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Jeff_Birt
12-28-2006, 04:08 PM
As I've been using Deigner for several weeks now I've discoverd that while it is generally great I wish it had another feature or two. I thought it maight be nice to create a which list where feature requests could be compiled. As others add requests I'll try to keep it all compiled into one list ( EDIT: eventually removing the posts for the original requests after they are added to the list, if no one objects). I'll start out with a feature that I think would be really nice.

Edit - 5-28-2007: In order to reduce the size of this list and making it easier to read over I have divided things up into groups and make teh descriptions simpler. If more than one person requested a certain feature a vote tally is shown. Light blue items have been addressed.








Designer software:
1 ) It would be nice to have a mirrored object behave as one object when the two halves are joined (as do two seperate objects). This would allow you to create half of a symetric piece, mirror it, and still be able to use the carve region and cut out tools.
2 ) Being able to apply transofrms to a group of objects as though they were one object, i.e. rotate a group of objects around groups center. Also the ability to allow copying objects from project to project without the constraints (attachments), including centering, being carried with it. Currently, something that has been centered on one board size will not be centerd when pasted onto a diffrent board size.
3 ) Bug fix: As noted in #3 Designer lets you create geometry on the part's side and will even render something that looks good on the screen. The machine will not cut it though. EDIT: This seems like it may have been an issue with the older downloadable trial vesion of Designer, as of Version 1.115 you cannot create geometry on the side of the part.
4 ) Improve toolpath verification as sometimes you can design something and it looks good in Designer but it won't carve like it looks.
5) The ability to lower the depth of centerline text would be usefull, especially within a carving region. It currently forces the centerline text to be at the top surface of the board, even if you have lowered that top surface with a carving region.
6 ) I hope to see the text tool improve at the most. It would be great to flow a text line in a wave path or circle(s), and to have Superscript and subscript fonts, and the ability to underline text in the text.
7 ) The ability to import files types such as stl, iges, dxf, G-code, etc. files. (5)
8 ) It would be nice to get an estimated time per feature, so that one can see what features are taking the most time to carve and get estimated vutting times without the need to have the memory card.
9 ) Snap to the center of a line segment, Place a line tangent to a curve or circle, Place a horizontal or vertical line by holding down the shift key, Allow concentric circles, parallel lines or curves using an offset command, Trim a line, curve, spline to a selected point or other geometry, Create multi sided polygons.
10 ) Being able to select which side (or center) of a line to rout on. This would make it much simpler to route next to another feature.
11 ) Being able to spin objects by a keyed in angle, and being able to spin drawn objects (rectangles, elipses, splines). (2)
12 ) Ruler on edge of screen, Measuring device (click at one point, drag to another point, get instantaneous measurement, then the line disappears when mouse is released), Editable absolute locations.
13 ) Ability to set feeds, speeds and depth of cut and be able to enter in custom tool profiles.
14 ) Add an option to allow oversized designs (aka over 15" wide) to be made out of one .mpc file (Tiling), and to slice carvings thicker than 1" into multiple carvings.
15 ) Add code to the Window such that when idiots like me click on the close window X instead of the close project X the software asks "Are you Sure?". Can't tell you the number of times I open and close the Designer because of this.
16 ) Have a "Window" menu item/tab to allow switchign between projects faster.
17 ) The ability to export a pattern from a project to the favorites list and/or to the windows clipboard.
18 ) Some sort of SDK to allow users to right there own extensions to Designer.
19 ) The ability to "move to back" or "move to front". Similar to how you can do it in Corel or other graphics programs. That way you could send a pattern to the front or back behind another in order to set precedance on which is cut.
20 ) The ability to import/export multiple items to from the pattern library (2).
21 ) Ability to import other textures into Designer.
22 ) Allow updatingpatterns on board with newer pattern version.
23 ) The ability to select/deselect items in teh carvin glist so that you complir (post) only those selected objects/tool paths.
24 ) Ability to read project back off of memory card
25 ) Better diminsioning, contraintes to other objects etc
26 ) Frontal lighting option
27 ) Fix problem that, when using multiple monitors, allows dialog boxes to pop up on wrong monitor.
28 ) An alternative to 'Height' allow one to set depth of cut and max height of object
29 ) Some sort of Pattern and Project manager to allow one to visualize their pattern and project library. A built in 'Preview' for the OS would be nice too.
30 ) Ability to dray profile on edge of board to be used to form a surface.


Pattern Editor software:
1 ) I would like to see in the pattern editor a way to export the scan in a gif format that would allow editing in another graphics program. It would also be nice to have a 'clone' tool and for 'Paste' to actually work.

Machine Operation:
1 ) Total Cut time remaining on LCD display, not %Done of current object.
2 ) It would also be nice to have a 1/16" straight cutting bit (not carving) for cutting out small parts in balsa sheet. An adapter and program for 1/8" shank bits would also be nice. Ron Justice is now producing bit adapters that accept smaller bits, search teh forum for rjustice.
3) Ability to skip operations in a project from the machine control panelMachine:
1 ) Better vaccum port set up


Documentation:
1 ) Label the software that ships with the machine and probe with the version #, so one needs to know whether or not an upgrade is needed.
2 ) Rewrite the manuals & the help files so they convey some meaning and useful information. Actaully add a help fiel for Pattern editor.
3) We need a maintenance manual!

Jeff_Birt
06-02-2007, 09:29 PM
Well I thought of a couple other nice to have feautures while workong on a project today.

1 ) Ability to control the order of cut-outs. If you have two cut outs nested, the outer one always cuts first, so when the inside one cuts you have a good chance of breaking the part loose.

2 ) Add a counter sinking option (with the 60 deg V-bit) to the drilling function.

Dan-Woodman
06-03-2007, 08:38 AM
Jeff
You can countersink a hole simply by placing one hole on top of another, one to drill the hole , the other with a v-bit to countersink.
This is similar to what I did in the step stool project I posted a few days ago. In that case I drilled a hole thru the board and came back on top with a 3/8" bit to counterbore for the screw head and plug.
I f your countersinking for a screw head , you may want to use a 90 deg. v-bit and play with the depth til you get a 3/8" dia. countersink

dominulus
07-10-2007, 06:53 PM
The ability to import paths from either Adobe Photoshop or Adobe Illustrator, and to be able to control the depth of cutting with the carving bit in areas designated by paths that are filled with either black or white.

OR, the ability to recognize black-and-white bitmapped files as depth-specified areas within paths.

dominulus
07-11-2007, 07:04 PM
-- quick key commands to select the pointer tool, magnifier, etc. (Or have I overlooked these?)

--automatic update (or prompt) for projects with patterns that have been modified and replaced in the library.

liquidguitars
07-12-2007, 12:30 AM
automatic update (or prompt) for projects with patterns that have been modified and replaced in the library.
yes please mongo needs.. :)

LG

Dave-Carve
07-12-2007, 08:13 AM
The abilty to see how long a carve is going to take (in the programitself) So you dont need card to find out PAIN!!!!

Hammer Head
07-17-2007, 08:00 AM
Jeff Birt is on top of the issues that alot of us are contending with. I wonder if Carve Wright ever saw this coming? R & D at its best.
I'd also like to see the software allow the user to turn elements of design on and off. Like layers in photo shop. Maybe turning groups on and off. This would allow the designer to customize with out starting from scratch. Just a thought.
Yes a service manual is a must have with drawings and part numbers.

BobHill
07-17-2007, 08:27 AM
Although I suspect that it would take future models, I'd like to see where you could dedicate a computer to the working CarveWright in order to afford more direct control over what and how things are carved .. on the spot. I've sure got a computer that could be put to that use.
Bob

flyboy1015
07-23-2007, 09:01 PM
I think the software looks great. I haven't tried the demo yet, but I'm thinking that it would be nice to be able to buy just the software so that I could create parts and then export to g-code. I would buy the software alone just for that capability.

RickC
07-24-2007, 02:24 AM
A bit of code for a skilled programmer... :) It would be nice to select an option to position the light to the curor. In this way as you move the cursor the light changes position over the work. Comes in handy when checking alignments and depths etc.. I am an artist, painter and computer graphics, I depend on more visuals than numbers but I am getting used to the number thing..

http://www.fultoncountyny.com/cgdesign/CGD_webSig.gif

Digitalwoodshop
07-26-2007, 12:46 PM
A Axillary set of relay contacts software controlled to control the dust collector.

Internal built in light feature.

AL

PhotoProf
07-28-2007, 09:20 AM
Some good and thoughtful suggestions! I would like to build on the "group" command so you could group shapes, lock them, key in a specific angle/location and then unlock or ungroup them.

Also, being able to center multiple shapes to a "master" shape rather that the center of the board.

I agree - rulers definitely! Maybe reference lines like Photoshop

BobHill
07-29-2007, 08:03 AM
Flyboy,

You might give LHR a phone call and ask them about purchasing the software. Of course, you can download the software as a limited time demo anyway, but I'm not so sure what the software can do for you in being converted to G-Code, as you don't have access to the machine workings in the software, and it's not open architecture.

Bob Hill
Tampa Florida

jspringertx
08-03-2007, 09:09 AM
Maybe the option is there and I can't find it, but it would be nice to control the size of the font. All other programs ask you for font size and you have an idea of what the finished project will look like.

pkunk
08-03-2007, 09:21 AM
Maybe the option is there and I can't find it, but it would be nice to control the size of the font. All other programs ask you for font size and you have an idea of what the finished project will look like.
When you put your chosen font/text on the board, stretch it from a corner to whatever size you want. What could be easier?

BobHill
08-03-2007, 09:29 AM
You have all the size manipulation of a font you really need ... AND ... the text is always fully editable. In the original text options you can choose any of your installed fonts; apply Left, Center, Right Justification; make the text Bold or Italic and choose either Raster, Outline, or Centerline (limited to those who have this ability). You can establish character spacing and even an arc to it in degrees.

Once you have established your "druthers" here and applied the text to your project, you can then Select it and establish it's physical size by pulling/pushing on any of the red dot bounding box handles. You can warp (but not skew) the text in any direction by grabbing any of the bounding box "middle" yellow dots and pushing/pulling it. Or, you can create the text size by re-establishing it's dimensions (of the text bounding box) digitally in the size boxes as you can for any object.

To edit, just be sure the text is selected (any time, even after the project has been saved as a mpc ... or even created by someone else) and RIGHT click (on a PC) and from the options choose, EDIT.

What more might one need?

Bob

Remember that raster text can also be editable. Both Outline and Center cut are vector cuts and always also editable.

jspringertx
08-03-2007, 09:46 AM
When you put your chosen font/text on the board, stretch it from a corner to whatever size you want. What could be easier?

It is difficult to know just what size the final font will be. Yes, I do drag the size down, but wouldn't it be easier to specify the font size before posting the photo. Almost all windows programs allow you to specify the font size.

Dragging sometimes distorts the font.

jspringertx
08-03-2007, 09:51 AM
You have all the size manipulation of a font you really need ... AND ... the text is always fully editable. In the original text options you can choose any of your installed fonts; apply Left, Center, Right Justification; make the text Bold or Italic and choose either Raster, Outline, or Centerline (limited to those who have this ability). You can establish character spacing and even an arc to it in degrees.

Once you have established your "druthers" here and applied the text to your project, you can then Select it and establish it's physical size by pulling/pushing on any of the red dot bounding box handles. You can warp (but not skew) the text in any direction by grabbing any of the bounding box "middle" yellow dots and pushing/pulling it. Or, you can create the text size by re-establishing it's dimensions (of the text bounding box) digitally in the size boxes as you can for any object.

To edit, just be sure the text is selected (any time, even after the project has been saved as a mpc ... or even created by someone else) and RIGHT click (on a PC) and from the options choose, EDIT.

What more might one need?

Bob

Remember that raster text can also be editable. Both Outline and Center cut are vector cuts and always also editable.

Yes, I know the font can be manipulated after you produce the text. I use Corel, Word, Photoshop, Publisher and a few other programs that allow me to specify the font size when I create the document. You always face the danger of skewing the font once you start dragging the little dots.

It was just a suggestion...

BobHill
08-03-2007, 09:54 AM
I can tell you are comfortable with computer font sizing and as such it's explainable as a want. But since 72points = 1 inch (sort of, and depending upon the font maker and style) it's really not all that practical for physical determination for carving, where you normally are thinking in inches, rather than points. Inches and the fact that the text (or even sets of letters) are always within a bounding box makes the Designer way best, as you can either do it by sight, or by size dimensions of the bounding box, not point size as you do on a computer.

Bob

jspringertx
08-03-2007, 09:58 AM
I have a ruler that specifies the font size in points and I am familiar with the difference. It is no big deal and I can live with the program as it is. Just an "addition to the wish list".

Jeff has done an outstanding job starting this thread and I have learned much from it.

benluz
08-04-2007, 10:38 PM
It will be interesting to see the pro version of designer and after looking and using many CNC programs ,Designer is still the easiest to create a simple sign in combing text and a vectorart model.I look forward to being able to import and export g-code,I hope they include post processors for the g-coder or an customizable post processors that can made for a paticular cnc.I'm really looking forward to the carvewright II,where the designers can bring all that they have learned to bare on the next generation of machines and make at least say a semi-professional or pro version machine with total contols over carving ,but yet the ability to leave on auto pilot if so desired and with all that in mind, a machine that is made for higher produuction would be nice as well .I can see the Carvewright II being a hybrid 1/2 cnc and 1/2 Carvewright, still maintainng the ability to create tool paths from grayscale models,but also converting that into true cnc X,Y,Z coordinates.This machine will cost more ,but manufactured and programmed as I know LHR can do, it will be well worth the added cost.In order to keep as many novice machinest buying the machine, it may be necessary to keep an improved Carvewright I available and at the lowest possibe entry level price, and make the exciting world of CNC available to every small shop and woodworker out there.Keep up the good work !
Ben

Wesley
08-06-2007, 10:28 AM
Found myself working around this little problem while working with a sled...

