Placing a carve region within a carve region

[SharonB]

On the back side of the attached pattern I would like to place a 1/2 deep carve region. This carve region is within another carve region and I don't comprehend the proceedure to accomplishing this. I've tried merge: normal, additive, subtractive. I've used -0.500 for depth.

I know the answer must be simple and I've probably danced all around the solution but I would appreciate it if someone would point me in the right direction.

The stool pattern is one that DickB posted. I'm just trying to make it simpler to put together. See the one that I've already made using dowels in the gallery.

[TerryT]

I think if you apply the Merge additive to the surrounding items rather than the 1/2 inch carve region it should work.

[SharonB]

Terry.... thanks, that worked for all but where the filagree crosses. And that part will be easy to clean up. I'll have to make a note of your instructions for later use.

[mtylerfl]

Hi Sharon,

I didn't bother with playing with Groups, Merges, etc. as it is usually preferable to perform pocket cuts, slots or dados (in this case) with a straight bit anyway so you don't get the tapered sides from using the carving bit for such tasks.

In the modified version (attached below), I just assigned the 1/8th Straight bit (i.e., the Cutting Bit) to the outline and a series of connected lines for hogging out the material as an example for you to look at. I did not do that on your other dados, but you can do that yourself, if you want the dado to have straight (not tapered) sides.

Notice that I needed to apply an inset of 0.062" to the rectangle outline to make sure the bit did not "overcut" the area (i.e., the bit stays inside the rectangle outline)....the 0.062" is an amount approximately equal to the bit radius...you could change that to 0.063" if you wish. Both values are equally close to the bit radius, but the 0.062" one will be "tighter" than the other, which you can sand out if necessary using a 1/2" thick scrap wood piece wrapped in sandpaper.

[Capt Bruce]

Nice simple solution Michael. I've twice forgotten the built in "taper" when cutting mortise style pockets with the 1/16" carving bit. They were both small areas so I just corrected my oversight with a sharp chisel and increased the tenon size to the difference. Now, how do I key myself to remember your solution next time I'm designing? . . . . "If it's a mortise, think of MTYLERFL." That will do it. Thanks

[SharonB]

Michael....I'll certain give your method a try. I didn't give a thought to the bit being tapered....guess I need to do design work more often. When I made the first stool I put the slots in using the router table but thought on the next one I'd like to use the cw. So it's back to designer and another learning opportunity.

[mtylerfl]

Michael....I'll certain give your method a try. I didn't give a thought to the bit being tapered....guess I need to do design work more often. When I made the first stool I put the slots in using the router table but thought on the next one I'd like to use the cw. So it's back to designer and another learning opportunity.

Hi Sharon,

Yes, that technique is my favorite for slots and such...have used it quite a lot on projects. I have been "lobbying" for a true pocketing feature that would allow us to select a straight bit for carve regions. I expect we will see that in the future, but for now, we can do the same thing manually.