PDA

View Full Version : Fletcher's DC - carve it yourself



Fletcher
02-14-2011, 12:51 PM
Hi Folks,

I have been getting more requests for this file to make your own Dust Collector Hood to fit your Carvewright, so here it is for easy download, in the new DC sub-forum!

I, and several others, have tested this carve and used the part that it makes in our machines and it works great! However, please note that you downloading this file is your acknowledgement that I make or imply no warranties, or any liability whatsoever for any problems, injury, or damage you may cause to you, your tools, or your machine.(Just covering my butt...)

liquidguitars
02-14-2011, 01:32 PM
Wow this look realy good! I love the idea of the machine making it own parts!!!

Fletcher
02-14-2011, 01:43 PM
Thanks! I love how you use the machine to create beautiful flowing surfaces on your instruments!

fwharris
02-14-2011, 02:30 PM
Great job!!

James RS
02-14-2011, 03:56 PM
Hi Folks,

I have been getting more requests for this file to make your own Dust Collector Hood to fit your Carvewright, so here it is for easy download, in the new DC sub-forum!

I, and several others, have tested this carve and used the part that it makes in our machines and it works great! However, please note that you downloading this file is your acknowledgement that I make or imply no warranties, or any liability whatsoever for any problems, injury, or damage you may cause to you, your tools, or your machine.(Just covering my butt...)

Ok I understand the warranties, question is how are you running with the lid open?

Fletcher
02-15-2011, 02:12 PM
Ok I understand the warranties, question is how are you running with the lid open?

Just cut out a "U" shape in your lid to let it close over the hose.

Icutone2
02-15-2011, 02:26 PM
Thank You this looks like something I can use!
Lee

geekviking
02-17-2011, 10:05 PM
Wow this look realy good! I love the idea of the machine making it own parts!!!

See, ~I KNEW~ this machine was dropped to us by either the Borg, or the Replicators!!!
(I think they feed on sawdust...)



THANK YOU Fletcher for the pattern to this, I know someone who doesn't have his "hood scoop" yet.

Fletcher
02-17-2011, 11:10 PM
I know someone who doesn't have his "hood scoop" yet.

No problem... That's a GREAT name for it! This "hood scoop" sits under the hood of your CW and scoops debris!

DurhamDev
02-19-2011, 02:29 PM
This is an amazing project. I learn something new every day! (I should have carved this before I tried my last sign - somehow, I won myself a "Y-Axis Error"... ...thankfully, I've since fixed the problem.)

:)

lawrence
02-19-2011, 05:28 PM
Well I had a go on Fletcher's design with a hunk of pi.. pi.. pi... domestic conifer.... Yesterday
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u313/ldr_klr/Carvewright/DSCF008021024x768.jpg
Some primer and then some gloss later...
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u313/ldr_klr/Carvewright/DSCF008921024x768.jpg
The tapped screws in the carvewright are for m4 (4MM) screws. I loc tighted some wing nuts on and now I can use either a power screwdriver or tighten/loosen the screws by hand. I haven't tried it to see how it works yet, but it appears that it is going to collect dust at the source very well
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u313/ldr_klr/Carvewright/DSCF009221024x768.jpg
The 2 spring clamps keep the door from accidentally opening
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u313/ldr_klr/Carvewright/DSCF009521024x768.jpg

It is very thoughtful that you made the pattern for .75 thickness stock-- this makes the material for the project easy to find for those out there that don't have access to thicker stock (a 1x8 from Ace Hardware covered things just fine... and cost me about $5.

Thanks for sharing the pattern, this is awesome.
Lawrence

Fletcher
02-19-2011, 06:28 PM
Thanks Lawrence - nice job! I'm glad people are using this pattern because it will save sooooo much aggravation.

Fletcher
02-19-2011, 06:30 PM
This is an amazing project. I learn something new every day! (I should have carved this before I tried my last sign - somehow, I won myself a "Y-Axis Error"... ...thankfully, I've since fixed the problem.)

:)

Thanks DD! Enjoy!

Frederick_P
02-19-2011, 07:15 PM
Now there are lots of great options for people to use. So if you don't have a dust collector on your machine, do it now!

James RS
02-20-2011, 06:32 AM
How difficult is it getting at the bit?