It would be handy to edit the tabs height when working on a cut out, so you can safely cut out a part from a stacked work piece.

I hope i didnt miss this somewhere.
Wes

BobHill
08-11-2007, 12:17 PM
While on the thread about the Probe and editing the pattern the probe's scan, it occurs to me that that same Pattern Editor used for the Probe should be made available to do some Pattern rendering and editing that already exist within Designer. That should be an easy one to allow without a lot of programing.

Bob

Addendum: It's been pointed out that this option already exists for those that have the Probe and it's Pattern editor active. You just have to close the Probe option when opening the editor and you have access to FILE, OPEN and browse to any pattern that you have saved on your system or within Designer (export it from Designer). I just didn't get beyond the Download Scan Window. But if you do not have the Flash Card in its Dongle, you can just go directly to FILE, OPEN.

RanUtah
08-17-2007, 04:56 AM
Along with the improved maintance manual, they could add what possible errors there are, what they mean and the possible fixes.

Maybe Carvewright could make their own downdraft table for sale.

T-Shirts and hats maybe?

dominulus
08-19-2007, 01:06 PM
It would be most helpful to have a board-measurement override, where the user could simply jog to a spot, place the bit tip on the board and have it carve from that spot.

benluz
08-19-2007, 04:30 PM
[QUOTE=dominulus;29968]It would be most helpful to have a board-measurement override, where the user could simply jog to a spot, place the bit tip on the board and have it carve from that spot.[/QUOTE


I agree, this would be a very helpful feature !
Ben

Gman_Ind
08-21-2007, 09:48 PM
I would like to be able to draw a 2d profile, like for a crown mold, then have the profile swept for a specified distance. A profile rotated would make nice moldings and rosettes.

BobHill
08-22-2007, 10:51 AM
That would be a good one too, Mike, although 3D from CAD type programs would really work for crown moldings as well as other purposes.

Bob

benluz
08-23-2007, 08:21 PM
It would be nice for the pattern editor and designer to be able to export in STL,DFX format ,so other machines could use the patterns.
Thanks,
Ben

BobHill
08-23-2007, 09:02 PM
One of these days ... maybe!
Bob

RanUtah
08-24-2007, 06:38 AM
I think it would be pretty cool to have local or reginal seminars. Maybe LHR could even pay some of you seasoned pros to conduct them with having some factory reps there as well. I know I would love to go to one even if it was on a national scale. You guys are helping CW to become a better company just with your input and great ideas.

neeboy74
08-30-2007, 06:35 PM
Dude, the software is CRAP. You can't easily draw up and down/left-right without turning on the grid, and you can't draw any more precise than 1/8".

Trust me on this; I've been using AutoCAD for over 10 years and the Carvewright drawing software is for kiddies. You're better off exploring the small CNC machines available on eBay; some of them come with actual professional-grade (but still very easy to learn/use) drawing software that won't handcuff you with Draconian limitations like you'll get with the Carvewright program.

dominulus
08-30-2007, 07:55 PM
neeboy,

The software is actually quite remarkable, and I sense that future versions of it will improve dramatically. Yes, it has nowhere near the capabilities of CAD or other vector software programs, but there are ways to bring those very vectors into the program.

To make this machine sing, you must exercise patience, determination, curiosity and tolerance for a steep learning curve.

Think of it as a musical instrument, providing you with rewards for sticking with it -- and many opportunities for personal growth.

As my Italian brick-laying father-in-law says: "It ain't easy."

dom

swhitney
09-01-2007, 09:17 AM
...To make this machine sing, you must exercise patience, determination, curiosity and tolerance for a steep learning curve.

Think of it as a musical instrument, providing you with rewards for sticking with it -- and many opportunities for personal growth....

Amen to that!! While there is much we wish it could do, remember what marvelous things it can do!!!

TerryT
09-01-2007, 09:23 AM
This may have been mentioned before, infact it may already be there and I just haven't found it.

Twisting my head sideways to design something that runs the length of the board is a pain in the neck! LOL

We have the Front and Rear View, how about one to stand the board on end for designing patterns that go with the length rather than the width?

roscoe jackson
09-12-2007, 11:50 AM
I just got off the phone with CW customer support. I was asking them why I couldn't find the "copy offset" tool even though it's explained in detail in the help file that comes with the software. Apparently the software doesn't contain that function anymore. Lame.

I've had my machine for a couple of months and it's finally working right (knock on wood) after I installed a new Z-axis motor and shipped it to Texas for a board sensor. I love it despite the hardware difficulties. I'm a product designer and I understand that early adopters are often part of the R&D process. The CarveWright is a great machine at a fantastic price. In my opinion it's the beginning of the desktop manufacturing revolution that I've been dreaming about since I started playing with Legos.

My biggest frustration is the software. I've been using all kinds of 3D CAD software since the late 1990's and my expectations for the CarveWright software were probably pretty high. I'm disappointed. It's slow, counterintuitive, and it's functional bias toward users who make primarily artistic carvings seriously limits the system's appeal.

Here's what I want:
1. the ability to import 2D data in .dxf and .ai formats (maybe some kind of Google Sketchup format too http://sketchup.google.com/)
2. the ability to scale/rotate/etc. the above data in the CarveWright software
3. the ability to assign operations to imported data (i.e. convert an imported point to a drill hole
4. GIVE ME THE COPY OFFSET FUNCTION. Please. I'll be in the AARP before I get finished manually laying out the 28 holes I need to drill in the project I'm working on today.

By the way, what's the deal with the advanced software? I guess it's part of the CarveWright business plan to add another revenue stream by selling the advanced version. I already own thousands of dollars worth of design software, though, and I don't have room in the budget for a advanced version of software that gives me a headache to use. Let me import CAD data from software that I've already invested in.

I would consider buying the advanced software if it allowed me to import and manipulate 3D geometry.

Billions
09-16-2007, 04:10 AM
Some excellent points, Roscoe. I would love to see some .ai support, it's my primary program for designing and that would be amazing.

Norm
09-25-2007, 04:55 PM
Start with a board 12" wide X 12" X 3/4" deep. Place an arc on the lower left hand corner of a rectangular board. You make a cut path and remove the corner. Remove the corner with the "Cut Path" tool. Now you wish to route the edge of the arc with the same bit (say 1/2 inch roundover) as used on the straight edges.

If you do so it will leave a lip on the arc. The same thing happens when you cut a slot or circle in the middle or edge of the board.

It would seem a simple software "fix" to allow the arc route to follow the cut path so that a lip would not remain.

Norm

jwhllh55
10-28-2007, 05:02 PM
I wish there was a way to download a design from the memory card to the computer. There has been times where I have forgotten to save a design and just uploaded it to the memory card and taken it to the machine to carve. When I come back to the computer, someone has closed the program and I have lost the information of the design. However, the design is still in the memory card and if there was a way to download it from the memory card, it would be helpful...
Any Commits, or ideas on how to do this?
Thanks,
John Hammett

Norm
10-28-2007, 05:08 PM
I do not want to seem unkind, but why not save the design before you leave the room where the computer is located.

Norm


I wish there was a way to download a design from the memory card to the computer. There has been times where I have forgotten to save a design and just uploaded it to the memory card and taken it to the machine to carve. When I come back to the computer, someone has closed the program and I have lost the information of the design. However, the design is still in the memory card and if there was a way to download it from the memory card, it would be helpful...
Any Commits, or ideas on how to do this?
Thanks,
John Hammett

jlitz
10-28-2007, 05:38 PM
I wish there was a way to download a design from the memory card to the computer. There has been times where I have forgotten to save a design and just uploaded it to the memory card and taken it to the machine to carve. When I come back to the computer, someone has closed the program and I have lost the information of the design. However, the design is still in the memory card and if there was a way to download it from the memory card, it would be helpful...
Any Commits, or ideas on how to do this?
Thanks,
John Hammett

Projects on the memory card are saved in a dramatically different format. Some information can be translated back into an .mpc, but most of the valuable information is either not present or can't be converted back.

For example, the depth data stored on the card for patterns and carved regions includes the feathered edges. And, the depth data has been modified by the "height" parameter and the bit optimization setting. Thus, recovering the exact original pattern data would be very difficult, if not impossible in most cases.

Font carving is a similar problem. Recovering the font type, size, kerning, other attributes, as well as the text itself is highly problematic (none of this data is on the memory card).

Even simple vector data is stored different compared to the .mpc files. The card data for a line from point A to point B contains not only point A & B, but several interpolated points in between.

Norm
10-28-2007, 07:20 PM
I'll try one more time. Save the design before you leave the room where the computer is located.

Norm


Projects on the memory card are saved in a dramatically different format. Some information can be translated back into an .mpc, but most of the valuable information is either not present or can't be converted back.

For example, the depth data stored on the card for patterns and carved regions includes the feathered edges. And, the depth data has been modified by the "height" parameter and the bit optimization setting. Thus, recovering the exact original pattern data would be very difficult, if not impossible in most cases.

Font carving is a similar problem. Recovering the font type, size, kerning, other attributes, as well as the text itself is highly problematic (none of this data is on the memory card).

Even simple vector data is stored different compared to the .mpc files. The card data for a line from point A to point B contains not only point A & B, but several interpolated points in between.

jwhllh55
10-28-2007, 07:59 PM
Projects on the memory card are saved in a dramatically different format. Some information can be translated back into an .mpc, but most of the valuable information is either not present or can't be converted back.

For example, the depth data stored on the card for patterns and carved regions includes the feathered edges. And, the depth data has been modified by the "height" parameter and the bit optimization setting. Thus, recovering the exact original pattern data would be very difficult, if not impossible in most cases.

Font carving is a similar problem. Recovering the font type, size, kerning, other attributes, as well as the text itself is highly problematic (none of this data is on the memory card).

Even simple vector data is stored different compared to the .mpc files. The card data for a line from point A to point B contains not only point A & B, but several interpolated points in between.

That makes very good sense and is the answer I was looking for. However, sometimes, as a wish list, I really think if the software designers and writers would think outside the box, it would be possible. I have written a lot of software and I would think my wish wouldn't be that big of a thing.
Thanks for the update..
John

Digitalwoodshop
10-29-2007, 09:47 AM
I believe the basic TV Screen is made up of 512 scan lines. So if you freeze and image on a TV Screen each line would be like a colored straw, 512 of them, laying on it's side making up the big picture. So very much like the carve machine, it compiles the MPC into what I would call scan lines. As you watch the Carve Machine, it acts like it is printing a TV Screen building the image one line at a time. I am talking about a carving only not Centerline Text. Centerline Text plays by a different set of rules.

So what happens when the project is compiled is it creates all the instructions for each line of the project or for each step of the X the Y travels back and forth and the Z goes up and down creating the image one line at a time, slightly deeper as you go.

SO the software to convert all that line data back to a MPC would be very complicated and expensive.

AL

From the PM's I got there are a bunch of guys out here that know a whole lot more about the card data than me.... Thanks AL

TIMCOSBY
11-18-2007, 01:43 AM
a command to mirror all selected objects to the back of board and put them in the right place for double sided projects.

jwhllh55
11-18-2007, 02:47 AM
If there was one thing I wish for is a easy software package one could buy to use wiith CCW and have first class 3D cravings without spending hundreds of dollar for PTN files. VectorArts3D really does a good job, but everything I want cost way to much...
Any suggestions?

scw
11-22-2007, 06:54 AM
I hope one day to see a function in the software that allows you to restart a project from the previous point it had stopped.
i.e. if you get some sort of error while running a project and have to reboot, it would be great if you could start right back up from where the error occured instead of starting completely over.

Jeff_Birt
11-22-2007, 09:30 AM
You can already finish a partially completed piece, it just take a few extra steps to do so. I'll go through the process briefly, more in depth information can be found with a 'Search' of the forum.

Let's say your project stopped about 50% through. Go back to your computer, pull up the project in Designer. Create a rectangle that completely covers the area already carved (leave it about 1/2" short of where it quit carving). Make the rectangle a carve region with a depth of 0.00". The has the effect of 'filling in' the area already carved in Designer. Save this project with a new name and upload it to the card.

When you go back to the machine you may have to mask over the already carved area of the board with painters tape and/or craft paper so the board sensor won't be fooled by the already carved area. Start up your modified project. The cutting head will park at the front of the machine until it get past the area that you filled in (it looks like its stuck but it is OK). Then it will start carving again.

dougsnash
12-03-2007, 08:50 AM
Currently, we are limited to a max 3/4" cut depth using the carving bit. It would be great if the software were capable of making multiple passes over a carve area so that the 3/4 inch maximum cut depth were not exceeded but we could then go as deep as 1.5 inches in two passes or 2.25 in three.

Doug
Newbie in NW Ontario, Canada

Jeff_Birt
12-03-2007, 08:59 AM
There is also the problem of other parts of the spindle/z axis contacting the work piece with depths exceeding the cutting length of the tool. Writing software to prevent such collisions is not trivial, nor is understanding the limitations of project design to prevent collisions.

TurkeyBranch
12-03-2007, 09:29 AM
I would like to see a better Dust collection port installed. I know it is a difficult task with all the moving parts, but maybe they could use 3 to 4 different 1 1/4" inch ports around the machine then they would all tie into an adapter that hooks to a 4" dust collector.

Think it is possible? I have seen a few places on the machine I want to drill and modify for this, but will not do it until out of warranty

Ed

TurkeyBranch
12-09-2007, 11:01 AM
I would really like to see the software allow you to make objects wider than 14.5" in designer, then have split them. This way if you wanted a 36"x72" sign it would carve 3 boards and you just glue it up.

