Oh i can"t wait!!!

[Ike]

Today is the day I get my new CW!!!! My Rev B old faithful needed a new Y motor and I ordered one, but also went through Amazon.com and bought a new what I hope and think will be the Rev C CW! Proved my point to my wife that selling the refurbished CC was not a wise move! I am glad I did though I am getting a new CW! Although the CC was new and was sold as a refurbished model I am so excited to get the Rev C!

I just hope I am not disappointed if it is not a Rev C. I don't see why it wouldn't be though I checked and I was told sometimes Amazon has the CW shipped from LHR, plus the last lot they ordered were C models.

Wow I am so excited, I need to sign for it and my fair starts today at 11:00 am so I hope I get it before I leave! I need to lube the flex cable and want to start on my big sign order for a local dentist! I found some very nice dry S4S 2" redwood and I don't want any errors!.

I have been tracking the package through UPS and it doesn't say where it came from except the seller the it went to Arizona that is ok I am in California, but then went to Kentucky! I think they took a wrong turn at Albuquerque!

I can't wait!!!!

Ike

[dbfletcher]

I wonder if the whole "lube flexshaft" thing need to be revisited. I remember a post a few months ago (I think an MT post but not sure), about how LHR was now using a dry micro graphite lube that they felt was better then even the Moly lube we've been using for a while. There was a comment about that was why so many people thought they were gettting an unlubricted flexshaft, becuase it felt dry. Anyone else remember this? Is it still a best practice to lube flexshaft on a new machine if in fact LHR has switched the preferred lubrication again? In the meantime I will try to find the original post again.

Just some food for thought.

[Kenm810]

Ike, --- I know Exactly how you feel ----- :wink:

[Ike]

Thanks Doug, I guess I am in old school mode! This is the 5th machine I have purchased, lol when my Y motor went out on my Rev B CW I thought no biggie I have a part machine..... Rev A and it has the old Y motor with the large end cap! DOPE! So hopefully it will say if it needs lubed, otherwise moly lube is going on the flex!

Ike

[Ike]

Ken I love it and it looks like I will be in the 7 pm window! Any other UPS package comes in the morning, since I CAN" WAIT! it will be the last delivery!

Ike

[Ike]

Well I got my new machine and it is a Rev C! I am not too sure about the carvetight, it is nosier then my Rock. But the sign I made came out great, the Z truck was hot though. The flex cable was ok and I did moly lube it. The other thing is I need a 60 degree bit and 90 I can't use my bits anymore like I can with my Rock! I like the chuck don't get me wrong I am just stuck now without the other bits!

I hope my Y motor gets here quick so I can fix my other CW! I am excited to have 2 again!

Ike

[dbfletcher]

Well I got my new machine and it is a Rev C! I am not too sure about the carvetight, it is nosier then my Rock. But the sign I made came out great, the Z truck was hot though. The flex cable was ok and I did moly lube it. The other thing is I need a 60 degree bit and 90 I can't use my bits anymore like I can with my Rock! I like the chuck don't get me wrong I am just stuck now without the other bits!

I hope my Y motor gets here quick so I can fix my other CW! I am excited to have 2 again!

Ike

That does bring up something I've been wondering. We know that Ron had said the RC is nearly perfectly balanced... does anyone know what the tolerances of the CT balance are? (static and dynamic) We have heard several CT users say it was quieter then the QC, but not by much... and many rock users found a great drop in sound when they switched.

btw.. was it a dry lube? I never did find that post so maybe I imagined it. But I'm pretty sure I DO remember reading a post along those lines.

[Ike]

Doug, it did appear to have something on the flex and I let it go for a somewhat long carve(over 2 hours) Then the Z truck was so hot you could not touch it for very long, the flex was warm,but not enough to burn you. I went ahead and used the last of my moly and let it set over night. One thing I did notice I have the 10 minute DC on my other CW and what a difference! I am going to take the cover off my down CW and put it on my new. I am not sure about the CT yet so I may need to have it replaced or a Rock is going on it!

I am glad LHR made the CT, but again we are limited to their bits. I thought the sleeves came off, they don't they are pressed on. That was a feature I liked about the Rock I could buy factory bits at a better price. I use my bits for my hand routed signs and did with the CW.

