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View Full Version : Any luthiers own a CW?



DP
12-28-2006, 04:29 PM
Any guitar builders figured out how to use the CW in guitar construction? Specifically;
1. Can you use a CW to rout pockets for fingerboard inlay? It appears that the smallest bit that is available is .062". Anyone experimented with 1/8" shank bits so we can use the smaller bits commonly used in Dremel tools? (Any Yes, I did read that bits other than those sold by CW are not supported)
2. It appears that a CW w/ the optional scanner would make it possible to duplicate bridges for acoustic guitars, anyone tried it?
3. How about using the CW to cut the fingerboard radius or maybe compound radius boards.
4. How about cutting Mother of Pearl and Abalone for inlays?

The CarveWright looks like a perfect addition to every luthier's shop but I'm curious if anyone else has figured out how to do the specific jobs I've mentioned.

Thanks in advance for anyone's input!

Dave

Shawn Gillies
12-28-2006, 07:26 PM
edited

liquidguitars
12-29-2006, 11:47 PM
I was sold once I downloaded and instaled the demo software... wow!

Kammo1
01-02-2007, 12:58 PM
Greetings from the UK I have recently found out about this machine and unfortunately they don't ship to the UK :cry: I too make and build guitars and this machine would be a very useful addition to me. How does it rate doing a guitar body?? will it carve say the top of a guitar ie Les Paul ? would love to hear from fellow luthiers who actually use this in their shop. :D

DP
01-02-2007, 06:18 PM
Liquid Guitar

I checked out your website. WOW!!!! You've made some beautiful instruments and your site is one of the best I've seen. Congratulations!

Have you purchased a CW? With your background I suspect that you'll have no problem getting the most out of the CW software. Have you figured out how to do inlay? How about using it to carve things like a bridge for an acoustic guitar or a carved top plate?

DP

omobono02
01-02-2007, 10:33 PM
This machine looks like it could do rough archings for violin and viola quite easily. Any photos around or makers in the Boston/Maine area currently using this?


I am especially interested in hearing from anyone who has used the scanner for any violin related projects

liquidguitars
01-02-2007, 11:33 PM
Liquid Guitar

I checked out your website. WOW!!!! You've made some beautiful instruments and your site is one of the best I've seen. Congratulations!

Have you purchased a CW?

Thanks so much!
No Carvewright as of yet, but I am playing and getting some good shapes. Blown away over what to carve.

David M.
01-03-2007, 11:33 AM
I am an amiture luthier, only 10 insturments under my belt so far, 2 more under construction, a new Dreadnot guitar and I'm rebuilding a 1946 Kay, 3/4, Stand up Bass.

As far as your list goes, I believe it would be a great way to create or recreate bridges as you said, that's the same thing I thought when some of the samples hit the forum.

Pockets for inlay I am very much interested in but have not tested yet. The normal carving bit is likely NOT going to work, both sizewise and because it is tapored, no square pocket sides. I'm going to test some smaller bits here shortly on my own logo, I'll let you know how it works.
The pearl itself might be cutable sandwiched between wood, plastic, cardboard?...something, then mounted into a shuttle board. I've been keeping this in mind as I do my other projects and have worked up some ideas but haven't been able to test those yet either. Basic chuncky shapes should be doable, complicated FINE text and lines maybe not, I think that depends on how secure you can make it going throught the machine I think rosette work and the bulk of what you have in mind likely doable, but still needs to be worked out.

Fret board radiusing hadn't crossed my mind yet, great idea. The machine would do this just fine, the software would be the only issue but once you found your radius you like you'd be good to go.

I also would like to see about it rough cutting my guitar neck blanks to shape, truss rod slots. There is some one working on electric guitar bodies
I've seen reciently. Look around the forum.

Greybeard
01-03-2007, 02:03 PM
Inlay work.
If only a tapered cutting bit is available, can I suggest that if you use the same bit to cut the mop (if that's possible) but cut it upside down, then it will drop in perfectly, and make a tight fit.
I leave you do the maths for the size. :wink:

John

BobHill
01-03-2007, 04:09 PM
The main problem with smaller than 1/8" bits is mainly the speed of the head travel and depth of the bit putting too much torque onto the shaft and constantly breaking your bit. As long as your bit doesn't fly around if it breaks and hurts somehitn on the machine, you can always try other bits to see how it'll work for you. But, the machine isn't smart enough to know the difference between the carving bit and the cutting bit, if you assign th straight 1/8 bit to do your cutting (in raster) if that's all you have it do. Break down your design into more than one part, and have the cutting edge where you need a 90° cut made and have the straight bit installed, even though that may be a raster. If possible, however, make the outline cut in vector and perhaps inside in raster using proper bits and you'll have the best of both worlds.

Bob Hill
Tampa Florida

liquidguitars
01-04-2007, 12:30 PM
Here is a rendering of a guitar brige out of designer "not to scale" that I would like to make.

setup includes depth map, drillouts with counter set and carving.
How do you think would one go about the steps making this part on the CW?

BobHill
01-04-2007, 12:34 PM
Liquidguitars,

I see no reason that the bridge you designed should not carve perfectly as you made it in the CarveWright. If you'd like to put the design into downloadable mpc to real size, I can make it in wood and let you know, as, of course, anyone else could as well that has a CarveWright.

Bob

liquidguitars
01-04-2007, 01:22 PM
Hi Bob,
Getting you to make a sample is really cool idea. I have seen some very nice carvings in the gallery. At the best settings, cutting in Ebony, is their tons of cleanup?

liquidguitars
01-04-2007, 02:38 PM
The main problem with smaller than 1/8" bits is mainly the speed of the head travel and depth of the bit putting too much torque onto the shaft and constantly breaking your bit.

ah I see,

I changed the bit in designer to 1/8 and the carving looks ok.

pkunk
01-04-2007, 02:51 PM
Hi Bob,
Getting you to make a sample is really cool idea. I have seen some very nice carvings in the gallery. At the best settings, cutting in Ebony, is their tons of cleanup?
I'll step in and answer you. No, the cleanup on something that small is just a quick vacuum and maybe a few blasts from an air gun. I then wipe my bit sensor and mirror and start the next project.

liquidguitars
01-04-2007, 11:22 PM
quick vacuum and maybe a few blasts from an air gun
Very cool..

dmn1003
05-10-2007, 01:17 AM
Hello: Is there any advantage to purchase the Carve Wright or The Sears Machine? Service or Quality isssues

Sarge
05-10-2007, 08:43 AM
As far as quality, I believe they are the exact same machine, made in China. Service is currently done by LHR technicians on both machines. I understand SEARS is eventually going to have their techs trained to work on the "Craftsman" brand machine.

The possibility of getting a Carvewright brand machine is pretty slim. They have been out of stock every time I've checked their site. http://www.carvewright.com/pricing.html