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vandel
02-16-2011, 04:24 PM
Greetings everyone,

I've been reading the forums for some time, watched the videos here and at youtube, have not purchased a CW yet (still saving the money) and have some questions.

I'm starting a home business making custom wood gun grips. I'm considering the CW to speed up the process (especially fitting the grips to the gun). What I foresee is hand make one set of grips and use the probe to get it on the computer. How do you scan both sides considering neither is flat or level? I would assume I need to make the scanned piece as level as possible. I was thinking using the screw hole but it would be nice if the CW will scan / drill that hole for me, or at least an indentation to show the correct location. Proof reading I thought, use the screw hole to hold it level, then pack the underside with hot glue?

The wood I’m using is 3/8 inch thick. Is it possible to make a sled where the sled can just be flipped and the CW has access to both sides. I think this would be the best way to ensure the work piece remains exactly lined up for 2 sided carving.

Speaking of sleds: I do not have a table saw or planer, so how hard will it be to make a sled? It sounds like it needs to be perfectly flat for the sensors in the CW. Is a planer needed to do it right? Are there any sources or people in the forums selling sleds? The other issue I have with making a sled is, my source for wood does not make the wood consistently the same size, normally it is 3/8 thick but the other dimensions range from 1 13/16 to 2 3/8 by 5 to 5 15/16. An adjustable sled would be great, I was thinking in the 3 inch overhang on both ends, drill two holes from the outer edge too the center of the sled where the work will be held, having screws running through the holes to a clamping block. Both sides made like this so different size blocks can be centered with out making additional sleds. Basically making a wooden vise on both ends. I hope my description makes sense? Would this work?

From what I’ve been reading, checkering is possible with the CW. Are there different types of checkering available in the software? I.E. instead of normal diamond, fish scale or basket weave.


I'm wanting to stick with Ironwood and Burls due to the beauty of it and too try to make my grips unique, but I’m wondering if Ironwood will wear out the bits too fast or the burl getting chipped from the carving process.

I understand the CW is pretty loud. I intend to get the vacuum hood I noticed pictured here to keep it clean and wondering if I built a wood and Plexiglas box to put over the CW to cut down on the noise if that will cause cooling issues.

I've been reading allot about the "Rock chuck". I can't find it on the CW web site. Who sells it and is it needed with the C version machine?

Lastly, anyone in the Greensboro NC area that wouldn't mind demonstrating a CW? Nothing special, just what ever your working on.

Thanks in advance for any info to my questions, I’m certain I will purchase a CW, just doing a bit of research.

dbfletcher
02-16-2011, 04:36 PM
If you get a "C" version, the rock wont even be an option. The C version uses a once piece spindle design. But the C version should be just as good or better than an earlier version with the Rock. I'll leave you other questions to people who actualy use thier machines to make grips.

cnsranch
02-17-2011, 09:43 AM
Great questions, vandel.

Bottom line, I believe that the machine can do a great job with gun grips, to a degree.

I've spoken with a fellow here in KC that bought a CW specifically for the purpose of carving the backside of his grips - as you know, there are some that have pretty intricate cut-outs for the inner workings of the pistol. He struggled with getting his mind around the machine, however, and basically gave up trying to figure it out - too bad, really.

You can scan both sides, and can mount your grips to your sled a number of different ways. Do a search, with quotes around your search words (i.e., "sled") that will get you pretty far.

The key really is to have the grip level and square. If you haven't looked here, take a look at what I've been working on re adding checkering, etc., to a rifle stock:

http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?17245-Question-For-All-You-Smart-People-Out-There&highlight=smart

That will show you how to make a "sled", (really more like a "carrier") that can give you the ability to scan two sides, but you have to figure out how to mount the grip - it would almost have to float in the sled.

Any wood that you use in the machine has to have perfectly parallel edges - sleds included. If they aren't, the wood or sled will hang up in the machine. How you do that without a table saw is something for you to figure out.

My sleds are made of cabinet grade plywood - cabinet grade isn't really all that more expensive, and it's clean on both sides without voids in the layers. An adjustable sled is a good idea - you can search for that as well (also Tips and Tricks edition re carriers and sleds).

Checkering is something I'm still toying with - you need to understand a couple things before you go at it -

The detail that the machine can carve is basically limited to the size of the tip of carving bit. You will never get a classic checkering on a grip (classic being what we see on a factory grip) - the machine simply cannot carve that small. That said, checkering is there primarily to give us something to hold onto, keeps the gun from slipping. I've done lots of searching on the net, looking at custom checkering, and the one's that tend to really bowl me over are the ones that are more than the classic that we relate to. Look again at my post, I'm trying to get some "checkering" that will accomplish what it's made to do in the first place, but designed in such a way that the machine can carve it, and look "custom". I think I'm getting there, if I can figure out how to get it on my rifle without destroying the stock, the result will be something that no one has seen (I hope).

