Ready to give up!

[Kazuale]

Still having sensor problems. Tried different material like pine, oak, and ash. Used masking tape and even tried putting whit out on the edges. Cleaned everything. The pine without tape worked once, but after that nothing worked. I keep getting edge detection errors. I really wan tto get this wroking so my students can incorporate it in their projects. Whats my next step?

[AskBud]

Still having sensor problems. Tried different material like pine, oak, and ash. Used masking tape and even tried putting whit out on the edges. Cleaned everything. The pine without tape worked once, but after that nothing worked. I keep getting edge detection errors. I really wan tto get this wroking so my students can incorporate it in their projects. Whats my next step?
I know you must have tried many things, but let's go through a list of things that may point to the actual problem.
First, I presume that all your boards have sharp/square edges. I, also, presume that you are speaking of the "width" edge.
1) Dim your lighting in the room (around the machine) and see if that solves the problem.
2) Try different width boards and see if they all fail, or if the problem only happens when you exceed a certain width.

Let us know the results.
AskBud

[mtylerfl]

Still having sensor problems. Tried different material like pine, oak, and ash. Used masking tape and even tried putting whit out on the edges. Cleaned everything. The pine without tape worked once, but after that nothing worked. I keep getting edge detection errors. I really wan tto get this wroking so my students can incorporate it in their projects. Whats my next step?

Hello,

I don't think you'll need to dim the lights in the room! Could you be more specific about what "sensor errors" you are receiving (i.e, what exactly is displayed on the LCD?) Have you called LHR Tech yet to see if they can walk you through a variety of checks?

[Frederick_P]

Did you recently install the Rock Chuck? When I installed mine, I followed the directions to apply heat to get the QC loose to be removed. And while I was diligent in wrapping everything with wet cloth and tin foil, the heat was enough to damage the plastic window on the board sensor and had the same problems as you are experiencing. A replacement unit solved the problem. Now, when I do an install of the Rock Chuck, I remove the board sensor from the machine to avoid damage. Check to see if this sensor is damaged.

[Deolman]

Have you used a bathroom scale to check head pressure?

[Digitalwoodshop]

Place a piece of white copy paper on the board, crank the head down.

What is the reading.... 156 GOOD.....90 BAD....

If bad... Replace sensor.... OR cut down the back and look for a broken LED.

Board detection errors are all about the Board Detector..... Blind....= Error....

AL

[Kazuale]

I have one of the first machines. If it is the sensor what would I be able to sell it for "as is"? In the meantime I'll try the white paper.

[Digitalwoodshop]

If you have one of the first machines then it is possible you have the 18 pin FSC Cable... The wide flat cable to the Z Head... Yes... Broken wires in that thinner cable did happen..... There is a new 14 Pin FSC Cable and 2 Circuit Boards called the Z Bundle that is a GOOD FIX..... Prevents Z Stalls too.... AND since it was a older machine then the board sensor was not glued... See the picture above... Cut the back off..... If a LED falls out.... Well then you replace the sensor.... If both LED's are still attached... then pull the plastic lens and clean it... look at the hole to the center receiver too.

Yes, you could have a pinched wire too... but not as likely... Waiting on the white paper test....

What do you have to loose... cutting the back off the sensor.... I have one with masking tape on the back that has been ruining like that since the summer of 2008..... My last sensor problem....


I say get the machine up and running and make some family Christmas Presents with it.... Don't sell it...

AL

[Ike]

Hello,

Have you called LHR Tech yet to see if they can walk you through a variety of checks?

I agree with Michael, it would be best to call LHR or arrange to have it sent in for repair. With the upgrade package it includes the shipping and upgrade the belts and QC to the new Carvetight! Plus let you know what else is going on.

I know you are out of warranty and Al is a great resource and will also help you solve your issues! I bet he won't mind you calling him and he doesn't charge a fee for his help!

Ike

[Digitalwoodshop]

Thanks Ike....

Sure enough.... My email and phone number are on the bottom of my web page.

Write or call..... I live for this..... Snicker....

