Newbie Please Help. jewelry Box Lid.

[kculm]

Hi all, I bought my CW about 2 Yraes ago, I made a few things then put it in to storage. Well I got the Bug once more and need help. I am not at all someone you would call a wood worker so please talk slow. http://forum.carvewright.com/images/icons/icon7.png

I am trying to recreate a jewelry box lid. It has a Vertical dome shape with the front and back edges rounded. It is 7.5 X 5.5 and is 1" thick at the center.

I know how to get the dome shape but I do not know how to get the two edges rounded to blend in with the dome. also so the the lid comes out to the size I need what size board should I use. Thanks you

[gwhiz]

Do you have a picture of the lid that you're trying to recreate?

[jpaluck]

Hey keith

Long time..wondered what happened to you...throw a your mpc or pic is the best suggestion. How did the business end up going with your brother I bleive..been a while.

[kculm]

You have a good memory, Business did not go to well, my brother got sick. I moved to West Plam and got a new house. I am trying to get my Brother motivated and give him somthing to do.

As far a pic, I dont have one. I did how ever make a new lid design, but when I went to cave it, it shronk down to 1/4 the sive. I have no cule what the hell I am doing. I can carve plaques with no problems. I think I am better off sticking with computers.

If some one could please take a look at the attched file and tell me what I am doing wrong, Also the wood I have one hand is 10" X 7.5" X 7/8

[bjbethke]

Hi all, I bought my CW about 2 Yraes ago, I made a few things then put it in to storage. Well I got the Bug once more and need help. I am not at all someone you would call a wood worker so please talk slow. http://forum.carvewright.com/images/icons/icon7.png

I am trying to recreate a jewelry box lid. It has a Vertical dome shape with the front and back edges rounded. It is 7.5 X 5.5 and is 1" thick at the center.

I know how to get the dome shape but I do not know how to get the two edges rounded to blend in with the dome. also so the the lid comes out to the size I need what size board should I use. Thanks you

Not sure if this is what you wanted, it looked like you were trying to merge too many domes together I changed your domes so they did not over lap and changed the height on the angel to give it a better resolution.

[want2b]

My guess is the machine asked you to " Scale to size" since your wood is 10" and your board setting is 9". Board has to be physically 7" longer than
your mpc to stay under the rollers. Possibly you can 'splice' on a 3.5"on both ends to allow for the needed lenghth.
Rick H.

[DickB]

Hi all, I bought my CW about 2 Yraes ago, I made a few things then put it in to storage. Well I got the Bug once more and need help. I am not at all someone you would call a wood worker so please talk slow. http://forum.carvewright.com/images/icons/icon7.png

I am trying to recreate a jewelry box lid. It has a Vertical dome shape with the front and back edges rounded. It is 7.5 X 5.5 and is 1" thick at the center.

I know how to get the dome shape but I do not know how to get the two edges rounded to blend in with the dome. also so the the lid comes out to the size I need what size board should I use. Thanks you
Back to your original questions, there is a free program called Gradient Designer that could be used for this, if I understand your request correctly. The program can be found here: http://www.wolfiesden.com/downloads/utilities.asp
I'm not the first to find or use it.

41260

With the program, you draw a profile of the box lid, select linear, and press Build then Save. Save as a .bmp file, then import the image to Designer. Save as a pattern. Stretch the pattern to the size that you want - in this case, I set the grid to the .5" default and selected snap to grid. Make the pattern depth the maximum carve depth of .75, and increase the height so that the top of the dome reads 0.000" (lower left of Designer) when you hover the cursor over the lid center. Since you want a 1" thick finished piece, the bottom 1/4" will be cut straight. Hopefully this will be suitable.

41261

As to board size, you need to use an oversize board on both the ends and sides (top and bottom) of your piece. The ends should be an additional 3.5" minimum so that the board stays under the rollers. Because the project carves most of the surface of the board away, you need to add adding material on the top and bottom of the piece so that the rollers have something to grip as the carved area moves under the roller. I suggest a inch top and bottom. You could use a sled to minimize waste, but as you call yourself a newbie I wouldn't go there right now.

Note that I have set the project up on an oversize board. When you run this project, use a board that is at least 14.5" x 7.5". Bigger is OK, and in fact slightly bigger is recommended so that you do not get any scaling prompt. Answer "no" to stay under the rollers; but don't fret, the project is laid out such that it will stay under the rollers. Answer "Place on corner" to minimize waste or Center is OK too.

41259

[Kenm810]

Nice Idea,

That could result in several New Lid Possibilities and Patterns,
Maybe even a Pillow Topped Lid as a starting shape

[kculm]

Not sure if this is what you wanted, it looked like you were trying to merge too many domes together I changed your domes so they did not over lap and changed the height on the angel to give it a better resolution.

Thank you.

[cestout]

The problems with using a flat board for a lid are deforming over time and end grain.The first problem can be mitigated by using glue-ups. Any large flat project, signs included should be done this way. The arched grain wants to flatten, so flip the grain for each piece of the glue up. The second can not be mitigated. To properly make a box, it should be constructed closed and sanded that way. Then cut the top loose. You will have a perfect match top to bottom and it will not deform. If you cut rabbits in the sides of the box the same depth as the top you carve, you can insert that in the box as you assemble it and the end grain will be hidden. Sand the top edges of the sides to match the contour of the inserted top. See my "A More Elegant Box" in the projects section of the pattern store. Sounds complicated, but it really is not that hard to do, and the results are impressive.
Clint