Fletcher
02-20-2011, 07:28 PM
How difficult is it getting at the bit?

It's not bad at all. I just move the y-truck to one side so the hose isn't in the way.

dbfletcher
02-20-2011, 07:49 PM
That should like it would be a goof feature enhancment request. A setting on the machine where we could tell it where we would like the head to stop for bit changes. For thoses who have Top DC's (who doesnt now??) we could choose to park on right for bit changes. Just thinking to myself.

Capt Bruce
02-21-2011, 07:10 AM
Until such an off-center parking feature is added or if you don't want to move the head, there are quick disconnect spring clamps (squeeze two handles) that would allow the hose to be quickly disconnected from the top of the dust collector hood and moved aside for a moment. Check Peachtree Woodworking, and I'm sure others offer this this type of clamp as well. Just a thought.

gwhiz
02-21-2011, 09:31 AM
How difficult is it getting at the bit?

I just reach around the hose--insert the wrench on the right and remove/replace the bit from the left...

Kenm810
02-21-2011, 09:31 AM
Good Idea Capt,


I have a couple that I've used aronud the shop for quick change connectors between Machines.
http://www.ptreeusa.com/dusthoseclamps.htm

Icutone2
02-21-2011, 01:54 PM
Thank You for the Mpc file I carved one for each machine and I no longer have dust on the floor around the machine to clean up. I use both Top and Bottom dust collection is is GREAT!!!
Lee

lilskip
02-25-2011, 09:05 PM
sorry for the little silly question. i see that it is drawn as a 2 sided carve. does this mean i need to split it into 2 different project files or will it prompt me to flip it over haha.

DurhamDev
02-25-2011, 09:28 PM
For those who use this, which setting did you use? Draft, Normal, Best or Optimal? Am I safe to assume that draft would likely be sufficient, possibly requiring only light sanding?

Fletcher
02-25-2011, 09:30 PM
sorry for the little silly question. i see that it is drawn as a 2 sided carve. does this mean i need to split it into 2 different project files or will it prompt me to flip it over haha.

The CW is built to do 2-sided carving - no need to split up the project at all. Just read the instructions for 2-sided carving, as it is critical which direction you flip the board. Then load your board, follow the prompts on the lcd screen and carve away!

Fletcher
02-25-2011, 09:33 PM
For those who use this, which setting did you use? Draft, Normal, Best or Optimal? Am I safe to assume that draft would likely be sufficient, possibly requiring only light sanding?

I used normal(2.5 hours roughly) but draft should be okay if you don't want to paint it up or anything.

lilskip
02-26-2011, 06:58 PM
Thanks for the Pattern it carved out perfectly. I just think its funny that the Dust collection adapter makes such a mess you need the dust collector hooked up.....

Fletcher
02-26-2011, 08:39 PM
Thanks for the Pattern it carved out perfectly. I just think its funny that the Dust collection adapter makes such a mess you need the dust collector hooked up.....

No prob... Glad you like it, and also glad you will have a cleaner machine from now on!

jaustin
02-27-2011, 07:24 PM
Would anyone be willing to make this for me? If so let me know how much shipped to 27360.
I would like to have a dust collection setup before learning how to use the carvewright.

badger2424
03-03-2011, 06:36 AM
Thanks fletch, works great and an excellent design, good job.

Fletcher
03-05-2011, 05:59 PM
Thanks fletch, works great and an excellent design, good job.

You're welcome - Thanks kindly!

mwhatch
03-07-2011, 07:46 PM
Couple of quick questions.

What is the best way to cut the cover?

What is the size of the screws for those two threaded inserts?

I am really looking forward to using this setup. Thank you Fletcher. May I ask what software you used to design this?

Thanks

fwharris
03-07-2011, 07:59 PM
Couple of quick questions.

What is the best way to cut the cover?

What is the size of the screws for those two threaded inserts?

I am really looking forward to using this setup. Thank you Fletcher. May I ask what software you used to design this?

Thanks

Morton,

I used a cut off wheel and the dremile to cut the door down. Just make sure you cover the insides of the CW with a big rag to keep any chips and flakes from getting into the machine. I believe the screw size is M4...

Fletcher
03-07-2011, 08:12 PM
Thanks FWH!

mwhatch - this part was designed in Rhino and imported with the STL importer.