Ed

BobHill
12-09-2007, 11:15 AM
Ed,

??? You just described how you now CAN make a sign wider than 14.5". The trick is to design the full sized sign in something like CorelDraw and be sure the parts are no wider than the CW can accept. The use something a biscuit joiner to assist in placement and gluing.

Bob

Kenm810
12-09-2007, 11:26 AM
Been there, done that, so have a few other folks on the forum.
It works well and you can find posts and threads about the process on the forum. http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif
With photos and comments.

cabnet636
12-09-2007, 06:24 PM
i want to use designer to design then up load to g code for use with and cam/ cad/controller program

the software on the market is no where as user friendly as carvewright designer and i pray they don't wait too long!!
cabnet

benluz
12-09-2007, 07:07 PM
Hello cabnet...I keep running into you...lol, they would not even need to go as far as creating a post processor for each machine if they could just make it where it would export in as a"stl" format which most cad/cam programs will allow you to import.the other software is more powerful ,but for creating a simple to somewhat complex ,it's hard to beat the ease of use of designer.It's funny everyone who started with a carvewright then purchased a full size cnc is looking for the same thing a program like designer but designed for a cnc. Vectric is one of the most easiest ,yet they failed to combine the importation of vectorart3d and their v-carving into one program,as it stands you do your relief carving in one program then import into V-carve for the Text.I even contacted Vectric ,but made little impact.
Ben

HighTechOkie
12-09-2007, 07:39 PM
It would be nice to enter a decimal of an angle (i.e. 22.5).
It would also be nice to enter dimensions as a fraction or decimal.
I'd also like to change the colors used for dimensions and constraints.

Just a few things I have come across.

mtylerfl
12-09-2007, 07:55 PM
...
It would also be nice to enter dimensions as a fraction or decimal.
...

Just a few things I have come across.

Hello,

Actually, you already can enter dimensions of objects as fractions or decimals.

HighTechOkie
12-09-2007, 08:26 PM
Thanks Michael, I should have added "..and display in fractions." Sometimes its easier to do the math in fractions and if the dimension label was shown in fractions. Not a big deal, just easier than remembering the numerical conversions for each fraction.

cabnet636
12-09-2007, 09:22 PM
yea i am begining to realize whats going on with the software

i am sure some writer will pick up on this and move these guys to the side

i am avoiding the inevitable

see you in cnczone

cabnet

Bubbabear
12-14-2007, 02:52 PM
I would love a much bigger memory card or heck some kind of setup where we could use USB drives. And still want to know what the unused port on the outfeed side is for

TCboy
12-14-2007, 02:55 PM
the port is specifically for calibration at the factory or so they say.....

HighTechOkie
12-16-2007, 04:12 PM
This one is related to inlay work. I'd like to take a photo of a board and use that photo as the background for laying out pieces according to the grain of that board. Not enough detail when converting to a background that Designer can recognize currently.

TIMCOSBY
12-22-2007, 04:10 AM
delete projects from the card at the machine. carve a little...delete... then scan some.

hotpop
12-27-2007, 09:13 PM
I’ve been reading this “Wish List” for several months. I doubt that we will ever see many new features added to the software. Just think about it. You get an engineered sophisticated machine for less then 2K and they give you the software that makes it work. LHR is in the business of mass marketing affordable 3D carving machines for the hobbyist.

Any industrial machine I have been involved with in the past that includes software also includes a yearly charge for software upgrades and tech support after the first year.

I’ve been an AutoCAD user and programmer since the early 80’s; started with version 1.2. All the upgrades through the years I had to pay for, usually about $500 per user seat. Then the dealers don’t want to talk to you for free either. They also want a software support contract before they will help you. MasterCAM, SolidWorks, Pro-Engineer they are all pretty much the same scenario. They are in a very competitive business.

There is no other software on the market that works with the CarveWright/CompuCarve machines. The software developers are not under any pressure to add to or improve their programs. Remember the company is selling machines not software. The machines do for the most part, what that they are designed to do.

If another $2000 3-D carving machine hits the market then perhaps LHR would take a pro-active move to improve their software. For now it gets us by.

If LHR Technologies, were to offer a professional software package to replace the current software I wouldn’t mind paying $500 for it. In fact I would love to be a Bata tester for it.

Am I happy with what I got for 2 grand, You bet'ya.

mtylerfl
12-28-2007, 07:23 AM
Hello hotpop,

I agree that the Designer software that comes with the machine is an EXTRAORDINARY value compared to any alternative out there.

I have to disagree with the statement that LHR developers are not under any pressure to improve the software. Believe me - they are.

In my many conversations with the folks at LHR, I have first-hand knowledge that they are constantly working behind the scenes to make improvements, add features and make the software even more functional. They do listen intently to what customers want and need. Many late nights and long hours are spent trying to incorporate requests that are "doable", and many of the features they are trying to incorporate are not "trivial tasks" according to Chris Lovchik (the inventor of the machine).

I recently had a conversation with Joe Lovchik (Chris' brother) and mentioned to him that it's too bad people don't know how much intense effort they put in for their customers. We both ended up saying "no one will ever really know".

We really do have a very dedicated team of developers at LHR, always working to make a great product even better.

TIMCOSBY
12-28-2007, 08:31 PM
change the board size without all the patterns going haywire and moving.

ChrisAlb
01-11-2008, 04:37 AM
I'd be happy if the memory card were a two way street. We should be able to download or open a project that's on the card. Not "too" big a deal as I save often but I had a situation where a power failure took away all my work on screen and I had a copy on the card I couldn't get to. Had to start all over again. Like any camera cardf or USB drive, it should be just another "drive" that works both ways.

I don't know if it's just in the newest version 1.125 but the pattern list is a bit infuriating to organize. I've created "new" folders that I can't put anything in and I have "doubles" of both the favorites and basic folders I can't delete. Frustrating.

As I'm working with the software I'm creating a list of both bugs that need fixing & features that would be nice to have.

ChrisAlb
01-11-2008, 04:43 AM
change the board size without all the patterns going haywire and moving.

Hey Tim,

This used to REALLY bug me too but I've found that if you tag all your items to the left side of the board only, you can resize the board without them turning into a jumbled mess. It would be nice however to have a "release" or "slide" feature you could turn on before resizing the board that would leave everything in it's "relative" position.

TIMCOSBY
01-11-2008, 06:12 AM
for the tip. looks like that would be in the manual somewhere doesn't it.

ChrisAlb
01-11-2008, 06:38 AM
Probably just something they never considered thinking we'd set the board size ahead of time. Like us, I'm sure they're aware of many changes they need to make to the software. Perhaps once they do, they'll write a new manual.

Also, they (like any other software developer) depend on consumer feedback like this to improve the product. Let's face it, none of us can consider "every" contingency up front. I've found them to be VERY responsive to our needs and requests but software? Hey, that takes time...lol

gmalanoski
01-11-2008, 12:56 PM
Though it's not difficult to hit "p", it's just annoying that the pattern window continually disappears. This should be super simple to implement. :)

tbroeski
01-12-2008, 06:36 AM
There is no other software on the market that works with the CarveWright/CompuCarve machines. The software developers are not under any pressure to add to or improve their programs. Remember the company is selling machines not software. The machines do for the most part, what that they are designed to do.

If another $2000 3-D carving machine hits the market then perhaps LHR would take a pro-active move to improve their software. For now it gets us by.

If LHR Technologies, were to offer a professional software package to replace the current software I wouldn’t mind paying $500 for it. In fact I would love to be a Bata tester for it.



Me too. The big thing is that I asked about the software being able to use stl files and such when I bought my machine. I was told they would have a pro version out in couple months or so. That was in 2006. It's now 2008. There's just no way to convert something from Solidworks or any other CAD program and get an accurate part. It's a machine for "artistic" work and not precision work. I had expected they would do what they said. The machine gets very little use, except for gift items or when I'm in the mood to play. Would be great if I were a sign maker.

Now, if they can't or aren't really going to have the "pro software" then I would like to know.
Space is always in short supply.

Kenm810
01-12-2008, 09:20 AM
I’m very pleased that LHR has made available to us
(The Troubleshooting Guide and The Exploded View Parts list Manual)
They are a Great help to us while working on our machines
or speaking to one of the Techs in their Service or parts Departments.

Now I know its been asked for many times in the past,
but I would really be happy to see posted a comprehensive list of Error Messages “by number”
and how they pertain to the machine, and what we can do or not do to avoid them.

Just one of my wishes

Rickrljones
02-06-2008, 10:27 AM
In order to install Designer 1.26, I had to remove 1.25 from my computer. Doing so, that function deleted my favorites. After upgrading to Designer 1.27, I'm not able to insert different catagories for my patterns, having over 300 patterns on my computer, mostly VA3D Files. Example below is what I'm trying to accomplish.
Basic - Folder
Animal Collection VA3D - Folder
Vector Art 3D Starter Collection - Folder
Forum Patterns - Folder
Scanned Patterns - Folder

Each folder will have multiple sub-folders according to insert patterns. Any help with this issue would be appreciated.

mtylerfl
02-06-2008, 11:23 AM
In order to install Designer 1.26, I had to remove 1.25 from my computer. Doing so, that function deleted my favorites. After upgrading to Designer 1.27, I'm not able to insert different catagories for my patterns, having over 300 patterns on my computer, mostly VA3D Files. Example below is what I'm trying to accomplish.
Basic - Folder
Animal Collection VA3D - Folder
Vector Art 3D Starter Collection - Folder
Forum Patterns - Folder
Scanned Patterns - Folder

Each folder will have multiple sub-folders according to insert patterns. Any help with this issue would be appreciated.

Hello,

There's a Designer 1.27?? I haven't seen any announcements for that version.

Rickrljones
02-06-2008, 01:28 PM
Sorry Micheal Typographical Error!!! My Fault!!! Designer 1.26

mtylerfl
02-06-2008, 02:58 PM
Sorry Micheal Typographical Error!!! My Fault!!! Designer 1.26

That's OK. I just didn't want to be left out if there was a new version. I am still hoping that a future version will fix all the pattern issues...i.e., the category management problems, duplicate patterns showing up but can't be deleted, a user choice for saving patterns as "protected" or "non-protected" and especially the silly "You may only edit unlicensed patterns which you have authored" message even though you authored them yourself in a previous version.

I'll wager they're working on it as we speak. Just not enough hours in the day (and night) for the programmers!

Rickrljones
02-06-2008, 10:02 PM
While working with Designer 1.26 today I noticed I had duplicate entries for the Basic patterns that game pre-installed. I found one of the entries was located under Documents and Settings/User Name/CarveWright. I deleted this entry (Basic) and the duplcation disappeared.

Spoke with LHR today, about being able to add more folders for pattern oraganization. The representive told me that as soon as our conversation was over, he was going to bring this issue up with the programmers. Having over 300 patterns listed in one folder will take days to locate what you're looking for.

Bones1963
02-12-2008, 07:52 PM
This may seem strange, but would love it if there was a place to put instructions about the pattern or carving. My memory is so bad that I have carvings that I have been working on and then saved and gone onto something else and by the time I get back to it I forget what I was doing with it. You could also put instruction if you have several pieces that together make a project. Maybe there is a way to do this if I was a computer wiz, but sadly I am not.

BobHill
02-12-2008, 08:07 PM
How about a note pad with the name of your carving file (MPC) and what your intent is. If you keep the note pad near your carver, that should help.
Bob

jwhllh55
02-12-2008, 10:47 PM
I love to see a way to stop or skip a pattern being proformed. Example:
You see that the machine is stair stepping and you want to skip one of the cuttings. Or you had to reinstall the board and skip the first two or three cravings to get the the area that needs to be finished. There should be a way to have the machine see each of the operations and give the operator the option to continue, stop or skip that operation. Any thoughts or is this food for thought for the geeks in the back room?
It sure would make the machine more user freindly...
Thanks All,
John Hammett

BobHill
02-13-2008, 07:41 AM
That's been on the Wish List for a long time now, JW. Although I've stopped a carving, removed the wood and then replaced it and had the machine begin carving all over again without any cuts/carving where there shouldn't have been without a problem. Of course, since it goes back to the original starting point and is then cutting where there is nothing to cut, the time it takes is like it was originally when it really was cutting. Being able to skip or even originally Start in a particular part of the project would often be a true Godsend.
Bob

ChrisAlb
02-13-2008, 07:56 AM
If you have "separate" carvings on a board and one or more is done but you need to finish others just make a copy of the project and remove the finished ones and leave the one(s) needed. I've done this several times and although it's no fix for the softwares shortcomings, it works well.

Just my two cents.

jwhllh55
02-13-2008, 08:06 AM
If you have "separate" carvings on a board and one or more is done but you need to finish others just make a copy of the project and remove the finished ones and leave the one(s) needed. I've done this several times and although it's no fix for the softwares shortcomings, it works well.

Just my two cents.

Yep, that is the method I have been using. It's just a pain where a pill can't reach. I have even used different memory cards and put parts of the same project on each card to get the craving done.. My only problem that still plauqes me is stair stepping. If i do one cut at a time the stair stepping isn't as bad...
Thanks all,
John Hammett

ChrisAlb
02-13-2008, 08:48 AM
Yep, that is the method I have been using. It's just a pain where a pill can't reach. I have even used different memory cards and put parts of the same project on each card to get the craving done.. My only problem that still plauqes me is stair stepping. If i do one cut at a time the stair stepping isn't as bad...
Thanks all,
John Hammett

John,

I had the same issue with stepping once. Turned out to be a torn belt on mine but the other cause is too little head pressure. If you have the Ole bathroom scale, check yours. should hover around 70lbs. Mine is at 72 and with good belts, haven't had the problem since. I just finished a 6' 6" long carve last night. 14.75 hours including cut outs inside and all the way around. Not even a fraction of an inch off anywhere.

mtylerfl
02-13-2008, 09:30 AM
Yep, that is the method I have been using. It's just a pain where a pill can't reach. I have even used different memory cards and put parts of the same project on each card to get the craving done.. My only problem that still plauqes me is stair stepping. If i do one cut at a time the stair stepping isn't as bad...
Thanks all,
John Hammett

Hi John,

Question...are you adding the extra 7" to your board that you insert into the machine? The project needs to always be captive under the rollers at all times. I ask because that is another common cause of stepping (i.e., using boards that are too short to stay under the rollers).

hotpop
02-14-2008, 10:34 PM
Hey Chris,


I just finished a 6' 6" long carve last night. 14.75 hours including cut outs inside and all the way around. Not even a fraction of an inch off anywhere.

