wooden bow making

[gman]

I would like to use the Carvewright to cut out traditional Indian style archery bows but I don't know where to start with the designer program. The finished bow would be 1" thick and about 72" long with tapers from 1" in the middle to about 1/2" at the ends. If I could get a start maybe I could go from there. I've used the software and the machine quite a bit but never created anything other than from patterns. Thank you much for any direction to get me going.

[TerryT]

By traditional bows I'm guessing they will be one piece not laminated? What length, 40 to 50 inches?

[gman]

By traditional bows I'm guessing they will be one piece not laminated? What length, 40 to 50 inches?
I'm told 72" in length and not laminated. What do you think? Possible?

[Kenm810]

I've read that English Long Bows were made of Yew and often 72" or longer,
but Native American Bows were 40" to 50" or shorter

[gman]

Well, he said 72" so maybe I am mistaken in the nomenclature, but is that significant? Also, I do have the scanning probe but have never used it. Would this be a time and would a sled need to be used to get both sides with their taper handled?

[TerryT]

Well, he said 72" so maybe I am mistaken in the nomenclature, but is that significant? Also, I do have the scanning probe but have never used it. Would this be a time and would a sled need to be used to get both sides with their taper handled?
I don't think it matters either way. You should be able to do it easily. Are you going to scan a bow that you already have?

[bjbethke]

When I was young and lived in Illinois we had a 120 A. farm that had lots of Osage Oranges along the line fences, that's a great wood to make Bows. Here is a PDF that shows I use to make them.

[gashawk]

With a traditional bow the wood is cut by quartering the tree so the grain gives maximum strenght. The limbs must be balanced by taking off small scrapes of wood until it shoots straigt and prevents breaking of weakest limb. I think it woud be easier to cut parts out and laminate the bow.
Either way you you can carve it. Good Luck and let us know how it comes out.

[Kenm810]

Here's one drawn up with CW Designer -- tapered back and sides with a 1.25" wide x 1" thick Grip Area.
Just something to look at --- or play around with

[gman]

I don't think it matters either way. You should be able to do it easily. Are you going to scan a bow that you already have?
Yes, now that I remembered the scanning probe, that may be a good way. He has numerous bows I could use.

[Capt Bruce]

My father described and showed me his long bow (one of several) he'd made in Pasadena, CA as a boy using branches from lemonwood. It was over 45 years old at that point and still had tremendous flexibility and power. They looked for a natural curve in the limb so the grain would be centered and parallel even as the ends were carved thinner with a spoke shave.
Just for what it's worth.

[liquidguitars]

Pasadena, CA as a boy using branches from lemonwood.


This is where my parents grew up 2..

[Capt Bruce]

This is where my parents grew up 2..

741 S. Los Robles Avenue if my memory serves. Grandfather's family and moved there from Vermont just before the turn of the century when the sunshine of California was "a cure" for consumption (TB?).

[gman]

I really appreciate all the replies and will put them to use as parts of the answer. Tonight with a little luck I will try the the 51" bow mpc. I'll sure let you know how it goes!

[Kenm810]

If you want or have time check out the one I post in Patterns -Sports & Recreation (http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?17363-Sports-amp-Recreation&highlight=tournament)

[gman]

Using the "about a 51" bow mpc" I find that I am having a shifting problem in that with each lengthwise pass the turn is about 1/8" further down than last pass. Also, am getting frequent prompts of "possible board removal", "check board sensor", which I can't overcome. I cleaned the sensor under the Z truck and followed up with the calibration checklist where-in you should get at least a 90 with a board loaded and 0-10 with no board under the sensor. All checked out there. I am loading a board that is 59" long, 2.5" wide, and 1" thick. (the designer set up describes the board as 52" long, 2.5" wide and 1" thick.) When prompted with "3.5" width required, auto-jig?" I hit "enter" as the option. The traction belts are brand new. Any help??

[Kenm810]

gman,

I do all my narrow carvings on Sleds or Carrier Boards that have at least 4" of stock
beyond each end of my carving pattern, also no matter what the length of sled I use,
it's never narrower than 6" or wider if needed.
Some of my carving stock is only 1" or 2" wide and sometimes 6" to 48" long or more,
and can't be done with out some type of Sled to carry the project through the machine and keep it tracking straight.

[liquidguitars]

I do all my narrow carvings on Sleds or Carrier Boards that have at least 4" of stock


This seems to elude all that come after like smoke drifting into a large cauldron of despair.

[gman]

Maybe knitting would be a better passtime for me. But I feel so close to a good run on this project. My designer piece is 52" long and 2.5 wide. My actual board is 61.25 long by 4.6 wide. During the measuring process upon starting the project, when it runs the board to the left or back of the machine I get a message of possible board removal as it comes out from under the front roller. Any help? or just let me know your sweater size.

[TerryT]

Probably front roller stuck. Use the keypad to check. Move the roller with your hand to compress and release. I usually just tap it up with my hand to clear it when it sticks.

[bjbethke]

Maybe knitting would be a better passtime for me. But I feel so close to a good run on this project. My designer piece is 52" long and 2.5 wide. My actual board is 61.25 long by 4.6 wide. During the measuring process upon starting the project, when it runs the board to the left or back of the machine I get a message of possible board removal as it comes out from under the front roller. Any help? or just let me know your sweater size.

You most likely have a compressed rear roller; you need to clean the roller switch.

[liquidguitars]

I have a system that will work every time. the reason it not working is that you could be reading bad advice from non sled users compounded by common errors based on erroneous information about sled work. Ken is right on.

1. your total size in x is 52"? go into designer and make a project board 10" longer and make the y size 5.5" - 62" x5.5 "
2. place your bow pattern on your project board and center it. select the bow and hit "outline" now you will have a cut path, select the bow and hide it. select the path and assign the 1/16" carving bit and make the depth .032" next on the pattern board place a box thats 54" x 3" center the box and assign the 1/16" bit to that then save the project as sledmaker.mpc


now lets build the sled.

3. cut a piece of 3/4 plywood thats 63" x 5.75" x 3/4" then run the sledmaker.mpc in the carvewrigt using the following: stay under rollers? no " keep the same" yes, and use "place on corner" "cut to size" no, the CW will exactly place the bow's outline and locate the 4" end blocks automatically.

4. Add the top wood to fill in the spaces to the marks made by the CW .
5. insert your wood blank in the opening and screw it down, place the board in the CW so the outfeed roller clamps down on the end, do not the center the sled, run the project using the keypad option above. it will mirror the sled layout every time.

It should look like this when finished:

http://liquidguitars.com/assets/images/FenderNeck.jpg
http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?14648-Make-a-sled-with-Designer.&highlight=sled

[gman]

Using Kenm810's "About a 51-inchBow.mpc" could it be changed to create a 72" bow? If so how? I'm not designer savvy as it pertains to making or changing patterns so help would be great.