Traction Belt shreaded to oblivion!

[Carrott]

I went to check out my project a few weeks ago and found my machine as is in the attached pictures. 95% of the belt was torn right off under the guide on the left side (with the card slot facing you) I looks to me like somehow the guide dug into the belt and ripped it to shreds. Sorry I do not have a picture of the shreaded part of the belt as I tossed it without thinking.

NEWay, I got my new belts... 2 sets, and am ready to install them. I am wondering if I need to take any special precautions as there is only a 2" strip on the back side holding pressure on the springs. The other side of the roller is already hitting the infeed table and I dont want to have parts flying all over the place if I just remove the track assembly.

If anyone has any suggestions before I remove any screws, please feel free to post them fer me. I would be greatly appreciative.

Also.... If you know what may have caused this to happen I would be interested in hearing from you.

TIA: Barry

[Digitalwoodshop]

Well the belts do tear... You need to watch them every project... That belt slides toward the keypad and rolls under... It is hard to see.

When it happens to me, I rip a 3/4 inch strip off the belt at the keypad side... The last belt I ripped 6 times before replacing it.

You may have broken the X Gear too.....

There is a PDF some where with belt changing instruction. ASK BUD will be along shortly and post the link.... He is good at that... me.... not so much.... Just a hands on kind of guy...

Good Luck,

AL

[liquidguitars]

I agree, I cut 5/8 off the belt first thing.. even with the new rubber belts It's a good idea.



If you know what may have caused this to happen I would be interested in hearing from you


For me it's been a drywall screw head poking down to far in the sled.

[mtylerfl]

Also.... If you know what may have caused this to happen I would be interested in hearing from you.

TIA: Barry

Hi Barry,

Sorry to hear you had the belt problem. The following Tips & Tricks has some things to watch for, as far as what can cause that (and other issues).

ISSUE 27 January – February 2010 – Maintaining Accurate Board Tracking (http://www.carvewright.com/downloads/tips/CarveWrightTips&Tricks_Jan_Feb10.pdf)

Typical causes of belt rip are... uneven head, head pressure not correct, shop too cold (affecting head pressure), a broken bit of wood getting caught which interferes with the belt as it moves, defect in a board that snags the belt, board warped or cupped, sliding plate too tight against the board, board doesn't have parallel sides, causing the board to "wedge" and tear the belt and break a gear..

One of my machines still has the original sandpaper belts (almost four years old now)...have not had a rip or tear! So, if all is in order with the machine (and the material placed in it), the belts should last you a very long time. My other machine has the upgrade heavy-duty rubber belts...no problem with those either, of course. I think it is a very worthwhile upgrade!

[TerryT]

Wow! I guess I'm pretty lucky in 4 years and almost a 1000 hours of carving, I have never rolled a belt! Now, watch, I'll probably do it on the next project.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Terry,

I take it you do wide boards normally? I think narrow 6 inch boards cause the stretching and shifitng...

AL

[kool69sporty]

LG, did I read you correctly? Are you suggesting to cut 5/8" off of the rubber belts, right from the start? Logic here? Or am I not reading correctly??
Joe

[liquidguitars]

Yes, but i have a older machine it was cut it off or move the AUX roller, I cut it.

[TerryT]

Terry,

I take it you do wide boards normally? I think narrow 6 inch boards cause the stretching and shifitng...

AL

You have a point Al. The narrower the board the more side stress is applied. The more likely the belt will walk. Hmm... cool. Thanks for the insight.

[Carrott]

Thanks for the tips on what to look for, but the question still remains. How much pressure is still on that spring on the front side of the roller where the belt is gone? Can I safely take the screws out without damaging anything inside the machine, or worse.... me?

Carrott

[Ike]

Carrot taking the tables out is a real easy process all it takes is removing the 4 allen screws. Then slide table towards the right to clear the inside fence and you have the table out. To remove the belt I use 2 bar clamps since I don't have a vise that opens wide enough. Once compressed you will see a hole where you need to put an old drill bit or nail. Then remove the clamps or out of the vise and slip the belt off. Then replace the belt put in back in the vise or use the 2 bar clamps to hold and remove pins and slowly release the pressure.

The pressure is the same regardless if a belt is on or off!

Ike

[Digitalwoodshop]

You have a point Al. The narrower the board the more side stress is applied. The more likely the belt will walk. Hmm... cool. Thanks for the insight.

Someone here last summer suggested placing another 6 inch board on the other side of the sliding bit plate to even out the pressure....

I have a new belt and already have cut it twice... Almost all 6 inch wide projects.... That is where I got the idea.....

AL

[alan.galbraith]

I've ripped a couple of belts, but haven't done so it quite some time. I sand down the leading and trailing edges of the boards so they are sharp. Don't know for sure, but it has helped me.

[Icutone2]

I know that this is an old post but I found a prob with the roller assembly that I thought was a good thing to know a bought.
For me it was the out-feed side, I found that the spring holding rod that connects to the roller to keep pressure on the belt,
the pin that goes into the roller was only tack welded on one side and broke and let the belt track to the side and off the roller.
I will check the other 3 rod ends tonight, hope this was just a freak thing but it is bought the more you know. Hope this helps someone
in the future. A simple fix beats replacing the hole roller assembly.
Lee