So, you have to go outside the box when looking at that part of the process.

Re different options that you asked about - I've asked myself the same question, just haven't researched that yet. What I've done is to make a "connected line drawing", and added a "texture" to that drawing. I don't want to lose you here, but my post simply has two of about five or six "textures" available in the machine's software. Whether or not we can create our own "textures", and then add them to the list of ones available, I'm not sure - but I think we can.

Neat thing about adding a texture, is that you can tell the machine how far apart you want the texture's pattern to be carved (called "interval"). One of my test carves has the textures carved at 1/16" the other at 1/8". The farther apart, the better detail you get, but you tend to lose the goal of finer "checkering" on the grip.

Re different woods - the harder, the better re getting good detail. The softer, the more your piece will likely chip out. However, the harder, the more the bit has to work, the quicker it will dull. But, it will take a lot to dull it in any event, and with what custom grips are selling for, you'll be able to afford a new bit every 100 or so grips.

Whatever you do, run test carves on cheap wood before loading that good stuff up.

Re noise - the machine isn't noisier than your typical router, the difference is that you don't run your router for hours at a time.

Good luck, hope this helps a little. Quit fooling around and get your machine - it's a blast.

BTW, get the scanning probe, and centerline text at the least for what you want to do. I'd also research the DXF importer as well.

vandel
02-17-2011, 11:18 AM
Thank you guys for your answers.

I've been reading about problems with the CW and it seams most of it boils down to the operator not wanting to learn the machine. Cnsranch, I take it the person you spoke with was either not mechanically inclined or didn't want to learn?

Looking at the sled you made for your sons rifle, I take it the stock can be thinner then the sled's frame? If so that would be great and the idea I have in my mind for the sled will work. Just need to find someone who can make it. I have a local Woodcrafters store. They have the tools and equipment to make what I'm thinking in a workshop, just need to talk to them to see if they will/can make it.

Here is a link to a grip maker that puts different textures on grips. Posting the link just for information purposes.
http://www.hoguestore.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=541
I cant imagine he is doing these by hand and must be using a CNC machine. I'd prefer not to do checkering because I think it will take away from the beauty of Burl wood but some customers want it. Being able to make different patterns, all I can say is WOW.

In the videos I've watched on the CW there are some very intricate carvings. I can't imaging sanding in all those nooks and crannies. How well does the CW perform in regards to this? I will sand and polish smooth surfaces but any checkering or designs, then what?

The warranty starts when you order so the standard warranty i don't think would be good at all (how long it takes to receive the machine not to mention learn prior to even turning it on for the first time). What warranty option do y'all recommend?

cnsranch
02-17-2011, 11:59 AM
Cnsranch, I take it the person you spoke with was either not mechanically inclined or didn't want to learn?

Both


Looking at the sled you made for your sons rifle, I take it the stock can be thinner then the sled's frame?Right


In the videos I've watched on the CW there are some very intricate carvings. I can't imaging sanding in all those nooks and crannies. How well does the CW perform in regards to this? I will sand and polish smooth surfaces but any checkering or designs, then what?We call what's left over after a carve as "fuzzies" - the ends of the fibers that are exposed.

Think of it this way - if you carve by hand, you're slicing through the wood, effectively shaving through the fibers at an angle, so to speak. With the CW, the "carving bit" is really cutting through the fibers at more of a 90 degree angle, so there's lots of end grain that needs to be sanded away. Getting that cleaned up is what separates the good projects from the great projects.

lynnfrwd
02-17-2011, 12:26 PM
In the videos I've watched on the CW there are some very intricate carvings. I can't imaging sanding in all those nooks and crannies. How well does the CW perform in regards to this? I will sand and polish smooth surfaces but any checkering or designs, then what?

The amount of clean up depends on a couple of things. 1. Tighter grain wood; less fuzzies 2. Higher Quality setting; less fuzzies

Ways to clean up: 1. Sanding mop 2. Dremel tool 3. Hand carving tools 4. Search forum for other ways



The warranty starts when you order so the standard warranty i don't think would be good at all (how long it takes to receive the machine not to mention learn prior to even turning it on for the first time). What warranty option do y'all recommend?

The warranty starts when you register your machine. We say your machine should arrive within 7 to 10 business days from order, but barring weather issues or availability issues, it is usually less. I recommend at least one year, if not two, then join the CarversClub. I'd expect others have their own opinion and can advise on what they think.

lawrence
02-20-2011, 10:08 AM
Vandel-- where are you located? There may even be someone here that would help you tinker a bit before buying. It may be worth trying a "checker" or two on a piece of ironwood scrap (If it is desert ironwood we have plenty here in Tucson) before you plunk down the $$

Just a thought...

Lawrence