I think you are the current record holder for 2008. If it holds up through out the year we'll have come up with a trophy or something for ya. Anyway, welcome to the "10 Plus Hour Club". I think you are our only member.;)

I forgot to mention membership dues. Club dues will need to be paid in full before receiving awards.

jwhllh55
02-14-2008, 10:49 PM
Hi John,

Question...are you adding the extra 7" to your board that you insert into the machine? The project needs to always be captive under the rollers at all times. I ask because that is another common cause of stepping (i.e., using boards that are too short to stay under the rollers).

No I didn't use the extra 7". Forgot.. Plus, the roller head now is stuck and will not move up or down. I will get it fixed and I'll remember to use alittle more wood next time

hotpop
02-14-2008, 11:02 PM
Check the outboard rollers. If they are to high they can cause the board to hang there momentarily then lift the board causing a step.

ChrisAlb
02-15-2008, 04:12 AM
Hey Chris,



I think you are the current record holder for 2008. If it holds up through out the year we'll have come up with a trophy or something for ya. Anyway, welcome to the "10 Plus Hour Club". I think you are our only member.;)

I forgot to mention membership dues. Club dues will need to be paid in full before receiving awards.

WOW!..... I mean GEE!.... I mean COOL!!!.... LOL I'm honored!

I'd love the trophy Mel but I think I already paid my dues. After all the excitement of finishing, I Paid...hold onto your hat... ONE HUNDRED EIGHTY SIX BUCKS to GROUND ship it 600 miles. Would have only cost me 140 in gas round trip to drive it to NC in my wifes little Suzuki. If my ever failing back could have taken it, I would have walked right out of there and went.

I was amazed, agassed and APPALLED at this. But I stood there saying to myself I have 2 choices, send it, or don't send it. I felt so bad about this for my customer that I offered to cover half. But he insisted on paying it in full and did so. Like I said, one of the nicest people I've met but I still feel bad about it.

But it sure takes the wind out of my "sales" for making a business out of this as I have to think, if I had 200 people wanting the same thing for the same money, 199 of them would walk away over the shipping costs.

I intend to sit down this morning and write a very explicative letter to UPS which now, to me, stands for Undermining Peoples Success!! And the real kicker?, I say to the guy PLEASE, you can't put enough FRAGILE stickers on this and his response was "oh my God no! We won't put ANY on it." (as I stood there speechless he continues)..."if it gets in the hands of some disgruntled employee and they see FRAGILE, they'll smash it!!"

I don't know about all of you but I think we need to band together and fight such an injustice. I mean, LRH in Texas can send a roughly 3' x 3' x 3' box weighing 80 lbs to me in PA for $48 but I send an item thats 6' 5" x 8" x 3/4" weighing less than 4 lbs less than half that distance for $186??? And I'm told if I mark it fragile there's a better chance it will get destroyed in route than if I don't??!! Somethings wrong here.

Now I understand about volume shipping and all so I ask the guy what it would take to "qualify" for such discounts and he laughs and says..."Thousands of shipments per month". By now I'm sure you can tell that I'm just SICK about this!!

Thanks UPS for STICKING IT TO THE LITTLE GUY!!! :mad:

HighTechOkie
02-15-2008, 08:07 AM
Something doesn't add up. I just went to UPS.com and entered a package of dimension 80"x12"x4" (should have 2" of packing around object to be shipped), a weight of 4lbs and going from Oklahoma City to Greensboro, NC (first city in NC I thought of :) ), and it came up with $23.53 for GROUND and $183.55 for NEXT DAY EARLY AM.

Having known several people who work or have worked for UPS and FedEx, the clerk was correct it advising you NOT to put fragile stickers on the packege :(. I guess the employees just see it as an insurance claim for the customer costing the company money. Since these guys are all union, there is nothing corporate can do.

I do hope you packaged that between a couple 1" x 12"s, otherwise, I doubt it makes it in one piece :(.

Rob

Gunner
02-15-2008, 08:25 AM
I don't care how strong the union is. If an employee purposely destroys material being shipped he/she should be fired. If this is the type of employees they hire I will look for another way to ship to my customer.
If you don't complain no one will hear you.

Gunner

ChrisAlb
02-15-2008, 08:38 AM
Something doesn't add up. I just went to UPS.com and entered a package of dimension 80"x12"x4" (should have 2" of packing around object to be shipped), a weight of 4lbs and going from Oklahoma City to Greensboro, NC (first city in NC I thought of :) ), and it came up with $23.53 for GROUND and $183.55 for NEXT DAY EARLY AM.

Having known several people who work or have worked for UPS and FedEx, the clerk was correct it advising you NOT to put fragile stickers on the packege :(. I guess the employees just see it as an insurance claim for the customer costing the company money. Since these guys are all union, there is nothing corporate can do.

I do hope you packaged that between a couple 1" x 12"s, otherwise, I doubt it makes it in one piece :(.

Rob

Hey Rob,

No 1 x 12's but the guy at the UPS store insisted on a 15 x 15 box for it. He had a 10 x 10 but since the project was 8" he refused to ship it saying it would only have 1" of packing around that dimension. I asked if he had any other options in boxes like a 4 x 12 would have worked fine but nope...either 10 x 10 which he wouldn't do or 15 x 15. In the future I'll get the darn box and packing myself. To have such a limited choice in boxes seems ridiculous to me.

This is the first time I've ever shipped anything out so the whole thing was new to me. Perhaps I was taken as to the choices of box sizes??? I don't know.

Jeff_Birt
02-15-2008, 08:43 AM
but the guy at the UPS store insisted

There is why it was so expensive, you went to a UPS store. If you box it up yourself (perhaps double box it) and take it to a depot or buy your shipping label on line (and drop it off at the UPS store) you will pay about 1/2 the price. 'The UPS Store' (formally known as Mail Boxes Etc) offers some nice services but you really pay for them.

ChrisAlb
02-15-2008, 08:54 AM
Jeff, yep, I had that thought (packing it myself) as I left the place. I didn't know you could go on-line and buy the shipping label though...sigh...live and learn. Now I'll insist on refunding a portion of the cost to my customer. He certainly shouldn't have to pay for my lack of knowledge...THANKS! Puts a little hope back in selling projects other than locally also.

On the tool bar note. I got it fixed by un-installing the program, deleting just the tool-bar section in the registry and re-installing. A little convoluted to be sure but it worked.

TIMCOSBY
03-23-2008, 10:50 PM
i really needed a cut path to cut on the line not to either side. seems that would be simple.

Jeff_Birt
03-23-2008, 11:03 PM
Hey, Tim you cal already do that :p

Starting with Designer 1.126 there is an 'inset' setting that will do that (negative inset values are offsets).

TIMCOSBY
03-24-2008, 04:33 PM
but the inset doesnt affect the cutpath location or at least on the screen it doesnt show. it will keep the.125 in the inset box but CUTPATH doesn't move. i know on vector cuts it works maybe theres something i am missing?

Jeff_Birt
03-24-2008, 06:22 PM
You can flip a cut path with the button labeled 'Flip Cut' in the cut path dialog. :p

TIMCOSBY
03-24-2008, 08:50 PM
wanted it on the line not to either side.

10693

iwas trying to get two peices of trim the same out of one board and because cutpath only gives the option to be on one side or the other and not on the line it messed with the geometry a little had to mopve the circles on the bottom one up about an 1/8".

and if they did it it would simplify the command i.e. cut outside of pattern, cut inside of pattern, cut on line.

jlitz
03-24-2008, 09:07 PM
I would rout the path through the board instead of using a cut path and insert a few manual tabs, plus use 'drill thru' instead of cut path on the circles.

Maybe something like the attached sample?

Actually, 'drill thru' is probably not the best idea. The carve time would be 3x longer.

TIMCOSBY
03-25-2008, 09:50 PM
the drill through and looked at the time diff. i got it close enough for now but it would have been better to have the cutpath cut "on the line " option.



still requesting "on the line" cutpath option if your listening lhr.

ca92972
04-17-2008, 07:39 AM
Vector file support-
import of eps, raw and other vector file types
Fonts, shapes need to be vector paths so you can control size of, keeps file size down. Scaling of objects and fonts with out rez lost. Clean lines
Points and text can be aligned, Text can be flowed on to a path and around a shape(s).
Font can be broken apart and each line and point can be edited (make costume font shapes)

Router-Jim
04-17-2008, 08:38 AM
Wish list:

Give Designer the ability to accept free hand drawing like MS Paint.

jbraman
04-30-2008, 07:31 PM
Not sure if its been said yet, but I would like to see better pattern management. Meaning that I can drag and drop patterns into categories I want, while in designer. The current system is pretty tough, ie..I can't group new designs into the categories under "basic".

jwhllh55
04-30-2008, 08:09 PM
Not sure if its been said yet, but I would like to see better pattern management. Meaning that I can drag and drop patterns into categories I want, while in designer. The current system is pretty tough, ie..I can't group new designs into the categories under "basic".

I agree, it would be a lot easier to drag and drop. The option to make a new folder and drag and drop into it would help too.

Happy Craving..
John Hammett

mtylerfl
04-30-2008, 09:04 PM
I agree, it would be a lot easier to drag and drop. The option to make a new folder and drag and drop into it would help too.

Happy Craving..
John Hammett

I am using version 1.120 - it has the ability to drag and drop patterns into categories (new folders) I create. Are you saying that you are not able to do that in version 1.126??

kwyjibo67
04-30-2008, 09:43 PM
I was able to create a new category (right click on "Favorites" or one of its sub-categories and select "New"). This only works in the "Favorites" tree and its branches. To drag and drop between categories, the category must have at least 1 pattern in it. So if it is a new category, you need to import a pattern to that category before you can drag and drop to that category. A little cumbersome, but doable. You can't create new categories under the "Basic" tree (no menus pop when you right click). It would be nice to be able to create other categories on the same level as the Favorites and Basic categories, as well as being able to drag and drop into empty categories.

ChrisAlb
05-01-2008, 04:30 AM
I was able to create a new category (right click on "Favorites" or one of its sub-categories and select "New"). This only works in the "Favorites" tree and its branches. To drag and drop between categories, the category must have at least 1 pattern in it. So if it is a new category, you need to import a pattern to that category before you can drag and drop to that category. A little cumbersome, but doable. You can't create new categories under the "Basic" tree (no menus pop when you right click). It would be nice to be able to create other categories on the same level as the Favorites and Basic categories, as well as being able to drag and drop into empty categories.

Actually, that's not quite true. I thought the same thing at first but then I learned.

When you drag a pattern into a folder that contains none yet, watch the little red line as you drag it. If the line runs all the way across the list window, it won't drop in a "sub" folder. It will drop back where you got it from.

If you crowd the right side of the list window when dragging you will see the line change from "all the way across" to "halfway across" the list window. That indicates you're going to drop it in the "sub" folder.

I was bent out of shape by thinking the same all of you are. Just happened to see it do this one day and PRESTO! I learned. Works every time.

Hope that helps folks.

mtylerfl
05-01-2008, 08:18 AM
OK, I see what you're referring to. That is correct, you cannot create directories in the folder that Designer "comes with" (i.e.,called Basic in the newer versions... Library01 in the older versions)

twehr
05-01-2008, 08:27 AM
Not sure if its been said yet, but I would like to see better pattern management. Meaning that I can drag and drop patterns into categories I want, while in designer. The current system is pretty tough, ie..I can't group new designs into the categories under "basic".

The best way (currently) is to use the free CCW Pattern Organizer (see link in signature). It is a separate utility from Designer. You can:

move installed patterns between categories,
create categories,
do backups,
do restores.

Lots of good features that Designer is missing.

cnsranch
05-01-2008, 09:28 AM
I've been using Tim's organizer for about a month - it's solved all my problems regarding grouping/deleting, etc. Works from your desktop as a seperate program, in my opinion, it does what the CW software should be doing already.

Give it a try, it's the bomb (sorry).

ChrisAlb
05-01-2008, 09:33 AM
I also use Tim's organizer and it's simply great!! Sorry I neglected to mention that Tim.

One of the best things about it is you can work with separate MPN files. I have the one that Designer uses and I have another Designer knows nothing about. I can maintain them individually and then just switch them when I want to for Designer to use.

Great Program!!

twehr
05-01-2008, 09:38 AM
I also use Tim's organizer and it's simply great!! Sorry I neglected to mention that Tim.

One of the best things about it is you can work with separate MPN files. I have the one that Designer uses and I have another Designer knows nothing about. I can maintain them individually and then just switch them when I want to for Designer to use.

Great Program!!

Thanks for sharing that idea.

We have started an area where users can discuss and share ideas about CCWPO. It would be great if you would go to that site and share your tip (http://cncartguild.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=22&sid=9306605ea636331d6a6945f959ddd078) as a new topic.

Thanks, again Chris!

ChrisAlb
05-01-2008, 09:42 AM
Consider it done Tim.

