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View Full Version : Burnt My Flex Shaft Up Today?????



lpj1019
11-04-2010, 04:38 PM
Hey Guys,

I was running a 5 hour project today, like usual I loaded the machine up, inserted the bit, turned on the dust collector and closed the door.

At the end of the estimated time, I returned to find the plastic coating on the flex shaft melted off, and the flex shaft itself was discolored and looked burnt.....I know what you thinking, "well you dumb ***, you need to maintain your machine".....LOL.....but I did?

About 30 hours back, I broke the machine down and gave it a real good cleaning......and for the flexshaft, I pulled the cable out and I let it soak over night in some Liquid Wrench Chain Oil (with Moly).....I wiped it down so the Moly wouldn't run down into the chuck because they say it may ruin the bearings, etc.

SO I'M CURIOUS.......WHAT DO YOU GUYS USE FOR YOUR FLEX SHAFT TO KEEP THE HEAT DOWN???????

I thought I was good.....but apparently the Liquid Wrench Brand isn't very good.

Thanks
Paul

Frederick_P
11-04-2010, 04:57 PM
Mine runs pretty close to room temperature. A little warm, but no where near hot. The thing is that the spring is metal and therefore not porous, so you could let it sit all week and the lube won't "soak in" The moly part of the lube is like tiny little ball bearings. They need to get in between the spring coils. I lay my flex shaft down on a piece of sandwich wrap plastic and spray it liberally. Then, I fold the plastic over so that the shaft is encased in lube and I work it into the shaft by flexing it around and pushing the lube into the crevices. I don't wipe it off but then install it as is into the sheath.

Heat can also be transferred to the shaft by the motor or the z-truck. Make sure they are not getting hot. Also ensure that the shaft has no tight bends in it when it enters the machine.

Sorry to hear about your bad luck. At least the repair is cheaper than a lot of the other parts.

lpj1019
11-04-2010, 07:04 PM
Hi Fred.....yes, the carving was completed and the replacement shaft with tax and shipping was only $83.....I think I just need to monitor a bit closer, work the shaft lube in better and from some of the other posts, maybe invest in a infared thermostat.....lesson learned.....lol

fwharris
11-04-2010, 07:17 PM
Paul,

I agree with Frederick in that the lube needs to be worked into the flex shaft for best results.

I've changed over to CranCam Lube w/molly.

Description Part No.

Two 1-ounce packages

99002-1

1-pound container

99004-1
Description Part No.

4-ounce container
99008-1
It is a paste that I apply with my finger tips. There are many posts about it on the forum. Some auto parts stores might have it or might order it for you. If you shops (high end) that do re builds they might have it or will order it for you. That is how/where I got mine.

CarverJerry
11-04-2010, 08:07 PM
Ya know what I do is when I soak my shaft I use a coffee container, one of those plastic ones put about 1/4 can of the liquid wrench/moly and coil up the shaft in the coffee container. I feel this way the spring like coil is sorta opened up some what, I let it soak for an hour or so, wipe it off then hang it over night. My flex shaft doesn't get warm, don't have one of those IR therm. gagets but I feel it ever now and then while its running it is always stayed cool. I usually do this about ever 15-20 hours. May be an over kill but it's a cheap PM operation.

CJ

TerryT
11-04-2010, 08:47 PM
Ya know what I do is when I soak my shaft I use a coffee container, one of those plastic ones put about 1/4 can of the liquid wrench/moly and coil up the shaft in the coffee container. I feel this way the spring like coil is sorta opened up some what, I let it soak for an hour or so, wipe it off then hang it over night. My flex shaft doesn't get warm, don't have one of those IR therm. gagets but I feel it ever now and then while its running it is always stayed cool. I usually do this about ever 15-20 hours. May be an over kill but it's a cheap PM operation.

CJ

Exactly, Winding the shaft inside the coffee can opens it up so the lube can penetrate. I used to do mine regularly, I have not needed to do it for a couple of years now. Even on 6 or 7 hour carves it doesn't get even warm.

Digitalwoodshop
11-04-2010, 10:31 PM
I am thinking that it is LESS about the lubrication and MORE about a kinked damper SPRING..... The Spring in my machine got kinked last August.... Machine was sitting in the sun on my deck as I was doing a repair. When I went to attach the flex, It was HOT and like a wet noodle.... I flipped it up and grabbed the head with a little more vigor than I should have.... The Sun had made the rubber soft.... In the process I had kinked the spring.... a few minutes into the next carve, I am out on my deck sanding and I hear the smoke detector go off in the shop above the machine. I look and see black smoke as the outside of the rubber is melting.....

So it was my fault.... Damaged the spring... Metal to metal..... The Spinning Shaft made the FIRE.....

So with that.... It might not have been a lubrication problem......

AL

Smoken D
11-05-2010, 09:25 AM
Well, here is my latest expirence. The last flex shaft assembly replaced no matter what I did was always running hot. Every 2 hours of carve would have to exchange the core for another one. Would even at times exchange the spring along with the core and 2 hours later would be running real hot. Every new core had been treated prior to usage. Assembly seemed fine and attached to cut motor as it should be. Finally on a 15 hour carve and exchanging core/spring every two hours, at the last two hours of carve melted the plastic coating. So, ordered another assembly and guess what. Hasn't heated over 81 degrees even on the last 6 hour carve without exchanging anything. I am going with a bad assembly from the very beginning that I got from LHR. During the bad one I even disconnected the assembly, ran a cleaning rod with patch through it, and still ran hot. I think inside was bad tollerance and just got a bad assembly. So they got nearly $200 again. Can be tough some times, part of working with machines.

Icutone2
11-05-2010, 09:47 AM
Like CJ posted I do the same except I let it set over night and then hang it overnight wipe it and go. Runs a little over ambient temp.
Lee

lpj1019
11-05-2010, 04:35 PM
I think I like the thought of using a paste more than a spray.....I did have the spring coiled with the hope of the spray lube penatrating more.....I was just surprised......on the other hand, it could had been caused by me when I reinstalled the spring, maybe I caused it to bind and just wasn't aware.....but regardless.......thanks for all the comments.

Paul