3/8” difference between the left and right side. The accent line is just a rectangle centered on the board assigned a 60 deg V-bit to carve 1/16” deep and it to is offset to the left of the carve region. I am going out now to work with the CW and try some of the suggestions. Be back later with results.

dbfletcher
02-27-2011, 01:31 PM
Here is a picture of one of the patterns carved in maple. The board is 13.5” X 6” X .75”. I have included the MPC and a picture with the dimensions labeled. You can see the pattern is offset to the left with 3/8” difference between the left and right side. The accent line is just a rectangle centered on the board assigned a 60 deg V-bit to carve 1/16” deep and it to is offset to the left of the carve region. I am going out now to work with the CW and try some of the suggestions. Be back later with results.


To me that sure does look like a brass roller issue... slipping, losing contact, etc. Possibly an x-gear missing a tooth? After it finishes the carve and starts the v-bit carve, it loses track of where it is on the board.

mtylerfl
02-27-2011, 01:57 PM
Yes, I tend to agree...appears to be a tracking problem. That would be a classic case of running a board too short or not using an appropriate length sled or jig (i.e., not staying captive under both rollers at all times). It could possibly be other issues as well (see the Tips & Tricks ISSUE 27 January – February 2010 – Maintaining Accurate Board Tracking (http://www.carvewright.com/downloads/tips/CarveWrightTips&Tricks_Jan_Feb10.pdf)). However, try using the "correct" board length of 20 3/4"...I'll bet that will solve your problem. Anxious to hear how you make out when running the project as recommended.

mtylerfl
02-27-2011, 02:36 PM
...I suggest reformatting the card and loading the project again or run a test with just a border.

Ike

Probably no need to reformat the card, but it won't hurt anything if you want to do it. Likely the solution is dirt-simple...just use a board the proper length and I am thinking you will be a happy camper.

Most issues encountered "with the machine" are not the machine at all...we need to eliminate the easy/obvious possible causes first, then explore other avenues if necessary...which I am hoping you won't need to do. Make that board 20 3/4" and let us know if that was the root of the problem all along. I don't want you to spend any time on 'rabbit trails' if it isn't necessary!

Ike
02-27-2011, 03:21 PM
I removed the suggestion..... I am at a lost for words. Uh..........

mtylerfl
02-27-2011, 03:27 PM
I removed the suggestion..... I am at a lost for words.

Hi Ike,

I sure hope he's carving right now so we can know for sure if he gets the problem licked, once and for all! He has lots of great suggestions to try if the simple board length change doesn't do the trick!

EDIT: Hey, I just thought of something else none of us thought to ask him...what is the shop temperature? As we all know, lower than 50-55 degrees will often play havoc with head pressure and result in goofy tracking. I do spell that out in the Tips & Tricks Tracking article I provided the link for already, but I'm surprised at myself not thinking to mention it earlier on in the thread. If the shop temp is warm enough (and all other ducks are in a row as outlined in the Tips), I'm pretty sure the mis-tracking was just a matter of the board being too short. Fingers crossed!

liquidguitars
02-27-2011, 06:27 PM
I would also check/look at the sandpaper belts for a fold over, if you use the rubber belts check to see it they are hitting the AUX roller, it will throw everything out of sink.

quick fix is to cut .50" off the side even the rubber ones...