Enjoy!

Alan Malmstrom
03-08-2011, 10:38 AM
Wow this is really cool! But I have a few Questions.

1)I wonder, does this work for the new C model?
2)Also I was looking at the mpc and the circles look as though they are cut all the way through the board. So I'm wondering if I were to carve both sides of the board wouldn't I run the risk of jamming the bit which could cause problems. Thats what I am thinking but I have no idea. To tell the truth I have not even gotten my machine yet (its being shipped from amazon).
3)Are there holes already in the carvewright machine that will take the screws or do I need to drill them (Obviously lock washers are necesary).
4)I see that I will have to cut an opening in the plastic cover and I have no problem doing that but would it void the warranty?
5)Also I imagine that the extra round wheel shape to extend the flange would have to be glued to the main piece (collector) is that correct?
6)Where are the directions found for doing a two sided carve? I would want to flip the board in the right direction and it would have to be centered correctly.

I didn't notice any extra info on this when I read through the posts maybe there is something available that I did not notice.

Alan

gwhiz
03-08-2011, 11:58 AM
1. Yes.
2. Nope--the cut off parts are held in place with tabs, you'll cut it apart with a chisel
3. Yes--it utilizes holes that exist in the CW
4. I'll let CW answer that, but reports are that once you explain why the cover is cut it shouldn't be an issue. It's easy to replace if necessary.
5. Yes.
6. In the manual. You'll flip it top to bottom--you flip lengthwise for signs, but vertically for everything else. The CW will center it for you.

Alan Malmstrom
03-09-2011, 09:33 AM
Thanks gwhiz, I now know how to do it. This will be my first project once I get the machine. I guess you cant see the tabs on the cut out but they are there.

Since the board size of the mpc is 20" L by 5.5" width and .75" depth I will simply add 7" to the length (27") in the carvewright for the ends and let her rip.

I'll probably do it in pine and sand her up with my sanding mop and paint it black.

Thanks Fletcher, Alan

Fletcher
03-09-2011, 09:41 AM
Thanks gwhiz for filling in the blanks! The perfect person to answer since this design was inspired by your DC video!

No problem Alan - making it your first project is a wise move. Enjoy your new machine!

Alan Malmstrom
03-12-2011, 09:36 PM
Today I carved the DC Dust Collector and it worked out very well without a hitch. The glue is drying right now and tomorrow I will Stain it and then use polyurethane on it. I was going to paint it black but the wood grain on the Pine looks so good that I have desided to stain it. I will go to the store tomorrow to get the 4 mm screws and also check for an easy release hose clamp. Also I have some wire that I will connect to the screw and wrap around the hose to avoid static or sparks like fletchers photo in the first thread.

eelamb
03-12-2011, 10:21 PM
Congrats, many more to come I am sure.

Alan Malmstrom
03-13-2011, 05:49 PM
When I made the Dust Collector the machine also cut the ends off the board too all in one pass. I mean that the original board size was 20" but I put in a 27" inch board to have the 3.5" extra on each side for contact with the head rollers but when it was done carving it cut out the ends to make the board 20" and it did it automatically. (The machine automatically avoided the little round tracking sensor though). It Also cut all the way through the board all in one pass so I could really hear the motor working hard. It did not use multiple passes. But does anybody know how I can tell it Not to make this kind of cut? I will be carving boards in the future and I don't want it to cut the 3.5" off the board every time.

eelamb
03-13-2011, 06:20 PM
Alan, I will let the experts give the finial answer, but when you loaded the board it asks to cut to length, you should say no.

In designer the cut path can be set to cut in more than one pass by setting the max dept, most recommend .2 or less per pass.

badger2424
03-14-2011, 12:11 AM
Allen, when you use the cutout option, the program will give you the option of bit and depth profile. Check the box for max depth cut and put in a value of .125 , especially on hardwoods. I use .125 on all cuts, and haven't broken a bit on either hard or soft wood. Takes a little bit longer but saves $40 on broken bit. Some guys use .20 or .25 on soft woods for their depth and works great for them. .125 won't break anything unless u put a screw or bolt in the way. Done that before. Let us know if we can help otherwise.

jaustin
03-15-2011, 10:51 AM
Fletcher thanks for the pattern

I ran this carve today.
I had a couple of problems.
1- on the screw holes it acted like it was drilling them but it never went into the wood.
2-on the hose adapter circle it only cut half way thru the board and that was after flipping. Display did tell me to flip board before I flipped it.

