PDA

View Full Version : Cut Motor



unitedcases
07-18-2010, 10:25 AM
Hey guys, I was loading a new project this morning and got the dreaded cut motor check. I have read the posts and I am clueless. For this project I am using two bits, I loaded the first bit and got the intermediate spin for the bit plate check. Then I loaded bit #2 and no noise. I let the project run and the machine was going through the motions but no cut motor. Luckily I have "feathered" on so the bit never dug in. 40 bucks saved there. Then I powered down and restarted the whole thing. Same joy, None. So I looked as best I could but cant find any problems. If the machine thinks the cut motor is working but obviously it isnt then where should I start? I have about 750 so I know my brushes need to be replaced and I am getting ready to change the bearings on the the y motor/truck. So getting into the motor wont be hard since I will already have the machine apart. I know you guys will tell me some obvious steps that I have missed but what boggles me is that the machine thinks the cut motor is on. Is that a clue to anything obvious? Thanks for the help.

Digitalwoodshop
07-18-2010, 12:28 PM
Yes, that is something that the program does not look for cut motor magnet pulses to know if the cut motor is running or not.... I think it was originally designed to check that, as there was a magnet sensor as part of the circuit board for the Z Truck. Yes, that board that had the jack for the probe in the Z Truck also had a magnetic sensor and there was a magnet on the shaft of the QC behind the head. When that was removed along with that thin flat cable that ended. So the machine had the magnetic sensor at the cut motor and at the head.

I don't know this for sure because I have never seen the workings of the program but it only makes sense that the head sensor was to tell the machine that the bit was spinning and fault it out if the flex broke or the cut motor failed to start.


Sounds like you need some new Cut Motor Brushes....

AL

unitedcases
07-18-2010, 01:06 PM
I knew this was right up your alley Al and I kinda figured you would say that. Anybody got a part number handy or do I need to call LHR tomorrow? And how many do I need because I plan on doubling my order. Some of you guys have obviously done this before, is there a certain procedure or is it pretty much self explanatory?

Smoken D
07-18-2010, 02:16 PM
I called them last week for a list of stuff to get at once. At that time they were out of cut motor brushes, and all the other things I wanted to get. The part # for the motor brushes is #P00700020. They apparently are packaging them as a set now (2). Also were out of the heavy duty traction belt. Oh well, was my luck!

If they are still out might try Sears. I don't have the web address for the skizmatic brake down for their part#. Wish I did.

Oh yea, also had a question for software. They took my phone number and I am still waiting for that call. Believe that was Tuesday of last week.:roll:

unitedcases
07-18-2010, 06:03 PM
Here is the website, all it does is break down the basic parts, i.e. the entire cut motor for $145. I will try my luck tomorrow and call them.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=133.217540

dbfletcher
07-18-2010, 06:14 PM
You might also wanna make sure the right side cover switch is functional and all the wires are securely connected. A few months back mine came loose and I had the same symptoms.

unitedcases
07-18-2010, 06:19 PM
You know the more I think about when I would listen to the machine spin up it kinda didnt really sound "healthy". No matter what the brushes could stand to be replaced and I am already going to break it down to change those bushings in the y motor so I am going that route for now. I will let you know how it pans out.

gwhiz
07-18-2010, 07:33 PM
I'll be watching for updates as I'm in the same situation. The cut motor didn't sound right last week and on Friday night (naturally) it stopped mid carve. I followed Al's checklist and checked the wires, board, far side switch etc. I haven't checked the brushes as I've only got 117 hours on the cut motor. I'll be on the phone with CW tomorrow to see where we go from here....I'll let you know the input they give me.

unitedcases
07-18-2010, 09:20 PM
Kinda scary to think that your cut motor would just stop in the middle of a carve. 40 bucks down the drain.

Digitalwoodshop
07-18-2010, 09:47 PM
That is why I suggest at 250 Cut Motor Hours you replace the Cut Motor Brushes.... And I also say with every 2 brushes change the Y gear box bearings.... Preventive ($40.00) Maintenance.....