Right now I have to go meet with Al and Chisel Me Timbers down the road from me. Will post the idea as soon as I get back. Or, of course, you're welcome to and thanks for letting me know about the area you have.

twehr
05-01-2008, 09:44 AM
OK, I see what you're referring to. That is correct, you cannot create directories in the folder that Designer "comes with" (i.e.,called Basic in the newer versions... Library01 in the older versions)

...since it may get replaced or modified when LHR updates anything and you have to install again. Best practice is to leave the supplied library alone.

jj8950
05-03-2008, 02:25 PM
if not already stated...a full text toolbar with the ability to change fonts and font size and see the font you pick, and the ability to set line spacing, the kind you see in almost all graphic apps.

Jrdarrah
05-26-2008, 09:36 PM
It would be helpful if the cutpath could have the option to specify a depth. This would be extremely useful for cutting thin stock on a sled. As it stands now CW will cut both the board and sled. By allowing the depth field, the user can specify to cut only through the board but not the sled.

andes
05-26-2008, 10:14 PM
It would be nice to have an option that will list all the spec's of the pattern/design you create (i.e. bits being used). So that if you are somewhat forgetful like me you can just print the info sheet and take with you for the actual carving ;-}

Andes

Digitalwoodshop
05-27-2008, 08:28 PM
I did not search and see if my ideas are on the wish list but here they are.....

In the Cut Path when the option comes up "Flip Cut", I would love to see an additional option with that screen that lets you select NORMAL or Reduced Depth of Cut. What I would like is to be able to select half the normal depth BITE the bit takes. This would let me feel more comfortable taking Cut Path cuts in OAK and some plastics. Plastics being the real interest... Yes it will cut Oak fine but it makes a racket.....

I would like to see a RCA type Jack or even two screw terminals as part of the contacts in the left cut switch circuit. This would let you wire a remote kill switch for users like me that have the machine running in another room or in my case a separate shop listening on an intercom and camera be able to stop the machine remotely. Easy to add yourself...

I would like to see a remote set of contacts that would trigger a dust collector. Now when it finishes the dust collector runs until I go back to change the bit. I have a on demand switch that I will plug into my dust collector and machine. Contacts would be better.

I would love to see the rotary attachment brought out for Christmas.

AL

Dan-Woodman
05-28-2008, 04:40 PM
Al
Two things. I have a remote contol on mt dust collector, about $70.00 or they have dust collector controls that work with low voltage made for hooking up blast gates, then when the blast gate is opened the collector turns on . This could easly be converted to the low voltage of the machine I would think. I don't know what voltage this is though.
Penn State Industries have them.

Do you know anything about this rotary attachment? Is it more like a turntable thats lying down, or is it more like a headstock for spindle turning?

later Daniel

estein01
05-28-2008, 07:28 PM
The only thing I would like to see so far that I would like to see added is the ability to have default paths for saving and opening. When I click on 'open' it should go to a folder that I specify, not to 'content.ie5/f0a0o0sq'.


Eric

Jeff_Birt
05-28-2008, 08:19 PM
It defaults to the last folder you opened/saved from (as do most other programs). If you open an MPC directly from the forum (instead of downloading it to your PC somewhere and then opening Designer/loading it) it will be down loaded to your browsers temp folder and the next time you launch Designer it will still point there.

JRBauer
07-04-2008, 12:00 AM
I would like to see keyboard shortcuts for zooming and moving the board. For example:

"cmd +" -- zoom in (larger) (also "cmd =", i.e. ignore the shift key)
"cmd -" -- zoom out (smaller) (also "cmd _")

"left arrow" -- move board right
"right arrow" -- move board left
"up arrow" -- move board down
"down arrow" -- move board up

The arrow-key shortcuts could be combined with "cmd" (or "ctrl") to effect larger or smaller movements.

I have found keyboard shortcuts for tool selection, but have not seen documentation for them.

mtylerfl
07-04-2008, 06:05 AM
Hello,

There are shortcuts via the keyboard and mouse movement already, if that helps you...


Shift+Left Mouse Button= Zoom in and out

Shift+Right Mouse Button= Move Board (pan left,right,up,down)

Press and Hold Middle Mouse Wheel= Rotate Board

ChrisAlb
07-04-2008, 06:46 AM
OK, I guess I'll throw a "few" of my wishes in the mix. Sorry if some are repeats but the thread is getting long so this will just serve to consolidate them if so.

Designer Additions:

1) Ability to turn the board 90 degrees & "Straight" (for making projects that will hang long ways & Designer "Knows" it so patterns and text are placed on it right. We have to manually turn it now (almost impossible to make it straight) and then rotate all patterns and text 90 degrees. Vertical & Horizontal centering buttons would switch.

2) Ability to rotate vector lines drawn. The same way we can with patterns. I see in 1.130 we can at least "flip" on the Vertical and horizontal axis now. Good Deal LHR...Almost there...lol

3) Ability to connect mirrored vector lines so we only have to draw one side of a shape, mirror it and then connect them to produce a region or cut path.

4) Ability to Break & Add/Remove vertex's to circles and ovals the way we can with every other shape or line.

5) Ability to connect lines or arcs between the vertex's of circles and ovals. Or at least be able to "Snap" line or arc ends to those vertex's.

6) Ability to use attachments on the "centers" of arcs.

7) Ability to import DWG files as vector lines. I can whip up simple or complex line drawings in AutoCad very quickly. Be nice if we could drop them on the board and apply bits. OR, LOL, put those CAD capabilities in Designer.

8 ) Once you have a shape drawn, the ability to resize it in any direction without it going haywire and loosing shape. Especially happens with arcs like in rounded corner squares or rectangles.

9) ONE button to remove ALL attachments at once. Same for constraints. It's time consuming enough to have to ADD all of them in order to force Designer into letting you create complex shapes. But then having to remove them ALL "one at a time" in order to move that shape around? Please.....

10) This is more of a "fix" than an addition. When you have a pattern, or vector shape and you attach it, NOT having the pattern or shape change size. It's funny but say you have a rectangle that's 5" long and 1" wide. When you attach it to the boards edge or center lines, if the attachment "Pulls" it closer, the size doesn't change. BUT, if the attachment "Pushes" it away, the size changes....Why?? I humbly ask.

11) Centerline - Either, Designer should "know" when placing it in a carved region and adjust accordingly OR, Designer should tell the CW to ask us to "manually jog" to the surface it's on in any project that has it in a region.

OK, I have a few more plus some for PE but I have to work now. Plus I'd like to play with the new 1.130. I'll add to this list as I have time.

Mark Gelinas
07-04-2008, 05:02 PM
How about being able to place a contour on the end face of a piece that could be carried down the length of the board, like on a piece of moulding? Better yet, blend two opposite end profiles along the length? Picture placing two different sized airfoils on the board ends and end up with a tapered wing having a longer chord and/or thicker root at one end versus the other. It would be so easy if splined curves could be placed on the ends and adjusted with the vertex tools rather than placing surface contours on the front face and trying to get the separate regions to match up.

jwhllh55
07-07-2008, 10:13 PM
If there was one thing I would love to see in an update is the addition of a measuring tool that could be used with the mouse movement. Either by a left or right click to place the "A" point and a light line would show up as the mouse went to the point "B".

ChrisAlb
07-08-2008, 05:24 AM
If there was one thing I would love to see in an update is the addition of a measuring tool that could be used with the mouse movement. Either by a left or right click to place the "A" point and a light line would show up as the mouse went to the point "B".

Hi jwhllh55,

Well, actually it does (sort of..lol). Maybe you know this already but, for precise placing of things I use the coordinates at the bottom left of Designer's window. When used in conjunction with the grid and snap options, it's possible to get pinpoint accuracy.

Picture one shows me about to start a line. The first number represents distance from the left edge of the board. The second number is from the top edge. The third number is the depth of cut at the cursor. For this I'm starting at 1" from the left and top.

The second picture shows after clicking the start point, dragging the line out to 8" and still 1" from the top.

The third picture shows the depth reading. I put a little carved region at .25" deep. As the cursor passes over any carved point, the third number reads the depth at that point.

Hope this helps.

MikeMcCoy
07-08-2008, 06:23 AM
Thanks Chris

I've been doing trial and error and did not realize that the capability was already there.

I'll be happy to buy an advance copy of CarveWright For Dummies if someone is working on it. :D

BobHill
07-08-2008, 08:29 AM
Although that would be nice to see a ruler built in Designer like you have in vector programs such as CorelDraw, Xara and Adobe Illustrator, you already have very good ways of measuring, of course: Check your grid option and you'll see that it's set for 1/2" grid lines. Also, if you select any object, your status bar will show you it's dimensions in width, height and angles. Also you can use your vector path tools to make your own exact measuring tool and when done, either just keep the measurement objects saved as a MPC or just delete them from you final piece. All in addition to Chris' post.

Bob Hill

ChrisAlb
07-08-2008, 08:37 AM
Thanks Chris

I've been doing trial and error and did not realize that the capability was already there.

I'll be happy to buy an advance copy of CarveWright For Dummies if someone is working on it. :D

You're welcome Mike,

But, You don't have to buy a book for dummies, it's already being written in this forum every time a question gets answered and the best part is ..... it's FREE ....http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif

jwhllh55
07-08-2008, 11:18 AM
Hi jwhllh55,

Well, actually it does (sort of..lol). Maybe you know this already but, for precise placing of things I use the coordinates at the bottom left of Designer's window. When used in conjunction with the grid and snap options, it's possible to get pinpoint accuracy.

Picture one shows me about to start a line. The first number represents distance from the left edge of the board. The second number is from the top edge. The third number is the depth of cut at the cursor. For this I'm starting at 1" from the left and top.

The second picture shows after clicking the start point, dragging the line out to 8" and still 1" from the top.

The third picture shows the depth reading. I put a little carved region at .25" deep. As the cursor passes over any carved point, the third number reads the depth at that point.

Hope this helps.


ChrisAlb:

Yea, you're right, I knew about the coordinates at the bottom left of Designer's window. I use it all the time. However, I was building a large star and I wanted to know how large the star was after it was carved.
I know it doesn't matter, what I'm building is a wind generator out of wood, and I wanted the largest star that I could get.
Here is the mpc...
There are two of the stars with wings in between each star. The hole in the middle is for a bearings. The holes at the end of each point are for rods the pass through. When I was drawing this I wanted to know the size of the star before I carved it. Maybe, I asking to much for a simple tool in designer..
Thanks for all your help..

ChrisAlb
07-08-2008, 11:31 AM
ChrisAlb:

Yea, you're right, I knew about the coordinates at the bottom left of Designer's window. I use it all the time. However, I was building a large star and I wanted to know how large the star was after it was carved.
I know it doesn't matter, what I'm building is a wind generator out of wood, and I wanted the largest star that I could get.
Here is the mpc...
There are two of the stars with wings in between each star. The hole in the middle is for a bearings. The holes at the end of each point are for rods the pass through. When I was drawing this I wanted to know the size of the star before I carved it. Maybe, I asking to much for a simple tool in designer..
Thanks for all your help..


Well, according to the dimensions in your file, it will be 12.977" Wide by 12.328" Tall. With the cut path on the outside like you have it, It should finish within roughly .008 of those numbers.

jwhllh55
07-08-2008, 11:49 AM
Thanks, I was just making a commet about the wish list. I found that the size of the star was exactly as you have said.
It would just be easier to use a pull down measuring tool.
Thanks again and happy carving.. I'm trying to invent a power generator in wood and once I figure out how to build it, I'll make one for real.. Here in Baker City, OR we have a lot of wind and there isn't any reason I can't capture some of it's power. Which brings me to another question:
I was looking at the project with the fish and the clock, and was wondering if the CW could carve a wing to install with the star top and bottom. The wing should be about 5" wide and 15" long and with the shape shown below.
If anyone has an idea of how to program this blade, I need the help...
Thanks again..
John

Kenm810
07-08-2008, 04:58 PM
John,

I played with this a bit after I saw your post,
You might be able to use some of its basic idea elements to make what you need.

ChrisAlb
07-08-2008, 06:12 PM
That's pretty cool Ken. I didn't take the time to perfect the shape but with the addition of a couple merged regions and opposite surfaces, you can add a twist over the length like a prop blade.

Kenm810
07-08-2008, 06:16 PM
Between the three of us, I think we just reinvented a wooden Fan! http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif

jwhllh55
07-08-2008, 08:46 PM
Between the three of us, I think we just reinvented a wooden Fan! http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif

I think your right. However, thanks you very much. I really think this will work. The blade doesn't need to have a pitch to it, because I will drill a hole from end to end for a rod to fit through. The rod will fit on two bike wheels that are on a shaft that is hooked up to a earth magnet alterntor. I'm hoping it will turn in 4 to 15 mph wind, and generate some power.
Once I have it built I'll take a few pictures and post them.
Thank you again Ken and everyone else that has helped.
I'm on my way to free power, maybe. LOL

Ron Baird
07-08-2008, 09:25 PM
Use the rotate tool to turn the board close to 90 then click on the squaring tool and it will position the board at exactly 90 degrees.

Kenm810
07-08-2008, 09:47 PM
John,

One more thought, first carving could cut two halves on one side of a board while the second carving could cut 1/4" by 1/8" flutes in the back of the board,
flip one around and glue them together to form the foil with a 1/4" x 1/4" hole from one end to the other with out trying to drill a 15" staright hole the length of the foil.
I think it would save time and be more accurate. like I said just a thought. http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif

jwhllh55
07-08-2008, 10:03 PM
John,

One more thought, first carving could cut two halves on one side of a board while the second carving could cut 1/4" by 1/8" flutes in the back of the board,
flip one around and glue them together to form the foil with a 1/4" x 1/4" hole from one end to the other with out trying to drill a 15" staright hole the length of the foil.
I think it would save time and be more accurate. like I said just a thought. http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif

Great idea, I'll use it. I really didn't think of using the carver to make the lenght hole, but that would work just fine. I'll do that tonight and get it glued up. Thanks again.

roughcut
07-15-2008, 10:22 PM
I wish CW would have designed a set of fonts just for the center line .Also wish a senior member would moderate a forum on the center line . It seems to me it wouldn't take a lot for CW to fix center line to carve in a reccessed area . Just my wish...

rfmorris
07-31-2008, 11:08 AM
I'm not sure if this has been mentioned yet but, I'd like to be able to control cut path depths so I am able to add tabs using a cut path without worrying about cutting up my sled.