I was able to drill the holes out with a drill and used a jigsaw to finish cutting out the adapter. Have to pick up bolts today to mount it after the glue dries.

I used the 1/16th bit to do the whole carve, carvewright is the C version.

Alan Malmstrom
03-15-2011, 04:08 PM
Hi, jaustin
I know that when I did my DC the machine asked me to switch to the cutting bit two times. I think you have to watch for the words cutting bit and carving bit and always use the 1/16 carving and 1/8 cutting. The first time I put the cutting bit in it measured it and then I switched to the carving bit it carved and then it asked for the cutting bit and then it cut. So you have to make sure that it measured the cutting bit correctly so it cuts all the way through.

Fletcher
03-21-2011, 08:41 PM
Hi, jaustin
I know that when I did my DC the machine asked me to switch to the cutting bit two times. I think you have to watch for the words cutting bit and carving bit and always use the 1/16 carving and 1/8 cutting. The first time I put the cutting bit in it measured it and then I switched to the carving bit it carved and then it asked for the cutting bit and then it cut. So you have to make sure that it measured the cutting bit correctly so it cuts all the way through.

I think Alan hit the nail on the head...

qsligh
03-26-2011, 08:43 PM
I hope that the engineers at LHR will take up the tourch and make a DC and market it to the customers. DYI is great, but having that "get out of jail free card" is better that way you don't worry about "BOHICA"! You ole salts like myself will know what I'm talking about....

Fletcher
03-26-2011, 08:52 PM
I hope that the engineers at LHR will take up the tourch and make a DC and market it to the customers. DYI is great, but having that "get out of jail free card" is better that way you don't worry about "BOHICA"! You ole salts like myself will know what I'm talking about....

I agree 100%!

jaroot
04-07-2011, 06:57 PM
Well I just finished carving out the "Fletcher DC" and made a couple of modifications. I haven't used it yet but hope to in the next day or so. I still need to get screws or something to mount it with and do a little more sanding on the transitions from duct to extender and extender to ring.

My current DC is made from plans that Fredrick posted but I like this one better because of the width. I added the extension so that I can keep the hose outside of the cover. Hopefully it won't "trip" the air too much.

Fletcher
04-07-2011, 08:25 PM
Well I just finished carving out the "Fletcher DC" and made a couple of modifications. I haven't used it yet but hope to in the next day or so. I still need to get screws or something to mount it with and do a little more sanding on the transitions from duct to extender and extender to ring.

My current DC is made from plans that Fredrick posted but I like this one better because of the width. I added the extension so that I can keep the hose outside of the cover. Hopefully it won't "trip" the air too much.

That's a really cool mod jaroot!

jaroot
04-07-2011, 09:31 PM
Thanks! I almost got it all cut out before I broke my cutting bit.


That's a really cool mod jaroot!

Alan Malmstrom
04-11-2011, 06:37 PM
I bought some attachment parts from Rockler and they fit the Fletcher DC perfectly. All I did was cut a hole in the clear cover plate and the first peice fits snugly right on the wooden DC and then I close the cover and the threaded dust collector attachment fits right over the first one and even helps to keep the cover closed. I also have a coper wire screwed into one of the screws holdong the DC on the machine. I also put a sock in one side of the DC to get more air flow on the Touchpad side of the machine. I'm telling you I have hardly any dust left in the machine at all.

435514355343549

Alan

Fletcher
04-14-2011, 08:01 PM
Nicely done Alan!

b.sumner47
04-15-2011, 01:46 PM
Nice work Allen. I will carve mine now after seeing your set-up. Thanks , Capt Barry

usd5000000
04-24-2011, 11:51 PM
Hello, Thanks for the DC design.

Any chance moving the hose attachment ring a little to the left side? Wouldn't this help in two ways:

1) have more suction on the left where most of the carves are happening.

2) keep the hose out of the way to make changing bits easier?

I understand some suction on the right side would be sacrificed.