AL

unitedcases
07-18-2010, 10:04 PM
I know. It would have served me right if that bit had broke.

Digitalwoodshop
07-19-2010, 12:33 PM
Also know that a broken pin on the C1 Capacitor on the X Termination Board under the machine can cause the Cut Motor to not start too.

AL

unitedcases
07-19-2010, 09:55 PM
You gotta knock that off Al, you really lose me with all your Navy electronic jargon. One of these days I am gonna start spitting Marine Aviation stuff back at ya.

gwhiz
07-20-2010, 06:31 PM
I'll be watching for updates as I'm in the same situation. The cut motor didn't sound right last week and on Friday night (naturally) it stopped mid carve. I followed Al's checklist and checked the wires, board, far side switch etc. I haven't checked the brushes as I've only got 117 hours on the cut motor. I'll be on the phone with CW tomorrow to see where we go from here....I'll let you know the input they give me.

CW said to check the flexshaft core and spring, and to check the cut motor for damage. The flexshaft is fine, I lube it frequently and since the cut motor isn't even turning (unless I manually turn the bit) I was sure it wasn't the shaft. So I then pulled the top brush out of the motor to find the spring in pieces, and the wire mostly missing! (Thanks for posting pics of the brushes, Al, so I knew what it was supposed to look like!)

Looking down at the rotor, it looks like there is some scoring, so I'm assuming that the motor ate the wire....

Digitalwoodshop
07-20-2010, 07:17 PM
You gotta knock that off Al, you really lose me with all your Navy electronic jargon. One of these days I am gonna start spitting Marine Aviation stuff back at ya.

That is SO funny...... Saturday I went to my 35th High School Reunion..... My first.... Had a blast....

Big Surprise when we were outside talking the big Class Picture and I am standing on this stone wall in the back and I look right and read the name tag of the guy next to me. I see George Schmitt..... And I am thinking.... where have I seen that name... Then I get it.... He is the owner of the Chant Real Estate office that I make Wood Signs for... And he sent me a check last week.... WOW... The guy I went to school with..... Never knew.... Been doing signs for him for over 2 years..... Never put it together...

So the big question of the evening was here to sit.. I sit next to guy from my small town and then a girl I was nuts over sits down with her new Husband of 5 years. A 24 year Navy man..... The conversation went military.... Then the guy right behind me was a Retired Air Force guy who flew U2 Spy Planes..... He even took Joan Lunden up for a flight about 10 years ago for the program Behind Closed Doors she was doing after leaving the Morning Shows....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lockheed_U-2 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lockheed_U-2)


After the film we gave him a standing ovation.... They had a in flight emergency and had to put out a wildmill like device to power the aircraft... They almost crashed.....

It was a GREAT Reunion......

OK... Back to the CW.... Great finding the Cut Motor Brush as being the problem.... GOOD JOB !!!!!

AL

unitedcases
07-24-2010, 10:34 AM
Alright Gang,

I got my cut motor brushes in and changed them out this morning. I can really tell a difference in the sound and of course, the motor actually works. Attached is a pic of my spare set that I bought and the old ones.

Digitalwoodshop
07-24-2010, 06:51 PM
Good Gob.... The Tether Copper Wire will work like a dog chain and stop the brush from reaching the commutator when they are worn. That is why the motor stops...

AL

Ropdoc
09-03-2011, 08:08 AM
Hello guys,

It there a set of instruction on how to remove and replace the brushed. I bought a new set. But I am a bull in a china shop. I seem to break more things than I fix. So if I had a step by step approach that might be better for me.

Thanks.

Digitalwoodshop
09-03-2011, 09:23 AM
I recommend removing the motor from the machine and opening it up... Plus it is hard to get the bottom cap back on while in the machne...

Blow the dust out of the machine....

Good Luck,

AL

lynnfrwd
09-03-2011, 09:26 AM
I recommend removing the motor from the machine and opening it up... Plus it is hard to get the bottom cap back on while in the machne...

Blow the dust out of the machine....