BobHill
07-31-2008, 11:59 AM
RFMorris,
To limit through cutting damage to your sled, if all your path cuts are inside the wood boundary, then you can make the sled with it's center missing, having the wood rest solidly on an edge solid enough to hold the wood. This will work as long as the total depth is less than 1" counting the sled edgle. Cut path will make the automatic tabs

Having said all that, you CAN set a depth to your select bit (straight 1/8" without it going all the way through, but, of course, you'd have to use a knife to cut through and do the final clean up. If you do the above with a missing center edge to your sled, you also can set the cut depth and assign your own tabs. Since there is no bottom, the machine doesn't know that and will cut through the wood just like it would to a depth with wood still below it on a thicker piece.

Bob

Amonaug
07-31-2008, 12:24 PM
RFMorris,
To limit through cutting damage to your sled, if all your path cuts are inside the wood boundary, then you can make the sled with it's center missing, having the wood rest solidly on an edge solid enough to hold the wood. This will work as long as the total depth is less than 1" counting the sled edgle. Cut path will make the automatic tabs

Having said all that, you CAN set a depth to your select bit (straight 1/8" without it going all the way through, but, of course, you'd have to use a knife to cut through and do the final clean up. If you do the above with a missing center edge to your sled, you also can set the cut depth and assign your own tabs. Since there is no bottom, the machine doesn't know that and will cut through the wood just like it would to a depth with wood still below it on a thicker piece.

Bob

Actually that won't work as the tabs would be in the missing part of the sled, not the bottom of the project.

BobHill
07-31-2008, 12:32 PM
Amonaug,

Note that I have outlined TWO procedures. The top is using the CUT PATH method ... with missing center to the sled. Cut path will go to depth of the wood, which in this case would include the depth of the wood AND the depth of the sled, which then must total not more than 1" as that is the limit of the CUT PATH function.

The second procedure using both a full bottom and center cut bottom sled is using the SELECT BIT and allowing that to cut the wood to any depth you wish to set. This, however means, that if you are using the no center method sled, you have to make your own tabs in the path. Do you know how to do that?

Bob Hill

Kenm810
07-31-2008, 12:33 PM
I'm not sure if this is what you guys are talking about

BobHill
07-31-2008, 12:39 PM
Not exactly, Ken, except you could make that into a proper sled for the SELECT BIT method by making roller rails around the sled edges and having the cutouts where the SELECT BIT path depths would be positioned. Manual tabs would, of course, have to be added into the path in a couple three places.

Bob Hill

mtylerfl
07-31-2008, 03:05 PM
Hi Bob,

I first thought the "center missing sled" would not work...that is until I realized you meant that the project board was placed UNDER the sled! That would work! That technique is very similar to the "Rail Sled" described in Tips & Tricks.

ChrisAlb
07-31-2008, 03:23 PM
I like using my perimeter sleds. It allows for any carving, one sided or two, allows for using the cut path no problem and the one shown (36") will allow carvings in any length from 1/2" to 36" long with the movable center blocks. Dark wood is not an issue because you set the sensor up right over the left movable block.

I've built them for all standard size dimensional lumbar from 1 x 4 to 1 x 12 and in 36" and 60" models. Those numbers are between the fixed ends.

TerryT
07-31-2008, 03:40 PM
Chris,
How do you lock the movable pieces in place to hold the board?

ChrisAlb
07-31-2008, 04:14 PM
Terry,

Sorry....down in the shop convincing myself that the cut motor was my problem with 1.130. It was and I'm now 100% convinced.

The movable blocks in the sled run in slots. The side rails are slotted and the blocks have tongues. All I use is tape to hold them in place. Once the blocks are slid up against the ends of the board, I place tape split on the blocks and board which hold both in place. I run one piece of tape on the tops and one on the bottom. I don't wrap the tape around the sled rails so there's no interference with the guide rails on the CW.

I hope that's clear buddy...lol...running on my second 24 hour non stop day in a row here to meet a moved up deadline on some of those camp projects Al and I are doing. Due today and I have them done...whew!

Digitalwoodshop
07-31-2008, 05:53 PM
Good Job Buddy....

AL

CraigR
08-05-2008, 04:28 PM
A couple things on the software wish list for me would be:
1.) Be able to import .eps files
2.) Be able to select bit for pictures
3.) Be able to set the depth for Centerline text.

JimmieJames
09-21-2008, 11:16 AM
I think it would be nice to be able to put multiple boards on the designer and put one big pattern on all three, The designer could automatically take 1" off all sides of the boards when you select multiple boards so carving to the very edge would not be a problem and you would see only three 10 inch wide boards on the designer,Then the designer could load it as three seperate projects, Then after it carves them you would just rip 1 inch off the sides of the boards and put them togeather.. What I mean is if I would enter three 12inch boards into the designer and put a horse pattern on it, The first board would have the head the second board the body and the third board the legs. In the end you would have a 30 inch carving of a horse...
Now that I have confused myself I hope someone understands what I mean!!!

Digitalwoodshop
09-21-2008, 01:12 PM
You could do it now just turn on the GRID and make the blocks 1 inch and print your results on paper to help you adjust the other boards.

With a jointer you could fine tune the joint in the end.

AL

dragoncarver
09-22-2008, 07:20 PM
how do you change the blocks to 1 inch

mtylerfl
09-22-2008, 08:57 PM
how do you change the blocks to 1 inch

Wow - someone's not reading their Tips & Tricks!;) (see Issue 3, Dec '07, "Handy Tips for Everyone")

Very basic function everyone should know. Just go to the Layout menu, then select Snap, then type in the desired value in the Snap Interval box. You can also choose whether to Snap Objects to Grid, etc., etc.

I often change the grid sizes several times during the layout of a project. Really helps to put things exactly where you need them, quickly and easily. Try it, you'll like it!

Yosserg
10-12-2008, 12:57 AM
I'm enjoying all the updates with 1.131 and my wish list is about extending those changes further.
When I cut thin material I use a sled that has extra material around the edges (see Tip & Tricks April 08 for some examples) and I would like to be able to draw a line across my work area to cut the piece in half and have tabs automatically made. Basically, I would like to be able to apply the cutout options to any line I make.
Next, I like the ability to choose my cut depth on cut paths and would like the ability to choose the cut depth on carvings. If I'm carving soft materials I would like to be able to go deeper for faster carvings and shallower cuts for harder materials.

Thanks,
Matt

brdad
10-12-2008, 03:36 PM
Here is a feature that I think could be beneficial that I didn't see posted yet....

A test mode, where the machine tests all its axes 3 or 4 times as well as run the cut motor at different speeds for 30 seconds or so.

One purpose it would serve - letting the user watch the machine going through it's motions to make sure it's running smoothly and that it doesn't hang up anywhere. The machine should be smart enough to know if the Y and Z axes are traveling their entire range of motion and give a message accordingly. It probably could check the cut motor speed to insure the speed sensor is functioning correctly as well.

Another purpose would be that users could run this mode before carving when the temperature might be a bit cool - it would help loosen up the grease and verify the machine was warm enough to operate before using it on an actual piece of wood.

Being able to check the sensors is a nice feature. But it doesn't help when the cover wires are binding the Y axis or sawdust is binding something else.

rjusty
10-14-2008, 03:58 PM
My design skills are improving rapidly, thanks in large part to the forum. I'm always tweaking mpcs to make them run faster and look better, and I often find myself doing design work while the machine is running. It would be great to be able to get an estimate of run time for a project without going through the upload process, since the card is in use.

2upchuck
10-14-2008, 05:28 PM
Wow - someone's not reading their Tips & Tricks!;) (see Issue 3, Dec '07, "Handy Tips for Everyone")

Very basic function everyone should know. Just go to the Layout menu, then select Snap, then type in the desired value in the Snap Interval box. You can also choose whether to Snap Objects to Grid, etc., etc.

I often change the grid sizes several times during the layout of a project. Really helps to put things exactly where you need them, quickly and easily. Try it, you'll like it!

ALWAYS impressed with your responses Michael !!!!! You seem to answer a simple question without demeaning anyone or scolding for not doin a thorough search without actualy providing any help. Thank You

Chuck

mtylerfl
10-14-2008, 10:46 PM
Hello Chuck,

Thank you for the encouragement - I appreciate it very much.

It helps to remember "from whence I came" when first starting out. I recall it was a little scary for me at first, and I got a lot of help from our "more senior" forum members back then (and now, too). So I just try to follow their example and offer whatever I can while traveling along this fun and exciting adventure.

This forum has always been a great resource and a great place to find some help and comfort with some friends. Thanks again!

jwhllh55
11-15-2008, 04:54 PM
This doesn't have anything to do with the software, but there should be some warning that the Z Axes is slowing down.
What happen is I was carving Blue high-des foam and the cuttings got under the roller and the z belt. If I were to wish for something, it would be a shield that would keep cuttings and/or dust out of the belt and rollers. And some way to reto fit a sheild to the machines that are out in the world.

Thanks for listening,
John Hammett
Baker City, OR

BobHill
11-15-2008, 08:14 PM
John, if you do a search on Dust Collectors and CW tables/cabinets you might come up with an excellent way to capture most of any type of dust caused by bit carving on ANY material. Be sure, the foam is hard enough also to handle the pressure of the rollers (about 85# normally) and if it can't, then put the foam onto a jig with walls solid enough to be able to do that. My dust collector virtually keeps all dust from collecting inside and since it has a very large air filter, it also helps a lot with breathing cleaner air in the shop (it's a large Jet Dust Collector).
Bob Hill

tbroeski
11-26-2008, 05:09 PM
When I first bought my machine a couple years ago (2006), they said they were working on software that would allow me to use my stl and other cad files. It was to come out within 3 months of my getting my machine -- now almost three years. Is this ever really going to happen? I would have bought a CNC router instead, but since I didn't, I would really like to use my cad files to make model airplane parts, which this machine just can't do with any accuracy.

SAA3840
11-28-2008, 09:41 PM
I'm sure someone has already added this but I didn't want to read through umpteen pages to find out. I'd like to be able to know how long a carve is going to take without having to download it first.

Raymond Lalonde
11-29-2008, 10:20 AM
I would like to know this also if you can find the time it will take to carve a piece before getting to the upload.

BobHill
11-29-2008, 10:49 AM
Raymond,
Have you used the CW flash card Dongle at all yet? Once you have completed a MPC project in Designer, then File, Upload (with your flash card in the Dongle) and in the Flash Card Menu on the bottom you have an option to choose Quality with three choices from Draft, Normal, to Best (most of us choose BEST), but that also brings about a longer carving/cutting time). You'll see the file name (if it's open in your Designer) and below that the Estimated Finish time in hours, minutes, seconds, depending upon your quality choice. It is also accurate, but only counts the time your machine is carving and cutting, of course, not if or when you cause it to pause or stop for any reason.
Bob Hill

Hexe SA
12-01-2008, 03:57 PM
To store a stop point in a carve. I don't have always 4 hrs or longer for some of the projects to carve and would like to stop after 2. Instead of leaving the machine on for 20 hrs or more to resume carving I wish I could program the stop point and next time resume. Maybe repeat 3-5% and leave the board. All the measuring and bit finding would be fine before resume. Sure would be helpful instead of an aircarve or leaving the machine on.
Thanks
Eva

HelpBot3000
12-01-2008, 04:01 PM
Well in a sense you can do that now by placing a carve region over the area you have already carved in the project, in the designer and set a carving depth of 0. Its not 100% that it will line up perfectly but honestly neither would any kind of saving point mid-project unless the project piece was left totally alone and not disturbed at all.

ChrisAlb
12-01-2008, 04:08 PM
To store a stop point in a carve. I don't have always 4 hrs or longer for some of the projects to carve and would like to stop after 2. Instead of leaving the machine on for 20 hrs or more to resume carving I wish I could program the stop point and next time resume. Maybe repeat 3-5% and leave the board. All the measuring and bit finding would be fine before resume. Sure would be helpful instead of an aircarve or leaving the machine on.
Thanks
Eva

I agree Eva. In fact, I've been wanting and suggesting a BIOS added to the CW since 07. Not so much for stopping it but for when the inevitable power failure happens. A battery powered bios (like your computer has) could keep the carve data in tact so it could resume where it left off after a power failure.

BobHill
12-01-2008, 05:32 PM
Eva,
Being able to stop a project completely and then when you restart, have it begin where you left off has been on the wish list almost since any of us first started. Perhaps someday that can happen. One thing I've found, is that if I stop the machine take the wood out, then put it back and restart the same project, the Machine will once again measure and restart the project EXACTLY as it did the first time. However, since it's going to go through exactly the same pacing, the only thing you are saving is wear on the bit for what's already been carved.

I've found that it tracks the exact same path as before, so there is no loss to your project's pattern, but also it's only allowed you to have some free time between carvings, no saving of time...in fact, you've doubled the time from what was carved before.

Having said that, how about making a long project into multiple projects so that you can then apply the projects in order with each having it's own time to accomplish it's task. With little effort that shouldn't be too hard to accomplish until WE get that pause ability.

Bob Hill

Ike
12-10-2008, 04:10 PM
You know what I wish for? To be able to purchase a warranty for a used machine. For example a member is selling his machine and from my understanding the warranty is not transferable. More often then not the machines have very little use, yet if you buy the machine you pay for repairs.