Thanks,
Jeff

jaustin
04-24-2011, 11:54 PM
I haven't tried it yet. But next carve i plan on putting tape over the right side to see if it helps more.

jgowrie
10-07-2011, 10:03 AM
I am running this project now and just flipped the board to continue the FRONT side of the project... Is it possible that the machine asks for the 1/8" cutting TWICE? I am pretty sure it asked for the 1/8" cutting bit which I loaded. After it ran through it's checks it stopped and is again asking for the 1/8" cutting bit.. This is the first carve I've done where the DRILL tool is used and I'm thinking maybe it asks for the 1/8" bit twice because of that?

I'm a little nervous to start the front carve until I know for sure if I read everything on the screen correctly. I guess my alternative is to delete the REAR carve and restart the project with just the front carve so I'll be able to start the process over.

AskBud
10-07-2011, 11:04 AM
I am running this project now and just flipped the board to continue the FRONT side of the project... Is it possible that the machine asks for the 1/8" cutting TWICE? I am pretty sure it asked for the 1/8" cutting bit which I loaded. After it ran through it's checks it stopped and is again asking for the 1/8" cutting bit.. This is the first carve I've done where the DRILL tool is used and I'm thinking maybe it asks for the 1/8" bit twice because of that?

I'm a little nervous to start the front carve until I know for sure if I read everything on the screen correctly. I guess my alternative is to delete the REAR carve and restart the project with just the front carve so I'll be able to start the process over.YES, it does (at times).
AskBud

jgowrie
10-07-2011, 11:31 AM
Thank, Bud. I ended up reloading the mpc with only the front carve and I did notice it asked for the DRILL and CUT bit separately, even though it's the same bit for both processes. I didn't notice that subtle difference the first time.

Fletcher
10-10-2011, 02:43 PM
Hello, Thanks for the DC design.

Any chance moving the hose attachment ring a little to the left side? Wouldn't this help in two ways:

1) have more suction on the left where most of the carves are happening.

2) keep the hose out of the way to make changing bits easier?

I understand some suction on the right side would be sacrificed.

Thanks,
Jeff

You're welcome... Most of my carvings were using the full width, so I designed it to work for the whole width. Changing bits has never been a problem for me with the DC in place.

mikedn
12-04-2011, 09:21 AM
I want to thank the OP for the MPC for this dust collection modification.

I received my first carvewright last week and I was itching to get it to work. After spending a couple of days watching the instructional video, reading the hardware and software manuals cover-to-cover, and perusing the forums for any last-minute 'gotchas', I put together a basic design for a bathroom sign last weekend and put the unit to work.

I was surprised (although shouldn't have been, I suppose) about the amount of wood dust that collected in nooks and crannies of the machine. I could rapidly see how this was going to become a major issue with long-term maintenance and care of the machine. I have to admit I am surprised that CW doesn't have a better dust collection system in place -- another poster alluded to this, you would think the addition of a dust-collection port would help them significantly with warrantee issues and overall, better customer satisfaction.

Anyway, I have a delta 50-850 unit for DC. My workshop is small, so all my tools are portable on casters for easy relocation when they're not in use. To use my carvewright, I have to set it on my table saw and roll up the delta unit to its side.

Being I was excited to get started using my unit, I found this DC modification and decided to implement it. I used a spare piece of poplar I had laying around which was the right size... I figure this will paint up nicely. I didn't, however, have the patience to take the circular connector and glue it up, so I took one of my 4" PVC DC flanges I had laying around and attached it to the output port using two small screws from the underside of the unit, after trimming it to size using my dremel. I also used a fair amount of silicone sealant on the inner and outer edges to help seal the unit. I found man-handling my heavy-duty 4" DC hose directly to the adapter a major PITA, so I found a 3" PVC elbow to install on the unit. I secured this with a single screw in the front (near the cutting head, not pictured) to keep the elbow from wanting to sag under the weight of the heavy-duty hose.


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-LGx7lLc8BA0/TtuMtFcAISI/AAAAAAAABsY/QemKSJCIbOM/s400/DSC08218.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MwQWRzGzln0/TtuM0LTHNDI/AAAAAAAABso/7uJLWeH68Hg/s400/DSC08220.JPG


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-SCotOMeiIs8/TtuM3GZpZjI/AAAAAAAABs4/abL2SPNdLCE/s400/DSC08224.JPGOnce installed, I carved out a new sign for one of the stalls in my barn... and it worked beautifully. Virtually no dust on the workpiece... still a small amount of fine particulate matter inside the unit and along the backside, but compared to previous carvings, a 1000% improvement!