AL

[jonm3]

My Carve Wright machine was in October 2010. A month later I am having the same issues as I did before. I thought it was a poor grade electrical wiring, moved my machine last night from my shed to my building that has industrail electrical wiring. Same old crap, Z, X, & Y issues. When my machine is doing it homing, it goes to the back to check the lever that comes out from the side, the lever comes out a little or half way. If the lever doesn't come out all the way, like half, the bit will go all the way down and plung down and fail and come up and say Z,X,Y when it is done checking. I am DONE. I rather go back to basic wood working doing the scroll sawing than have to deal with this ZXY!!
I give up.

[dbfletcher]

My Carve Wright machine was in October 2010. A month later I am having the same issues as I did before. I thought it was a poor grade electrical wiring, moved my machine last night from my shed to my building that has industrail electrical wiring. Same old crap, Z, X, & Y issues. When my machine is doing it homing, it goes to the back to check the lever that comes out from the side, the lever comes out a little or half way. If the lever doesn't come out all the way, like half, the bit will go all the way down and plung down and fail and come up and say Z,X,Y when it is done checking. I am DONE. I rather go back to basic wood working doing the scroll sawing than have to deal with this ZXY!!
I give up.

There are a variety of reason why that lever doesnt extend all the way. But many of us have found it simpler just to take a small piece of foam and have the lever extended at all times. As long as you are not carving a 14.5" width board, this should never be an issue. I made sure my rails where clean, the lever was lubed, and all the wires where tucked away where they should be. Without the foam I was still running about 50% it worked, %50 it didnt. With the foam... never had an issue again. It may be worth a shot.

[Kazuale]

thanks for the tips and pics but I wasn't able to open them individually. I tried it again today and it worked the first time without problems, tried again with same board and got Error 400. I'm not sure how the white paper test is suppose to work. I put the paper on a board and it poked a hole it it or kept telling me to load a board. The detection errors happen when measuring the length of the board, it measures the widths fine. I also tried the masking tape and that didn't help either. When I did a sensor test it just told me if my cover was open or closed. Since i replaced the motor I don't get the Z stalls you mentioned in other postings. Is the cover you are talking about cutting off the black one opposite of the clear cover? Mine has screw holding it in with the exception for around the wires that go to the motor. I'll try getting that off today. what is you webpage address? Thanks, Bill

[jonm3]

But why doesn't that lever come out all the way like it should? This morning the lever came out enough for the machine to pass the homing, then when it went to carve, it come up with the XYZ issue. I have the lever problem no matter if it is a 11 inch or a 14 inch wide board, same old issue.0
I have had my machine since 12/2009, its been in for upgrades, 1 repair, now this problem.
I just don't know if I am going to keep my machine the way this XYZ problem goes. I know I will lose money. But I will not have the headack of this XYZ issue.
and I have kept it clean.



Ok, just got it up and running, I am doing a basic pattern so that I don't waste the wood. Running ok now.

This time when I went to clean it where sawdust sits, is right above the area of the card, I turned the machine over on its side and got out all the sawdust out this time. As of right now, it is 5% done on the carving sign. I am happy now it running.



There are a variety of reason why that lever doesnt extend all the way. But many of us have found it simpler just to take a small piece of foam and have the lever extended at all times. As long as you are not carving a 14.5" width board, this should never be an issue. I made sure my rails where clean, the lever was lubed, and all the wires where tucked away where they should be. Without the foam I was still running about 50% it worked, %50 it didnt. With the foam... never had an issue again. It may be worth a shot.

[DickB]

jonm3, there are two common causes for the lever problem. One is a pair of wires that run from the cut motor to a switch in the cover. The head can get hung up on these wires if they are not out of the way. I fought with this problem until I came up with a fix. I drilled two pairs of holes on the cover and installed zip ties through the holes to secure the wires out of the way.
3997339974
(There are many little ways in which the machine could have been designed and built better in my opinion; this is one of them.) The other common problem is lack of lubrication. Spray some lube on the pivot and work it a few times.