chkorte
02-27-2011, 07:41 PM
It has been an interesting afternoon. To answer a couple of questions posed earlier, my shop is about 60 deg, I formatted the card 2 days ago, I removed all the restraints for the pattern, head pressure is 78 lbs, the O-ring is good and in place, the sandpaper belts are not rolled under, I have tried keeping it under rollers and while using masking tape, the brass roller is clean. I created a new test pattern to carve just to check the placement on the board. It was a simple carve region, centered on the board, 2 ½” X 6”, 1/8” depth and ¼” feather to be carved on a board 3 ½” X 8”. Around that I placed a rectangle, centered on the board, 3” X 7” and assign a 90 deg V-bit to carve it 1/16” deep. I upload all of this to the card. Then I delete the outside rectangle leaving just the carve region and upload this to the card. Now I put back the rectangle and delete the carve region leaving just the rectangle and upload this to the card. Now I carve just the carve region onto 2 different boards. On one board I keep it under rollers and on the other one I don’t. Next I carve just the rectangle on the same boards over the carve region. Then I carve the complete pattern on 2 other boards, one under rollers and one not. The results were virtually 4 identical carved patterns. All 4 had the carved region left of center about 3/8” and ¼” higher than center. All 4 had the rectangle about ¼” left of center. OK I say, let’s try something else. I load another board and carve the plaque I was originally working on. The CW carves the pattern perfectly, just 3/8” to the left of center. Now I realize I could solve this by keeping the board under the rollers because I would then need to cut both ends off anyway but I just don’t like to waste the wood. I can also carve the pattern on a slightly larger board leaving a wider gap on each end and then trim it down. This is probably the way I’ll go. I’ve come to the conclusion that the CW is like a cat. We may own it and it allows us to feed it and play with it but it doesn’t feel it needs to listen to us if it doesn’t want to. Here Kitty, Kitty, Kitty!!!!!!

Ike
02-27-2011, 08:09 PM
It has been an interesting afternoon. To answer a couple of questions posed earlier, my shop is about 60 deg, I formatted the card 2 days ago, I removed all the restraints for the pattern, head pressure is 78 lbs, the O-ring is good and in place, the sandpaper belts are not rolled under, I have tried keeping it under rollers and while using masking tape, the brass roller is clean. I created a new test pattern to carve just to check the placement on the board. It was a simple carve region, centered on the board, 2 ½” X 6”, 1/8” depth and ¼” feather to be carved on a board 3 ½” X 8”. Around that I placed a rectangle, centered on the board, 3” X 7” and assign a 90 deg V-bit to carve it 1/16” deep. I upload all of this to the card. Then I delete the outside rectangle leaving just the carve region and upload this to the card. Now I put back the rectangle and delete the carve region leaving just the rectangle and upload this to the card. Now I carve just the carve region onto 2 different boards. On one board I keep it under rollers and on the other one I don’t. Next I carve just the rectangle on the same boards over the carve region. Then I carve the complete pattern on 2 other boards, one under rollers and one not. The results were virtually 4 identical carved patterns. All 4 had the carved region left of center about 3/8” and ¼” higher than center. All 4 had the rectangle about ¼” left of center. OK I say, let’s try something else. I load another board and carve the plaque I was originally working on. The CW carves the pattern perfectly, just 3/8” to the left of center. Now I realize I could solve this by keeping the board under the rollers because I would then need to cut both ends off anyway but I just don’t like to waste the wood. I can also carve the pattern on a slightly larger board leaving a wider gap on each end and then trim it down. This is probably the way I’ll go. I’ve come to the conclusion that the CW is like a cat. We may own it and it allows us to feed it and play with it but it doesn’t feel it needs to listen to us if it doesn’t want to. Here Kitty, Kitty, Kitty!!!!!!


Guess I will reply first and see how many replies I get telling me the errors of my ways! You said you use the rollers on one carve and one without rollers and the same results. By adding 7" and staying under the rollers doesn't solve your issues, it just waste material. So say you used a sled adding 3.5" on each side and stay under the rollers you will still be off by 3/8" on the left.

So I would say it is the brass roller and needs replaced. You never mentioned during set are you getting any stuck roller or tracking errors and instead of aborting you continue? Are you out feed tables level with the roller tables and not riding up causing a slip?

Ike

chkorte
02-27-2011, 08:44 PM
Guess I will reply first and see how many replies I get telling me the errors of my ways! You said you use the rollers on one carve and one without rollers and the same results. By adding 7" and staying under the rollers doesn't solve your issues, it just waste material. So say you used a sled adding 3.5" on each side and stay under the rollers you will still be off by 3/8" on the left.

So I would say it is the brass roller and needs replaced. You never mentioned during set are you getting any stuck roller or tracking errors and instead of aborting you continue? Are you out feed tables level with the roller tables and not riding up causing a slip?