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-k2W_XAAPlf8/TtuOLL_TRBI/AAAAAAAABtM/J7i7n2NNfM8/s800/DSC08226.JPG

I think the only other modification to this setup I may make is to switch the 90 degree elbow to a 45 degree elbow.... I'll have to pick one up next time I'm near the depot.

Fletcher
12-07-2011, 05:03 PM
I want to thank the OP for the MPC for this dust collection modification.

You're very welcome - glad it worked for you. Nice mod too!

Underdog
03-22-2013, 05:28 PM
Fixin' ta machine this out... I've got a beech board prepped 5-1/2" x 27-1/16" x 3/4". It's flat and straight and square.
I'm probably going to run this on "normal" or "best" setting.

Is there anything else I need to know? Such as setting up my 1/8" bit for .2" depth cuts?

Underdog
03-22-2013, 06:02 PM
Or perhaps optimizing the bits on a cut path?

lawrence
03-22-2013, 11:56 PM
pretty sure I ran mine in draft...

Other than that, standard carve really

Lawrence

bergerud
03-23-2013, 12:13 AM
pretty sure I ran mine in draft...

Other than that, standard carve really

Lawrence

Lawrence, did your original mpc have that off the board tab I just posted about in the other thread? Do you still have the file?

lawrence
03-23-2013, 08:43 AM
I don't... I actually looked for it a while back to give to Jim but could only find this thread.

I'm not sure about the tab- it's been quite a while since I carved mine

Lawrence

eelamb
03-23-2013, 08:54 AM
Here is one form 1/2011. Did not see any extra tab on this one.

bergerud
03-23-2013, 09:25 AM
I see the extra tab there. I have, however, done a small experiment with the extra tab on a simpler carve and it did not shift the carving. I do not think it is the cause of the problem.

eelamb
03-23-2013, 09:36 AM
Yes I zoomed out and it was there, and just deleted it.

fireguybl
03-28-2013, 09:05 PM
After several hours reading through all post on Dust Collection, I downloaded your DC Pattern. I have carved out 3, one for each of my machines. I did make some extension's to bring hose hookup outside the hood. After installing first one (using Harbour Frieght 2hp Dust collector w/ 4" hose) a 6 hour carve, it picked up I'd say 98% of the dust hardly any clean up needed on my machine. Thanks for posting it.

Underdog
04-01-2013, 01:45 PM
Yes, thank you very much for posting this. I'm amazed that any CW continues to work without such an attachment. I finally got mine to cut out somewhat correctly. I'd appreciate any input here on what might have gone wrong with the second attempt:
http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?22897-2nd-side-of-carve-didn-t-line-up-correctly.-What-happened/page3

I was a little bummed about cutting a hole in the lid at first... but I got over it when I realized that even with the extension I turned on the lathe, the lid just flips right over the extension after the hose is removed. You do have to position the DC correctly though...
613736137461375

If you look closely, you can see where I angled all these extensions so they would hit the lid in the right spot. I was glad I didn't have to cut the lid right through the edge creating more weakness.

Now to paint this thing and bolt it down.

lawrence
04-01-2013, 06:14 PM
nice job - good to see that it worked out well for ya- if you're concerned about the lid in case of resale etc. you can order an uncut one to have in reserve.

You should notice a significant reduction in dust- just be careful of static electricity frying your machine!

Congrats,

Lawrence

Underdog
04-02-2013, 07:55 AM
Thanks Lawrence! I'm wondering how one would prevent static electricity from frying one's machine? Ground wires everywhere?

lawrence
04-02-2013, 08:28 AM
lotsa folks ground their hoses- if you search for "static" in the search function you'll find some good responses- (or folks will chime in after me now)

I've been playing russian roulette a bit for a couple of years now--- no ground on my dust collection hose... I've gotten a couple
of scares, but my machine is still humming along-- YMMV

Lawrence

KeystoneChuck
06-19-2013, 12:06 AM
Can anyone tell me which bits I will need to complete this DC unit. I just broke my 1/8" cutting bit and didn't want to go and get started to find out I need that bit. If I do need the 1/8" cutting bit do you know if I can sub in the 3/16" cutting?

chief2007
06-19-2013, 08:28 AM
I looked over the MPC - see no reason why you could not change the 1/8 bit to the 3/16 bit. I would make the change on the mpc and then upload it rather than on the fly at the machine.