Would think it is easy to track by transferring the serial number. That way even if it the machine had low hours it could be tracked if it was past the one year. If a warranty can't be sold, at the very least the remaining warranty be honored. Maybe for a transfer fee?

Then it would be nice to be able to buy an extended warranty from CW. I know that is already on the wish list !

Ike

cestout
12-14-2008, 01:05 AM
The biggest problems I had were fixed with the draft and make pattern tools, but I would like to have the option of concave or convex feather.

Dan-Woodman
12-14-2008, 04:16 PM
You can do concave feather by making another outline of your carve region and applying a roundnose bit to the same depth as your carve region.
As for a convex , use the round OVER bit set to the depth of your carve region.
That maybe as close as you can get for now, hope this helps.
later Daniel

cestout
12-14-2008, 09:37 PM
The problems with using cove or round over bits around the edges are the corners are round and any objects neat the edge of the cutout will get cut. It is just a wish and would be nice, but not really necessary for me like the other two fixes I mentioned were. The are a BIG help.

Dan-Woodman
12-15-2008, 07:33 PM
I don't have a any programs like Corel, but I would think you could do the feathering and roundover in them using the carving bit.
later Daniel

skeeterman
12-15-2008, 09:21 PM
it would be nice to be able to do your design in designer then print a copy of it so you could show customer before you carve .

jcorder
12-15-2008, 09:28 PM
you can do that now. If you have a program that will do a screen grab you can print it. I found it posted on here about a program called King Kong Capture, download it and it will do what you want.

good luck
Jeff

Digitalwoodshop
12-15-2008, 09:32 PM
We do it all the time.... Make the project big in the screen. Hit Print Screen and paste it into a email. Edit the picture and crop the art. Save as a picture then you can insert it into a forum post or email to a customer.

AL

mtylerfl
12-16-2008, 07:52 AM
The biggest problems I had were fixed with the draft and make pattern tools, but I would like to have the option of concave or convex feather.

I'm still trying to figure out what in the world a "convex feather" is. :confused: ;)

Jeff_Birt
12-16-2008, 08:06 AM
I think the OP is referring to a having rounded profiles instead of a linear gradient for the feather. Of course you could then have two such profiles one that would typically be called a fillet, like smoothing caulking out in a corner with you finger, and the other, who's proper name escapes me presently, would be like a raised bead of caulking.

The issue I could see with both approaches is choosing a radius that would not be too steep for the carving tools profile in every case. A secondary gotcha would be trying to get such a radius to blend properly. I see the second problem sometimes in 3D modeling programs where I want to apply a fillet or radius and the program cant figure out how to properly apply it to the entire path.

Kenm810
12-16-2008, 09:06 AM
Feathering and Inverting Pattern??? Maybe Convex Feathering ???

skeeterman
12-16-2008, 06:48 PM
thanks Jeff i downloaded king kong capture but i couldnt get it to do what i was wanting to do.

Azbear
12-16-2008, 07:43 PM
Feathering and Inverting Pattern??? Maybe Convex Feathering ???

This looks like a "draft" adjustment and carve "inversion" to me.

It may be the same thing here? Just guessing.

Further explination on this may be talked through?

mtylerfl
12-16-2008, 08:41 PM
thanks Jeff i downloaded king kong capture but i couldnt get it to do what i was wanting to do.

Hey Skeeterman,

Just press "Print Screen" for a complete full-screen capture...or, press "Alt+PrintScreen" for an active window screen capture only.

After you've done the capture, just open your graphic software and paste the capture into it. Easy and simple, no special screen capture software required (although it's certainly a mystery why you couldn't get the "king kong" software to work!!).

BobHill
12-16-2008, 08:59 PM
Actually, the one I like a tad better is SnagIt by TechSmith because of all the extra things it'll do for you, but after a free trial period it costs. http://www.techsmith.com/ Usual disclaimer, my only associtation to the product is that I own it and have used it for a long time.

Bob Hill

cnsranch
01-16-2009, 09:18 AM
Just thinking....

When setting up a cut path, and establishing the number of tabs, it seems that it would be good to be able to "see" where Designer is "planning" on putting the tabs. If we could see the tabs, we might be able to determine if 1, we have enough tabs, and 2, if the tabs that are planned might interfere with some details of the project.

Further then, it seems to make sense that we have the ability to nudge, or move the tabs slightly if they do interfere.

Any thoughts?

mtylerfl
01-16-2009, 09:22 AM
Just thinking....

When setting up a cut path, and establishing the number of tabs, it seems that it would be good to be able to "see" where Designer is "planning" on putting the tabs. If we could see the tabs, we might be able to determine if 1, we have enough tabs, and 2, if the tabs that are planned might interfere with some details of the project.

Further then, it seems to make sense that we have the ability to nudge, or move the tabs slightly if they do interfere.

Any thoughts?

That would be nice - we've discussed that before, but not sure if that's being worked on or not.

peter_l
01-18-2009, 07:18 PM
A few things I would like to see incorporated into the software.

-the ability to import vector based images from say Adobe Illustrator, and have them remain vector based.

-the ability to modify parts of text within the same text box with different styles (i.e. bold, italic, etc)

-the ability to tell the machine in what order to cut things

Thanks

Pete

BobHill
01-18-2009, 08:13 PM
Pete,
Most of us have wished for the same ability from either Adobe Illustrator, CorelDraw, or even Xara and perhaps someday that'll happen. It's more likely that if anything, it would be something more in the CAD family. One problem would be to distinguish between what is to be carved and what is to be cut. As it is now, Designer does just that by establishing a Path to cut, and the raster image (PTN) to carve. Since Fill is a raster option in all above vector programs, that would work and even the use of Mesh or gradient fill would work as those are raster effects, however, although Mesh comes close, raster is very difficult to make irregular shaped fills as would be needed to establish proper shaped depth carvings.
As it is now, however, since you can do all sorts of things to design in any of the three great vector programs above, and then turn that into a good PNG raster (which will carve just fine), and then make an OutLine Path for vector cutting in Designer, that's still probably still the most reliable method of creating your designs for carving.
Bob

jpaluck
01-21-2009, 02:47 AM
would be nice to be able to import a 32 bit tiff or png. My software for patterns will export a 32 bit tiff and the difference between that and 8bit is night and day...possibly alot less sanding.

john

BobHill
01-23-2009, 09:56 AM
John,
Perhaps I'm of the old school, but where can you possibly use a 32bit color. I have a cadre of printers and the best they will do is 300ppi and 24bit color. I have PhotoShop CS4 extended which will do 48bit color, but I've not seen any possible use for it yet.
However, in any case, remember that Designer WILL ONLY USE shades of gray and that's 8bit, no matter what program you use. Color stands for depth steps in Designer and the built in computer won't handle but 24 steps, and that's pretty smooth actually. Any fuzzyness is due to the wood being carved, and that's easily handled for me with soft sanding (tabbed sanding wheels, or soft sponge sanders in high numbered grit.
Bob Hill

AskBud
01-28-2009, 09:38 AM
I think my head is in the Wright place. I know I can "work around" the problem, for now, but I think this could make life easier for all concerned.
AskBud

mtylerfl
01-28-2009, 11:44 AM
I think my head is in the Wright place. I know I can "work around" the problem, for now, but I think this could make life easier for all concerned.
AskBud

Hello AskBud,

I'm not sure that the suggestion you submitted is actually needed. It is my understanding that software will know if you made any carve regions on the back already and will account for that when you perform a normal (automatic) Cut Path on the front of the board.

Because it "knows" this, the tabs will automatically be adjusted so that the tabs will be created in the remaining material. I believe this procedure is used by folks who create picture frames where a recess is required on the back for insertion of the layers of glass/photo/photo backing.

Please correct me if I am wrong on this.

Of course an easy way to verify is to do a test project and see if that works alright. I'm just sure that LHR told me quite some time ago that this is the case.

cmorlier
01-29-2009, 12:03 PM
That is correct. While compiling your project, the CarveWright Designer looks at the back of the board wherever there is a cutout, and keeps track of the deepest (and shallowest) carving on the back of the board along the cut path. The tabs are then shifted upwards by the machine firmware to ensure that they have at least the height specified.

If you are not seeing this behavior, then it is a bug; so please let us know about it. The best way to submit bug report is through the contact us page: http://www.carvewright.com/cms/contact-us.

Amonaug
01-31-2009, 10:43 AM
Speaking of tabs, a nice addition to the software would be to see where the tabs will be left even if they are just indicators in the design and not actually rendered.

Sometimes I do carved regions on the back and then when it cuts out on the front some places have nothing left to leave any tabs. It'd be nice to see where tabs are left so I can make adjustments to the setting or even better is let us place tabs where we want them.

Dan-Woodman
01-31-2009, 10:55 AM
The CW should know where it has carved and leave tabs accordingly, unless you do the back and front as seperate programs.
later Daniel

Yosserg
02-06-2009, 07:15 PM
I would like to be able to specify what feature an attachment is referenced to and be allowed to reference from other items on the board. For example this way I could reference a hole to be 1" down and 2" left from the corner of a carve out and then if I move the carve out the hole will move with it.

BobHill
02-07-2009, 08:20 AM
When you say you wish the hole to be exactly in the same spot then you'd have to have the design set to the same size and then you can do it easily as is. Open your new design or design your new mpc and then open your previously saved design mps which has the parts (pattern or cutting path or hole/text etc.) and select (usual way by dragging the Pointer tool to encompass what you want) and Control C - COPY it. Now go back to your new design and Control V - PASTE it. It'll all go into your new design into the position it was in the original design (if the same size). If not the exact location that you wish it, then just put it physically where you want it or by the numbers where you want it/them. Give that a try.

Bob Hill

dominulus
02-12-2009, 08:46 PM
Add the option for the software to remember your last settings as preferences. I like toggling off perspective view, auto re-render and texture to speed things up a bit. It would be great if the software could remember my preferences -- at least for the document I save.

Add the ability to rotate cut paths that are made with the various drawing tools.

myairplane
02-17-2009, 09:24 AM
I'd like to see an updated manual! The current software install installs the previous version's help system. So many new features in the current release but nothign to explain what they do.. :(

Case in point: "Select bit", nowhere in the manual do it explain this new dialog box. Can't find anything on the search for select bit, inset, etc..

Cut quality: Doesn't explain the new "Optimal" setting either.

There are quite a few more I have run into. the learnign curve for a newb trying to learn this software is drmaticaly inceased.

mtylerfl
02-17-2009, 10:57 AM
I'd like to see an updated manual! The current software install installs the previous version's help system. So many new features in the current release but nothign to explain what they do.. :(

Case in point: "Select bit", nowhere in the manual do it explain this new dialog box. Can't find anything on the search for select bit, inset, etc..

Cut quality: Doesn't explain the new "Optimal" setting either.

There are quite a few more I have run into. the learnign curve for a newb trying to learn this software is drmaticaly inceased.

Hello,

There is indeed a very nice, new manual in the works right now. In the meantime, the Tips & Tricks can be very helpful and fills a few of the gaps.

Another side note - (not a sales pitch:)) - I dare say, the Monthly Project Subscribers do seem to learn a lot more about the capabilities of their machines quicker, simply through observation of the how the projects are laid out, and learning from the step-by-step illustrated instructions as they run the various projects. Bit swap procedures, two-sided carving techniques, and other little things here and there, become familiar and "comfortable" to subscribers. Many of the projects are very original and are more esoteric than one would normally encounter in everyday use. Thus, the user is exposed to more of the machine's features.

In any case, a new manual is on the horizon! (Of course, keeping up with the software programmers is always a challenge - I'll bet almost as soon as the new manual is released, they'll probably be more features added that won't be in that one either - but, that's just how it is - constant changes and periodic updates with no end.;))

andes
03-01-2009, 08:37 AM
Don't know if this is an old wish or not, but it sure would be nice if you could move more then one pattern at a time. Sometimes I need to move more then one pattern and it's a bear doing one at a time. It would be nice if you could use the the Ctrl and Shift keys, like in windows to select the patterns you want to move, then drag and drop into the new category.

BobHill
03-01-2009, 10:27 AM
Andrea,
If you mean that you have patterns in a folder (like Favorites) within designer and you'd like to make a new folder (+ sign in front of name), then you can do it like you'd do in other Windows programs. Just hold down CONTROL or SHIFT key and select (usually in Windows that options is using the CONTROL key and the SHIFT key is used to gather select items "between" the items you click with that "quick" key. Try using SHIFT and clicking on your choices, then when you see them all "blue" selected, drag one into the new or other folder (it will underline under the new folder) and drop. This DROP them from where they will be and take them from where they were. Give that a try.
Bob Hill

James RS
03-01-2009, 01:36 PM
I'm not sure if this was asked of yet, so here I go I'd like to see a variable speed rate maybe make slow/medium/fast as in some of the cnc software have.

Thanks,
Jim

BobHill
03-01-2009, 02:04 PM
There is that feature, Jim. In Designer, when you upload to your Dongle you can choose Draft, Normal, and Quality, which is exactly the same as your request except the words are different. Carving speed goes along with the resolution being used. The carving bit rpm doesn't change, but the steps in height and distance for each "node" does.

Bob Hill

mtylerfl
03-01-2009, 02:35 PM
To clarify what Bob was saying - when uploading to your Memory Card (a dongle is a term more normally used for copy-protection hardware devices, like what I have for Cubase and for ArtCAM software)...

...there are 4 quality choices. They are "Draft" - "Normal" - "Best" - "Optimal"

BobHill
03-01-2009, 02:36 PM
I thought I wrote a reply to this before, but don't see it. Hoping that I haven't missed it somewhere, I'll do it again.

You DO HAVE that option in Designer. When you choose the quality to upload your design to your CarveWrite Dongle (Memory card), you choose either DRAFT, NORMAL, or QUALITY and that's exactly what you are asking, but in different words. The rpm of the bit isn't changed (naturally) but the number of points where it steps is changed.

