Very complex carve, lots of pieces... How do I add Tabs to prevent part walking?

[pmcpa]

I'm doing a very complex carve for a model. The lines in white shown are full .25" depth cuts (2x .25" thick pieces to make total depth .5 to make machine happy)

Just tried to run this for the first time, and it cut the large boxes out at the top of the screen first, then tried to make all the small cuts... needless to say the MDF walked all over the place.

How do I add tabs to these lines to prevent the pieces from becoming loose? "Tabs" is grayed out.....

38358

[Digitalwoodshop]

You need to pick each closed loop element and make it a cut path. Using the element list on the left would make it easier to pick. Remember if the element is not a closed loop then it will not allow a cut path. Use the connect tool in the line tracing to grab a non connected node and move it over the node to connect.

I do a sheet of plastic tags without tabs using strips of double stick tape and a carrier board. I will be building a vacuum jig soon.

AL

[JLT]

I seem to recall reading somewhere (although I just now couldn't find it in the software manual) that the cuts will be performed in the order that they appear in the Carving List toolbar. (The Carving List can be manually manipulated). That being said, based on my experience, the actual cut sequence still appears to group all carvings / cuts by bit. Thus, I believe you can order your cuts such that the large boxes are cut last. Again, though, you still need to tie them down somehow or another. I've done a lot of cuts without tabs, but use double sided carpet tape, which is super sticky and very thin. Also, beware of the "Cut Path" tool, as it is not as accurate as simply cutting a path that you've directly drawn...

[pmcpa]

Tried to move the big cuts to the end... it ignores this.... maybe because it's in "Auto Jig"?

[dbfletcher]

Also, beware of the "Cut Path" tool, as it is not as accurate as simply cutting a path that you've directly drawn...

Really? Can others confirm that? I've never really had an issues with using the cutpath function. I've been pretty happy with it.

[JLT]

Doug,

Take a look at my post in the following thread... http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?12100-Cut-Path-question&highlight=accurate. For exacting work, the cut path doesn't do the machine justice, and pmcpa's project looked as though it has a lot of tight cuts...

Jon

[dbfletcher]

Doug,

Take a look at my post in the following thread... http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?12100-Cut-Path-question&highlight=accurate. For exacting work, the cut path doesn't do the machine justice, and pmcpa's project looked as though it has a lot of tight cuts...

Jon

Thanks for the reminder.. i do recall that thread too. I was thinking that it was resolved thou. I could be wrong.

[JLT]

Tried to move the big cuts to the end... it ignores this.... maybe because it's in "Auto Jig"?

pmcpa,

My apologies... did some searching on the forum, and found the following (a bit dated) which explains the logic behind the sequencing: http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?6699-Carve-list-carve-order&highlight=carving%20order. Somehow the pure cut and drill projects that I've been doing lately appear to have some semblance of control, but I haven't really had a hard need like you to truly sequence the cuts, so now believe I fooled myself into thinking I had some partial control over the cut order!

Jon

[JLT]

Thanks for the reminder.. i do recall that thread too. I was thinking that it was resolved thou. I could be wrong.

Pure conjecture on my part, but I'd bet that the algorithm to generate the cut path converts the shape to a high resolution raster, and then traces the figure. It doesn't appear to do the math and ray tracing to calculate the vertices... I actually have another small flat bed CNC router that I was holding onto thinking that the CW wasn't that exacting, but now that I've determined it's the software and not the machine, the other CNC is collecting dust...

[pmcpa]

I will be building a vacuum jig soon.

AL

Yoa, your gonna need to send the plains for that down the Delaware to me!

[Digitalwoodshop]

I am going to use a piece of 1 x 12 PVC board and cut out slots in the board and a air tube out the end. I will spray the inside with poly to seal the pores. Using a replaceable hardboard top on the carrier board. I will then use the CW to drill a hole or two under the position of the tag location using the artwork. Apply the vacuum from a veneer pump I bought and rig it thought the cut motor switch with a vacuum switch to open the cover circuit if there is a loss of vacuum.

Change hardboard tops for each different tag design.

AL