I will try it again today I am at my local fair and hopefully the Z truck will not be as hot since I lubed the flex? Still the CT makes more noise then the Rock!

Ok talk about egg on my face I was wro.... I was wron.... I was wrong! You can buy sleeves and use your own bits! You can go 2 ways a package of 10 plastic sleeves for $5.99 or a metal sleeve for I think $18.00. I ordered the plastic and when I can afford the metal I will buy some!

Ike

[eelamb]

Doug, I remember LHR stating they use graphite on the new shafts too. I just purchased a spray can of graphite from Lowes. Boy does it stain and you have to watch the spray. I lubed my flex shaft of my dremel with it. Ended up holding a rag over the end and still got it everywhere.

Ike glad you got your rev C machine. Keep us posted as the how well it does.

[fwharris]

Doug, it did appear to have something on the flex and I let it go for a somewhat long carve(over 2 hours) Then the Z truck was so hot you could not touch it for very long, the flex was warm,but not enough to burn you. I went ahead and used the last of my moly and let it set over night. One thing I did notice I have the 10 minute DC on my other CW and what a difference! I am going to take the cover off my down CW and put it on my new. I am not sure about the CT yet so I may need to have it replaced or a Rock is going on it!

I am glad LHR made the CT, but again we are limited to their bits. I thought the sleeves came off, they don't they are pressed on. That was a feature I liked about the Rock I could buy factory bits at a better price. I use my bits for my hand routed signs and did with the CW.

I will try it again today I am at my local fair and hopefully the Z truck will not be as hot since I lubed the flex? Still the CT makes more noise then the Rock!

Ok talk about egg on my face I was wro.... I was wron.... I was wrong! You can buy sleeves and use your own bits! You can go 2 ways a package of 10 plastic sleeves for $5.99 or a metal sleeve for I think $18.00. I ordered the plastic and when I can afford the metal I will buy some!

Ike

Ike,
Sounds like you are like a kid in a candy store!!!

On the CT and other bits.... You only need the metal sleeve for the 1/4" shaft bits and the 1/2" bits work w/o no sleeve.. The plastic sleeves are for only as a bit stop and you can do with or with out...

[liquidguitars]

Ike, could you not use Ron's 1/2 adapters on LHR's CT?

[Ike]

Ike,
Sounds like you are like a kid in a candy store!!!

On the CT and other bits.... You only need the metal sleeve for the 1/4" shaft bits and the 1/2" bits work w/o no sleeve.. The plastic sleeves are for only as a bit stop and you can do with or with out...



Floyd, don't tell me that! I asked several times if the 1/4 plastic sleeves are what I need to hold the bit and I was told yes. I guess I need to call again and double check and change my order to the metal sleeve. Ok I called again and they are to take up the gap and not just bit stops. I know the metal sleeves will be better..

Plus Brandon you don't need any sleeve with a 1/2 bit and with my Rock I bought the 1/4" chuck, but I see what you are saying it may work? Guess I will start buying 1/2 bits? Plus I was told as the machine is used the noise goes away, so I will see? The Rock was quite from the get go!

Ike

[dbfletcher]

Ike, could you not use Ron's 1/2 adapters on LHR's CT?

Didn't LHR say this was a big "no-no"... I think it was going back to why they have to use "pressed on sleeve" becuase the carvetight will slip if you use non pressed on steel sleeves with solid carbide bits. (ya.. I know LHR said the rock will slip too but really havent heard of anyone conplaining about that where it wasnt a alignment issue with flats, sleeves, and locknut)

[liquidguitars]

I think if i had a CT i could use any bit using Ron's adapter 1/2" to 1/4", as far as slipping, Ron's adapters are not slipping now so i assume the CT would be the same.

regarding the heat, Ron's Rock was hot at first so i am assuming the CT will cool off after a few hrs of use.

Ike, does the table on the C feel stronger?

[Ike]

I called LHR and was told the same thing the CT will cool down as I use it. I didn't notice the Rock being hot and it was quiet from day one. I ordered the plastic sleeves they come in a pack of 10 and I doubled checked if they were for sleeves and I was told yes so I can use my own bits.

As forth to the table yes the parts are thicker and it looks stronger. I notice less tipping of long boards. I need to get my other CW working before my next fair so I can do centerline. So far I have lucked out and have not needed centerline. Tomorrow I will get up earlier and install my new Y motor and see if that works and then exchange CW.