Most of us only wish to carve at Quality standard, but of course, that's going to take longer to carve than the other two. Remember that this is the CARVING speeds, not the CUTTING speeds. There is a difference only in Carving.

Bob Hill

mtylerfl
03-01-2009, 02:43 PM
Hi Bob - gentle correction here...

...there is no such thing as a "QUALITY" setting in the quality choice list...it is Draft, Normal, Best and Optimal:)

Here's a link I found for you that defines the term "dongle" (in the sense that it is most commonly used today) ... http://education.yahoo.com/reference/dictionary/entry/dongle

James RS
03-01-2009, 03:14 PM
I appreciate the quick reply, but what i am referring to is more along the lines of feed rate
say a photo you'd want to do alot slower compared to a text sign or even cutting an outline.
Maybe the upload part does that I'm not sure

BobHill
03-01-2009, 03:19 PM
Thanks for the corrections, Mtyferl, but since we're in that phase of understanding, actually the CarveWright is NOT a true CNC, and is a CNC printer as it uses nodes to establish it's carvings different from how a machinist uses a CNC to creat objects. Check into other such devices today, such as www.dimensionprinting.com (http://www.dimensionprinting.com) which is a true 360° CNC printer (about $14,000) and its accessory 3D laser scanner (about $5,000) www.nextengine.com (http://www.nextengine.com)

Bob Hill

BobHill
03-01-2009, 03:24 PM
Jim,

The feed rate IS established by the quality mode you set when sending the project to your CarveWright from Designer. You only have those variables, however. Remember that the carving scale is set to 8bit color, so you have a constant bit speed, but the steps (with 256 steps) are set forward/backward and left and right and up and down to the resolution (quality modes) you send to it. I don't believe that you could coordinate manually what the computer aboard does automatically to the mode you set for it.

Bob Hill

mtylerfl
03-01-2009, 04:09 PM
Thanks for the corrections, Mtyferl, but since we're in that phase of understanding, actually the CarveWright is NOT a true CNC, and is a CNC printer as it uses nodes to establish it's carvings different from how a machinist uses a CNC to creat objects. Check into other such devices today, such as www.dimensionprinting.com (http://www.dimensionprinting.com) which is a true 360° CNC printer (about $14,000) and its accessory 3D laser scanner (about $5,000) www.nextengine.com (http://www.nextengine.com)

Bob Hill

Hi Bob,

Point taken, however, the CarveWright is indeed a true CNC machine (CNC simply means Computer Numerically Controlled). The CarveWright numeric control just works differently than most pre-existing and current CNC machines. CarveBuddy has many of it's patterns converted for use with the other type CNC machines, and of course, those machines use a different "cnc" method than our CarveWrights - in any case, all of 'em are CNC machines.

Hi James,

Sorry, to have taken this so far off-topic from your original question/wish! Bob is correct that the machine itself adjusts the feed/speed rate for carving and cutting depending upon the quality settings the user has made, coupled with what the software programmers have calculated works best for various machine operations. Actually, the feed/speed rate is affected for both carving and cutting operations - not just carving.

I know that you are requesting a manual selection for feed/speed rates. Probably won't happen for this generation of machine (but, what do I know:confused:), since it is designed to be as simple as possible for any user and shields the user from additional complexities that are not really necessary for this type of machine (remember that the CW machine is not meant to compete with the larger, commercial type machines). The programmers have done a very good job of choosing speed/feed rates that work well on any type of wood you put into the machine. I think you'll discover you won't have any issues with the pre-programmed speed/feed rates.

James RS
03-01-2009, 07:20 PM
Hey it's all good, that's why it's called a wish list right lol it's just a wish I love my machine
Bob I found out about this diy 3d scanner awhile back before I even got my CW http://www.david-laserscanner.com/
As I was thinking on building a diy cnc machine and actually have a couple of different plans for them.
But when I found the CW and read alot about it and then a year later saw the demo at loews I bought one that day.

BobHill
03-01-2009, 08:03 PM
I'd say that you made a good choice, Jim. I can't imagine not having mine, although one can't have enough toys.

Bob HIll

weezimp
03-08-2009, 10:19 PM
When I use Edit: Board Settings on an existing project, I'd like to see an option to scale ALL or SELECTED or NONE objects in the project. And then, of course, scale said objects proportionately to the change in the dimensions of the board.

There's plenty of room in the Edit: Board Settings: Dimensions tab, at least as I see it on a Mac, so should be no trouble to put those options in there, one could assume...

mtylerfl
03-08-2009, 10:23 PM
When I use Edit: Board Settings on an existing project, I'd like to see an option to scale ALL or SELECTED or NONE objects in the project. And then, of course, scale said objects proportionately to the change in the dimensions of the board.

That is a good suggestion. Could come in handy in a number of situations alright. It would make it easy to create a small, medium, and large versions of the same project without having to lay it out all over for differing board sizes.

AskBud
03-08-2009, 10:46 PM
When I use Edit: Board Settings on an existing project, I'd like to see an option to scale ALL or SELECTED or NONE objects in the project. And then, of course, scale said objects proportionately to the change in the dimensions of the board.

There's plenty of room in the Edit: Board Settings: Dimensions tab, at least as I see it on a Mac, so should be no trouble to put those options in there, one could assume...

I think that if you display the Carve-List, and hold down CTRL and CLICK on EACH item you can do it now.
The design will have each item active and there are YELLOW Arrows in the corners that will allow you to size the entire design.
Do not use any of the RED Nodes!. I must say that I'm not sure if it also sizes the Cut-Paths as I did not check that aspect.

PS: OOPS
Sizing changed OK, but when I then changed the Board size the individual items did not stay in the same location as on the original.

weezimp
03-08-2009, 10:58 PM
Yeah. It's more complicated than it seems at first.

If you use Photoshop or Illustrator, you may be familiar with a little 3x3 grid that shows up during a scaling operation. It allows you to pick a point to anchor and all scaling happens with respect to that point.

That'd be another suggestion to add to the WL...

cnsranch
03-16-2009, 02:16 PM
As I was watching my design being cut out yesterday on 40 year old ash (harder than chinese arithmetic), hoping I had made the passes shallow enough to prevent undue stress (i.e., waiting for the bit to explode), it occured to me that if we had the ability to tell Designer the type of wood, hardness, etc., we were working with, it could auto default to a given set of parameters - in other words, give us a warning that we may be telling the machine to do something that may cause problems with that type of wood.

Surely, the bit could plow through balsa faster than ironwood.

Imagine -

Edit: Board Settings:
Length:
Width:
Thickness:
Wood Type:

AskBud
03-16-2009, 04:23 PM
As I was watching my design being cut out yesterday on 40 year old ash (harder than chinese arithmetic), hoping I had made the passes shallow enough to prevent undue stress (i.e., waiting for the bit to explode), it occured to me that if we had the ability to tell Designer the type of wood, hardness, etc., we were working with, it could auto default to a given set of parameters - in other words, give us a warning that we may be telling the machine to do something that may cause problems with that type of wood.

Surely, the bit could plow through balsa faster than ironwood.

Imagine -

Edit: Board Settings:
Length:
Width:
Thickness:
Wood Type:

Amen!
AskBud

ironsides
03-17-2009, 09:03 PM
When viewing the Dragster Video in the Educational Package, I see that the software will work with the *.stl file format.

What do we need to do to get LWR to make this option avaliable on the CW Designer software?

My solid modeling CAD software (Turbocad) will output .stl files and I would love to use this system for pattern making.

Ironsides

Using 1.133 with a crippled Pattern Editor (hint, Hint)

CraigR
03-22-2009, 10:58 AM
I would like the ability to make things bigger such as splitting up lettering or images to multipal boards to make lettering or image to go across 2 or more boards.

AskBud
03-22-2009, 12:52 PM
I would like the ability to make things bigger such as splitting up lettering or images to multipal boards to make lettering or image to go across 2 or more boards.

I searched for my old post (pointer) on "Large sign".
http://forum.carvewright.com/showpost.php?p=82889&postcount=2
AskBud

cestout
03-22-2009, 04:43 PM
If we could draw a line and see a cross section view at that point. I found that if I place some patterns on a 0.6 deep cutout, they come out too big. And how high is that dome? With this we could see just how various parts relate.

SAA3840
03-29-2009, 11:04 PM
LOL Made my posting and then saw that the previous two addressed exactly what I wrote about. So I deleted it.

roughcut
04-03-2009, 11:31 PM
I wish they would add an option so you could momentairly run the different axis to test there operation. Like when you change belts or z-truck.

TIMCOSBY
04-03-2009, 11:54 PM
I think that if you display the Carve-List, and hold down CTRL and CLICK on EACH item you can do it now.
The design will have each item active and there are YELLOW Arrows in the corners that will allow you to size the entire design.
Do not use any of the RED Nodes!. I must say that I'm not sure if it also sizes the Cut-Paths as I did not check that aspect.

PS: OOPS
Sizing changed OK, but when I then changed the Board size the individual items did not stay in the same location as on the original.


that if you attached all items to the left edge then they wouldn't go all crazy and have to be moved but i haven't tried it.

AskBud
04-04-2009, 08:34 AM
I wish they would add an option so you could momentairly run the different axis to test there operation. Like when you change belts or z-truck.

Would a "Measure Board" do the job?
AskBud

RMarkey
04-06-2009, 09:23 AM
Yes, if you're not cutting, you can put multiple board pieces in the machine and measure width to get the Y truck moving the full range...

leroy
04-13-2009, 07:37 AM
Need adjustable Cutpath depth so Cutpath can be used when using a sled on less than .5 stock. Or ability to insert tabs to lines

mtylerfl
04-13-2009, 09:23 AM
Need adjustable Cutpath depth so Cutpath can be used when using a sled on less than .5 stock. Or ability to insert tabs to lines


Hello Leroy,

You already have that feature (cutting on a sled with stock less than .5" thick) since last year starting with Designer version 1.131 of the software! You can also specify the number of tabs and their thicknesses. More than enough features to enable you to cut out thin stock without any problems.

Read the Tips & Tricks - ISSUE 12 September 2008
"Designer 1.131 New Feature Highlights " (http://www.carvebuddy.com/PDFs/CW_TipsandTricks_Newsletters/CarveWrightTips&Tricks_Sept08.pdf)

sweliver
04-13-2009, 10:19 AM
just like the current drill function but rect/square.

sw

cnsranch
04-13-2009, 11:28 AM
just like the current drill function but rect/square.

sw

Is there a square bit in the set?:cool:

roman
04-23-2009, 08:57 PM
Hi guys i just want to download again the trial software the carvewright offers and is there any way to download again ? reason asking for second chance is i had virus and i had to clean everithink .:(

BobHill
04-23-2009, 10:26 PM
Roman,
Call LHR and explain your ciecumstances. Only they can allow reuse after the time limit.
Bob Hill

roman
04-24-2009, 08:59 PM
thank you i appresiate BOBHILL:-D

lostinthefrost
04-27-2009, 06:09 PM
Hopefully this has not been said.

I would love to see a "rough" estimated countdown to when the project can be finished. I know there is no way to predict perfectly, but with changing of the bits and other stuff. Mainly with routing letters with centerline, there is no %.

Chino
04-29-2009, 09:15 AM
Hi
The memory card fits into the CW very snugly as you all know.
That's probably so it dosen't slip loose when carving.
I'd like to see it redesigned with some indentations on the end so you can get a better grip on it when you remove it. I have a problem pulling it out.
My fingers are a little arthritic and not as strong as they used to be.
I'm sure a slight indentation or some little convex bumps could be applied to the end of the card to facilitate it's removal. Thanks
Chino

ironsides
04-29-2009, 09:41 AM
Hi
The memory card ... remove it. I have a problem pulling it out.
My fingers are a little arthritic and not as strong as they used to be.
I'm sure a slight indentation or some little convex bumps could be applied to the end of the card to facilitate it's removal. Thanks
Chino

I certainly agree with your suggestion. I have the same problem and have resorted to using padded jaw pliers. This work great.:)

ironsides

fwharris
04-29-2009, 10:17 AM
Hi
The memory card fits into the CW very snugly as you all know.
That's probably so it dosen't slip loose when carving.
I'd like to see it redesigned with some indentations on the end so you can get a better grip on it when you remove it. I have a problem pulling it out.
My fingers are a little arthritic and not as strong as they used to be.
I'm sure a slight indentation or some little convex bumps could be applied to the end of the card to facilitate it's removal. Thanks
Chino

Chino,

Some have put a piece of tape folded over to make a tab to hold on to for pulling the card out..

jwhllh55
04-29-2009, 11:25 AM
Hi
The memory card fits into the CW very snugly as you all know.
That's probably so it dosen't slip loose when carving.
I'd like to see it redesigned with some indentations on the end so you can get a better grip on it when you remove it. I have a problem pulling it out.
My fingers are a little arthritic and not as strong as they used to be.
I'm sure a slight indentation or some little convex bumps could be applied to the end of the card to facilitate it's removal. Thanks
Chino

I also agree. There should be a better way to get the card out for us older folks..

Oak Tech
04-29-2009, 01:49 PM
The CarveWright needs an eject button on it like my laptop has for cards.
Bob

jab73180
05-06-2009, 11:34 AM
i wish there was settings for the different woods that we can carve. i noticed some burning on the carving i was doing. Plus you cut and carve way faster in pine than you can oak. But i am also new to this whole experience so info would be great. Thanx for the time.

-Jason

cnsranch
05-06-2009, 11:53 AM
i wish there was settings for the different woods that we can carve.-Jason

I brought that up some time ago - seems to be a simple thing to add a step in Designer that would allow us to enter the type of wood (maybe a "hardness setting"). The machine then could run at a higher speed for softer woods, and slower for harder, etc.