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View Full Version : Aligning carving on work piece, where will it actually cut?



Jeff_Birt
12-17-2006, 09:05 AM
After the machine measures board width, finds the left edge and checks the length, you are presented with three choices for aligning the cut: Center, Left, and Jog.

If you jog to a certain position on you work piece, does the machine condier that position on the X-axis to be the left (it carves upside down as viewed from control panel) edge of your board diminsion (as drawn in Designer). Also, if you jog the Y-axis too (given a wide enough work piece) is the carving shifted in the Y-Axis as well?

Inquiring minds want to know :?:

pkunk
12-17-2006, 09:25 AM
Jeff, I hope I'm answering what you need to know. The jog position is adjustable with the arrows to both positions, in inches. The board moves to where you want to start as you make the adjustments.

Jeff_Birt
12-17-2006, 10:25 AM
Thanks pkunk, while I realize that you can indeed move the board (X-axis) and head (Y-Axis) to desired position, I'm not usre of what this position actually is. In other words, if I jog to a certain point does the machine consider that the top-left corner of the carving, or more precisly, the top-left corner of the workpiece as layed out in Designer? Is it sort of like, in CNC terms, a local zero?

pkunk
12-17-2006, 10:33 AM
It'll jog to right under the cut head. Try it.

Matthew
12-17-2006, 11:23 AM
Jeff,
When you're looking at the control panel and jog to a position, that position will be the lower right portion of the carving. It will start carving at that point and then carve to the left, back toward the beginning (left end) of the board. In the other dimension, it starts at that point and carves away from the control panel.
As for which part of the carving is positioned at that point, I believe the carving is flipped from the way you view it in the software. I believe that what you see in the software as the upper left cornerin the front view of the board becomes the lower right when the carving is actually done by the hardware.
A simplified, text-based view of the corner points in the software:

A1 A2
B1 B2

will actually be carved on the board (when viewed from the keypad) as:

B2 B1
A2 A1

When you jog to position, you're setting the location on the board at corner A1 of your carving.

Hopefully, this is slightly clearer than mud!

Matthew

Jeff_Birt
12-17-2006, 02:50 PM
Yes, thanks. You were quite clear. I thought this might be an important point to have clear in my mind when trying to create a jig for smaller pieces or trying two sided stuff (trying to get the two sides registered).

Thanks again everyone for your help!

Dan-Woodman
12-17-2006, 03:36 PM
I find it easier to cut your board bigger until you find out where it carves and then cut it to finished size.
Another thing you can do is use MDF board its cheep.

Matthew
12-17-2006, 05:16 PM
The added 3.5" is to keep the end of the board under the rollers. If you answer yes to "Keep under rollers", then the board will need an extra 3.5" at each end, so if your carving is 5" long and you want it kept under both sets of rollers at all times, then you'll actually need a board that is 12" long. If you use a long board and answer yes to keep under rollers and then allow the carvewright to position the project on the end rather than in the middle, you'll see that the carving begins about 3.5" to 4" from the end of the board.
That 3.5" is roughly the distance from the cutting bit to the center of the rollers.

To continue this thread, I'll ask what experiences others have had with not keeping the board under the rollers. Is there a general rule of thumb for when a project should be kept under the rollers and when it's safe not to keep it under both sets of rollers?

pkunk
12-17-2006, 05:34 PM
To continue this thread, I'll ask what experiences others have had with not keeping the board under the rollers. Is there a general rule of thumb for when a project should be kept under the rollers and when it's safe not to keep it under both sets of rollers?
For signs with centerline or outline text in the 14 - 30" range, Ill frequently cut the board just a few inches longer overall and choose not to stay under rollers. For carvings, no...have the extra length or you'll get a ridge.

Dan-Woodman
12-17-2006, 09:11 PM
Kurtsara
MDF finishs very well with poly or stain or laquior.
Also carves very well except for small details which tend to breakout , but its great for trying out new designs and patterns.
I've never noticed any snipe or ridge because of not staying under the rollers.

pkunk
12-17-2006, 09:27 PM
Kurtsara

I've never noticed any snipe or ridge because of not staying under the rollers.
Dan, I have on numerous occasions, and subsequent carvings with the extra wood solved the problem. Maybe your machine is better than mine. :D

Dan-Woodman
12-17-2006, 09:34 PM
Hey pkunk
I wonder if there is any adjustments for that.

CW Rookie
12-18-2006, 05:50 AM
I find it easier to cut your board bigger until you find out where it carves and then cut it to finished size.
Another thing you can do is use MDF board its cheep.

Cheap, but hopefully all are taking precautions for the potentially hazardous dust created when working with MDF -
http://www.design-technology.org/mdf.htm