Ike

[eelamb]

Ike, center line is with the software right. thus if you have centerline, the machine will read the card and do the carve on the new machine.

[jaroot]

I'm not sure about the dry flex but our refurbished unit that we bought through eBay was shipped directly from LHR and the flex shaft was dry to the feel and after a few minutes of use it was apparently dry for real. It got hot! We soaked it overnite in a molly lube and have had zero heat problems since.


I wonder if the whole "lube flexshaft" thing need to be revisited. I remember a post a few months ago (I think an MT post but not sure), about how LHR was now using a dry micro graphite lube that they felt was better then even the Moly lube we've been using for a while. There was a comment about that was why so many people thought they were gettting an unlubricted flexshaft, becuase it felt dry. Anyone else remember this? Is it still a best practice to lube flexshaft on a new machine if in fact LHR has switched the preferred lubrication again? In the meantime I will try to find the original post again.

Just some food for thought.

[TerryT]

Eddie,
Not sure but I think the issue with centerline is using the 60 and 90 degree bits in the CT. I don't think he has the bits with the new holders. Course I could be way off. LOL

[lynnfrwd]

The flexshafts are lubricated at the factory with a dry lubricant.

Machines are tested at the factory and tested, again, here in Pasadena before we ship them out. Overheating of the flex is one of the things monitored. You should always monitor the heat from the flexshaft - even new ones!! If it is immediately overheating upon purchase, check it out, lubricate it and try again. Heat persists, call us.

Things that can ruin a flexshaft: If the core (or cable) has been kinked or bent - it's ruined. If you do not get it properly or fully inserted, it will overheat and if left too long can be ruined. If the square end of it is rounded because of not fully inserted - it is ruined.

If you have taken the cable (core) out of the sheath (to see if it is kinked or otherwise), insert it back into the sheath and then turn the core to make sure you feel the resistance from the motor. Insert the other end fully into the spindle.

The CarveTight spindle (not flex) may run warmer & louder at first, but then cool & quieten down after a short break-in period.

[eelamb]

Terryt after reading your post, I remembered about the adaptors, so you are right. At least I believe you are:)

[Ike]

Eddie, the software is not the problem! The problem is I do not have sleeves for a 60 degree or 90 degree bit yet. Or do I have any 1/2 bits to use in the CT. Thank you though.

Ike

[eelamb]

When I read Terryt's post I realized that was the problem. When I ordered the rock, I decided to get the 1/2" with the adaptor for that very reason, some of the bits are 1/4 and other 1/2, figured the 1/2 would server all possibile combinations. I know you may loose some accuracy.

[Ike]

Sorry I didn't read Terry's until later! I always use 1/4" because I hand route signs too and all my routers are 1/4" chucks So with my Rock I ordered the 1/4" I wish now I did go with the 1/2" then I would have a sleeve!

I installed my new Y motor yesterday and tried a test and got a Z 313 error! Go figure! I didn't have time to mess with it, so I will address that issue later! I guess I will taking both machines to the next fair! I have been doing more hand routed then machine, I am a bit faster and sometimes almost as nice!

Ike

[Ike]

I have 2 working CWs!!! I fixed my other CW the new Y motor worked and the Z trouble was a screw backing out of the encoder cap. Plus I re-adjusted the motor ran a test sign with only one problem, a possible X overload hit enter to continue or something like that? So I hit enter and it happened again, I noticed I didn't have the flex shaft properly seated I corrected the issue and it did not occur again.

So I will have 2 CWs to take to my next fair I leave for tomorrow, I needed rest today. My wife and son had a 6 and half hour drive to the next fair and they made the drive last night. Our fair ended at 10:00 pm and they didn't open the gates until about 10:30. I rushed and got my truck and trailer and brought it in before all the other vendors came in! The good thing I did my son and I loaded up the wagon really fast and was out of there at 11:00 pm!

Then my son and wife took off around midnight and was going to stop at my parent's house, but ended up driving all the way! Their fair starts tomorrow so they are set up and ready except for sleep!

Ike

[Tom75]

i am glad you where Abel to fix the problem with the cw's and that your soda biasness is doing relay well . have a good night .