Good Luck,

AL

You DO or DON'T recommend?

mtylerfl
09-03-2011, 09:30 AM
I replaced the brushes without removing the Cut Motor...but, AL is right...easier access if the motor is removed! You have to be a bit of a contortionist to get that bottom cap screw back on with the "springy" brush in the right position. Acutally, it's more like you have to be a blind contortionist, since I did it by "feel" alone.

Digitalwoodshop
09-03-2011, 03:54 PM
You DO or DON'T recommend?

I have done it both ways.... Leaving it on the machine makes it hard to get the bottom cap back on like said by others. Ever since I saw the amount of dust inside the Motor, drawn in with the cooling fan through the slits by the brushes. I make it a point to remove the motor and open and blow it out every brush change. See the different color dust in the motor and look at the dates....

SO I recommend removing the Motor from the Machine to take advantage of the chance for Preventive Maintenance... Blowing it out...

When you put it back together make sure you spin the motor to be sure everything falls into the sweet spot. Also watch where the wires are, I have a picture where I clipped the insulation off slightly... and that can make a FIRE.... And we don't want FIRE.....

Someone called me about servicing his machine.... I don't do it due to the Liability... IF a repaired machine catches on Fire AFTER my Repair or Service then the Insurance Company comes after ME....

Good Luck,

AL

dcalvin4
09-03-2011, 06:56 PM
i know you all talked [and i read] about the 2 sets of fans in the motor . 1 fan to cool the motor and the other to pull air and dust from the cutting area via ports...i am wondering if 1 of these fans,, the one that pulls air and dust from the board area were removed,,,,,would the motor be quieter,,,,
denny

Digitalwoodshop
09-03-2011, 08:16 PM
Yes, in my opinion the noise would be less but the motor would suffer from heat damage.

I like the Noise Fix that ChrisAlb showed me... A un plugged Shop Vac... Run the Motor Exhaust into the Vac hose..... Supper Muffler.... and it is still an excellent filter.

I believe that at some point someone will end up replacing the Cut Motor with a Upright Drill Press.... Running a Relay in place of the Motor and making a Flex Shaft Magnet Sensor... It would be very quiet. The Unknown is how the Machine Computer will deal with the non response in speed control.... It could bring about a whole new set of fault codes we have never seen....

AL

Ropdoc
09-04-2011, 03:07 PM
um ... I get what you are saying ... but ... what about how to remove the stuff before the motor ... and how to remove the motor. Am I just not getting your advice. If that is the case I humbly apologize.

Digitalwoodshop
09-04-2011, 06:53 PM
There has got to be a PDF on changing the brushes...... but I tend to not pay much attention to them....

Someone here will post a link...

fwharris
09-04-2011, 10:33 PM
There has got to be a PDF on changing the brushes...... but I tend to not pay much attention to them....

Someone here will post a link...

PDF on checking and replacing AC motor.... http://www.carvewright.com/2010CWweb/service/Service_instructions/CarveWright_service_AC_motor.pdf

It does not cover the removal and replacement of the brushes but I think Al has covered that one...

Ropdoc
09-05-2011, 09:20 AM
Thank you so much.

Ropdoc
09-08-2011, 05:55 PM
ok ... remember when I mentioned that I was a bull in a china shop ? Well what do you do when you strip the top of the covers of the brushes? How do you get them off ?

mtylerfl
09-08-2011, 06:46 PM
ok ... remember when I mentioned that I was a bull in a china shop ? Well what do you do when you strip the top of the covers of the brushes? How do you get them off ?

Uh-oh. I used the edge of a quarter (coin) to unscrew them...perhaps that will help in the future.

I guess since the deed is done already (stripped) you'll need to remove the motor after all. Perhaps you could drive a couple brads through a scrap piece of thin plywood, then "tappy-tap" the brad/ply tool into the plastic covers to get the brad points to "grip" and unscrew them that way. Might want to order another pair of covers before installing the motor back into the machine.

Digitalwoodshop
09-08-2011, 07:43 PM
Yes.... BEEN THERE and Done that.... 8/8/2007..... I cracked my bottom one using a too THIN of a screwdriver... It wedged it and snapped it.... Then removed the motor... and got it out.....