The x, y, and z servos all get feedback information from rotary optical sensors. These sensors have covers on them but they do not seal tightly. (Again, a small detail that could have been implemented better). When I started getting Y errors I searched the forum and learned about dust getting into these sensors. I was shocked to find a good teaspoonful of dust in both the y and z sensors. I was amazed that they worked at all. I ran a fine bead of silicon seal around the covers when replacing them, which has helped. But I just cleaned all three sensors again last week and that cured a minor z axis registration problem that I was having.

Dust is the enemy of this machine and a good dust collection system is the answer. If you don't have one, get or make one. A top collection port is essential, but I also use downdraft in combination. You will be amazed at how much this improves reliability of the machine. Again why the makers don't include a dust collection port or offer one as an option is beyond me.

This forum can be your friend and in my opinion is almost a requirement to successfuly operate this machine. If you are having a problem, almost certainly others have too, and have taken the time and effort to post with solutions. I search the forum whenever I encounter a new problem, and don't stop when I find an answer, but try to find multiple answers, then see which one or ones are most like my problem.

We have all had our frustrations with this machine. Hang in there, search the forums, use dust collection, perform maintenance, and you can do amazing things with the machine and software.

[alan.galbraith]

I was having the same problem until I lubed the arm. It works all the time now. even better.

[fwharris]

jonm3, there are two common causes for the lever problem. One is a pair of wires that run from the cut motor to a switch in the cover. The head can get hung up on these wires if they are not out of the way. I fought with this problem until I came up with a fix. I drilled two pairs of holes on the cover and installed zip ties through the holes to secure the wires out of the way.
3997339974
(There are many little ways in which the machine could have been designed and built better in my opinion; this is one of them.) The other common problem is lack of lubrication. Spray some lube on the pivot and work it a few times.

The x, y, and z servos all get feedback information from rotary optical sensors. These sensors have covers on them but they do not seal tightly. (Again, a small detail that could have been implemented better). When I started getting Y errors I searched the forum and learned about dust getting into these sensors. I was shocked to find a good teaspoonful of dust in both the y and z sensors. I was amazed that they worked at all. I ran a fine bead of silicon seal around the covers when replacing them, which has helped. But I just cleaned all three sensors again last week and that cured a minor z axis registration problem that I was having.

Dust is the enemy of this machine and a good dust collection system is the answer. If you don't have one, get or make one. A top collection port is essential, but I also use downdraft in combination. You will be amazed at how much this improves reliability of the machine. Again why the makers don't include a dust collection port or offer one as an option is beyond me.

This forum can be your friend and in my opinion is almost a requirement to successfuly operate this machine. If you are having a problem, almost certainly others have too, and have taken the time and effort to post with solutions. I search the forum whenever I encounter a new problem, and don't stop when I find an answer, but try to find multiple answers, then see which one or ones are most like my problem.

We have all had our frustrations with this machine. Hang in there, search the forums, use dust collection, perform maintenance, and you can do amazing things with the machine and software.

DickB,

Well said!!!

[AskBud]

My Carve Wright machine was in October 2010. A month later I am having the same issues as I did before. I thought it was a poor grade electrical wiring, moved my machine last night from my shed to my building that has industrail electrical wiring. Same old crap, Z, X, & Y issues. When my machine is doing it homing, it goes to the back to check the lever that comes out from the side, the lever comes out a little or half way. If the lever doesn't come out all the way, like half, the bit will go all the way down and plung down and fail and come up and say Z,X,Y when it is done checking. I am DONE. I rather go back to basic wood working doing the scroll sawing than have to deal with this ZXY!!
I give up.

If the Touch Plate is not moving correctly, something is dirty, needs adjustment, or needs lubed. You should turn off the unit and move the truck to the far side (it should move with no effort, after the power has been off for about 30 seconds). If you have to force it along, you know some of the things to check/correct. If movement is easy, but it is hard to operate the Touch Plate, the track may have a dust/dirt build-up, the TP may need lube, or a wire may be out of place just behind the TP (toward the back of the machine).
AskBud

[liquidguitars]

I take a saw and cut a square out of the hood to make more room.

