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richardp
11-09-2010, 06:42 PM
Im new to wood carving and need help I purchased the eagle clock project using 3/4" oak,I carved the front of clock with not problem started the back and about half way through the cutout for the clock movement the 1/8" bit broke just below the adaptor. I have watched the videos and tried to read all of the tips checked the head pressure andeverything I could think of and I know I missed a lot. I decided to reduce the cut pass depth, clicked on edit cut out and checked box max pass depth, the value box turns red it will accept the number I put in, the accept box is not highlighted and clicking ok it will not save the number I entered. I do not know wht I'm doing wrong. I have about 20 hours on the machine.

Thanks for the help

dbfletcher
11-09-2010, 06:58 PM
Can you post a picture of the board you actually carved? That should give us many insight in to what probably went wrong.

Digitalwoodshop
11-09-2010, 11:07 PM
So I am thinking you have a Carve Region for the Clock Recess Area and it is RASTER CARVING it.... AND expects you to use the 1/16th Carving Bit... YOU install the 1/8 inch Cutting Bit (WRONG BIT) that cannot stand the quick side motion cutting and it snaps off....

Now if you made a bunch of VECTOR Lines to have the 1/8 inch Cutting Bit or even the 3/8 inch end mill bit, you could cut the recessed area for a clock.

I make a bunch of clocks.... I only did one clock cutting the hole in the back with the Machine...

It is much simpler to do the clock front and have it drill a .35 hole THROUGH with the 1/8 inch Cutting Bit then in a Drill Press use the 3.25 Bit from Clock Kit to cut the recess area.

And I am with Ask Bud here and the appropriate thing to do is ask you to post your .mpc as long as it does not have any PAY artwork on it. It is not nice to post PAY ART that does not have the Serial Number Protection and take money from the Designers Pocket in the forum of future sales...

Look at this picture I sent to another new Clock Builder... I suggest you buy this as it makes installing clock works easier.

AL

Edit: Just saw this is your first post.... WELCOME !!!!!!! Now please read Tips and Tricks on the CarveWright Website. Lots of good info to help you understand the machine. It helps with what we call Pilot Error....

mtylerfl
11-10-2010, 07:49 AM
Im new to wood carving and need help I purchased the eagle clock project using 3/4" oak,I carved the front of clock with not problem started the back and about half way through the cutout for the clock movement the 1/8" bit broke just below the adaptor. I have watched the videos and tried to read all of the tips checked the head pressure andeverything I could think of and I know I missed a lot. I decided to reduce the cut pass depth, clicked on edit cut out and checked box max pass depth, the value box turns red it will accept the number I put in, the accept box is not highlighted and clicking ok it will not save the number I entered. I do not know wht I'm doing wrong. I have about 20 hours on the machine.

Thanks for the help

Hello Richard,

Very sorry to hear about the bit breakage.

I'm not sure why the Max Pass won't allow you to enter a new value - it should. If you can get it to work, I suggest a value of 0.3" for the Max Pass. That will make the bit take three shallow passes to cut through the board. Should be fine for your Oak. Some folks specify even shallower depths, but that really shouldn't be necessary.

Often, bit breakage occurs because the board inserted in the machine is too short. Just asking - did you place a board into the machine at the length specified in the instructions? (If not, the board can tip slightly when it leaves one of the pressure rollers and cause the bit to break.)

Please let us know how you make out.

Digitalwoodshop
11-10-2010, 10:27 AM
Im new to wood carving and need help I purchased the eagle clock project using 3/4" oak,I carved the front of clock with not problem started the back and about half way through the cutout for the clock movement the 1/8" bit broke just below the adaptor. I have watched the videos and tried to read all of the tips checked the head pressure andeverything I could think of and I know I missed a lot. I decided to reduce the cut pass depth, clicked on edit cut out and checked box max pass depth, the value box turns red it will accept the number I put in, the accept box is not highlighted and clicking ok it will not save the number I entered. I do not know wht I'm doing wrong. I have about 20 hours on the machine.

Thanks for the help

Well I tried setting up a carve region then tried to select the bit to change to a 1/8 inch and the bit is not illuminated. So it looks like I am wrong on that....

So posting your mpc would let us see how you did it.

CSI ASK BUD your presents is requested....

AL

mtylerfl
11-10-2010, 10:37 AM
Hi AL,

The MPC is a commercial project (the Wilderness Eagle Clock), so it cannot be viewed without it being licensed by the person trying to open it, unfortunately.

The Cut Paths are set at full-depth pass by default in the project. I can change the Max Pass on my master copy of the project, and the user should be able to as well. For some reason, Richard is having trouble on that and I don't know why.

My thinking is that the cut out should have worked anyway, even at full-depth. Perhaps board too short, support trays off adjustment, the wood was "too hard", or the kerf was closing as the cut was being performed at full-depth, or a momentary tracking issue caused stress on the bit. Hard to say - we can only make a few educated guesses, for now.

Hopefully, we'll figure it out and help Richard avoid broken bits in the future!

dbfletcher
11-10-2010, 10:52 AM
I would still like to see some photos of the actual carved board. That way we can verify the the 7" rule was followed and also if there is significant bit wobble which is a common problem for bit breakage.

mtylerfl
11-10-2010, 11:06 AM
I would still like to see some photos of the actual carved board. That way we can verify the the 7" rule was followed and also if there is significant bit wobble which is a common problem for bit breakage.

Yes, a photo would be very helpful. You're right, an uneven/rough kerf could indicate bit wobble and/or tracking issues. I'm making a bet with myself that the board was too short - but, I might LOSE that bet! We won't know until we see a photo or hear back from Richard when he has the chance.

Digitalwoodshop
11-10-2010, 11:48 AM
O' a Professional Project... That changes things.... I was thinking it was his own design.... The Purchased Eagle Project just went over my head..... I was thinking a Eagle pattern and a hand made design.....

Full Depth in Oak.... Yep... $40.00 Thank You !!!!

AL

richardp
11-12-2010, 07:18 PM
First Thanks for all of the help and input. One of the problems I might have had between the front carving and the back carving I changed the 0 rings on the brass roller I replace the two that was on the roller I read the only one is used and removed the other one and left the inner one on the grove in the roller I also did a complete cleaning of the QC chuck and oil it I had trouble removing it when I broke the bit also I added masking tape to the bottom of the work piece and used a business card to set the guide fence. I started the carving again had no problems with the new bit. I now believe it is all about reading and learning the machine. And the forum group is a wealth of information Thank you all for the help Richard.

fwharris
11-12-2010, 10:48 PM
First Thanks for all of the help and input. One of the problems I might have had between the front carving and the back carving I changed the 0 rings on the brass roller I replace the two that was on the roller I read the only one is used and removed the other one and left the inner one on the grove in the roller I also did a complete cleaning of the QC chuck and oil it I had trouble removing it when I broke the bit also I added masking tape to the bottom of the work piece and used a business card to set the guide fence. I started the carving again had no problems with the new bit.
I now believe it is all about reading and learning the machine. And the forum group is a wealth of information Thank you all for the help Richard.

Richard,

Glad you are back to carving!

Yes you are correct in learning as much as you can about the machine, designer and how they interact with each other. The best learning aid is the monthly tips and tricks (http://www.carvewright.com/2010CWweb/tips.htm) and the best way to figure out a problem or issue is the forum. Also don't forget to read the manual! Get familiar with the steps the machine goes through for starting a project or operation. Keeping a good and correct cleaning/lube routine is also a key to success with the machine.

If you put this all together it should take about 10 good carves to get your fill of standing there watching the cutting head go back and forth back and forth back and forth back and forth!

Happy carving!!