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View Full Version : Carving large sign in sections, is my approach possible?



kevspearl
09-22-2010, 09:18 AM
I want to create a large applicique from one of the patterns. The measurement for the final area is 36 inches by 60 inches. Since the CarveWright machine can only handle boards which are 14 inches wide, creating a carved surface of 12 inches, allowing for an inch on each side of the carving. I decided to divide the pattern into three sections of 12 inches each. The length of the carve can be adjusted by adding 3.5 inches to both sides. In theory this should work. However, when I use the design software to create my carved sections I have to increase the pattern size to fit the section I wish to carve. I don't know if the machine will accept this project. My thoughts include choosing a manual jig when storring the pattern on my card.
My question is am I on the right track? Is there a better way to attack this project?

gwhiz
09-22-2010, 09:43 AM
Here's a way to approach your sign...

http://www.carvewright.com/2010CWweb...icks_Jul09.pdf

kevspearl
09-22-2010, 02:35 PM
Gwhiz,
I tried to link to the web address above and was not able to do you have another suggestion about how I can get this information

lynnfrwd
09-22-2010, 02:42 PM
Here is the full link: http://www.carvewright.com/2010CWweb/downloads/tips/CarveWrightTips&Tricks_Jul09.pdf

It truncated mine too, but I think it works. If not, go to www.carvewright.com then click on the LEARN menu - then TIPS & TRICKS on left hand side menu. It is July of 2009 Issue called "My Big Sign - A Personal Account"

kevspearl
09-22-2010, 02:55 PM
Please disregard my last message. I was able to locate the pdf file above. Thank you for the link. I will post my results.

TIMCOSBY
09-22-2010, 08:32 PM
i your able to have the greyscale png of the pattern there is a free program called photoscape and it has a tiling routine that will cut the png into however many files you need.

kevspearl
09-23-2010, 08:28 PM
I am curious to know if I need to build a sled to carve a 12 inch wide board. I know the machine will adjust if I use the board alone. I want to make a large sign in two sections.

cnsranch
09-24-2010, 09:03 AM
I am curious to know if I need to build a sled to carve a 12 inch wide board.

Nope........

AskBud
09-24-2010, 09:20 AM
I am curious to know if I need to build a sled to carve a 12 inch wide board. I know the machine will adjust if I use the board alone. I want to make a large sign in two sections.
The answer could be YES or NO.
It will depend upon whether I have a un carved outer surface.
If I do not mill/carve the outer surface, the answer could be "NO".
If I mill the board from top to bottom, leaving no raised surface, the tracking will be lost. Therefore, the answer may be "YES, I need a sled".

In my "Download" link below, I have a lesson on "Milling a Special Sign".
It does not speak to over sized designs, but it does reflect the problem of "No un carved/recessed outer surface".

If in doubt, a sled may always be a good choice!
AskBud

kevspearl
09-29-2010, 08:23 AM
I apologize for not being on top of this conversation. To date I have been able to carve my two sections for my carving. My test pattern called for my to glue two 7 inch boards together to make a 14 inch board. I used this 14 inch board as my test carve. My first test was in pine. I completed the carve but was not happy with my results. My pattern did not have detail and looked washed out. I finished the project and am considering a thicker board using a deeper cut. My initial depth was 0.5 on a 0.75 thick board. I am not happy with how it turned out. My next step was to consider using a thicker board. I choose Douglas Furr and my board was 1.5 inches thick and I choose a depth of 0.7, because 0.8 was too deep and the machine would not allow me to do the project. Nevertheless, I ran into some big problems here because my flexshaft started to heat up and the outer coating melted. I have a new flexshaft on order but did not know what I did wrong? Everything worked great with the Pine and things went hay wire when I started working with a thicker and different wood. Are there different peramaters for thicker and higher density woods? I did like the pattern as it was developing, even though I only cut an inch before my flex shaft went out.

kevspearl
09-29-2010, 08:38 AM
Hi Bud,
I sincerely appreciate your response to my question. My experience level is developing and I am dreaming on one day being able to work in the areas you are talking about. To date my project only calls for creating a carving. I am not milling the board or creating anything fancy. I am trying to create a carved shell which I want to apply to a door as decoration. The machine I am working with has one cutting blade and one carving blade. To date I have only been able to figure out how to use the carving blade. I hope to grow and use the other features of the machine. I would love to build a sled to eliminate the top and bottom of my board but I want to do this for a thicker piece of wood. How do I do this? How thick can I carve and does the insert board have to be flush with the top and the bottom? I am not sure if the surface must be continuous to have a continuous run. I look forward to viewing your lesson. Thank you for your encouragement!

kevspearl
09-29-2010, 08:55 AM
Bud,
I tried to download your video lesson and was not able to view it. I guess my computer is too old. Do you have it posted on you tube?

gwhiz
09-29-2010, 10:51 AM
Nevertheless, I ran into some big problems here because my flexshaft started to heat up and the outer coating melted. I have a new flexshaft on order but did not know what I did wrong? Everything worked great with the Pine and things went hay wire when I started working with a thicker and different wood. Are there different peramaters for thicker and higher density woods? I did like the pattern as it was developing, even though I only cut an inch before my flex shaft went out.

Your flexshaft needs to be lubed, not necessarily replaced. I melted the outer coating from mine, but caught it before other damage was done. Lubed the shaft and it's been working fine since. It's a lot easier to tell now when it's heating up 'cause you're touching metal directly! If you replace it, lube the old one and keep it as a backup.

As for the wood, I carved a sign in 14"x5'x1.5" cypress (a bit denser than Fir) without problem. There shouldn't be an issue with carving Fir, especially only a 1" into the carve.

kevspearl
09-29-2010, 03:00 PM
Thanks I will Take the cable out and lubricate it and see what happens. In salvaging your flexshaft did you recoat or re insulate the cable housing? I was thinking about covering the exposed cable housing.