Ike
My outfeed tables are set just a fraction low of the board height. I'm probably going to order a new brass roller just to be safe.

Ike
02-27-2011, 09:05 PM
My outfeed tables are set just a fraction low of the board height. I'm probably going to order a new brass roller just to be safe.

I use 2 4 foot levels and after ensuring the machine is level I raise the tables until the rollers on the end are level. You never did say did you encounter any errors during the X or length measuring?

liquidguitars
02-27-2011, 11:13 PM
This is a good reason to add the extra 8" to your Designer pattern then use "keep the same" and "place on corner" no amount of wishing will change the fact that the CW needs the extra 4" of wood. The only real way of saving wood is to use a sled . Also I have found now my machines are getting somewhat thrashed, it's a good idea to manually check the table pressure at each run, all thats needed to load the wood offset in the machine then lift the board.

mtylerfl
02-28-2011, 09:45 AM
This is a good reason to add the extra 8" to your Designer pattern then use "keep the same" and "place on corner" no amount of wishing will change the fact that the CW needs the extra 4" of wood. The only real way of saving wood is to use a sled . Also I have found now my machines are getting somewhat thrashed, it's a good idea to manually check the table pressure at each run, all thats needed to load the wood offset in the machine then lift the board.

below is my last run of violins...

Very well said, LG. I cannot figure out why folks make life harder for themselves - so easy to avoid the headaches! More material has been wasted trying to save wood by using boards too short or not using sleds. False economy to be sure.

Hey those are a great line-up of violins, man!

Ike
02-28-2011, 01:18 PM
Wow I love how at one time Brandon stated I never use the rollers! The other thing I can't figure out is why the way somebody does something that is different from somebody else they are wrong? To top it off they have to treated like they are stupid in open forum for that suggestion!

Oh I know it will be posted no I am taking it wrong....really? The OP issues have been going on for a week or so and I have been trying to help him with a same issue I was having. An issue that just started happening, no it is not because I am not using the rollers? I am fortunate I have made hundreds of signs without the rollers....again really? With level out feed tables and external supports I have never had any Z axis errors because of tipping or any problems. If the rollers are so important why can't it be programed to use the exact size board while under the rollers?

I thought when helping other members we give advice and then other members give theirs as an added suggestion? Not to top the other member or post advice in a matter of fact way saying their way is the correct way and everything is wrong!


Ike

liquidguitars
02-28-2011, 01:38 PM
Hi Ike,

Your not wrong and your advice is always good. I/we tend to just poak at the issues in hope we hit the mark and thats only once in a blue moon.
regarding the OP I think he said that the project was scaling based on his wood size was wrong? hench why i like to add the extra in Designer and " keep the same"... This error seems to surface every day...
Brandon

Ike
02-28-2011, 01:48 PM
Hi Ike,

Your not wrong and your advice is always good. I/we tend to just poak at the issues in hope we hit the mark and thats only once in a blue moon.
regarding the OP I think he said that the project was scaling based on his wood size was wrong? hench why i like to add the extra in Designer and " keep the same"... This error seems to surface every day...
Brandon
No Brandon the issue was not a scaling problem it was the carving was off 3/8" on the left. He put a border around the carving and the rectangle was centered in the designer, but the carving was shifted to the right.

That is a tracking issue, first he was having head pressure issues he resolved and then I suggested calibrating the X and he did. He said, his belts were fine and recently replaced the O ring. I asked if he had any tracking or stuck roller error during the X measurement, but he has not said.

That isn't what's bothering me!

liquidguitars
02-28-2011, 01:55 PM
Well I know my attitude is abrasive I seem to offend everyone at one point, I have a real gift with that..

Ike
02-28-2011, 02:14 PM
Well I know my attitude is abrasive I seem to offend everyone at one point, I have a real gift with that..
Lol Brandon your post were those of suggestion and not matter the fact!

Ike
02-28-2011, 10:30 PM
Chkorte, did you ever say if had any stuck roller or tracking error during the length measurement. Then was given the choice to continue or abort? Mine was doing this and letting it continue it would throw the carving off.

Ike