AL

Ropdoc
09-09-2011, 08:43 AM
Are the covers something I can go down to Home Depot and buy ??

Or is it an online only item?

Thank you for your patience
Dave

mtylerfl
09-09-2011, 09:47 AM
Are the covers something I can go down to Home Depot and buy ??

Or is it an online only item?

Thank you for your patience
Dave

Hi Dave,

I have no idea if this is a "standard item" or not. You could take a cover into the home improvement store and inquire. I am going to guess that you'll need to call CarveWright directly...but, please let us know if you find something suitable "off-the-shelf" at a home improvement store!

fwharris
09-09-2011, 10:30 AM
Are the covers something I can go down to Home Depot and buy ??

Or is it an online only item?

Thank you for your patience
Dave

I would give CarveWright a call. They might not have the covers as a new item BUT they might have some from some old motors with bad cases that they MIGHT be willing to send to you.

Digitalwoodshop
09-09-2011, 07:33 PM
I am guessing the cap is metric too... I would call LHR, I bet you can buy them..... I think I did.... 2007 is a long time ago...

I have bought some electrically bad motors from users here for the core charge and shipping just for the parts.... I am in this for the long haul... I have one that has a burnt Stator and a good case and good Armature. You can see by this picture after the 4th brush change the copper is getting worn away... Plus the bearings.... I would bet the bearings could go a dozen or more brush changes.... But I have what I Believe to be good Stator just to drop in next year or so when needed.... I like to plan ahead... It's a Business for me and a Tax Deduction as Repair Parts. My latest LHR order consisted of X Gears, Repair Gear Box Gears for the worn shaft, FFC Cables.....

See the dates... 8/2007 and 2011... 4th brush change on my main machine of 4.

Good Luck,

AL

Ropdoc
09-10-2011, 03:09 PM
woo who !! I fixed it and it runs. I used my dremel to make new slots on the caps and it worked perfectly. I next porject will be the cement molds.

mtylerfl
09-11-2011, 02:09 PM
woo who !! I fixed it and it runs. I used my dremel to make new slots on the caps and it worked perfectly. I next porject will be the cement molds.

Excellent solution...wish I would have thought of that! Can't wait to see pics of your cement castings!

Ropdoc
09-12-2011, 08:03 AM
Well no pictures. About 10% into the cut I got a Z axis error and it would not move on. So I lost the material. Money is so tight I can't keep putting money out like this. But I really need the ability to get out and tinker in my garage like this. I found the vcum vent project. So I will get aggresive with the chip evacualtion and see is that helps.

Digitalwoodshop
09-12-2011, 03:22 PM
Was the board under the rollers the whole time or Z Error at a transition going under a roller or leaving a roller?

Was is a short board that lost contact with the brass roller?

Could be a FFC Cable going bad?

AL

Ropdoc
09-12-2011, 05:38 PM
I cut the foam 8 inches longer than the project. So the rollers should have not been an issue. I set it for "under the roller" option. I was a little ways into cutting the project so no way it could have lost contact with the sensors. I am worried that the shaving buildup was just to much and interferred with the rollers on the head. So I am going to focus on the vacum system tonight and then try again.

I am just getting frustrated with not being able to buy the new software and stuff because I have to replace lost wood material thru scrap or I have to keep buying parts to fix the machine. I want to be loyal to Carvewright ... but ... how can I keep putting up with repair issues?

Again, thank you for your patience.
Dave

fwharris
09-12-2011, 06:06 PM
Dave,

Your next step SHOULD BE to get a dust collection system in order for the machine. I would almost garantee that is the majority of your issues with the machine if you have been using it since Feb. 2007 with out one....

b.sumner47
09-12-2011, 07:14 PM
Dave, You should find a big difference with the dust- chip removal system. I made mine from Carvewright's patterns .I woulg probably go with the one that Fwharris has for sale all made up at Riggneckblues.com. Good Luck. Capt Barry

Ropdoc
09-13-2011, 07:57 AM
Thank you for the advice. I am working on it now. I just need to run down to the Hardware store and get some tubing. Tomorrow is pay day so I can buy then.

