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View Full Version : Help in understanding what machine does once carving is done



Loriblackdog
10-19-2010, 07:36 AM
Well, I am back and I finally got to turn on my machine & tried to do the project 1, the shell pattern with the fillagese and now I have a couple of questions, 1 how do I attach my project so anyone who might be willing to help me would be able to see what I might be doing wrong. It did a great job carving, but I did not like the way it cut my board after? Is there a way to bypass this feature? Also my husband states when he tried to crank up the head there was some resistance, likewise when cranking down it clicks likes its down, sometimes it takes 2 or 3 times to get it to go down? Is that normal? Should I fit to scale, asking due to when final cut was done it went into the patten and cut the top & bottom off.

regarding the menu options is there good documentation on items come up so I know what to choose?
I am very excited that I was able to do the first project but need a little help. Thank you all in advance I welome all comments

DickB
10-19-2010, 07:55 AM
To attach a project, click on Go Advanced when making a reply to this post, then click on Manage Attachments. Cranking the head up and down can probably be fixed by lubricating the vertical corner posts and the clutch. Look here, pages 2 and 6:
http://www.carvewright.com/2010CWweb/service/Service_instructions/CarveWright_service_adjust_head_pressure.pdf
There is not good documentation on menu options in my opinion. Some things are covered in the manuals, but not all. Ask questions here.

cnsranch
10-19-2010, 09:05 AM
Well, I am back and I finally got to turn on my machine & tried to do the project 1, the shell pattern with the fillagese and now I have a couple of questions, 1 how do I attach my project so anyone who might be willing to help me would be able to see what I might be doing wrong. It did a great job carving, but I did not like the way it cut my board after? Is there a way to bypass this feature? Also my husband states when he tried to crank up the head there was some resistance, likewise when cranking down it clicks likes its down, sometimes it takes 2 or 3 times to get it to go down? Is that normal? Should I fit to scale, asking due to when final cut was done it went into the patten and cut the top & bottom off.

regarding the menu options is there good documentation on items come up so I know what to choose?
I am very excited that I was able to do the first project but need a little help. Thank you all in advance I welome all comments

Hi, Lori (hope that's right)

1st Q re cutting the board

Not sure which Q you're asking - if your asking about the machine cutting the board to size, tell it "no" when setting up the project in the machine.
If you're indicating that the machine is cutting OUT the pattern, eliminate the cut out in Designer. (Seeing your mpc will help).
2nd Q re head cranking - Dick's right about lubing, but you want to make sure you're using the red locking handle properly. Designed to make sure the head doesn't "move" during a carve, when the handle's out, the head's locked in position, when it's "in", head's free to be cranked. Just make sure it's either completely "out", or completely "in".

Q #3 re "scaling" - read the Tips and Tricks and make sure you're following the "7" Rule".

I look forward to seeing your mpc.

Loriblackdog
10-19-2010, 09:31 AM
don't laugh at me, I am trying. Maybe I could get some hints on what I am doing wrong. My husband has tried everything on the head going up and down, has lubricated everything he needed to, any other suggestions?

DickB
10-19-2010, 10:01 AM
OK, thanks for posting the project. Now we need to know what size board did you load, and do you remember how you answered the questions such as your response to Stay Under Rollers? If not, load a similar sze board and go through the steps again, recording your answers. You don't have to actually start the project; stop when you are prompted to load the carving bit.

I really suspect a cleaning/lubrication issue regarding the head movement. In addition to the clutch and posts, there are two lead screws on either end of the machine that could be dirty. I just went through this myself yesterday with the exact same symptoms. The best suggestion I have is to follow the instructions in the maintenance document to the letter.

cnsranch
10-19-2010, 12:35 PM
Here's what you got -

The board size you have in Designer is 12" l x 5.5" w. If you look at the pic below, the carve is actually over the edges and ends of the board.

If you use a board that's at least 7" longer (i.e., 19") you're ok on the length, but you still have a problem with the width.

If you use a board that's 19" l, and at least, say, 6" w, you'd be ok.

If the board you're using is only 12" l, when the machine asks you if you want to stay under the rollers, and you tell it "yes" it will scale the project - it needs that extra 3.5" of uncarved board on each end to do that. If you tell it "no", it will carve to the end, but you will likely see the board tip after it leaves the roller, and will mess up your carve.

If you're using a board that you've measured to be 5.5", but the machine measures it anything less in width, you'll get the scaling issue come up again, and that's bad - I don't know when scaling would be a good idea - always messes up your project - maybe it's there just so you can do the carve, but you won't like it.

You're always better off with your project being carved no closer than 1/4-1/2" from each edge, and remember the 7" Rule.

Finally, after the machine measures your board, it will ask you if you want it to "cut board to size" - answer "no". If you answer "yes", it will cut off part of the pattern, exactly like the ends that are cut off in the pic below.

So, here's the plan - find a board that's about 20" long, and about 7" or so wide. Put the card in the machine, turn the machine on, go to the project menu, select this project, press enter, it will ask you to load the board. Do so (making sure to put a couple thicknesses of masking tape under the edge of the board that's closest to the keypad), lower the head till it clicks a few times (I always lay my right arm on the top of the machine to give it just a tad weight while cranking it down), pull out the red handle, hit enter, the machine will measure the board, it will find it to be bigger than what's designed (that's ok), it will ask you if you want to center the project on the board, say "yes", it will ask if you want to cut board to length, say "no", it will then ask you to select the 1/8" carving bit, press "enter", it will ask you to load that bit, do so, it will then go thru the process of finding the bit, the board's surface, etc., and then it will spin up, and you can watch it carve your masterpiece.

Do it just that way - when you're finished, you'll see things that you would like to be better, or you will see where you may have saved some wood, etc. BUT, you will have succesfully carved your first project, and it will feel fantastic!!!!

AND, don't forget to post pictures.

Good luck.

Ike
10-19-2010, 12:59 PM
You didn't mention if you checked the red locking lever like Jerry pointed out. If it is out the head is locked and even though it is out the head will still move, but with resistance. It is like a planer the head lock is so the head stays in place during operation.

Another thing the head may be not level, the way I check mine is I use 2 four foot levels and place one on each side and lower the head until it touches the levels. Then I see if both levels are secure or if one will slide. If one side is really loose then the head is not level. Now how to fix this? Ok this is what I do and it works!

I use 4 foot levels for 2 reasons to check the head and to level the out feed tables with the middle table. But when adjusting the head the 4 foot levels need to be removed and replaced with 2 boards the same width and the length of the middle or main table. Why because you will be setting your machine on it's side to be able to access the bottom panel.

There are several screws and remove them by hand and carefully. These screws are strip very easily. Another tip place the screws in a cup so you will not lose them! Once you have removed the panel you will see a rod called the tie rod that connects the crank side (left) to the right side so that when you raise and lower the head both side move. You will see can disconnect the rod so that you can hand adjust each side. Once you remove the tie rod place the machine upright and adjust the higher side. I found in most cases it is the right side opposite of the crank and to adjust that side find the adjusting hole in the threaded rod. Use a tool small enough to fit the hole and adjust that side down until the pressure is the same on each side. Then replace tie rod and panel and do a head pressure check using a bathroom scale.

Another thought came to mind, what is the temperature of your shop when you are trying to raise the head? I am asking because if it is cold under 60 degrees the head will not work properly. If you don't want to warm the shop a quick easy way to warm your machine is put a hair dryer inside and let it warm up and see if it cranks better.

Ike