KeystoneChuck
06-20-2013, 03:50 PM
Just got done carving this out (2 hrs 28 min) out of some Lowes pine that I found no knots in ("Select Premium" my butt; I'd hate to see the non select). It is a work of art. My brother came over and said this is some "Terminator Sh#*" machines making parts for themselves. I did change the cut out bit for the ring from 1/8" to 3/8" and it lines up perfectly. Thanks for posting. And my dad says "nothing in this world is free".

lawrence
06-20-2013, 03:54 PM
just wait until you sand/paint it to match and put it on... it' s SMOOTH

Lawrence

KeystoneChuck
06-20-2013, 04:07 PM
Do you guys just glue the ring onto the hood with wood glue or did you glue/nail. I was also (before I carved this beauty) just going to slap it on bare, Now seeing how it turned out I was going to paint or stain it. I thought if I painted it with some gloss enamel it would aid in the "slickness" of the air flow. Then I though it was to nice to cover with paint I would stain it to look like a piece of furniture and it would be one hell of a conversation piece when my buddies (who are too cheap to buy their own CW) come over to play. Any advantage to smoothing out the air flow or is it strong enough as is?

lawrence
06-20-2013, 04:19 PM
Just glue worked fine for mine- 2+ years later and it is still truckin'

I primed/painted mine for the same reasons- it looks better too... I put pics back in my original post from 2 years ago (page 1 of this thread)

Lawrence

atldal
11-25-2013, 10:09 AM
I know this has been answered on here before, but I can't find it. What are the screw thread sizes for the mounting holes?

fwharris
11-25-2013, 10:31 AM
I know this has been answered on here before, but I can't find it. What are the screw thread sizes for the mounting holes?

Screw size is 4 MM.

atldal
11-25-2013, 11:09 AM
Thank you very much

Fletcher
12-28-2013, 03:55 PM
Wow! I haven't been on here in awhile... I'm glad you are liking the DC!

dcj
02-04-2014, 10:12 PM
Alot of folks ask about cutting the plastic cover. After a couple of projects on my machine it would shut off when you raise the hood (I would vacuum the dust out) so I just hard wired the switch. I can open and close at will while the machine runs. If warranty is issue, just hook back up if sending machine in, they don't know its been unhooked. If using these dust collectors, the plastic hood comes off easy.

fwharris
02-04-2014, 10:18 PM
Alot of folks ask about cutting the plastic cover. After a couple of projects on my machine it would shut off when you raise the hood (I would vacuum the dust out) so I just hard wired the switch. I can open and close at will while the machine runs. If warranty is issue, just hook back up if sending machine in, they don't know its been unhooked. If using these dust collectors, the plastic hood comes off easy.

By pass the safety features at your own risk, they do serve a purpose.

bergerud
02-04-2014, 10:25 PM
Alot of folks ask about cutting the plastic cover. After a couple of projects on my machine it would shut off when you raise the hood (I would vacuum the dust out) so I just hard wired the switch. I can open and close at will while the machine runs. If warranty is issue, just hook back up if sending machine in, they don't know its been unhooked. If using these dust collectors, the plastic hood comes off easy.

The day will come when the bit is coming out, the board shifts, a cutout piece jams the belt.... and as you fumble for the stop button, it breaks. Could have just opened the cover and saved the day.

lynnfrwd
02-04-2014, 11:05 PM
Sticking a vacuum in there while on can short your controller. Get a dust insert, blow the dust out of your switch and reconnect your safety device. Cheaper than a controller and less chance of harm to your digits.

Underdog
02-07-2014, 01:28 PM
If warranty is issue, just hook back up if sending machine in, they don't know its been unhooked. .