I downloaded this carve from this forum and will use it for the vacum head.
http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?17634-Fletcher-s-DC-carve-it-yourself (http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?17634-Fletcher-s-DC-carve-it-yourself)

Thank you Fletcher for the carve file.

Ropdoc
09-13-2011, 07:10 PM
Ok folks, I am just at my wits ends. I am so frustrated that you would not believe. If I could I would name my dog after the carvewright and kick it. I got my vacum system all hooked up and working awesome. I go to start my cement mold project (AGAIN) it goes thru all the ckecks and is now ready to start carving. THE "CUT MOTOR" MESSAGE POPS UP. And the motor does not start. I just replaced the brushed over the weekend. What else can be wrong? I need a life do over. What have I done so wrong that I just keep getting crap ????

mtylerfl
09-14-2011, 07:59 AM
Ok folks, I am just at my wits ends. I am so frustrated that you would not believe. If I could I would name my dog after the carvewright and kick it. I got my vacum system all hooked up and working awesome. I go to start my cement mold project (AGAIN) it goes thru all the ckecks and is now ready to start carving. THE "CUT MOTOR" MESSAGE POPS UP. And the motor does not start. I just replaced the brushed over the weekend. What else can be wrong? I need a life do over. What have I done so wrong that I just keep getting crap ????

Hello,

I am so sorry to hear you are still having problems. I know you are probably more than just a little frustrated. If it were me, I would call CarveWright Tech support for assistance. They are very well-versed, polite, "calm and collected" and will be able to help you with some troubleshooting over the phone while you are at your machine.

Normally, these machines are very simple to maintain, but every now and then a chain of events makes it 'seem' complicated. I believe a call to Tech Support will be in order. Try to explain everything as completely and thoroughly as you can, so the tech will have all the information. I know from my own experience during conversations with some folks having problems, they can leave out important details that only surface when I quiz them in more depth. This can completely change what I initially thought was their problem to begin with, once I have ALL the info.

The very "worst" that can happen is that a complete diagnosis can't be made over the phone and you may want to actually send the machine in for a thorough going-over by the repair technicians. Hopefully, this won't be necessary, but you may want to keep that in mind anyway.

I don't know if I can be of any help, but you are sure welcome to call me personally, if you wish (phone number posted at my website). Everyone wants you to be able to enjoy your machine and get all this behind you!

Ropdoc
09-14-2011, 08:16 AM
Thank you for understanding. It seems everything in my life piles on at once and this was my last straw. And to be honest I was so pissed last night that it would have not be a good idea for me to call them. My frame of mind was in fight mode not be polite mode. And for that I deeply apologize. I did however send an email to them thru this website. And as you pointed out things are left out while explaining problems. Because the other issue is that during the board depth check to where the head slides to the far side, there is a stop that rotates out for the cutter tip to touch on to. That does not rotate out. So the head slides way down past the board. And the program keeps repeating this step over and over again.

Again I apologize for my constant bumping of this thread. I am flat broke and needed something to work and it was not to be it.

fwharris
09-14-2011, 10:36 AM
It does look like you have several issues going on now since you've changed your motor brushes. I would suggest to go back and recheck that you have gotten all of the cut motor wires plugged in correctly. When you put the cover back on make sure you have the wire clips (both corners) installed correctly. Pay special attention to the one for the cut motor. It needs to be placed so that the wires are held so that the Z motor does not make any contact with them. Also if the wires have a black plastic shield on it remove it.

Ropdoc
09-14-2011, 11:00 AM
Not to be picky or anything, but do you happen to have pictures? For me pictures are worth a million words.

Digitalwoodshop
09-14-2011, 11:02 AM
The X Termination Board has a Transistor or Electronic Switch on it, the C1 Capacitor will vibrate and snap off causing cut motor start problems.

The Cut Motor Safety Switch will cause this... It is the right side cover switch. Loose Switch Screws not letting the switch close, the cover plastic tang that pushes the switch is broken, loose cover hinge screws, and like mentioned above the Crimp Connector plugs that supply power to the motor.