39985

[jonm3]

Yesturday, I was going to start my machine up, then started getting the XYZ error's. I stopped, went back and clean little heavier, getting places I may have miss. turned the machine on its side, and vacuumed the sawdust. It seem to work. My machine ran a good 4 hours and completed the project I was doing yesturday. Today, I will do the same way I did yesturday, check the area around the card. Sometimes sawdust sits there and its got to be cleaned out. So I am taking little more time before start up to run good.

DickB,

Well said!!!

[DickB]

Even with cleaning, eventually sawdust is going to work its way into places such as the encoders and cause problems. Your machine will look clean, but dust in these hidden areas will cause it to fail. Vacuuming won't get that hidden dust out; you will need to disassemble to get at it. You didn't say if you have a dust collection system. One will help keep dust out of these areas in the first place, reduce your need t clean manually, and extend the maintenance intervals. You should really consider this. This comes from the experience of a lot of users.

[forqnc]

Jonm3, I do not see where you live, but I had a bunch of issues with my machine, a few years ago. Come to find out my unheated shop was causing it. Grease and other lubrication's will change viscosity with temperature. My thought was it is 65 deg outside the *!@ thing should work. What I finally figured out was 30 deg overnight leads to a cold machine.
Hope this helps

[jonm3]

I am in Southern Fredericksburg, Va. bit north of Richmond. Today tried running my machine, stopped about 8%, wasted a piece of oak. LoL. I think my temp was 60. I am going to try to get a dust collection on my CW, may be cut out some of the error's. I know of another guy in Fredericksburg that has a CW, not sure if he gets on the boards here. I know pretty soon it will be staying in the 30's - 40's here in FredBurg, Va. Think pretty soon will be time to stop this year.




Jonm3, I do not see where you live, but I had a bunch of issues with my machine, a few years ago. Come to find out my unheated shop was causing it. Grease and other lubrication's will change viscosity with temperature. My thought was it is 65 deg outside the *!@ thing should work. What I finally figured out was 30 deg overnight leads to a cold machine.
Hope this helps

[TerryT]

Think pretty soon will be time to stop this year.

NO! Never Quit! A little heat and you can play all winter.

[Tom75]

i have read some where on the fourm a while back that some one put a drop light over the cw to heat it up . i tryed that trick in late sep early oct when it wasent quite cold enuff to get the wood stove going and it worked for me . took awhile but worked . i live in Mass 30min south of boston and 15min north of plymouth rock so it can get cold in the gradge . i hope this helps with some of the problems . and please dont give up it truly is an amasing machine.

[AskBud]

i have read some where on the fourm a while back that some one put a drop light over the cw to heat it up . i tryed that trick in late sep early oct when it wasent quite cold enuff to get the wood stove going and it worked for me . took awhile but worked . i live in Mass 30min south of boston and 15min north of plymouth rock so it can get cold in the gradge . i hope this helps with some of the problems . and please dont give up it truly is an amasing machine.
Here is an old thread which speaks to the light as a heat source.
AskBud
http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?14139-Carver-gets-too-cold&p=117570#post117570

[Tom75]

thank you Bud when i wrote the reply i could not rember who posted it . it does work for me well when it is very cold in the gradge . again thank you for sharring what you did to help make the temp. for the cw to be useable in the cold times .

[Kazuale]

I cut a window for better access. Nothing looked loose or broken. I replaced the sensor teh sensor lens because it was full of sawdust, yellow, and had a scratch on it. The machine worked the first time without any hitches. I tried it a second time and couldn't even get a sensor reading. I don't really want to take the lens apart each time, any suggestions?

[Ike]

I would check to see that the wires are still connected and it is not recommend by LHR, but I removed the plastic cover and have not had a problem since. Others will argue the lens can not be scratched, but they can!

Ike

[Kazuale]

Did you take the entire black cover off? Did you have to cut it off?

[Ike]

Did you take the entire black cover off? Did you have to cut it off?

I took off just the lens part, I was able to pull it off with my fingers. I can't remember if whole black cover. Remember before somebody post the comment, "it is not recommended to remove the cover" Ok that said, I took mine off over a year ago and it is still going strong! So if the lens includes the black cover then remove it all and when you do you see the two eyes.

Ike