Yeah.. except that now they do know. You just told them.

dcj
02-07-2014, 06:25 PM
I do not have a large shop hose to hookup and use a 1 1/2 in. hose. This is how I am attaching, it
swivals so you can put anywhere. Also just so not to get anyone upset and make sure all rules are
followed, I will cut hood (will order new one) and switch is hooked back up. I have an A machine and
674376743867439is long since out of warrenty.

dcj
02-08-2014, 05:43 PM
This is now how I am attaching hose (it swivels). Using 2 1/4 inch shop vac hose (standard) with the adaptor
that hooks two hoses together. I added a piece of aluminum to bottom side. On a 45 min. test project,
the dust was minimal (middle picture) and something I can live with. The aluminum angles at about a 45
degree and is about an 1/8 above board while being cut.

6746067461674626746367464

Iron Mike
05-07-2014, 10:30 PM
Hi everyone,

I received my CarveWright yesterday mid-morning and completed my first carve that afternoon. I did 'Fletcher's DC' which turned out quite nice. I'm using 2-1/4" hose on my vac system and would like to know how I might proceed with cutting a hole in the shield. I've made a reducing collar and attached a quick disconnect (sorta) coupling which will be vertical - no pics yet but will later. I'm thinking of using my flex shaft rotary tool but have never cut plastic - any suggestions on the type of cutter or technique to use?

Looking forward to joining in and learning from the vast experience shared so freely on the forum.

p.s.

Anyone have a recommendation for a good brand of double-sided tape? I have some (brand unknown) but it is quite aggressive and hard to get pieces seperated and off of the project.

CW-HAL9000
05-08-2014, 09:02 PM
I used a dremmel tool with a cutting disc and although it melted a little it cut it well and the melted plastic came off with my fingers and left a clean cut.

eelamb
05-08-2014, 09:29 PM
Take the cover off, lay a steel rule along the edge you want to cut off. Take a sharp point (they make a plastic knife for a few bucks at lowes) object and scribe a line being careful the first time to stay on the rule edge. Once you have a scribe mark scribe it again and again using more pressure. Once you have it cut fairly deep, snap it. Like glass the plastic will break along the line.

Only applies with a straight line!

SteveNelson46
05-09-2014, 07:33 AM
Hi everyone,

I received my CarveWright yesterday mid-morning and completed my first carve that afternoon. I did 'Fletcher's DC' which turned out quite nice. I'm using 2-1/4" hose on my vac system and would like to know how I might proceed with cutting a hole in the shield. I've made a reducing collar and attached a quick disconnect (sorta) coupling which will be vertical - no pics yet but will later. I'm thinking of using my flex shaft rotary tool but have never cut plastic - any suggestions on the type of cutter or technique to use?

Looking forward to joining in and learning from the vast experience shared so freely on the forum.

p.s.

Anyone have a recommendation for a good brand of double-sided tape? I have some (brand unknown) but it is quite aggressive and hard to get pieces seperated and off of the project.

I cut mine with a band saw and a good fence. Perfectly straight and no melting.

SteveNelson46
05-09-2014, 07:39 AM
Anyone have a recommendation for a good brand of double-sided tape? I have some (brand unknown) but it is quite aggressive and hard to get pieces seperated and off of the project.

I use Woodcraft's "turner's tape". It holds well and thin enough to use in sleds.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2000390/3903/Double-faced-Tape-1-x-36-Yds.aspx

Iron Mike
05-09-2014, 09:36 AM
Thanks for the inputs guys, I'll give it go in a couple of hours.

Iron Mike
05-10-2014, 03:38 PM
Looks like I got it done without any major mishap. The hose connections are from a old shop-vac and the male/female connectors friction-fit together so it's very easy to connect/disconnect and the lid will open enough to change bits. Did a short plywood carve and I'm quite happy with it. :D Now to learn how to use the machine. Thanks for the cutting and tape suggestions.

FYI - the rollers I use with my table saw as run-off extensions; either single (centered behind the blade) or side-by-side (for wider work). By adjusting the chain links at the machine and roller length extension I can quickly adjust distance and height position. The turnbuckles give me fine tuning for height. Everything moves with the machines so no worry about an uneven floor and such.


6941769418694196942069421

unitedcases
05-10-2014, 06:19 PM
Nice. That cart setup is sharp too.

Underdog
05-21-2014, 12:57 PM
Good job on those DC carves! Nice setup.