Good Luck,

AL

lynnfrwd
09-14-2011, 11:34 AM
Regarding your slap plate not coming out to check tip of the bit on far side of the machine, make sure there is no sawdust caked in there and give it a small squirt of WD40.

Wow! You've been a customer for a LOOOONG time, but there are not many notes from you or orders. Have you NOT been using the machine or just not had many issues with it? Make sure and identify whether or not you have had the A907 upgrade as your CompuCarve was from one of the first batches of machines made. I don't see where you have ever ordered one. You won't need it for just the cut motor, if that has to be replaced, but either way you should be aware.

I would go with the $25 issue fee to work with a hardware tech and try to determine what is going on with your cut motor before considering shipping it into us.

Ropdoc
09-14-2011, 01:44 PM
AAAAA ..... did you see the part about me "Bull in a china shop" ? I apreciate your help. But this sounds like way to much for me. I just want to go out into my garage, away from the wife. Make lots of noise so I can't hear things. Matybe get the sandpaper out and stain. But constant repair of this machine is driving me nuts. I know that there are those of you who love that kind of thing. But me. I just want to make chips, sawdust and fumes. And then hear a little WOW that is cool, and you made that. But instead I hear " you need more money for WHAT ??

I can't throw the machine away, let it sit on a shelf or ignor it. I have now put just way to much into it. And it keeps getting worst. Are the newer models any better? Can I trade this one in for a new model. I bought this about 4 or 5 years ago.


The X Termination Board has a Transistor or Electronic Switch on it, the C1 Capacitor will vibrate and snap off causing cut motor start problems.

The Cut Motor Safety Switch will cause this... It is the right side cover switch. Loose Switch Screws not letting the switch close, the cover plastic tang that pushes the switch is broken, loose cover hinge screws, and like mentioned above the Crimp Connector plugs that supply power to the motor.

Good Luck,

AL

fwharris
09-14-2011, 02:05 PM
Not to be picky or anything, but do you happen to have pictures? For me pictures are worth a million words.

Here is a link to what I posted about the wire gaurd once upon a time.... http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?16751-Bit-Tip-locator-lube&p=141665#post141665

Ropdoc
09-14-2011, 02:08 PM
I was just about to call you. I had a feeling that a good cleaning would be in order. But with the cut motor issue I was second guessing that.

I am not sure if you are being sarcastic or sinsear. To me it has been a very long time. But it seems I get a couple carves out of the machine and then it goes down. I have to save money up to buy the parts and then I build up the nerve to dive in to fix it. I am not a patient mechanic. Seems like things are being thrown around in the garage more that things are being fixed. And I usually get left alone because people don't want to be around that. Don't blame them. I just want something to work. If I paid $5 that would be one thing. But I believe I paid around $1800 for it. And consider maintenace all this time. Please understand my frustration.

If I was to have recideved some kind of a recall I would of responded. I don't know what an "A907" is. I did however box up the machine and send it in to you guys for repairs a few years back. Does my file you have, reference the emails and phone calls from me? I have tried to be a good little loyal customer. But how far do I need to go? I am so ashamed to state this. But I am flat broke. I am really trying to make it here. But if you consider my material loss as well. A peice of cherry going thru to carve and about half way thru the machine dies on me and I loss the wood. Come on, that has got to frustrate everyone? Last night I was so pissed off that I could not be around anyone. I just want to smash stuff, but didn't. I don't know what else to say. I am right on the edge of giving up on this. I look at all the cool stuff your customers do and how awesomely creative they are. I just want so badly to at least be a small part of that. But just can't get past the repairs.


Regarding your slap plate not coming out to check tip of the bit on far side of the machine, make sure there is no sawdust caked in there and give it a small squirt of WD40.

Wow! You've been a customer for a LOOOONG time, but there are not many notes from you or orders. Have you NOT been using the machine or just not had many issues with it? Make sure and identify whether or not you have had the A907 upgrade as your CompuCarve was from one of the first batches of machines made. I don't see where you have ever ordered one. You won't need it for just the cut motor, if that has to be replaced, but either way you should be aware.

I would go with the $25 issue fee to work with a hardware tech and try to determine what is going on with your cut motor before considering shipping it into us.

Digitalwoodshop
09-14-2011, 08:35 PM
I would stay away from high priced wood until you have the confidence in the machine.

The A907 change is a parts package you can install. It's 2 circuit boards and a new 14 pin cable.

Your machine most likely has the old 18 pin thinner wire FFC Cable... The FFC Cable is the big flat gray cable that carries the power and data to the Y Truck (Left to Right) that holds the Z Truck (Up and Down). It has heavier wires and makes for a more reliable machine. It's like AA batteries to the Z Motor and now you have D Battery current and power. AND being thicker wires last longer as it flexes over and over. The Cable is really a Consumable and will someday snap..... The Trick is to install it without kinking it.

My phone number is on my webpage shown below. If you need advice call me or even send a PM or email and I will call YOU. I have a Magic Jack and calls are free... almost... IF you leave a message repeat your number twice slow.... I have a message from 3 weeks ago from a member asking for help and the phone message number was missing a digit and the Caller ID Blocked. ???

YES, the new "C" model is more reliable. Your model most likely still has a QC or Quick Change Chuck. When the Chuck gets worn it puts BB Marks in the bit holders. Once worn you must replace the QC and ALL Bit Holders. Replace Just the Bit Holders and the Worn QC will destroy the new bit holders in just one project. Replace the QC and no bit holders or just install 1 bad bit holder, it will wear out the QC.... It is a Vicious Cycle.... Any worn parts you need to replace the QC and all the Bit Holders at the same time. Many including myself found this out the hard way.... I got my first machine in 2007 and took right off using it in my Business... I had Hundreds of Hours in Months... I have 2 machines with close to 1000 hours of my 4.... I took the HOBBY Machine to new Heights.... And learned a few things....

SO many here have upgraded to the R. Justice ROCK Chuck or the LHR CarveTite Chuck that replaces the QC. IF you are sticking with the QC for now for $$ Reasons, then many here might offer you FREE QC and Bit Holders as they are collecting dust having been replaced by the ROCK or CT. Do research on the Rock and CT and decide what is best for you.

WHERE are YOU.... There might be another user near you with Repair Skills.... OR take up LHR on the Tech Assist Fee of $25.00.... Money is tight even for LHR.. But the Machine would be very capable of making stuff to sell to pay for itself... Signs, Clocks, and MORE....

My machines in my Business is Directly Responsible for my Business Income of over $14K this year.... And the year is not done... I have $4K in orders to do.... It's mostly Fire Dept Safety Stuff I make WITH THE CW and Wooden Signs.... Last year.... $10K, then $8K then $8K..... So you can see where adding the CW has really made my business GROW....

Now back to the Average User.... Like YOU.... The CW is just an extension of your Wood Shop. Something to make "Sawdust" AND "WOW you made THAT".....

So the BAD thing is that your machine is BROKEN... The Good News.... YOUR HERE.... and WE can HELP.... If you want the HELP....

Good Luck,

We have all been where you are... Broken Machine or Stuck and feel Anger and Confused.....

AL

Ropdoc
09-15-2011, 08:05 AM
Ok this where I am at this moment. I cleaned the machine (but forgot to blow it out real good. Reconnected plugs and checked screws. I have a vacum system hooked up. I still have the problem with the head moving all the way to the far side during setup. But I did get it to run. I have my cement mold project in it and let it run for a couple hours last night. Made it to 25% complete. As soon as this project either fails or completes I will look into the board version I have. I do have the old chuck.

How much is the A907 revision and chuch upgrade? But I am still in the same spot. This is money I just do not have.

It was my dream when I bought this machine to make money off of it. I grew up on a farm until I was 17. I want so despritely to get back. I live if Ca. and HATE it. I am nothing but an ATM to the politicians and government. But my dream of working from my home and getting out of this hole is lost.